I usually don’t retype texts that aren’t my own, but I found an interesting description of the Western Dvina River, also known as the Daugava, flowing into the Baltic Sea near Riga, which is useful to have on hand - there are also links to historical studies of the river bed, some data about it width and depth in different places, something that is often necessary for conversation. And to “revive” the dry text, I added three dozen photographs of the river different years and different places. There are photos that I took on film in the last century :-), there are also digital photos recent years. And in the title of the post I wanted to put this romanticized painting by a local artist:


1.5. Description of the river from source to mouth

The first description of the Western Dvina - Daugava by sections was undertaken in the 18th century. In 1701, a description of the river from its source to the city of Polotsk was completed at the behest of Peter the Great by steward Maxim Tsyzarev. Later, projects were drawn up for local improvement of the river or for the establishment of a direct waterway between the Baltic, Caspian and Black Seas. In 1783-1785 engineer Trosson carried out surveys of the Western Dvina from the city of Surazh to the mouth of Luchosa (near Vitebsk), drew up plans of the river on a scale of 200 fathoms in 1 inch and a longitudinal profile. In 1809, General de Witte drew up a plan of the river from source to mouth on a scale of 100 fathoms in 1 inch, with depths indicated along the fairway. In 1812, Major General Ivashevich drew up plans for the rapids part of the Daugava for 140 miles. In 1826, engineer-captain Volkov carried out detailed surveys of the river over 140 miles from the source from Lake Okhvat. In 1827, engineer-captain Zagoskin studied the Daugava in the area from the city of Jekabpils to the island of Dole (above Riga). Among the data he received was a table showing the location of the rapids, the drop and the speed of the current on them. In 1857-1861. Surveys were carried out between Disna and Riga under the leadership of engineer Lieutenant Colonel Iovets.

Daugava embankment in Riga in 2006

From 1886 to 1888, the Daugava from Vitebsk to Mazumprava (above Riga) - a distance of 561 versts - was studied by the Western Dvina Party under the command of engineer N.F. Shelyuta. The purpose of the research was related to the project of connecting the Black and Baltic seas. The upper section of the river was studied to determine the feeding conditions of the river. Were compiled detailed plans rivers on a scale of 50 fathoms in 0.01 fathoms, as well as the longitudinal profile of the river. These plans are the last filming of the Daugava over such a long distance. Only in certain areas near some cities, especially near Riga, more detailed surveys were later carried out.

Stone Bridge (Akmens Tilts) in Riga, 2008*

Let's follow the flow of the Western Dvina - Daugava from its source to its mouth.

The river begins among the forests and swamps of the Valdai Upland near the village of Koryakino. Near the source of the Western Dvina are the sources of the Volga (14 km) and the Dnieper (140 km), giving water to the Caspian and Black Seas. At the very upper reaches of the Western Dvina, a small stream passes through Lake Dvinets, located at an altitude of 220 m above the average level of the Baltic Sea. After less than 10 km, a river with a width of 5-6 m flows into the upper end of Lake Okhvat (length - 20 km, width - about 1.3 km, mirror area - 13.6 km2, drainage area - 586 km2). It should be noted that in terms of water content, the Western Dvina in this section is inferior to many other rivers flowing into Lake Okhvat, for example, Volkota (61 km), Netesma (36 km).

Since we don’t yet have photographs of the river outside Latvia, I will give a few photos from Riga. Cable-stayed bridge, 2007

Flowing from Lake Okhvat, the Western Dvina already has a width of up to 40 and a depth of 1-2 m. The channel is replete with islands. The banks are mostly wooded. Velocities at the source of the river are about 0.4-0.9 m/s. In spring, current speeds here are more significant, as water rushes out of the lake under greater pressure. Reach areas alternate with small rapids. At a distance of 2-3 km from Lake Okhvat there are the first rapids: Krasny Kamen and Medved, then the third rapid follows - Baran, then Ostrovki, etc. At the rapids, the river bottom is composed of limestone, which in some places is covered with a layer of sand; Sometimes blue clay is exposed at the bottom of the river. In these places, the river banks abound with numerous springs.

Panorama of Riga, 2006*

Some sections of the Western Dvina are winding, but the valley to the river. White is not wide. In spring, the water rises by 1.8-2.3 m. Near the mouth of the Verezhunitsa there are the Verezhunsky rapids, and the river bed in this place is so winding that it makes rafting impossible. Therefore, at one time a excavation was made here. Below the excavation, the Verezhunsky rapids stretch for 1.5 km; they consist of three braids separated by clear reaches. The width of the river at the rapids is 30-40 m. Below the Verezhunsky rapids, the depth is 0.5-1.8 m, the flow speed is 0.8-1.4 m/s (at the rapids the speed is about 2 m/s). Toward the mouth of the Velesa the banks become lower. Here the Western Dvina has a width of 35-40 m, and below the confluence of the Velesa it already reaches 55 m. Along with the width, the depth also increases, it reaches 1.8-2.2 m, and the flow speed is 0.7 m/s. The width of the river bed continues to gradually increase and in some places at the fords reaches 80 m.

Further, the river passes through two small lakes: Luka and Kalakutskoye, which are, in essence, river floods that do not disappear in the summer. The current here is insignificant, and many areas are overgrown with reeds. The shores are hilly, composed of moraine deposits with significant accumulations of boulders. On this site characteristic feature the right bank of the Western Dvina is big number large and small lakes located directly next to the river and connected to it by small rivers and channels. Some lakes lie on the path of tributaries of the Western Dvina, for example, Toropa, with which more than 35 lakes communicate.

View in Riga from the Stone Bridge, 2008*

In the area of ​​the mouth of the Luzhesyanka (above Vitebsk), dolomites appear in the riverbed, forming a series of rapids, the largest of which are Krestov, Yastreb, Medvedsk, Tyakova, Verkhovsk, Bervin, etc. The width of the river in this section is already approaching 100 m, the depth is predominantly 1 .2-2.0, at the rapids - 0.3-0.5 m.

Near Vitebsk and below, rapids and sandy shoals are even more common. Here the river flows through an ancient valley. From Vitebsk to the confluence of the Ulla, you can count 33 rapids. In this area, the width of the river valley is about 800 m, the slopes are steep with narrow strips of terraces. The highest current speeds - up to 1.2 m/s - are observed on the Vyazhitsa and Konek rapids. To improve navigation in rapid areas, buoys were built and dredging was carried out, resulting in depths that allowed maintaining a fairway for ships with a draft of 0.6 m.

The Daugava embankment in Riga near the Sun Stone building (Saules Akmens) in 2008*

Below the Vitebsk rapids, the Western Dvina valley expands to 1.5-1.8 km, and in the Beshenkovichi area, turning in a northwestern direction, the river enters the Polotsk lowland. Here, in the riverbed up to Polotsk, there are separate sandbanks; its width on average is 100-150 m, in some places - about 200, depth - mainly up to 3, in the shallows - 0.8-1.0 m.

Apart from some local dredging and other measures to improve timber rafting and navigation in the area of ​​the Vitebsk rapids and the installation of groynes, we can say that the Western Dvina from its source generally retains its natural state.

Sunset over the Daugava in Riga, 2008*

In the section from Polotsk to Disna the river has no rapids. Below they appear again. The Disnyansky rapids have the following names: Nachsky, Blizne, Rozboynik, Nikolskaya Gol, Minvo and Dog Hole.

In the area from the mouth of Ulla to Daugavpils, the width of the river is on average 100-150 m, in some places - 200-300, the depth is mainly up to 3 m, in rapids areas - about 0.8 m. Above the village of Piedruja there are several islands in the river, and the width of the channel here it reaches 700 m. Below the confluence of the Druya, the channel of the Western Dvina again narrows to 100-150 m.

On the territory of Latvia, the river first flows between the Latgale and Augšzeme uplands, using an ancient valley that was once formed melt water glacier.

But starting from these places, the flow of the river can be illustrated with our photos!

The width of the valley is about 1 km. The river formed several terraces in it, especially well preserved on the concave side of the bends. The site is characterized by significant bank collapses with many springs, small tributaries and streams. There are several shallows and rapids in the channel, for example, the Indrica, Krovatka and Zaklidnya shallows and the long Kraslava rapids formed by boulders. They also have several sand islands. Below Kraslava there are rapids Dvorishte, Ostera, Kaplavas, Alshanskas.

Daugava in the Indritsa area, 2000

On the approach to Daugavpils, the river makes five bends, three large bends below the village of Jaunborne stand out especially. The largest rapids in this area are Krivets. Below Daugavpils, the Daugava flows through the East Latvian Lowland. The character of the river changes dramatically. The banks become flat and low, the floodplain, especially the left bank, expands. In some places in the valleys of the Ilukste and Dviete rivers it reaches a width of 5-6 km. The river bed is sandy. There are sandbanks and islands, for example, opposite the village of Vaikulany. Above the mouth of the Dviete, the Berezovka shoal formed, and below - the island of Glaudanu. These shoals usually cause ice jams to form, resulting in large areas of flooding. The next islands where ice jams often form are Molugols, below the villages of Nitsgale and Jersika, and Plonju, below the village of Dunava.

Further, the sandy bed and banks disappear and gray dolomites are exposed, forming rapids. In some places there are islands in the river. For example, between the cities of Livani and Jekabpils you can count 10 islands, the largest of which is Abelu. In the Jekabpils area there are several inhabited islands in the river, connected by bridges to the banks. Saka Island is approximately 6 km long and 3 km wide. There are about 60 farms on it. The main channel of the Daugava runs along right side of this island, the left channel - the Saka - passes less than 1/5 of the water flow.

At Jekabpils an exclusively rapid section of the riverbed begins. The Zvanitai threshold is located directly within the city limits. Below the city along the island of Saka are the Pirkazhu rapids, which, occupying a stretch of more than 3 km, consist of individual rapids: Širinas, Guskas, Pečinyas, Greiza, Kanepaites, Ozolnicas, Udupa, Stirniņas. The section ends with the Razbainieku shoal.

Daugava in Stukmani, 2000

If the average drop from Daugavpils to Livana is only 5 cm/km, and near Jekabpils it increases to 25 cm/km, then in the three-kilometer rapids section near Jekabpils the drop reaches 2 m/km.

Water rushes violently down the dolomite steps at a speed of 1.5-2.0 m/s. At these thresholds, at the normal level of the reservoir of the Plavinska HPP, the retaining level becomes pinched out. The pinch-out boundary is located approximately 163.5 km from the mouth. At this level, the Razbainieku shoal and the Stirniņas and Udupa rapids are already backed up, and pinching occurs in the area of ​​the Ozolnicas and Kanepaites rapids; wherein top part The Pirkazhu rapids - Greiza, Pecinyas, Guskas and Širinas rapids - remain outside the influence of retaining waters.

Daugava in the Koknese region, 1999

From the rapids of Pirkazhu to the site of the Plavinska hydroelectric power station, at a distance of 56.5 km, the drop of the river in its natural state reached 40 m, on average 0.7 m/km. This large drop is due to geological structure beds.

Daugava near Selpils, 2000

In order to cross the Seli swell, the Daugava to the Staburags rock had to pass through the ancient valley of the waters of the East Latvian Lowland basin, which flowed into Lake Lielupe basin. Here the river cut deeply into the ancient valley. The shores, formed by dolomite rocks, rise to a height of up to 30 m.

This section was one of the most beautiful on the river. Beautiful views opened up from the cliffs of Olinkalns and Avotinkalns, from the ruins of Selpils, Altene and Koknese castles. The Liepavots spring, the Staburags and Krauklja rocks, the Krustalitsis bend, etc. were covered in historical memory and legends. The high banks were cut by deep erosional ravines, which formed impressive canyons and beautiful waterfalls on the tributaries (Perse River). In this area, the Daugava has several terraces, on the carbonate soils of which many interesting and rare plants grew.

Daugava in Altena, 2000

The width of the river in the area now occupied by the Plavina Reservoir ranged from 135-280 m, the depth at the rapids reached about 1, between them - 3-6 m; The current speeds on the rapids were 1.0-2.0, on the reaches, especially in the lower section, about 0.2-0.5 m/s.

Before the reservoir of the Plavinska HPP was filled, there was a whole line rapids, mainly in the upper part. The famous rapids were below the railway bridge, on the Jelgava - Krustpils road, where above the mouth of the river. Aiviekste began the 2.5-kilometer rapids section of Priedulais with a total drop of 5 m and with individual particularly fast sections, well mastered by raftsmen. They also gave names to the rapids. Priedulais consisted of rapids Lielgailu - Oli, Chuchia, rapids Greiza, Sten, Kukainiu - Oli, Latsis, Zala.

Directly below the mouth of Aiviekste in the Daugava channel, in a small area, a huge pool up to 8 m deep, the so-called Pagars, formed. Behind it, the depth of the river sharply decreased, and opposite the town of Plavinas there was one of the most grandiose rapids - the Roughe step rapids, or Plavinas Rumba with the Velna (Devil's) whirlpool and the Naras (Mermaid) rock.

Beyond Plavinyas began the rapids section of Bebruleya with separate rapids: Brodnya, Pechinya, Vilka, Dambis, Street. The Bebruleya section was followed by separate rapids and rapids: Vedzere, Sobachinya, Olinkrats, Aldiņu narrows, Kapu shoal. In this section, the drop was 10 m. Further, downstream, large rapids were Stuchkas-Grube, Lazdas-Galva, below the Staburags rock - Augshas-Puslis and Leyas-Puslis, the Aizelkshnu rapids, at the mouth of the river. Perse - the Perseus and Zvirbulya rapids, even lower - Radalka.

Daugava in Lielvārde, 2008

This is what the river looked like before the construction of the Plavinas hydroelectric power station. Now, from the Pirkazhu rapids to the hydroelectric dam, the ancient valley is filled with the waters of a reservoir with a calm surface, the normal level of which is 72 m above sea level. The high rocky shores have disappeared.

The place where the Perse River flows into the Daugava near Koknese, 2005

The depth has increased sharply: at Pļaviņas it is now about 10 m, near the Olinkalns cliff, which has now turned into a small island - about 20, at the Staburags rock, almost flooded - about 30, at the ruins of Koknese castle - almost 38 and at the hydroelectric dam - 42 m.

View of the ruins of Koknese Castle, 2008

Downstream, the width of the reservoir gradually increases. The Daugava in this area had high banks (up to 30 m), so flooding of large areas did not occur. The width of the reservoir varies in the upper reaches within 300-500 m, in the middle section - 400-800 m, in the lower reaches - about 1 km and only directly above the hydroelectric dam reaches 2 km.

River bank in Lielvārde, 2001

The depth and width of the reservoir varies somewhat over time due to the drawdown of the reservoir. Under intense conditions of power generation, the discharge occurs up to the mark of 70 m, i.e. 2 m. In such cases, in the area where the reservoir level pinches out, all the rapids of the Pirkazhu rapids come out of the backwater, and the fall along Saka Island becomes natural.

In the spring, before the ice drift, in order to prevent flooding of the town of Plavinas, it is necessary to carry out pre-flood drainage of the reservoir to the level of 67 m. Of course, in such cases, the depth of the reservoir decreases by 5 m, in some places its width decreases somewhat, and in the area where the reservoir level pinches out, the Priedulais rapids are exposed.

Below the Plavinas hydroelectric power station there is the next reservoir of the Daugava cascade - Kegumskoe (length - 42 km). Before the formation of the reservoir in this area, the river bed was constrained by relatively high dolomite banks, especially in the lower part. In the upper part, individual small rapids alternated with stretch areas. Here, above the town of Jaunelhava near the ruins of the Aizkraukle castle, there was the Chuibinyas rapids, above the village of Jumprava - the Winkelmanu rapids and below - the Kazhumates rapids.

Daugava near Aizkraukle Castle, 1999

The main decline was concentrated on the Kegums rapids, on which the hydroelectric power station was built. There were several large islands in this area. One of them, Ozolu, below Jaunelgava, survived even after the reservoir was filled. But the once inhabited islands of Lielvardes and Rembates, 5 km above the dam, are located several meters under water. A new island was formed near Jumprava.

Daugava beyond Jaunelgava, 2008

Due to the high banks and the fact that the level at the Kegums hydroelectric power station dam was raised only by 16 m, big lake not formed. Water has filled the valley cut into the dolomite, and the width of the reservoir, especially in its upper part, is only slightly greater than the natural width of the river. Thus, in the Jaunelgava - Jumprava section, the width of the reservoir is 250-450 m, below Jumprava it increases to 700-900 and near the dam it reaches 1500 m. The depth gradually increases from 8 m at Jaunelgava to 17 m at the dam.

Daugava in Ikskile, 1999

Below the hydroelectric station, the Daugava continues its path along the Central Latvian slope. The river bed here also cuts into dolomites, but the banks are much lower than in the previous section.

Before the reservoir of the Riga Hydroelectric Power Station was filled, there were sections of rapids in the river even lower, for example the Ogres and Slankaines rapids near the town of Ogre; Berkavas rapids near the village of Ikshkile; Aidukrace, Vedmeru-Kauls and Gluma-Kratse, or Reznas-Kauls, above the island of Dole.

The bed of the Daugava near the village of Ikskile during the release of water at the Riga Hydroelectric Power Station, 2008

The island of Dole divided the Daugava into two branches: Galvena - and Sausa-Daugava (left branch). The largest rapids in the Galvena-Daugava branch were Martyņa-Kauls, Livirgas, Lidakas-Kauls, Pendera-Kauls, Rumba, Nozums, Akyu-Kauls, in the Sausa-Daugava branch - Damba-Krane, Berzamentes-Kauls, Impes-Kauls, Kines- Kauls, Sterkelyu-Kauls, Kishu-Kauls, Doles-Augshkauls and Doles-Lejaskauls.

In the section of the river below the Kegums hydroelectric power station there were several inhabited islands: Ogres, Ikskiles, Macitaja, Dole, Martinya, Andreja, etc. The largest of them is Dole Island (length - 8.5, width - 2.4 km).

Dole Island and medieval settlements and castles in the near course of the Daugava. Photo from the Daugava Museum on the island. Dole, 2000

Before the flooding, in the area from the Kegums hydroelectric power station to the lower tip of Dole Island, the width of the river was already significantly greater than in the overlying area. On average it was approximately 400, and at the upper end of Dole Island it reached 700 m or more. The depth at the rapids was less than 1 m, and between them - 3 m or more. The fall along Dole Island exceeded 1 m/km.

Despite the fact that the dam of the Riga Hydroelectric Power Station increased the water level of its reservoir (length - 34 km) by approximately the same amount (16 m) as the dam of the Kegums Hydroelectric Power Station, the surface area of ​​the reservoir of the Riga Hydroelectric Power Station is 42.2 km2, i.e. 17.3 km2 is larger than the Kegums hydroelectric power station (length - 41 km). Already a few kilometers below the Kegums hydroelectric power station, near the mouth of the river. Lachupe, the width of the reservoir exceeds 2 km, then narrows in the area of ​​​​the town of Ogre to 0.5, but lower, near the village of Ikskile, in some places it reaches 2.5 km. Above Dole Island the reservoir is about 1 km wide, and above the dam the flooded upper part of Dole Island is about 4 km wide.

Dam of the island of St. Maynard in Ikskile, 2008

Since quite large areas of the banks were flooded, the depth of the reservoir is not the same. Along the former fairway of the river, it ranges from a few meters at the downstream of the Kegums hydroelectric power station to 17 m at the dam of the Riga hydroelectric power station. In those places where the width of the reservoir is large, the depth on the flooded floodplain and terraces is in some places insignificant.

Along the banks of the reservoir, quite large areas are protected from flooding by dams (the areas of Ogre, Ikskile, directly above the dam, etc.). If we compare all the reservoirs of the Daugava cascade by average width (the quotient of dividing the surface area by the length of the reservoir), it turns out that the Kegums and Plavins reservoirs have almost the same width - 607 and 612 m, respectively, and the reservoir of the Riga Hydroelectric Power Station is twice as large - 1241 m. Dam The Riga hydroelectric power station crosses Dole Island in the middle; below the Galvena and Sausa Daugava branches remained untouched.

View from Ikskile towards Salaspils at the moment of the release of the river waters at the Riga Hydroelectric Power Station, 2008

Below the island of Dole, the last section of the Daugava begins - the port of Riga. Here, on the coastal slopes, Devonian deposits - dolomites - are no longer found. The river flows through a sandy coastal lowland and is bounded by granite embankments.

Lead waters of the Daugava... View of the Port of Riga from under the Cable-stayed Bridge in 2007*

Before the construction of the port of Riga, when the banks were not strengthened, the channel changed its position several times. Old sections of the channel and branch have been preserved in some places. Back in 1967, when a powerful ice jam formed near the village of Salaspils, the waters of the river flowed along the old branch, which began between the islands of Martinu and Andreya, into Lake Jugla.

Martinsala Island is now here, under the waters of the Daugava, photo from 2008*

Now the small river Pikyurga flows into Lake Jugla along this old channel. Some of these old branches form islands in the area of ​​the port of Riga, for example, Zvirgzdu, Libiesu, Zaku, Lucavas, Kipsala, Kundzinsala, etc.

The island of Zakusala and the branches of the Daugava, 2006*

Remains of the old branches are preserved in Riga in the Pardaugava area near Arcadia Park, and on the right bank in the area of ​​the former hippodrome, as well as in the lower reaches (Vecdaugava), where a large fishing port was built.

View from the television tower on the island. Zaku towards the Old Town of Riga, 2006*

At the Kvadrat plant the river becomes wider and deeper. The width in the area up to the Riga bridges is about 600 m, below, near the cement plant, it decreases to 450, and even lower, near the Daugavgriva, it increases again to 700 m. The depth to the bridge area is about 6-7, and below, before it flows into the sea , - up to 12-15 m.

Some photos of Riga bridges:

Daugava near the Island Bridge, 2008*

Fragments of the Zheleznodorozhny and Kamenny bridges, 2008*

Cable-stayed bridge, 2005*

Information about the depths and difficult places for navigation on the Daugava is given in the research materials of 1886-1888. West Dvina inventory party under the command of engineer N.F. Shelyuta. They note that the upper and middle sections of the river are most suitable for navigation, but even here there are many obstacles to navigation. For the first 150 versts, shoals and sandbanks serve as obstacles to navigation, then rocks begin, of which there are especially many near the village of Krest. Near the village of Sekach, a stone ridge blocks almost the entire river; near the village of Rubi, 20 versts above Vitebsk, there are also many obstacles to navigation. From Vitebsk to the mouth of Ulla there are many shoals and stones; near the town of Disna there are rapids; near the town of Kraslavki (Kraslava) there are rapids, below there are shallows. Between Livenhof (Plavinas) and Jakobstadt (Jekabpils) - 16 rapids and 5 fences; from Friedrichstadt (Jaunelhava) to the island of Dalena (Dole) there are 9 rapids, near the island of Dalena there is the Bolvanets rapid. The 8 rapids of Kokenhusen (Koknese) are considered the largest; the drop on them reaches 1.35 fathoms per mile.

Steamboats on winter lay-up in the Gulf of Agenskalns, 2005*

A complete list of obstacles to navigation on the Daugava is given in Appendix 1.

In the materials of the party, the general picture of the longitudinal profile of the river is presented in the following form. From Vitebsk to Polotsk, over 145 versts along the highway, the longitudinal profile is a smooth straight line with small fractures, of which the largest is located below Beshenkovichi. The average slope of this entire section, related to the highway, is 0.00011, while the highest local slope of 5 versts below Beshenkovichi is 0.00018. Between the 145th and 180th versts the slopes are very insignificant: on average 0.000049; between the 180th and 185th versts (near the town of Disna) there is a rapids place - the Disnyanskie rapids with slopes from 0.0003 to 0.0006. From Disna to the city of Druya, for about 60 versts, there is a smooth surface line of water with a slope of 0.00005-0.00006.

From Druya ​​to the village of Stary Zamok (245-315th verst), the surface profile of the river is a very uneven line with a fall of 539 fathoms throughout this 70-verst section, and the slopes vary from 0.00045 (Krivets threshold) to 0.00003. From the 315th to the 399th verst, the longitudinal profile looks like a very smooth line with slopes of 0.00002-0.00004 and not higher than 0.00007. From the 399th verst to the mouth there is again a rapids section with slopes:

rapids Dubok and Klavki - 0.0004-0.00055; threshold Glinovets - 0.00156; rapids Skovoroda, Kosaya Golovka, Pechina and Mozolovy - 0.00166-0.0011; rapids Green Ruba and Tikhaya Ruba - 0.0022; Brodish threshold - 0.003; threshold Thinking - 0.0015; threshold Gusar - 0.00128; Keggum threshold - 0.00212; rapids Booblet and Skull - 0.00123. In other rapids the slopes are smaller and are usually 0.0004-0.0006.

It should be noted that since the 19th century. Toponymy underwent rather dramatic changes, the names of rapids, shoals, fences, as well as settlements along the river changed; This especially applies to the territory of Latvia. Some objects, mainly in the names of populated places, have disappeared, while many have reappeared. For example, according to N.F. Shelyuta, on the rapids section between Yakobstadt and the village of Adminan (419-424th versts) the rapids were named in turn: Vorozhya, Koleno, Gusak, Frying Pan; on the same section the fences had the following names: Oblique Head , Pechiny, Bekova Tin, Mozolova, Belyan and individual Vorobyi stones. Currently, the rapids area between the town of Jekabpils and the Admineni farm has common name the Pirkazhu rapids, which consist of the rapids Šariņas, Guskas, Pecinas, Greiza, Kanepaites, Ozolnicas, Udupa, Stirniņas and the Razbainieku shallows. As you can see, only the names of the rapids Guskas and Pecinyas have been preserved from the previous names in a slightly modified form, the rest are called differently.

The same thing with the rapids between 433 and 434 versts. Previously, they were called Popuski, Pike Head, Blednivets, Bear's Head, Green Ruba. Now this section has the common name of the Priedulais rapids. Some rapids are called Lielgailiu-Oli, Greiza, Siena, Kukainiu-Oli, Latsis, Zala. The Pike Head is called Chuchia, the Bear Head is Latsis, and the Green Ruba is Zala.

Similar changes are found in the names of other thresholds. In Fig. 1.10 shows the longitudinal profile of the Western Dvina - Daugava in current state, i.e., taking into account the constructed cascade of hydroelectric power stations. Appendix 2 provides a list of all tributaries of the Daugava and a description of the main ones.

Description of the Western Dvina River from source to mouth\\Western Dvina-Daugava. River and time. L.S. Anosova and others; under general ed. V.F.Loginov, G.Ya.Segal. - Minsk: Belarus. science, 2006. - 270 p.

The Western Dvina River is a waterway in the north of Eastern Europe. It flows through the territory of Latvia, Belarus and Russia. The ancient names of the river are Eridanus and Khesin. It originates in the Tver region. Here it gradually gains strength in order to rush through three countries and replenish it with its waters. In the Tver region, on the banks of the mentioned river in dense forests, there is a small town of the same name, which is, among other things, the center of the Zapadnodvinsk region.

Ancient city of Western Dvina (Tver region)

The history of this region goes back five thousand years. According to archaeological data, the first settlements here arose in the Neolithic era. An ancient Slavic settlement was discovered on the outskirts of the city, which allows us to make the assumption that even in ancient times, the water resources of the region were used by our ancestors as transport arteries and made these unique places attractive for people's lives. Life was never calm in these parts; local settlements were regularly attacked by Lithuanians coming from the Baltic Sea. As a result, only by the beginning of the fifteenth century local residents managed to recapture these lands and own them for 150 long years. However, during Livonian War(1558-1573) the struggle for these lands began again. At the first stage, Ivan the Terrible was forced to cede them to the Lithuanian prince Batory. However, by the end of this military conflict, the Western Dvina region was again included in the Moscow state. In the seventeenth century, Polish-Swedish invaders invaded here. It was only by the mid-nineteenth century that a trend of economic and social development emerged in the region.

Modern city of Western Dvina (Tver region)

During numerous wars, the ancient settlement was completely wiped off the face of the earth. And only in the twenties of the last century a village appeared here, and then the urban-type settlement of Western Dvina. The city arose ten years later thanks to a large logging plant built here. Today is administrative center Zapadnodvinsky district, Tver region. According to the 2010 census, its population is 10.2 thousand people. A tourist who accidentally gets here will not linger in this god-forsaken “resort town”, and there are a number of objective reasons for this. The only one interesting place there is a logging plant here, but no one will let you in there anyway, unless you get a job there, but only an extreme person is capable of this. However, this town also has its own attractions: the Museum of History and Local Lore, which is located in local school No. 1 on Kirova Street in house No. 16, active Orthodox Christian church Nicholas the Wonderworker (Shcherbakova Street, building No. 8), built quite recently - in 2008. Of the monuments of history, culture and archeology, only dilapidated churches and archaeological ensembles have survived: the churches of Sergius of Radonezh, the Holy Trinity, the Transfiguration of the Lord and Spasskaya. Perhaps these ruins are of some interest to historians or archaeologists, but they are unlikely to surprise an “advanced” traveler. The tourist infrastructure in the city is completely undeveloped; there are only two cafes with the colorful names “Vovan” and “Yuna”, as well as the restaurant “Dvina”. To be fair, it is worth noting that in this locality there is a ski resort “Mukhino”, but in the summer you will be bored and uninteresting there. As you can see, the assortment is very scarce, and this is understandable, because Western Dvina is an industrial town. But the area is of some interest to tourists. Excursions are organized here, allowing you to get acquainted with the most beautiful natural monuments: lakes Savinskoye and Vysochert, places where the Chilim water chestnut grows, listed in the Red Book, the ancient Nikopol park, where rare breeds trees, Veles swamp system. But in most cases, these regions attract lovers of water recreation and fishing. Which is not surprising, because the places here are famous. Not only is the nature very beautiful, but the Western Dvina River is also rich in rare species of fish.

Description of the water body

The Western Dvina has served as a transport route for people since ancient times. The ancient route “from the Varangians to the Greeks” ran along it, which was described in 1114-1116 in the famous “Tale of Bygone Years.” The source of the Western Dvina is Lake Koryakino. The river carries its stormy waters through hilly plains and lowlands left by the movement of an ancient glacier. The total length of this is 1020 kilometers. Every year it carries up to twenty cubic kilometers of water into the Baltic Sea. The basin's lake systems contain up to four more cubic kilometers fresh water. This region is very generously endowed with extraordinary attractiveness. Here they reign and cover a quarter of the basin's territory. In the upper reaches of the river, in forest areas, spruce predominates, and in the middle reaches - birch, aspen and alder. Pine forests mainly grow on the Polotsk Plain.

Geography of the river

On geographical map The Western Dvina attracts attention with the rich range of green colors in its pool. It is characterized by numerous lowlands that were once glacial lakes. Narrow sections of the valley, where the river passes through moraine ridges, show the places of their descent. One of the most extensive former lakes is the modern Polotsk Lowland. Its surface is almost flat or gently undulating, in places very swampy, it is composed of ribbon clays and sand. The river valley was formed about 12-13 thousand years ago; it has unformed features. On the territory of Belarus, the width of its channel is 100-300 meters; riffles and rapids are often found here. In some places the valley narrows and becomes canyon-like with a depth of up to fifty meters. But, entering the Baltic Plain, the Western Dvina turns into a deep river, its bed reaches 800 meters in width, and the valley reaches six kilometers.

Pool

The Western Dvina basin is formed by more than twelve thousand small and big rivers. The largest tributary is Mezha, its length is 259 kilometers, and its catchment area is 9080 square kilometers. Most of the tributaries flow from or originate from numerous lakes, thereby forming a very complex hydrographic system. The blue scattering of lakes in some places is united into groups: Ushachskie, Zarasaiskie, Braslavskie. The largest are Osveyskoye, Lukomskoye, Lubanskoye, Zhizhitskoye, Drisvyaty, Razna, Drivyaty. The total area of ​​the lakes exceeds two thousand square kilometers and reaches three percent of the area of ​​the entire river catchment.

Seasonal filling

The Western Dvina is a plain river, its main flow is formed as a result of melting snow cover, which accumulates in winter. This also explains the nature of the runoff distribution of this water artery during the whole year. The spring period is characterized by high water levels, abundant floods, which are accompanied by significant floods, as well as flooding of the floodplain; in addition, this is facilitated by rainy spring weather. By the beginning of summer, the Western Dvina begins to calm down, the waters return to the river bed, and by mid-June a significant decline in water is recorded. During the rest of the year, flow depends on precipitation and groundwater. In summer and autumn, when rainy weather sets in, the Western Dvina can even overflow its banks. In winter, the volume decreases noticeably; at this time the river level is at its lowest, because the basis of its nutrition is groundwater.

Dangerous River

However, you should not think that the life of the river during the winter low water period is so serene. Late autumn When the river is covered with ice, a sludge truck passes through it. As a result, various dangerous phenomena- zazhery. The riverbed in some sections can be completely clogged with slush, as a result the river level rises significantly, creating flooding and extensive spills upstream. A similar phenomenon can occur in spring, when the riverbed becomes clogged with ice.

People come and go, but the river flows...

For a long time, people have tried to tame the wayward river and adapt it for their economic purposes. Today, a whole cascade has been created on the Western Dvina, consisting of three large reservoirs. Its rich water resource used in hydro and heat energy, water supply, transport purposes, for recreation and fishing. These places are rich in monuments of ancient architecture, which are witnesses of many historical events. For example, the oldest Belarusian city - Polotsk - is decorated with the ancient St. Sophia Cathedral. This is an architectural monument of the eleventh century. Simeon of Polotsk and Georgy Skorina lived and worked in the same city, and Peter the Great stayed in one of the houses during the Swedish war. Another ancient city is Vitebsk (the most important shopping mall on the way “from the Varangians to the Greeks”) - has a thousand-year history.

Fishing on the Western Dvina

This unique corner of the Tver region attracts many tourists and fishing enthusiasts. Ecologically clean territory (this is confirmed by the medal All-Russian competition"Ecologically clean area") is replete with lakes with huge fisheries resources, which will not leave a single chance for an unsuccessful bite. The Western Dvina River is also unique, covered with forests that make up the main part natural resources region. On that water body lovers of chub fishing come together. After all, there is a lot of it on this river; there are even specimens up to three kilograms. Its large number is facilitated by the peculiarity of the river itself: riffles, shoals, islands and huge boulders abound here. All these places attract this fish like a magnet, especially the riffles. In spring and early summer, chub are caught in front of them, at the exit from the pits, and before late autumn- behind them, where the shallows turn into depth.

Don't you like this kind of fishing? The Western Dvina is also rich in other fish species, for example, pike and perch. Fans of spinning gear will get an indescribable feeling here. The fishing season begins at the end of May. At this time, the water level in the river drops noticeably, and near the coastal zone you can see high concentration medium-sized pike up to one and a half kilograms. It is caught on all types of bait, but prefers Perch; it bites perfectly on small “spinners” (No. 0-2). Mostly specimens weighing 400 grams are caught here. From the second half of summer until mid-October, pike weighing 2-3 kilograms, sometimes more, are caught.

The Western Dvina River flows through three countries - Belarus, Russia (Tver and Smolensk regions), Latvia, covering the territory (in the west) of the East European Plain.

The route from the Varangians to the Greeks passed along this river. The Western Dvina valley arose around 13-12 thousand years BC.

Source

The source of the river begins on the Valdai Hills in the swamps. Then it turns into Lake Coverage. Flows into the Gulf of Riga.

Characteristics

  • The length of the Western Dvina River is more than 1,020 km
  • basin area 87.9 thousand km 2
  • The width of the river in Belarus is 300 meters, and in Russia the channel widens to 800 meters, river valley– up to 6 km
  • climate - temperate
  • The river's feeding regime is mixed, mainly snow and soil
  • average annual precipitation 550-650mm

Western Dvina River on the map

River mode

The current is tortuous. At the very bottom, the Western Dvina is divided into several branches. The water flow is more than 670 square meters per second. The direction of the current changes from east to west, forming an arc. And then it turns south, taking a slightly curved direction.

At first the river flows like a small stream, and then near Vitebsk the width gradually becomes larger and reaches almost 100 meters. During periods of spring floods, the width of the river is 1.5 kilometers, so the Western Dvina floods many valleys located near the banks.

Polotsk Western Dvina River photo

Power comes from snow, spring floods, rain and groundwater. The current is fast, especially in warm weather; in winter and autumn it slows down somewhat.

Plants and fish

The banks are covered with deciduous and mixed forests, pine forests, between which there are agricultural lands and fields. The plains, which are often found in the Smolensk region, contain large wetlands. The dominant trees are alder, aspen, birch and pine.

There are few representatives of ichthyofauna in the waters of the river, since it is shallow, so ordinary river fish species are found. Most of them then go to the Baltic Sea. These are dace, pike perch, catfish, bleak, perch, roach, ide, ruff, etc.

Cities

The largest settlements are Polotsk, Disna, Vitebsk, Riga, Ogre, Ikskile, Kraslava, etc.

Vitebsk Western Dvina river photo

Tributaries

They are found throughout the river basin, the largest of which are:

  • Ushacha;
  • Kasplya;
  • Drissa;
  • Mezha.

In general, all tributaries are not deep and do not represent any special economic interest. Mezha is the largest tributary, the length of which is 259 kilometers, and it also begins to flow from the Valdai Hills. Veles also comes from there, the length of which is 114 kilometers.

Western Dvina river photo

Tourism on the river

The river is a center for fishing, kayaking and rafting. In addition, there are recreation centers along the banks, so in the summer you can relax on the river, swim in it, and wander through picturesque places.

  • The settlement of the territory near the Western Dvina began in the Mesolithic, i.e. between 10-6 millennia BC
  • At the very mouth of the river there is sun stone– amber.
  • In different historical periods, the river was called differently - Dune, Dina, Vina, Tanair. But already as the Dvina it is mentioned in the Tale of Bygone Years. The ancient Balts called the river Daugava - a lot of water.

The Western Dvina River (Belarusian: Zahodnyaya Dzvina, Dzvina, in Latvia - Daugava, Latvian: Daugava) belongs to the category of the great rivers of Europe. It flows through the territory of Russia (325 km), Belarus (328 km) and Latvia (367 km). The total length is 1020 km, the basin area is 87.9 thousand sq. km.

Got to the root

The source of the Western Dvina was finally found only in the 1970s. expedition of the magazine "Tourist" under the leadership of A.S. Popova.

Historical reference

The source of the Western Dvina is located in the Pyanishnik swamp on the Valdai Upland, near the Main European watershed separating the Baltic and Caspian slopes of the drainage, in the Penovsky district of the Tver region. It enters Lake Dvinets (Koryakino) as a stream and leaves it as a river several meters wide. After a few kilometers it flows into the flowing Lake Okhvat and, receiving the tributaries Volkota and Netesma, becomes a full-flowing river. The Western Dvina flows into the Gulf of Riga in the Baltic Sea.

The width of the Western Dvina behind Lake Okhvat is 15-20 m, the width of its valley is upper reaches- up to 0.9 km. In the section of the river between the cities of Andreapol and the Western Dvina, the width of the river increases to 50 m. Below the city of the Western Dvina, having overcome the rapids, the river reaches within the Western Dvina region major tributaries: Veles (left), Torop (right) and Mezha (left), after which it expands to 100 m. Beyond the mouth of Mezha, the Western Dvina leaves the Tver region.

Throughout history, the Western Dvina River had up to 14 names: Dina, Vina, Tanair, Turun, Rodan, Dune, Eridan, Western Dvina and others. The name “Dvina” was first mentioned by the chronicler monk Nestor at the beginning of the 12th century. in the chronicle “The Passage of Bygone Years.” At the beginning of the chronicle, he writes: “The Dnieper flowed from the Volkovsky forest and flowed at noon, and the Dvina from the same forest flowed at midnight and entered the Varangian Sea...” The etymology of the name Dvina (Latvian: Daugava ‘much water’) has not been definitively established. Some researchers consider the Finnish-language name to be primary, elevating it to “quiet, calm”, others attribute it to the Indo-European languages ​​with the meaning “river”, bringing it closer to the hydronyms Don, Dnieper, Dniester, Danube. In ancient times, a section of the route “from the Varangians to the Greeks” passed through the Upper and Middle Podvina.

The Western Dvina is attractive for fishing. It contains pike, perch, pike perch, catfish, chub, asp, burbot, ide, tench, dace, rudd, roach, bream, silver bream, bleak, crucian carp. This section of the Western Dvina flow is extremely attractive for water tourism. It is very picturesque, full of small rifts, rifts and rapids, but is not difficult for kayaking and is ideal for novice water tourists and family groups. There are many convenient parking places on the banks of the river.

How to get there

Above the city of Western Dvina, the river is crossed by the Moscow - Riga M9 highway. There are approaches to the shores every few kilometers, with the exception of the section between the mouths of the Toropa and Mezha, where there are few of them. In the Upper Podvina basin within the Western Dvina region - on the banks of its tributaries and lake shores - there are many beautiful places for relaxation and active species tourism.

The source of the Western Dvina River is located on the Valdai Hills in the Penovsky district of the Tver region at an altitude of 215 m, 2.1 km northwest of the village of Shcheverevo in the Penovsky district of the Tver region. The Anuchinsky stream flows from the southern part of the Koryakinsky swamp, which is the source of the Western Dvina.

After about five hundred meters it merges with the Koryakinsky stream, and after six hundred it flows into the small picturesque forest lake Koryakino (Dvinets), with an island in the middle. The Dvinets stream flows from its southeastern part. If you go downstream, then after four kilometers it will lead to the northern end of Lake Coverage (Aphoto). Having passed almost 10 kilometers through Okhvat, having absorbed the waters of the Netysma and Volkota rivers, the Western Dvina flows out of the lake already wide (10 - 15 meters).

In 2001, Penovo enthusiasts installed a log three-slope arch pavilion as a symbol of the fact that the Western Dvina carries its waters through the territory of three states - Russia, Belarus and Latvia. This is evidenced by three steps that lead along a wooden bridge, bordered by railings, to the pavilion.

Western Dvina (Belarus. Western Dzvina, in Latvia - Daugava, Latvian. Daugava, Latvian. Daugova, Liv. Vēna) is a river in the north of Eastern Europe, flowing through the territory of Russia, Belarus and Latvia. It is connected by the inactive Berezinskaya water system to the Dnieper River. Ancient names - Eridanus, Rudon, Bubo, Rubon, Sudon, Khesin.

The Western Dvina flows through Lake Okhvat, then flows first to the southwest, but after Vitebsk it turns to the northwest. The Western Dvina flows into the Gulf of Riga (Riga) of the Baltic Sea, forming an erosive delta at former island Mangalsala, which today is a peninsula, since the mouth of the second branch was filled in in 1567.

The length of the Western Dvina River is 1020 km: 325 km falls on Russian Federation, 328 - to Belarus and 367 - to Latvia. Basin 87,900 km², water flow 678 m³/s (at the mouth). The total fall of the river on the territory of Belarus is 38 m, the density of the river network is 0.45 km/km², and the lake content is 3%.

The river valley is trapezoidal in shape, deeply incised or featureless in places. The width of the valley in the upper reaches is up to 0.9 km, on average 1-1.5 km, in the lower reaches 5-6 km. The floodplain is predominantly two-sided. The channel is moderately winding, weakly branched, with rapids in places. Above Vitebsk, Devonian dolomites reach the surface and form rapids 12 km long.

The width of the Western Dvina River behind the lake Coverage is 15-20 meters, the banks are wooded, moderately steep sandy loam with boulders, low on the coastal plain. The bed is rocky, with individual rifts and small rapids.

On the Andreapol - Western Dvina section, the width of the river increases to 50 meters, and beyond the city of Western Dvina, having overcome another rapids section, the river receives large tributaries - Veles, Toropa and Mezha, after which it expands to 100 meters.

Behind the mouth of the Mezha there is a large trap intended for collecting timber rafted along the Mezha. Below the river, the river flows in high banks covered with mixed forest. The forest disappears in front of the city of Velizh. Beyond Velizh the river is navigable.

Between the Latgale and Augšzeme uplands, the Daugava flows through an ancient valley. Here the width of the Daugava reaches 200 meters. In the area from Kraslava to Daugavpils there is a natural park Daugavas loki (Bends of the Daugava). Passing Daugavpils, the Daugava reaches the East Latvian Lowland. Here the flow of the river slows down and the banks become low, because of this, during spring floods, ice jams often form in this area and water floods large areas.

From Jekabpils to Pļavinas the Daugava flows along steep banks with steep cliffs made of gray dolomite. The river valley from Pļaviņas to Ķegums was especially interesting and beautiful. There were many rapids and shallows in the riverbed. The shores were decorated with beautiful rocks Olinkalns, Avotinu-Kalns, Staburags. After the construction of the Plavinas hydroelectric power station, the water level increased by 40 m and the entire section of the ancient valley was flooded with the waters of the Plavinas reservoir.

From Jaunelgava to Ķegums the reservoir of the Ķegums hydroelectric power station extends, and at Salaspils the road to the river is blocked by the dam of the Riga hydroelectric power station.

Below Dole Island the river flows through the Primorskaya Lowland. Here its valley is formed by loose sediments Quaternary period. The river banks in this area are low, and the valley is filled with river sediments. Alluvial sand islands appear in the Riga area - Zakusala, Lucavsala, Kundzinsala, Kipsala, etc.

The width of the river at the Riga bridges is about 700 m, and in the Milgravis area it reaches 1.5 km. The depth of the river here is approximately 8-9 m. The average annual water flow is 678 m³/s. The concentration of a number of pollutants exceeds 10 MAC.

Observations on hydrological regime on the territory of Belarus have been systematically conducted since 1878 (16 posts). In 1983, the hydrological posts Surazh, Vitebsk, Ulla, Polotsk, and Verkhnedvinsk were in operation.

High water, low water. In 2015, on June 30 in Daugavpils (since 1876) and Jekabpils (since 1906) the highest low level rivers for the entire period of observation in these cities.

At the mouth of the Western Dvina you can find “tears of Heliad” - amber.

Throughout history, the Western Dvina River had about 14 names: Dina, Vina, Tanair, Turun, Rodan, Dune, Eridan, Western Dvina and others. Thus, in the 15th century, Gilbert de Lannoa notes that the Semigallian tribes called the Dvina Samegalzara (Semigals-Ara, that is, Semigallian water). In ancient times, the route “from the Varangians to the Greeks” passed along it.

The name “Dvina” was first mentioned by the monk-chronicler Nestor. At the beginning of his chronicle, he writes: “The Dnieper flowed from the Volkovsky forest and flowed at noon, and the Dvina from the same forest flowed at midnight and entered the Varangian Sea.”

According to V. A. Zhuchkevich, the hydronym Dvina is of Finnish-language origin with semantic meaning"quiet, calm."

The name “Daugava” was apparently formed from two ancient Baltic words, daug - “many, abundantly” and ava - “water”.
According to legend, Perkons ordered birds and animals to dig a river.

The settlement of the Western Dvina basin began in the Mesolithic era.

The main largest tributaries flowing into the Western Dvina are the following rivers: Volkota, Netesma, Velesa, Mezha, Kasplya, Ulla, Ushacha, Disna, Lautsesa, Ilukste, Kekavinya, Toropa, Luchosa, Obol, Polota, Drissa, Dubna, Aiviekste, Perse and Ogre .

Left tributaries of the Western Dvina (Daugava): Goryanka, Netsema, Fedyaevka, Velesa, Medveditsa, Fominka, Usoditsa, Mezha, Kasplya, Vitba, Krivinka, Ulla, Turovlyanka, Ushacha, Nacha, Disna, Volta, Meritsa, Druika, Lautse, Ilukste, Eglaine, Sala, Lautses,

Right tributaries of the Western Dvina (Daugava): Krivitsa, Volkota, Zhaberka, Gorodnya, Grustenka, Lososna, Okcha, Svetly, Toropa, Zhizhitsa, Dvinka, Stodolskaya, Oleska, Usvyacha, Luzhesyanka, Obol, Sosnitsa, Polota, Drissa, Uzhitsa, Saryanka, Rosica, Indrica, Liksna, Dubna, Nereta, Aiviekste, Perse, Brasla, Ogre.

On the banks of the Western Dvina River there are following cities: Andreapol, Western Dvina, Velizh, Vitebsk, Beshenkovichi, Polotsk, Novopolotsk, Disna, Verhnedvinsk, Druya, Kraslava, Daugavpils, Livany, Jekabpils, Plavinas, Aizkraukle, Jaunelgava, Lielvarde, Kegums, Ogre, Ikskile, Salaspils and Riga.

Hydroelectric power station.
Thanks to the Western Dvina hydroelectric power station built during the Soviet era, it is the only large own source energy for Latvia, giving the country up to 3 billion kWh per year.
The following hydroelectric power stations were built on the Western Dvina River:
- Plavinska HPP
- Riga HPP
- Kegums hydroelectric power station (built before Soviet rule - in 1939)
- The Polotsk and Vitebsk hydroelectric power stations are being built, agreements have been concluded on the construction of the Verkhnedvinskaya and Beshenkovichi hydroelectric power stations (all on the territory of Belarus). - - The construction of the Daugavpils hydroelectric power station was started, but suspended. The Jekabpils hydroelectric power station was designed. The river's unused potential exceeds 1 billion kWh per year.

Coordinates: 56°52′11″N 32°32′3″E