Under marine waves, they understand the form of a periodic, continuously changing movement, in which water particles make oscillations near their equilibrium position.
Sea waves Classified on various features:
By origin Highlight next species Waves:
Winds formed under the action of wind
Tidal, arising under the action of attraction of the moon and the sun,
The anemobaric, formed by rejecting the surface level of the sea from the equilibrium position occurring under the action of wind and change atmospheric pressure,
Seismic (tsunami) arising from underwater earthquakes and eruption of underwater or coastal volcanoes,
Ship, resulting during the movement of the vessel.
By the forces, seeking to return water particle to the equilibrium position:
Capillary waves (ripples),
Gravitational.
For the action of force after the formation of the wave:
Free (the effect of force ceased)
Forced (the effect of force has not stopped.
By variability of elements in time:
Established (do not change their elements),
Unidentified, developing, fading, (changing their elements in time).
By location in the thickness of the water:
Surface, emerging on the surface of the sea ,
Internal arising at depth.
In form:
Two-dimensional, which are the long parallel shafts following each other,
Three-dimensional not forming parallel shafts. The length of the ridge is commensurate with a wavelength (wind excitement),
Secluded (single), having only a domed comb without a wave sole.
By the ratio of wavelength and depths of the sea:
Short (wavelength significantly less depth seas),
Long (wavelength is significantly more than the depth of the sea).
By moving the waveform:
Protective, characterized by visible movement of the wave profile of water particles move along circular orbits.
Standing (Seisha), do not move in space. Water particles make movement only in the vertical direction. Sisie occurs when the water level rises from one edge of the water branch and at the same time falls at the other usually after the cessation of wind.
In small pools (in the harbor, bay, etc.), sessian may occur during the passage of ships.
Most often in the seas and oceans, the vessels have to meet with wind waves, which cause a ships of the vessel, the deck of the deck, reduce the speed of the course, and with a strong storm caused damage that lead to the death of the vessel.
Wind excitement is divided into three main types:
Window - this is an excitement that is formed by the wind, which is revealed to this place At the moment. With a weakening or complete termination of the wind, the excitement goes into the zyb.
Swell - This is an excitement that spreads over inertia in the form of free waves after weakening or stopping the wind. Sybry, spreading at the Stille, is called dead. Waves of zybi are usually longer than wind, more commonly and have an almost symmetrical shape. The direction of the Zybi may differ from the direction of the wind and often, Zybva extends to towards the wind or at right angles to it.
Surf - These are waves formed by wind waves or asking near the shores. Spreading with deep water of the Open Sea towards the coast on the shallow water, the waves are transformed. Three-dimensional waves turn into a two-dimensional, having a look of long crests parallel to each other, their height, steepness and destructive force increase the force of the pumping wave can reach 90 t / m 2. In the zone of the surf, overturning and overgrowing moments, dangerous for floating conditions, arise.
So swimming in shallow coastal zone And landing ashore is very difficult here, dangerous, and sometimes impossible.
Warnings about underwater obstacles can be burunas.
Burun is a phenomenon when the waves roll over and break over the grinders, banks, reefs and other increase in the bottom.
One of the varieties of waves is holy -this meeting of waves from different directions, as a result of which they lose a certain direction of movement and are indiscriminate standing waves.
Wipers spreading in space over time are called waves. The wave process is not accompanied by the transfer by the mass, but only the transfer of energy. That is, the oscillating vertically particles of water do not move horizontally, only the change in their energy occurs
Waves are different - on the surface of the liquid, sound, electromagnetic. But now we will focus on the waves arising in the maritime expanses. As it is clear from the definition, the waves occur when some formed oscillations begin to spread in space. And so that these whisters arose, the effect of external force is necessary. Depending on which external force is the cause of oscillations (which means both waves), distinguish friction waves, baric waves, seismic, standing and tidal.
Friction waves include wind waves and internal. Wind waves occur at the air - water border. When the wind blows, air layers periodically affect the surface of the water and cause its oscillations. The oscillations are distributed in space and the waves run along the sea. Usually their height is not more than four meters, but in the case of storm winds, it increases to fifteen meters and above. The greatest height Waves can reach in the strip western winds Southern Hemisphere - Up to 25 meters.
The appearance of waves on the surface of the sea is preceded by ripples. It occurs at the wind speed of less than one meter per second. With increasing speed, the magnitude of the waves increases. High and steep wind waves wear a thumbname. When the wind subsides, the excitement for some time continues on the inertia, in this case they say that the sea is called. A wave running in shallow water ashore is called a surf. In this process, significant masses of water are involved, even when the wave height is not very high. When it exits it to the coastal shallow water, water particles due to the greater energy, they begin to move horizontally, back and forth, carrying stones and sand with them. Everyone who bought in the sea knows how they beat these pebbles on their feet. A strong enough surf is able to drag huge boulders.
Internal waves
Internal waves (underwater) occur under the surface of the sea, on the border of two layers of water with various properties. Captain Nemo was not entirely accurate and too idealized the ocean when she argued that he had peace within him. The water thickness of the ocean is heterogeneous, it consists of different layers. The physical characteristics of them (temperature, salinity, density) vary from the layer to the layer unevenly, on the border between them and the internal waves are formed. For the first time they were discovered by the Norwegian Polar Researcher, Dr. Zoology, Founder of Physical Oceanography Furoof, Nansen (1861-1930). During swimming on the vessel "Fram" on the North Pole, Nansen observed in the Arctic Ocean periodic changes in temperature and salinity sea water At the same depth.
Similar waves may occur near the mouth of the rivers, in the straits with two-layer currents, at the edges of the melting ice. The height of the internal waves can be in tens times to exceed the height of the waves on the surface, but they are inferior to superficial. These waves are dangerous underwater boats, blur the port facilities (waveres, deckaders, pier), are able to disperse sound waves. Such waves are clearly visible from the satellite (in the photo). Usually they are small, but in the Luton Strait, between the Philippines and Taiwan, reach 170 meters in height. This is explained by the features water streams and terrain.
Baric waves There are due to the rapid change of atmospheric pressure in the locations of cyclones. These are single waves capable of passing hundreds, or even thousands of kilometers from the place of their occurrence and suddenly rush to the shore, blewing everything in their path. So in September 1935, the Baric wave with a height of nine meters fell ashore Florida and carried 400 human lives. The formation of such waves is not uncommon on the coasts of India, China, Japan.
Seismic waves arise as a result of active processes in the depths of the Earth - earthquakes, eruptions of underwater volcanoes, formation of cracks and faults in earth Kore On the oceanic day. As a result, specific waves are formed, low in open Ocean and growing up to colossal sizes when approaching the shore - tsunami. Usually the harbinger of such an abnormal wave is a sharp departure of the sea a few kilometers from the coast. This is a danger signal - the sea will return in the form of an impairment monster, carrying death and destruction. However, about a href \u003d "/ tcunami"\u003e Tsunami on our site there is a separate article and we will be happy if you consult her.
Tidal waves
As a result of the action of gravitational forces on water shell Earth from the Sun and the Moon are formed tidal waves. These waves are most often small, in the open ocean their height is up to two meters. At the shore she increases. Maximum magnitude of the height of the tide reaches on Atlantic coast North America - up to 18 meters. In our Sea Okhotsk - almost 13 meters. The strongest impact is observed in the new moon and the full moon when the gravitational attractions of the Sun and the Moon are folded. At this time, the tides become as high as possible, and the lowers are low.
In the inner seas, a tidal wave is insignificant at all, so on the Baltic St. Petersburg Its height is five centimeters. But in some rivers, its movement is a wonderful picture. For example, in Amazon (in the photo), when the tidal wave moves against the flow and its height reaches five meters. This phenomenon is felt at a distance of 1,400 kilometers from the mouth.
Standing waves (sewers) appear as a result of interference (addition) of waves arising under the action of external forces (wind, baric) and waves reflected from the shore ledges or underwater obstacles of sufficient length.
Seishi.
Such waves grow in height, alternating a comb with a cavity and remain in place, rising and dropping. They are easy to simulate in the bath, if you perform vertical oscillatory movements on the surface of the water, for example, periodically lowering the cover from the drain hole of the bath. After a while, the pointed trees standing in one place are installed correctly distributed in time and space. This is the object of our research.
Sisie arise in unexpected places, where it would seem, there are no reflected waves, as obstacles are not visible, they are under the surface of the water. They may cause the death of ships. In particular, such a version exists for the area of \u200b\u200bmysterious and terrible Bermuda triangleas one of the possible explanations for the disappearance of ships. This place is generally considered difficult for shipping due to various factors - the presence of shallow protrusions, the merging of several marine trends with different temperatures Water, complex bottom terrain. Here the continental shelf is first gradually deepening, and then suddenly goes to a decent depth. Submarine topography of the region affects education standing waves. It occurs with clear windless weather and therefore insidious doubly. A modern multi-torrent ship raised by such a wave will split into parts under the action of its own gravity and will disappear from the surface in a matter of minutes.
Sea waves are one of the fascinating natural phenomena. Their endless diversity and eternal movement soothes, charges energy. No wonder the peoples of ancient civilizations were known the healing properties of thalassotherapy (forwarding). The salt composition of the blood of a person is close to the composition of sea water, this element is related to us, and in the rustling of the surf on the shore, the beating of a big and kind heart.
Friends! We spent a lot of strength to create a project. When copying the material, please put a link to the original!
Australian photographer Matt Burgess for six years takes off the ocean. He takes pictures from unusual angles and even looks at the "under the wave" - \u200b\u200bmost people did not see the ocean from this side.
Waters of the World Ocean are constantly moving. On the shore, the waves roll back. And water in the waves do not move only in the horizontal direction - it can be easily ensured by watching the float on the water.
W. canopy shore The wave "feels" bottom. From friction, the lower part of the liquid layer is braked, and the crest of the wave continues to move, leans forward and overturns. So arises surf. A foamy water shaft comes to the shore, and towards him, the water of the previous wave flows from the shore.
The main reason for the wave is the wind. It seems to push the aqueous surface and leads it from the state of equilibrium.
Even a weak wind can create waves. Usually the wave height does not exceed 4 meters. Large waves (more than 20 meters) are generated by storm winds. The largest of the wind waves of 34 meters high (this is the height of the 10-storey house) was recorded in the central part Pacific Ocean In 1933.
When the wind weakens, the high ocean waves change with ripples - low excitement. The stronger, the long-lasting wind and larger water space, the higher the wave. With depth of water, the excitement decreases and becomes invisible.
Waves perform destructive and creative work. In some places, they with such force beat about the shore, which destroy rocks
On the shores of the Black Sea, the wave impact force can reach 25 tons per 1 sq.m. Not all the construction will endure such an onslaught. At the same time, water rises up to a height of up to 60 meters.
When the ocean wave storm is able to move the stones weighing a few tons. To protect the shores and port facilities from destruction, build special wave of reinforced concrete plates.
The creative work of the ocean waves is the creation of sandy and pebble beaches. In addition, the waves are stirred water, contribute to the enrichment of it with oxygen and heat. It is necessary for living organisms of the ocean.
Earthquakes and volcanic eruptions may cause huge waves - tsunami, which extend to all parties from the place of occurrence and cover the entire watertime water from the bottom to the surface. Tsunami go through the entire ocean at the speed of the reactive aircraft.
The height of the tsunami in the open ocean is small - up to 1 m with a wavelength of 200 km. Therefore, among the aquatic expansion, there is no big excitement and the tsunami is difficult to notice.
Everything changes with the approach to the shore. Before the tsunami, the sea, exposing the bottom, departs from the shores for hundreds of meters, as if for running. And then the wave rapidly rolling. Closed by shores in a narrow harbor, it grows up to 20-30 m. That is why the Japanese word "tsunami" is literally translated as "wave in the harbor".
Water Water Tsunami all severity fell on the coast. She turns the ship, destroys buildings, and retreating, carries everything in the ocean, which comes across her path. More often tsunami occurs on the western coast of the Pacific Ocean. It is impossible to prevent the tsunami, you can only warn in advance about the approach.
It was long ago it was noted that every 6 hours the water level in the world ocean is rising, it is lowered. Water then comes to the shore and moves far away to land, it retreats from him, exposing the bottom. Raise the water level in the ocean is called an influx, and its decline in the outflow. On the coasts of the seas, the width of the supply band sometimes reaches several kilometers. In the influx there you can swim by boat and fish. In the tump - walk along the bottom and collect shells.
Podium is also the ocean waves. They are caused by the gravity of the Moon and the Sun. Together they manage to create a tidal wave. In contrast to the usual, tidal wave is non-planette. Huge masses of the world's ocean are rising, they are lowered. Ocean as if breathing.
The moon and, to a lesser extent, the sun causes tides and flowed, as on schedule - 2 times a day. Tides and flows, like day and night, come to our planet with the accuracy of good hours.
The time of the onset of tides is not the same everywhere. In addition, in the ocean, the height of such waves is less than 1 m, so they are invisible. High tides are observed in narrow bays, the mouths of the rivers. So, the height of the tide in the Black Sea can only be a few centimeters, and in the narrow bays of the Sea of \u200b\u200bthe Sea, it reaches 13 meters. The highest tides in the oceans reaching 18 m are observed in Fandy Bay eastern coast North America.
Special distributors have long been drawn up special tables that allowed ships with a high or low wave. Nowadays, the table replaced computers.
And tidal waves have a huge energy that a person uses electricity to produce electricity.
Interestingly, as a result of the construction of a "tidal" hydroelectric power plant, as they believed, the Earth will slow down the rotation around its axis for one day at 2 thousand years.
It is curious that big depths In the ocean there are waves up to 100 meters high, but on the surface of the water these waves are invisible.
What depends the height of the wave? The height of the wave depends on the strength, duration and length of the wind run. The more wind run away, the higher it is. As a rule, waves do not exceed four meters. In areas where hurricanes are often there, they can reach a 25-meter height: such waves can be seen between New Zealand, Cape Mountain (extreme point South America) And Antarctica (Southern Polar Continent).
What happens to the objects on the waves? A floating object (for example, the ball) "dances" on the waves, that is, moving up and down, staying on the spot. This is because the wave is moving in a circle - up, forward, down and again back. The same movements performs the subject: it remains on the spot, since only waves are moved along the surface of the water, and it is still motionless.
What happens when "meet" waves? The movement of the waves forms rows of crests and soles. Waves of different ridges intersect. If the crest of one runs on the second comb, they are superimposed on each other and the wave height increases almost twice. If the comb rolls on the sole of the wave, then, accordingly, it decreases.
What is asking? After the storm, the wind pokes, but the silent sea does not immediately become smooth. Short and steep waves are rolled through long and smooth with round ridges. Such wind waves are called asking. She can stand at the sea after a storm for several days, even weeks, and spread to sea expanses far from the occurrence.
How quickly the marine zyr? The wavelength of the sea zybi is from 250 to 900 meters. In the open sea, it spreads at a speed of 70 kilometers per hour and more and may not weaken, overcome huge distances. Passengers of the ship surprises the spectacle when in the windless sea zones suddenly occur.
What is surf? When the waves reach shallow sections, they slow down about the seabed, they become shorter, but at the same time cooler and higher. Finally they are broken by the beach. This raid of sea waves is stranded. Especially powerful snack waves where storm wind waves are raided ashore.
What are the applications exist? There are two types of arrivals: in one case, the waves are broken by the beach, and in the other - about the rocks. Beach facilities arise in shallow coasts, rocky concili - when the waves are broken about the rocky shores. The water of the beach surf was washed off, and the rocky waves chop out pieces of rocks from the rocks, as a result of which caves are formed in them. They are called grotts.
Why coastal erosion occurs? The coastal erosion is called the destruction of the soil, which over time leads to a change in the coast. Such changes are primarily marine surf. Since steep shores consist of soft sedimentary sediments (sediments), maritime comments are especially destroyed by them. Scientists call the coastal erosion by Abrazia.
What is the excitement of the sea? The movement of the waves caused by the wind is called the sea excitement. We are talking About wind waves, zybi and surf. Wind waves do not come from other sections of the seas, and occur with the immediate impact of wind on the surface of the water. The excitement of the sea depends primarily from the strength of the wind.
What is the strength of the wind? Wind possess strong exposure At sea, his waves and flows. Great importance It has the strength of the wind - this is the name of its speed, to determine which is used by the beaufort scale. This twelvethibal scale in 1806 was created by the British Admiral Francis Beaufort (1774-1854). According to her 0, it means Chang, 12 - hurricane.
What is marine foam? Sea foam occurs when the wave is broken. Splashes that strong wind Flows from the crest of the wave, also called marine foam. Foam occurs when the waves fall when water dissipates.
Told stories O. mysterious natural phenomenon . Inexplicable strength, which appears nowhere and also disappears without a trace. The mysterious strength that cannot be foreseen, warn or outdo it. However B. modern world scientists finally managed to open the curtain of secrecy over the phenomenon known as waves killers.
Oceanic waves. One of the most powerful elements on Earth. About the waves are well known - they give rise to storms and they reach huge heights, but sailors claim that there are other waves, Higher and destructive. Their height is four times higher than usual. One single wave, bearing death. It is high enough that to flood a ten-story building or turn the 300-meter cruise.
ships and courts after meeting in the killer wave
nORWEGIAN DREAM liner
cargo ship "Wilstar"
However, oral stories and detected ships detected only thickening the veil of the secrets around this phenomenon. For many years, oceanographers argued that the waves reaching 36 meters in height are impossible. According to their calculations, such waves are formed 1 time in 10,000 years. However, nature proved that even mathematical models sometimes give a failure.
Origin huge waves It is not known, and their existence is not proven.
waves killers
Many, sent to swimming in the era of great geographical discoveries, were often not returned back. On average, one ship was often lost on the ocean expanses, often without a trace. Since then, the principles of shipbuilding have changed. The stability and strength of ships and ships increased markedly. However, until 2005, two ships were tone per week. As always with quite mysterious circumstances. No one believed that the killer wave was to blame individual cases were not supported by testimonies.
In 1980 " Esso Languedoc."She walked from the port of Durban to South Africa. The sea was restless, the waves reached a height of 4 meters. Senior Captain Assistant stood on the bridge when a wave many times above all the rest appeared from nowhere and began to approach the ship. He managed to click the camera shutter. The top of the mast on the right side was at an altitude of 25 meters from the water level, so the height of the wave in comparison with it was defined as 30.5 meters. With the advent of real evidence made the society think about. Tanker « Esso Languedoc."I managed to survive a crushing blow, which shook the cargo ship from the nose to the stern.
the wave height is recorded from the "ESSO Languedoc" tanker
However, even such evidence, scientists have anyway doubted wave-killers. And only in 1995, as a result of the strike on the oil platform " Draupner."The first readings of the power of the wave were obtained. " Draupner."Stayed in the North Sea and on the first day of the new year, 10 meter waves were besieged. This was nothing unusual. Suddenly at a speed of 70 km / h oil platform collapsed wave three times more usual. With its impact, the laser mounted on the platform recorded the exact readings of this "monster". The crest of the wave was at an altitude of 27 meters.
draupner Drilling Platform
Oceanographers were able to analyze the wave spectra before, during and after the wave. The results were stunning. Scientists finally managed to give scientific name The killer's wave - " wandering Wave" It appears unexpectedly and in no way associated with other waves in the spectrum. Arises due to air flows, but the direction it gives the current. When the underwater flow faces the waves, which are in the opposite direction, waves can be gripped and ridd up, forming " wandering wave" This explains why similar phenomena are so frequent in areas with a strong current. Gulf Stream flow is one of them through the notorious area of \u200b\u200bthe Bermuda Triangle. It is likely that the cause of many incredible disappearances in the area of \u200b\u200bthe Bermuda Triangle is not an impact of supernatural forces, but the power of the ocean and its generation - waves killers.
Another environment waves killers Natural obstacles, such as islands, shallow, reefs. Waves envelop the island, and meet on the other hand, overlapping each other than they cause their strength. The imposition of two coherent waves causes a wave, the height of which is equal to the sum of the heights of individual waves. This phenomenon is called interference.
Waves killers appear in calm waters. They are formed under the influence of the storm of the raging hundreds of miles, and then they drive them into a certain area of \u200b\u200ba strong wind.
Trading Courts play crucial role in the global economy. 95 percent of goods are transported by sea. More than 10 million people rest annually on cruise liners, so it is so important to build that will not be able to crush a big wave.
Ten meters storm waves Attack with a force equal to six tons of 0.04 square meters. m. Many withstand the power equal to fifteen tons, but a 30-meter wave-killer It has a hundred tons. It is almost two times more powerful industrial rink. Today shipbuilders create responsible for certain standards. One of the main problems of shipbuilders is the ability waves killers Climb through the nose of the ship and knock out the porth trimons in the superstructure, while the electrical equipment is in order. As a result, the ship loses control.
A possible solution to the problem can be the re-equipment of the undercarriage and other add-ons. " Queen Mary2." is an bright things Example. It has a thick case, enhanced body kit and nose with a sharp collapse of sides, which provides protection against big waves. However, these technical innovations will not help if the waterproof shutters will not stand.
The ocean is in itself an extraordinary force that comes nothing and capable of destroying a 300-meter vessel within a few seconds. The tragedies made scientific communities intensify their efforts. The study of fragments brought alarming data, shipbuilders who studied marine disasters that occurred in the period from 1969 to 1994 found that for these 25 years 60 sank as a result of sudden flooding. Analyzes have shown that the third could have happened as a result of the impact wave-killers. To avoid new catastrophe scientists need to find out the frequency and concentration mighty waves. The monitoring of the World Ocean turned out to be unthinkable, but in the early 1990s, the European Space Agency launched two into space artificial satellite Earth. Now with their help, you can observe a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe ocean and apply wave oscillations to the card in any conditions. Use data from the satellite to determine the surface oscillations, the analysis of the wavelength, the length of their ridge, the cracks of the waves and maximum height. The satellite data refuted the theory that 30-meter waves killers They are formed once every 10,000 years. High waves The phenomenon is much frequent than scientists assumed.
Loading...
