Excitement - This is an oscillatory movement of water. It is perceived by the observer as the movement of the waves on the surface of the water. In fact, the water surface performs oscillations up and down from the average level of equilibrium position. The waveform with excitement is constantly changing due to the movement of particles on closed, almost circular orbits.
Each wave is a smooth building of elevation and recesses. The main parts of the wave are: crest - SAMIA high part; Sole - the lowest part; slope - The profile between the comb and the wave sole. Line along the crest of waves is called Front of the wave (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1. Basic parts of the wave
The main characteristics of the waves are Height - The difference in the row levels and the soles of the wave; Length - the shortest distance between the adjacent crests or soles of the waves; steepness - The angle between the slope of the wave and the horizontal plane (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1. The main characteristics of the wave
Waves possess very large kinetic energy. The higher the wave, the more it is concluded kinetic energy (in proportion to the square increase in height).
Under the influence of Coriolis's strength, the water shaft was far from the continent, and the sushi creates depression.
By origin Waves are divided as follows:
- friction waves;
- baric waves;
- seismic waves or tsunami;
- sewers;
- tidal waves.
Friction waves
Friction waves, in turn, can be Winds(Fig. 2) or deep. Wind waves The wind waves on the border of the air and water occurs. The height of the wind waves does not exceed 4 m, but with strong and protracted storms it increases to 10-15 m and above. The highest waves - up to 25 m - are observed in the strip western winds Southern Hemisphere.
Fig. 2. Wind waves and surf waves
Pyramidal, high and steep wind waves got a name Toleric. These waves are inherent in the central regions of cyclones. When the wind subsides, the excitement becomes character zybi., i.e., excitement on inertia.
Primary shape of wind waves - ripple It occurs at a wind speed of less than 1 m / s, and at speed, more than 1 m / s, minor, and then larger waves are formed.
Wave near the shores, mainly in shallow water, based on progressive movements, was named Surf.(See Fig. 2).
Deep waves arise on the border of two layers of water with different properties. They often arise in the straits, with two floors of the flow, near the mouth of the rivers, at the edge of the melting ice. These waves mix marine water and are very dangerous for sailors.
Baric wave
Baric waves arise due to fast shift atmospheric pressure In places of origin of cyclones, especially tropical. Usually these waves are single and do not bring much harm. The exceptions are cases when they coincide with a high tide. In such disasters most often exposed to the Antilles, Peninsula Florida, the coast of China, India, Japan.
Tsunami
Seismic waves There are under the influence of underwater jolts and coastal earthquakes. These are very long and low in open Ocean Waves, but the power of their spread is large enough. They are moving at a very high speed. In coordinary their length is reduced, and the height increases sharply (on average from 10 to 50 m). Their appearance entails human sacrifices. First, Morse retreats a few kilometers from the shore, gaining power to push, and then waves with huge speed Slide on the shore with an interval of 15-20 minutes (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3. Transformation Tsunami
The Japanese called seismic waves tsunamiAnd this term is used all over the world.
The seismic belt of the Pacific Ocean is the main area of \u200b\u200bthe Tsunami.
Seishi.
Seishi. - It is standing waves that arise in the bays and inland seas. They occur on inertia after the cessation of external forces - wind, seismic jokes, sharp changes, intensive precipitation loss, etc. In this place, water rises, and in the other - it is lowered.
Tidal wave
Tidal waves - These are the movements committed under the influence of the fading forces of the Moon and the Sun. Reverse reaction sea water on the tide - low tide. The band drained during the low tide is called drying.
There is a close connection of the height of tides and sings with the phases of the moon. In new moon and full moon, the highest tides are observed and the lowest lowers. They're called Syzigine. At this time, the lunar and solar tides, coming at the same time, are superimposed on each other. In the intervals between them, in the first and last Thursday phases of the Moon, the lowest, Quadrature riding.
As already mentioned in the second section, in the open ocean, the height of the tide is small - 1.0-2.0 m, and in the dismembered shores it increases sharply. Maximum tide reaches on the Atlantic Coast North America, in Fandy Bay (up to 18 m). In Russia, the maximum magnitude of the tide - 12.9 m - was noted in the Gulf of Shelikhov (Sea Okhotsk). In the inner seas of tides little noticeable, for example, in the Baltic Morse, in St. Petersburg, the tide is 4.8 cm, and in some rivers, the tide is traced for hundreds and even thousands of kilometers from the mouth, for example, in the Amazon - up to 1400 cm.
Cool tidal wave climbing up the river, called Bor. At the Amazon Bor reaches a height of 5 m and is felt at a distance of 1,400 km from the mouth of the river.
Even with a calm surface in the thickness of ocean waters, excitement occurs. These are the so-called Internal waves -slow, but very significant in spidabout, which sometimes achieves hundreds of meters. They arise as a result of external influence on the heterogeneous vertical mass of water. In addition, since the temperature, salinity and density of ocean water change with a depth of not gradually, but jumps from one layer to another, on the border between these layers, and specific internal waves arise.
Sea currents
Sea currents - It is horizontal progressive movements Water masses in the oceans and seas, characterized by a certain direction and speed. They reach several thousand kilometers in length, tens-hundred kilometers wide, hundreds of meters deep. According to the physicochemical properties of the water of sea currents are different from others.
By The duration of existence (sustainability) Sea currents are divided as follows:
- permanentwho pass in the same areas of the ocean, have one general direction, more or less constant speed and sustainable physiochemical properties portable aquatic masses (Northern and South Passatat, Golf Stream, etc.);
- periodicwhose direction, speed, temperature is subordinated to periodic laws. They occur at equal intervals of time in a certain sequence (summer and winter monsoon flows in the northern part Indian Ocean, tidal and tidal flows);
- temporarycaused most often by the winds.
By Temperature sign Sea currents are:
- warmwhich have a temperature higher than the ambient water (for example. Murmanskaya flow with a temperature of 2-3 ° C among water about ° C); they have the direction from the equator to the poles;
- coldwhose temperature is lower ambient water (for example, the canary flow with a temperature of 15-16 ° C among water with a temperature of about 20 ° C); These flows are directed from the poles to the equator;
- neutralthat have a temperature close to environment (for example, equatorial flows).
At the depth of the location in the thickness of water distinguish the flows:
- surface (up to 200 m depths);
- subsurfacehaving a direction opposite to superficial;
- depth, the movement of which is performed very slowly - the order of several centimeters or the first tens of centimeters per second;
- dindonregulating waters between polar - subolar and equatorial-tropical latitudes.
By origin Allocate the following flows:
- frictional, which can be drift or wind. Drift arise under the influence permanent windsand winds are created by seasonal winds;
- gradient gravitational, among which allocate Inresulting from an inclination of the surface caused by excess water due to their inflow from the ocean and abundant precipitation, and compensationthat occur due to the outflow of water, poor precipitation;
- inertwhich are observed after the cessation of the acting factors exciting them (for example, tidal flows).
Ocean flow system due to total circulation Atmosphere.
If you present the hypothetical ocean, continuously extending from the North Pole to the South, and impose a generalized atmospheric wind scheme on it, then with the deflecting force of Coriolis, we will receive six closed rings -
circle of marine currents: Northern and South Equatorial, Northern and South subtropical, subarctic and subnutrctic (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4. Circle of marine currents
Retreats from the ideal scheme are caused by the presence of continents and the characteristics of their distribution by ground surface Earth. However, as on the ideal scheme, in reality on the surface of the ocean is observed Zonal shift large - length of several thousand kilometers - not completely closed Circulating systems: This is an equatorial anticyclonic; tropical cyclonic, north and southern; subtropical anticyclonic, north and southern; Antarctic circumpolar; high-tech cyclonic; Arctic anticyclonic system.
In the northern hemisphere, they move clockwise, in South - against. From west to east directed Equatorial interpassate countermeasures.
In moderate subojury latitudes Northern Hemisphere exist Small rings of flows around baric lows. Water movement in them is directed counterclockwise, and in the southern hemisphere - from the west to the east around Antarctica.
The flows into zonal circulating systems It is quite well traced to a depth of 200 m. With the depth, they change the direction, weaken and turn into weak vortices. In return, meridional flows are intensified at the depth.
The most powerful and deep out of surface currents play crucial role In the global circulation of the World Ocean. The most stable surface flows are the Northern and South Passatowns of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans and the Southern Passatom Current of the Indian Ocean. They have directions from East to West. For tropical latitudes are characterized by warm rates, such as Golf Stream, Kurosio, Brazilian, etc.
Under the action of permanent western winds in moderate latitudes There are warm north-Atlantic and north
Pacific flows in the northern hemisphere and cold (neutral) flow of Western winds - in South. The latter forms a ring in three oceans around Antarctica. Large cyphans in the northern hemisphere Cold compensation flows are closed: along the Western shores in tropical latitudes - California, Canary, and in South - Peruvian, Bengali, West Australian.
The most famous currents are also the warm Norwegian flow in the Arctic, the cold Labradorsky in the Atlantic, the warm Alaskan and Cold Smoke-Kamchatka - in the Pacific.
The monsoon circulation in the northern part of the Indian Ocean generates seasonal wind outages: winter - from east to west and summer - from west to east.
In the Arctic Ocean, the direction of movement of water and ice comes from east to west (transatlantic flow). The reasons for it are a rich river flow of the Siberia rivers, rotational cyclonic movement (counterclockwise) over the Barents and Kara seas.
In addition to circulating macrosystems there are vortices of the open ocean. Their size is 100-150 km, and the speed of moving the aquatic masses around the center is 10-20 cm / s. These mesosystems are called synoptic vortices. It is believed that it is in them that is not less than 90% of the kinetic energy of the ocean. Vortices are observed not only in the open ocean, but also in the sea currents of the type Gulf Stream. Here they rotate with another greater speedthan in the open ocean, their annular system is better expressed, so they are called Rings.
For the climate and nature of the Earth, especially coastal areas, the value of marine currents is great. Warm and cold flows maintain the difference in the temperatures of Western and eastern coasts of the mainland, disturbing its zonal distribution. So, the non-freezing Murmansk port is behind the polar circle, and on eastern coast North America freezes the bay of St. Lawrence (48 ° S.Sh.). Warm flows contribute to the fallout of precipitation, cold, on the contrary, reduce the possibility of their loss. Therefore, the territory washed warm currents, have humid climateand cold - dry. With the help of marine currents, plants and animal migration are carried out, nutrient transfer and gas exchange. The flows take into account during the navigation.
Waves on the water are called primarily by the wind. On the pond, a mirroring smooth in quiet weather, a ripple appears during the wind, on the lake - waves. In the ocean there are places where the height of the wind waves reaches 30-40 m. This is explained by the fact that in a small pond close the bottom of water fluctuations. And only on the ocean umbrellas, the wind may not joking the surface of the water.
However, even huge waves Not always scary. After all, the water in the wave does not run in the direction of the wind, but only moving up and down. More precisely, moving along a small circle inside the wave. Only with the strong wind the tops of the waves, pickled to the wind, are ahead of the rest of the wave, causing collaps - then white lamb appears on the waves. 
It seems to us that the wave runs through the sea. In fact, water inside the wave is moving along a small circle. At the shore of the wave of its lower part of its part, and the neat circle is destroyed.
Wave can cause serious harm high shipEspecially sailing, whose height of the mast is much higher than the height of the sides. Such a ship is similar to a person who pushes under the knee. Other business raft. He performs quite a bit above the water, and knock over it - it's like turning over the mattress lying on the floor.
When the sea wave approaches the shore, where the depth gradually decreases, its lower part is hampered about the bottom. At the same time, the wave rises up and the collapse appear even on the most modest waves. The upper part of it is collapsed ashore and immediately goes back along the bottom, continuing his circular movement. Therefore, it is so difficult to go ashore even with a slight excitement. 
Waves near the shore can gain destructive power.
With the steep rocky shores, the wave is not inhibited gradually about the bottom, and immediately collapses all his power ashore. Therefore, probably the waves of the shore are called - surf.
If the surface of the lake can be smooth, the ocean is covered with waves almost constantly. The fact is that in huge Ocean There is always a place where wind waves are formed. And rarely the land, capable of stopping these waves. The highest wind waves on the planet are in the 40-50 latitudes of the southern hemisphere. There are permanent blowing there western winds And almost there is no sushi, braking waves. 
Such a storm cause wind waves (fragment of the painting I.K. Aivazovsky "Wave").
An earthquake or eruption of a volcanic healing chapel is not as often as the wind, but incomparably stronger. Sometimes there are powerful waves propagating at hundreds of meters per second. They can leave the Pacific Ocean, and sometimes the whole land around before they begin to fluff. They are called tsunami. The height of the tsunami in the open ocean is only 1-2 m. But the wavelength (the distance between the ridges) is great. Therefore, it turns out that each wave carries a huge mass of water moving with a tremendous speed. When such a wave approaches the shore, it grows sometimes up to 50 m. Little can resist the tsunami on the shore. Humanity has not yet invented anything better than to evacuate the inhabitants of coastal areas into the mainland.
Elements sea waves arising under the action of wind in the oceans and seas, dependes Not only from the strength of the wind But from duration of its action, overclock lengths and bottom relief. Therefore, the wind of the same force under different concrete conditions can cause various waves. The observed maximum heights of waves in the oceans are much larger than in the seas.
Wind waves about 18 m high were observed in the Atlantic Ocean in the wind 10-11 points and about 21 meters With wind 12 points.
The height of the wave of 21 m was observed in the Pacific Ocean during a long hurricane stream.
In the Antarctic waters, the dysile gland in 1958 was measured by the instrumental wave height of 24.5 m.
The highest wind wave in height - 34 m was recorded in the Pacific Ocean.
But such high wind waves are quite rare. So, for the occurrence of a wave with a height of 23 m, it is necessary that the wind at a speed of at least 27 m / s accessed, without changing its significantly speed and direction, within 2 days at a distance of 1200 marine miles (2200 km).
The decisive effect on the turbidity of the sea is provided:
the limited water area and the degree of sea dissection into individual pools, which prevents the growth and spread of wind waves;
relief;
the possibility of penetration into this sea waves from the neighboring seas or oceans;
development in the sea of \u200b\u200bice cover;
the intensity, stability and direction of storm winds, which is associated with the nature of cyclonic activity over the sea.
The repeatability of waves with a height of 6 m and is more than 17-20% in the most stormy, storm waters of the oceans. IN tropical zones The repeatability of such waves is no more than 3-5%. On the seas of waves 6 m high and more found quite rarely. But in Northern, Norwegian, Bering, the Okhotsk seas, the average long-term repeatability of waves with a height of 6 m and is more than 8%.
The greatest observed height of the wind waves in the Black Sea was 9 m.
Especially highlighted the water area of \u200b\u200bthe Southern Ocean. South 40 About Yu.Sh. Repeatability of waves with a height of more than 3 m in all seasons of the year at least 40%. it famous "roaring forties" latitude .
Maximum storm waves can reach lengths of about 400 m and, therefore, spread to significant depths. If we take in accordance with the trocoidal theory of waves, that the wave height with depth decreases under the exponential law, it is not difficult to calculate that with a wave height on the surface 15 m at a depth of 150 m, the wave height will be 0.7 m, at a depth of 100 m - 1.9 m, and on depth 30 m - 7 m.
The geographical distribution of waves in various parts of the world ocean for the seasons (months) is given in special benefits.
2. Tides in the World Ocean
Podium is the ocean heartbeat, the pulse, felt all over the world.
Albert Defantant
german oceanographer
2.1. Concept of tide
Tides (tidal oscillations of the level) in the world ocean The dynamic and physico-chemical processes in the waters of the seas and oceans caused by the faded forces of the moon and the Sun are called.
Flips are observed not only in the aqueous shell of the Earth. The tidal deformations of the solid body of the Earth and tidal fluctuations of the atmospheric pressure are established. The effect of tides affects the changes in some characteristics of the high layers of the atmosphere and the deep layers of the oceans. Electromagnetic phenomena are also associated with tides in the atmosphere and hydrosphere.
The history of tides begins at the earliest stage of the universe. Since the mutual attraction of bodies in space is the law of the universe, then tides must have been operating on other planets before the earth was formed, because the fading forces arose already then in the stars clusters.
On Earth, herbs existed long before the oceans appeared. And even before the moon was formed, which partly manages them. The attraction of the sun gave rise to huge tides on the surface of the Earth in those times when it was a molten mass. According to one of the theories, even the formation of the moon is associated with the separation from the Earth as a result of a strong tide of the part of the molten mass.
At the beginning of his space travel, the moon was much closer to Earth than now. And at the time when earth evaporation, condensed into moisture, formed oceans, tides, generated by the moon, achieved a huge height. They collapsed on the islands - continents, changing their outlines and washing the salt from solid earthly rocks and other chemicals that are now kept in seawater.
As the moon moved away from the ground, her rings were weakened and, finally, they became such as we observe them today. But now they are experiencing noticeable fluctuations. Every few centuries, the location of the moon, land and the sun is repeated relative to each other, which causes long-term tidal cycles: about 550 years. e. The tides were minimal, in 1400 they reached a maximum, and the next minimum is expected to approximately in 2400.
Nowadays, as the moon is steadily distinguished from the ground, tides continue to weaken imperceptibly. At the same time, tidal friction slows down rotation of landAs a result, with each century, the earthly day is lengthened on the fraction of a second. So it will continue further, and through many millions of years the lunar feeds will disappear at all.
In addition to the cosmic forces of attraction between the Earth, the Moon and the Sun, the physico-geographical conditions of the sea or the ocean, the outlines of the shores, sizes, depths, the presence of islands, etc. If the ocean covered the ground completely with a layer of the same depth, her tides on the same latitude would be the same and depended only on the faded forces of the moon and the sun. However, tidal level fluctuations on the same latitude are changed in very wide limits. In some districts, such as, for example, in Fandy Bay (Canada), tidal level fluctuations reaches 16 m, according to the estimated - 18 m, and in the other - the Baltic Sea, located on the same latitude, they are practically absent.
Tidal phenomena are a wave movement. Under the action of a periodic adhering force in the ocean there is a complex wave, having a period corresponding to the period of strength, but different amplitude and phase from it. Water particles in a tidal wave move along orbits having a form of an ellipse, with the axis very strongly elongated horizontally. The movement of particles on their orbits observer perceives as periodic oscillations of the level and flows.
Unlike other types of waves in the world ocean, tidal waves are regular and expressed extremely brightly. IN coastal areas Tidal oscillations in 5-6 m - not uncommon. Near the coast, strong tidal flows are also observed. In the narrowness they reach the speed of 5-10 and even 12 miles per hour. With the shutdown from the banks, tidal fluctuations of the level and flow decrease. Regardless of this, they still have a significant impact on the state of the world of the world's ocean, as long tidal waves cover the entire waterstock.
What depends the height of the wave? The height of the wave depends on the strength, duration and length of the wind run. The more wind run away, the higher it is. As a rule, waves do not exceed four meters. In areas where hurricanes are often there, they can reach a 25-meter height: such waves can be seen between New Zealand, Cape Mountain (extreme point South America) And Antarctica (Southern Polar Continent).
What happens to the objects on the waves? A floating object (for example, the ball) "dances" on the waves, that is, moving up and down, staying on the spot. This is because the wave is moving in a circle - up, forward, down and again back. The same movements performs the subject: it remains on the spot, since only waves are moved along the surface of the water, and it is still motionless.
What happens when "meet" waves? The movement of the waves forms rows of crests and soles. Waves of different ridges intersect. If the crest of one runs on the second comb, they are superimposed on each other and the wave height increases almost twice. If the comb rolls on the sole of the wave, then, accordingly, it decreases.
What is asking? After the storm, the wind pokes, but the silent sea does not immediately become smooth. Short and steep waves are rolled through long and smooth with round ridges. Such wind waves are called asking. She can stand at the sea after a storm for several days, even weeks, and spread to sea expanses far from the occurrence.
How quickly the marine zyr? The wavelength of the sea zybi is from 250 to 900 meters. In the open sea, it spreads at a speed of 70 kilometers per hour and more and may not weaken, overcome huge distances. Passengers of the ship surprises the spectacle when in the windless sea zones suddenly occur.
What is surf? When the waves reach shallow sections, they slow down about the seabed, they become shorter, but at the same time cooler and higher. Finally they are broken by the beach. This raid of sea waves is stranded. Especially powerful snack waves where storm wind waves are raided ashore.
What are the applications exist? There are two types of arrivals: in one case, the waves are broken by the beach, and in the other - about the rocks. Beach facilities arise in shallow coasts, rocky concili - when the waves are broken about the rocky shores. The water of the beach surf was washed off, and the rocky waves chop out pieces of rocks from the rocks, as a result of which caves are formed in them. They are called grotts.
Why coastal erosion occurs? The coastal erosion is called the destruction of the soil, which over time leads to a change in the coast. Such changes are primarily marine surf. Since steep shores consist of soft sedimentary sediments (sediments), maritime comments are especially destroyed by them. Scientists call the coastal erosion by Abrazia.
What is the excitement of the sea? The movement of the waves caused by the wind is called the sea excitement. We are talking About wind waves, zybi and surf. Wind waves do not come from other sections of the seas, and occur with the immediate impact of wind on the surface of the water. The excitement of the sea depends primarily from the strength of the wind.
What is the strength of the wind? The winds have a strong effect on the sea, his waves and flows. The strength of the wind is of great importance - this is the name of its speed, to determine which is used by the beaufort scale. This twelvethibal scale in 1806 was created by the British Admiral Francis Beaufort (1774-1854). According to her 0, it means Chang, 12 - hurricane.
What is marine foam? Sea foam occurs when the wave is broken. Splashes that strong wind Flows from the crest of the wave, also called marine foam. Foam occurs when the waves fall when water dissipates.
Wipers spreading in space over time are called waves. The wave process is not accompanied by the transfer by the mass, but only the transfer of energy. That is, the oscillating vertically particles of water do not move horizontally, only the change in their energy occurs
Waves are different - on the surface of the liquid, sound, electromagnetic. But now we will focus on the waves arising in the maritime expanses. As it is clear from the definition, the waves occur when some formed oscillations begin to spread in space. And so that these whisters arose, the effect of external force is necessary. Depending on which external force is the cause of oscillations (which means both waves), distinguish friction waves, baric waves, seismic, standing and tidal.
Friction waves include wind waves and internal. Wind waves occur at the air - water border. When the wind blows, air layers periodically affect the surface of the water and cause its oscillations. The oscillations are distributed in space and the waves run along the sea. Usually their height is not more than four meters, but in the case of storm winds, it increases to fifteen meters and above. The greatest height Waves can reach the southern hemispheres of the Western winds of the Western winds - up to 25 meters.
The appearance of waves on the surface of the sea is preceded by ripples. It occurs at the wind speed of less than one meter per second. With increasing speed, the magnitude of the waves increases. High and steep wind waves wear a thumbname. When the wind subsides, the excitement for some time continues on the inertia, in this case they say that the sea is called. A wave running in shallow water ashore is called a surf. In this process, significant masses of water are involved, even when the wave height is not very high. When it exits her coastal shallow water, water particles due to much Energy, begins to move horizontally, back and forth, carrying stones and sand with them. Everyone who bought in the sea knows how they beat these pebbles on their feet. A strong enough surf is able to drag huge boulders.
Internal waves
Internal waves (underwater) occur under the surface of the sea, on the border of two layers of water with various properties. Captain Nemo was not entirely accurate and too idealized the ocean when she argued that he had peace within him. The water thickness of the ocean is heterogeneous, it consists of different layers. The physical characteristics of them (temperature, salinity, density) vary from the layer to the layer unevenly, on the border between them and the internal waves are formed. For the first time they were discovered by the Norwegian Polar Researcher, Dr. Zoology, Founder of Physical Oceanography Furoof, Nansen (1861-1930). During swimming on the vessel "Fram" on the North Pole, Nansen was observed in the Arctic Ocean periodic changes in the temperature and salinity of sea water at the same depth.
Similar waves may occur near the mouth of the rivers, in the straits with two-layer currents, at the edges of the melting ice. The height of the internal waves can be in tens times to exceed the height of the waves on the surface, but they are inferior to superficial. These waves are dangerous underwater boats, blur the port facilities (waveres, deckaders, pier), are able to disperse sound waves. Such waves are clearly visible from the satellite (in the photo). Usually they are small, but in the Luton Strait, between the Philippines and Taiwan, reach 170 meters in height. This is explained by the features water streams and terrain.
Baric waves There are due to the rapid change of atmospheric pressure in the locations of cyclones. These are single waves capable of passing hundreds, or even thousands of kilometers from the place of their occurrence and suddenly rush to the shore, blewing everything in their path. So in September 1935, the Baric wave with a height of nine meters fell ashore Florida and carried 400 human lives. The formation of such waves is not uncommon on the coasts of India, China, Japan.
Seismic waves arise as a result active processes In the bowels of the earth - earthquakes, eruptions of underwater volcanoes, formation of cracks and faults in earth Kore On the oceanic day. As a result, specific waves are formed, low in the open ocean and growing up to colossal sizes when approaching the shore - tsunami. Usually the harbinger of such an abnormal wave is a sharp departure of the sea a few kilometers from the coast. This is a danger signal - the sea will return in the form of an impairment monster, bearing death and destruction. However, about a href \u003d "/ tcunami"\u003e Tsunami on our site there is a separate article and we will be happy if you consult her.
Tidal waves
As a result of the action of gravitational forces on water shell Earth from the Sun and the Moon are formed tidal waves. These waves are most often small, in the open ocean their height is up to two meters. At the shore she increases. Maximum magnitude of the height of the tide reaches on Atlantic coast North America - up to 18 meters. In our Sea Okhotsk - almost 13 meters. Most strong impact It is observed in the new moon and the full moon when the gravitational attractions of the Sun and the Moon are folded. At this time, the tides become as high as possible, and the lowers are low.
In the inner seas, a tidal wave is insignificant at all, so on the Baltic St. Petersburg Its height is five centimeters. But in some rivers, its movement is a wonderful picture. For example, in Amazon (in the photo), when the tidal wave moves against the flow and its height reaches five meters. This phenomenon is felt at a distance of 1,400 kilometers from the mouth.
Standing waves (sewers) appear as a result of interference (addition) of waves arising under the action of external forces (wind, baric) and waves reflected from the shore ledges or underwater obstacles of sufficient length.
Seishi.
Such waves grow in height, alternating a comb with a cavity and remain in place, rising and dropping. They are easy to simulate in the bath, if you perform vertical oscillatory movements on the surface of the water, for example, periodically lowering the cover from the drain hole of the bath. After a while, the pointed trees standing in one place are installed correctly distributed in time and space. This is the object of our research.
Sisie arise in unexpected places, where it would seem, there are no reflected waves, as obstacles are not visible, they are under the surface of the water. They may cause the death of ships. In particular, such a version exists for the area of \u200b\u200bmysterious and terrible Bermuda triangleas one of the possible explanations for the disappearance of ships. This place is generally considered difficult for shipping due to various factors - the presence of shallow protrusions, the merging of several marine trends with different temperatures Water, complex bottom terrain. Here the continental shelf is first gradually deepening, and then suddenly goes to a decent depth. Submarine topography of the region affects education standing waves. It occurs with clear windless weather and therefore insidious doubly. A modern multi-torrent ship raised by such a wave will split into parts under the action of its own gravity and will disappear from the surface in a matter of minutes.
Sea waves - one of the fascinating natural phenomena. Their endless diversity and eternal movement soothes, charges energy. No wonder the peoples of ancient civilizations were known the healing properties of thalassotherapy (forwarding). The salt composition of the blood of a person is close to the composition of sea water, this element is related to us, and in the rustling of the surf on the shore, the beating of a big and kind heart.
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