Iguanas are kept by many lovers of exotic reptiles, so it’s time to make sure that the pet lives comfortably. To do this, you will need a large terrarium: for iguanas up to 2 years old, 120x80x60 cm is enough; if the iguana is older than 2 years or its length with tail is more than 90 cm, you should give preference to a large terrarium - 200x200x150 cm. The optimal material for making the bottom, ceiling and walls of the terrarium - This is a dense and waterproof plywood. Unlike glass, it does not interfere with air exchange, but at the same time retains heat and humidity levels.
photo: Terrarium for keeping an iguana at home
The temperature should be maintained at 28-30 degrees during the daytime and 22 degrees at night. At night, a thermal mat, a heater like the “Good Warmth” or Night-Glo series lamps will really help you out. It is better to place the thermometer on the wall opposite the heating lamp. Naturally, it will be warmer under the lamp itself - which is what reptiles need. If you install shelters and branches in the terrarium on which the iguana will climb, make sure that the pet cannot reach the heating lamp (the distance should be at least 10-15 centimeters). At the same time, the temperature under the lamp should not exceed 38 degrees.
The humidity level is about 80% and can be achieved by placing a tray of water or sprinkling the liquid from time to time using a simple flower or ironing sprayer. If desired, you can equip the reptile’s “home” with a fountain. You can monitor the humidity level by purchasing a hygrometer - it can be found in any zoological store. At the same time, make sure that the terrarium does not turn into a swamp; high humidity promotes the development of pathogens and the iguana can get sick, so don’t overdo it.
It is worth installing a strong, massive branch not far from the heating lamp - this way the iguana will be able to find the most suitable for itself. comfortable temperature. If the reptile is cold, it will climb higher, and if it gets hot, it will go down to the ground. In order to support temperature regime in a small terrarium, a 60-watt mirror lamp is sufficient. The main thing is that the iguana cannot reach it, otherwise it will get burned. These reptiles are less sensitive to heat than, for example, chameleons, so they are injured after the fact, without even knowing what happened. If the area of the terrarium is large, then the lamps must be powerful.
Approximately a quarter of the volume of the terrarium should be occupied by a container of water - the iguana will be able to drink from it, and at the same time the water will evaporate, maintaining the humidity level. The water needs to be changed daily; a flat stone can be placed at the bottom of the terrarium - iguanas love to bask on the stones. Sometimes iguanas need to be bathed: if you bathe it in the bathtub, place a branch in the bathtub so that the reptile can get out of the water on its own. At this time, while the terrarium is empty, turn on the UV lamp - it is an excellent disinfectant. Plastic drinkers and the walls of the terrarium can be washed with soap; once a month you need to disinfect the terrarium using chemical solutions, in particular Betadine.
Important aspects of arranging a terrarium for an iguana
If you are setting up a terrarium, you can put a carpet on its bottom, similar to the rug that is placed in front of front door– not too hard, but solid.
But rugs woven or created by pouring plastic are not the best option, since they can crumble and lose their structure, as a result, fine particles may be swallowed by a reptile and cause illness. You can put oak bark on top of the mat, having previously doused it with boiling water, put a towel or absorbent napkins, but it is better to refuse newspapers - due to the humidity, printing ink will be released, and it is harmful to the health of the iguana.
You will simplify your task of cleaning the terrarium: it will be enough to wash the bark hot water, shake out the mat, change the napkins. The branches in the terrarium can also be oak - this is an excellent natural antiseptic.
Consider the issue of ventilation in the terrarium: you need to drill holes in the walls and cover them with mesh. It is worth remembering that iguanas are heat-loving pets, they do not tolerate drafts, so the ventilation openings should be located so that drafts do not circulate through the “home”. Do not make holes on opposite walls; it is better to have them located on one side.
In addition to the mirror heating lamp, you will also need a UV emitter. Several types of lamps are sold for terrariums. The best option– Repti-Glo (Hagen), starting at $10. They are fixed to the ceiling and covered with a large metal mesh. These lamps can be turned on for 10-12 hours along with heating lamps. It is worth remembering that all UV lamps are inserted into special fittings - these can be purchased in stores specializing in the sale of electrical goods. It is better to move the chokes outside the terrarium, as they emit an unpleasant hum. Most UV lamps have a limited service life (about six months on average), after which they continue to shine, but stop producing UV spectrum. Change the lamps promptly every 6 months.
You can also purchase night lighting lamps, heated mats, and leashes for the iguana for the terrarium.
It is worth remembering that if you want to breed iguanas, they mating season falls on June-September. The duration of pregnancy is 47-49 days; a week before laying eggs, the female begins to fuss and look for a suitable place to lay eggs. The average number of eggs is up to 50, the record clutch is 83 eggs. Incubation period lasts 59-85 days, it is necessary to maintain a constant temperature of 25-31 degrees, young individuals reach sexual maturity in 2.5-3 years.
How to bathe an iguana?
An iguana must be bathed. Before bringing your reptile in, warm the walls of the bathroom with hot water. The water temperature should be slightly higher than the conditions in the terrarium - about 30-35 degrees. It is best to bathe your pet 2 times a week, even more often during shedding. Duration of bathing is up to 30 minutes, monitor the water temperature. You need to put a piece of driftwood or a raft in the bathroom so that, if necessary, the reptile can get out and rest. Let her sit on the raft for a couple of minutes, and then carefully remove her and let her swim. If your pet sits on the raft for a long time, wash it warm water, don't let it freeze.
When the bathing procedure is completed, transfer the reptile to a warm terrarium, you can pat it dry with a towel. Bathing in the bath facilitates the molting process, allows the reptile to move intensively, and improves metabolic processes in the body.
Feeding the iguana
IN natural conditions Iguanas' food habitat is flowers and leaves. Unfortunately, in home terrarium It is difficult to choose a suitable diet so that reptiles receive all the necessary nutrients. Offer your iguana a choice of fruits and vegetables, as these pets often experience nutritional deficiencies. Both young and adult individuals need to be fed according to the same scheme:
- 30-70% of the diet should be deciduous plants, as well as vegetables;
- From 5 to 15% - fruits;
- Up to 10% – additional food products, for example, grain complexes.
Try to diversify your pet's diet; only food rich in minerals and vitamins will benefit the iguana. It is recommended to give the reptile grapes, turnips, parsley, green beans, dandelion, sweet Green pepper, peas, blackberries, radishes, leeks, pears, parsnips and other plants.
Handling the iguana
Many iguanas have a restive and even obstinate character; you need to take such pets from above near the forearm, clasping the body so that the reptile's front legs are pressed to the body. With your other hand, press it to your body hind legs, but don’t touch the tail. You can handle the iguana with gloves to avoid being scratched by its claws.
An iguana should not be grabbed by the tail; the reptile may throw it away. Of course, the iguana will not die, but it will be very difficult for it to maintain balance and climb branches. In adults, a new tail may never grow; in children, this process often happens faster. Do not squeeze the reptile, as this may cause the cloaca to prolapse, then no one except a qualified veterinarian will help the animal. When removing the iguana from the branches, do it carefully, smoothly, do not tear it off with force, otherwise you may damage your pet’s fingers and paws.
IN wildlife Iguanas feed exclusively on plant foods. Neither mature nor young individuals require animal protein. If offered for a pet, then the lizard will not refuse, it will even grow more intensively. But this is fraught with diseases gastrointestinal tract, impaired metabolism of bone tissue, kidney stone disease, which will subsequently affect the life expectancy of the reptile.
The iguana's stomach is not suitable for digesting and assimilating animal protein. Veterinarians around the world advise sticking to the diet that your pet usually finds in its natural environment. A lizard at home should receive calcium and phosphorus in a 2:1 ratio only from plant foods.
The most suitable food for an iguana consists of:
- 1. Green parts of plants:
- Dandelion.
- Beet tops.
- Mustards.
- Chicory.
- Clover.
- Alfalfa.
- Hibiscus.
- Mulberries.
- Prickly pear cactus without thorns.
- Rose petals and leaves.
- Nasturtiums.
- Tradescantia.
- Dahlia leaves and flowers.
2. Vegetables:
- Pumpkins.
- Zucchini.
- Cucumber.
- Tomato.
- Radish.
- Sweet pepper.
- Peas with tops.
- Green beans.
3. Berries and fruits:
- Rowan trees.
- Strawberries.
- Raspberries.
- Currants.
- Apples (seedless).
- Grush.
- Figs.
- Grapes.
- Watermelon.
- Melons.
- Mango.
- Avocado.
- Papayas.
- Prickly pear flowers and fruits.
- Bananas as a treat (in small quantities and rarely).
4. Croup:
- Oatmeal.
- Bran.
- Rice.
- Buckwheat.
Cereals are steamed without salt. As a supplement to plant foods, iguanas should be offered calcium, which is available in pet stores, along with their food. It is sprinkled with crushed food on mature individuals 1-2 times a week, and on young animals 3 times a week.
Some plant species are undesirable or harmful to the iguana's health:
- Iceberg lettuce (low nutritional value).
- Spinach (slows calcium absorption).
- Cabbage: white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi (prevents iodine absorption).
The hobby for the inhabitants of terrariums has become widespread relatively recently, but this fashion has very quickly spread throughout the world and now a terrarium inhabited by various living creatures can often be seen in an ordinary city apartment. Source:
One of the most popular inhabitants of the terrarium is the iguana. Ordinary or green iguana- real exotic! This American lizard, living in the tropics, in trees near rivers, reaches 2 meters in length and weighs more than 5 kg, has sharp claws, a powerful tail and a characteristic crest on its back from the back of the head to the middle of the tail. In the throat area there is a skin pouch that can swell. The color of young individuals is green; they darken with age.
Where to buy an iguana and how many years do iguanas live
The lifespan of an iguana is up to 15 years or more. Despite their great popularity among hobbyists, keeping “green dragons” is not as easy as it seems. Most lizards do not live even half their lives - mainly due to improper feeding and temperature conditions. Therefore, before you decide to buy this animal, think a hundred times whether you can ensure the correct maintenance of the tropical lizard. You will need a lot of time, effort and financial costs.
It is best to buy an iguana from a nursery or reptile lovers club that specializes in iguanas. There they will help you choose a pet and give recommendations on keeping it. If you buy a lizard in a store, carefully examine several babies and choose the healthiest one. Signs of a healthy iguana: the lizard is calm, but not inhibited, is not afraid of hands, it has clean, not sunken eyes without discharge, a thick tail, clean skin, there are no curvatures or swellings on the body. A three-month-old iguana is 15-18 cm long without a tail.
Terrarium for pet iguana
Before you bring your iguana home, you need to prepare its home. Glass terrariums with a volume of about 200 liters are considered the most convenient for a young iguana. After about a year, when your pet grows up, the home will need to be replaced with a freer enclosure with a volume of about 500 liters. Adult iguanas are usually given large terrariums made of wood with a glass front wall, but all-glass enclosures are also popular. It is not recommended to immediately plant a small lizard in a large terrarium. Source:
The top of the terrarium is covered with a stainless mesh with 10 mm cells, and ventilation holes of the same diameter are also made on the side. For heating, mirror incandescent lamps of different power are used for day and night heating. Or use ceramic heaters at night. For lighting, there should be a UV reptile lamp that is changed every 7 months. Without ultraviolet light, the iguana will not be able to absorb vitamin D and calcium, which is completely unacceptable. The lamps are covered with a grille.
 Caring for an iguana |
In nature, iguanas regulate their temperature with the help of the sun. Normal digestion of food occurs only at sufficient body temperature. Therefore, before eating, they bask in the sun for several hours.
In order for an iguana to develop normally, it must have a place to warm up. To do this, place a strong piece of driftwood under a mirror lamp on which the iguana can warm up. In this place the temperature should be 32-35º. There should also be a cool place in the terrarium where the lizard can cool down. This is usually the corner farthest from the lamp. There the temperature varies between 25-26º. At night, the terrarium should maintain a temperature in the range of 22-28º for adults, and for young animals not lower than 24º. In addition, the terrarium needs to be maintained high humidity, which is achieved by spraying the enclosure 1-2 times a day, having a reservoir in it, or using special devices for humidification. Temperature and humidity parameters that differ from those recommended can kill the iguana, so they must be observed. This is one of the most difficult issues in keeping an iguana. Be patient, as well as thermometers and a hygrometer and thermostat.
Because iguanas are tree lizards, then the terrarium must have comfortable driftwood. You can also place artificial plastic plants in it that will green up your pet’s home, rough shelves, thick ropes and a shelter the size of a lizard. You can use a plastic tray, bark, mats or undyed paper to cover the bottom. Bulk litter should not be used when keeping iguanas. Lizards can ingest particles of litter, which can cause blockages. Source:
A bathing container is placed in the terrarium, which is cleaned and filled with fresh water daily. It is very useful to spray the “dragon” itself with warm water (about 30º). Particularly favorable water treatments during the molting period. Lack of moisture makes shedding very difficult and leads to skin damage.
Iguana care, feeding and taming
Every day, leftover food and feces are removed, and once a week the terrarium is completely cleaned, because... heat and create humidity favorable conditions for the development of bacteria.
A few days after purchase, your iguana will adapt. At this time, provide her with the most calm environment possible, because the lizard is in a stressful situation. You should not once again approach the terrarium, make noise, and especially not try to pick it up. At first, complete rest, you will get used to it when the iguana gets used to you.
The iguana is fed daily, in the morning after it has warmed its body under the lamp. Uneaten food is removed after 3-4 hours so that it does not turn sour. Pure water must be available for drinking at all times.
Feeding is not particularly difficult, especially after the pains of arranging the terrarium. There are only two rules here: plant food and sufficient intake of calcium and phosphorus into the body.
Since iguanas are vegetarians, they do not need animal food. The basis of the diet is vegetables and herbs, as well as fruits and a small amount of grain. Almost all vegetables are suitable for creating a diet; you need to be careful with beets, cabbage, spinach, and celery. Turnips, dandelions, legumes, pears, carrots, etc. are well eaten. The main thing is that the diet is varied. Vegetables and fruits are usually grated. Cereals can be fed boiled rice, buckwheat, oatmeal, bran, sprouted grains.
Pets are different: some love affectionate and graceful cats, someone likes the devotion and loyalty of dogs. Many people like to watch for hours underwater inhabitants or listen to the sonorous voices of birds. And exotic lovers prefer the company of reptiles, one of which is our today’s heroine - the common green iguana.
Habitat
The species Iguana-iguana belongs to the genus True iguanas of the Iguana family. This homeland is Mexico, from where the species spread and today is widely represented in the territory of South and Central America, it was also brought to Florida.
The common iguana prefers to live in tropical rainforests and dense thickets on the banks of rivers. This woody look reptiles, and therefore they spend most of their lives in trees.
Common iguana: description
Today, this lizard can increasingly be seen in home terrariums. The common iguana (you can see the photo in the article) is a large animal. An adult reaches a length of 1.5 meters (including tail), although true giants are often found - up to two meters or more. The size of the lizard depends on age and sex: males are much larger than females. What does the common green iguana look like? Photos published in various publications for naturalists demonstrate how diverse the representatives of this species are.
Some individuals have thickened skin projections located on the upper part of the nose. They can be small, barely noticeable, and can reach huge size. Some lizards may have several such “horns”. The diversity of the species is also manifested in the color of these lizards. Although they are called green, they are not always green. The common iguana can be colored in a wide variety of shades of green: from rich to very light. Interspersed with various shades of blue are allowed.
In nature there are also rare representatives species, with a color that differs from most animals of this species.
Brown iguanas
This is a common iguana, the description of which in reference books confirms that this lizard can be tan, brown or cream in color. Sometimes this shade may be unnatural, but caused by stress or illness of the animal.
Blue lizards
This common iguana comes from Peru. Saturated turquoise skin distinguishes these lizards. The irises of such individuals are usually reddish-brown. Thin black stripes run throughout the body, tail, and in the folds of the skin.
Even very young ordinary animals can have a blue color, but with age it changes to green.
Red morph
This color does not exist in nature: it is obtained artificially. The common red morph iguana acquires this skin color due to its feeding habits. Animals are fed pigmented natural fruits and vegetables - red bell pepper, for example, or artificially pigmented fish food (for parrot fish). Naturally, these products do not replace the main diet, but are only additives.
Don't be alarmed if your common iguana changes color at home. These lizards change it throughout their lives, and this depends on their condition and conditions of detention. Young animals change color during molting; adults can change color under the influence of temperatures: if the animal is cold, its color darkens, and in the heat it turns pale. Most males change their color several months before mating season. Wave-like bright stripes appear on their body orange color at the chin, on the body and paws, on the spines.
But if your pet's color turns dark grey, dark brown, yellow or black, you need to consult a specialist to identify the reasons for this change, as in most cases it can be a sign of illness or disease in the animal. unfavorable conditions content. At good care For this reptile, its life expectancy is on average up to 12 years, although there are also centenarians who live up to 18 years.
Lifestyle
The common iguana is a diurnal animal. It is active in the morning and evening (before sunset). At this time, under natural conditions, the lizard climbs trees, where it happily basks in the sun. This is necessary for reptiles to produce vitamin D and thermoregulation.
The common iguana is not only an excellent tree climber, it is also a first-class swimmer. It is water that saves the lizard in case of danger. If the conditions for keeping the green iguana are observed, the owner will be surprised by the calm and docile nature of the unusual pet.
A young lizard can be tamed by frequently picking it up: it quickly gets used to this and becomes tame.
It would seem that you can immediately purchase a more spacious terrarium, but experts believe that in a smaller volume the young lizard feels more confident and protected. In such conditions, it will be much easier to tame her.
For adult the terrarium must be spacious so that the animal not only fits completely in it, but also leaves room for a pool, which is vital for green iguanas. Minimum size for an adult - 80x70x120 cm.
Decoration of the terrarium
According to experienced owners, the best option for covering the floor of a terrarium is a rubber lawn mat. It will not only give a more attractive appearance, but will also allow you to keep the lizard’s house clean: it will not harbor microorganisms that can harm the health of your pet. Before placing such a mat, it should be washed and ventilated well so that the reptile is not irritated by foreign odors.
A spacious pool will also be required, since it is in the water that the reptile defecates. For this reason, the water must be cleaned and changed regularly. Comfortable lighting for a green iguana is considered to be a daylight period of at least twelve hours. Try to imitate circadian rhythms. In this case, the reptile will feel more comfortable in captivity.
A prerequisite for home care iguanas - Fluorescent Lamp with UVB emitter. This simple device will help the lizard produce the vitamin D it needs. In warm and sunny days the terrarium can be taken outside so that the lizard can enjoy natural sunlight. But at the same time, direct rays should not fall on it, since the glass will become very hot and change the microclimate of the terrarium.
Temperature
For the green iguana, a multi-level temperature regime is very important. This is due to the fact that reptiles are cold-blooded. General temperature in the terrarium it should not fall below +28 °C, at the warming up point this figure increases to +35 °C, and at night it can drop to +20 °C. The lamp at the heating point should be placed at a safe distance (20 cm) above the top branch in the terrarium. The water temperature in the pool is not higher than +25 °C.
Humidity
Like most tropical animals, iguanas require at least 80% humidity. To achieve this level, you can place an aquarium heater (previously well insulated) in the pool: it will maintain the required water temperature and create evaporation, which will help maintain humidity. In addition, you should spray the terrarium with warm water three times a day.
Feeding
The green iguana eats dandelion leaves, clover, lettuce, and loves various fruits. He has a cooler attitude towards vegetables, although this largely depends on your lizard's taste preferences. It is not recommended to give your exotic pet cabbage. It is advisable to add sprouted mung bean, especially when feeding offspring, as it is rich in protein.
While the lizard is young, it can be pampered with insects (in small quantities). Crickets and zofobas are suitable for this. A salad that is 70% leafy greens and the remaining 30% is chopped vegetables and fruits is something your common iguana will happily eat. Nutrition in the life of this reptile has great importance, but don’t forget about vitamins: they should be given twice a week. Place a feeder with crushed shells or eggshells in the terrarium: such a treat will become a source of calcium.
Common iguana: reproduction
Green iguanas reach sexual maturity between one and a half to three years of age. You will know that the mating season is approaching by the changed color. For males, the mating season lasts about a month, and for females no more than ten days.
After mating, the female carries the eggs for two months and then lays eggs. It is advisable to transplant the females into a separate terrarium during this period. The clutch consists of 40 or more eggs. It is removed and transferred to an incubator with a temperature of +32 °C. After 90 days, babies are born. During the period of gestation, the female needs large quantities calcium and protein foods.
Green iguana or common iguana (lat. Iguana iguana) This large lizard from the iguana family, feeding on vegetation and leading wood image life. Despite its size, lizard lovers often keep green iguanas at home.
The common iguana lives throughout tropical and subtropical northern and South America. Mexico can be called its homeland, and further south, through Central America to Paraguay and Argentina. They were also brought to southern Florida, where they took root.
There are differences in appearance, depending on the habitat. The iguana living in South America is called Iguana iguana iguana, and tolerates cold weather much worse, unlike the iguana living in Central America - Iguana iguana rhinolopha. Some iguanas from Central America have horns on their faces, which can be either barely noticeable or reach 3-4 cm in length. All subspecies are now combined into one species: Iguana iguana.
Habitat: wet rainforests, thickets along the rivers. Most They spend time in trees; when in danger they can jump into the water.
Size and lifespan
Large lizards, can reach maximum size 1.5 meters in length, and weigh more than 9 kg. Moreover, males are larger than females, which rarely reach a size of 130 cm. Also, a sexually mature male green iguana has a larger crest on its back.
With good care, a domestic green iguana can live 15 to 20 years in captivity.
Keeping an iguana at home is quite difficult if you live in ordinary apartment. A terrarium with a volume of 200 liters is enough for a baby or teenager green iguana up to 45 cm long. However, this volume is enough for acclimatization, since if you immediately put the baby in a huge terrarium, it will not be easy for him to find food and water. It is also easier to tame a lizard, so a small terrarium at the initial stage is better than a spacious one.
But an adult green iguana needs a VERY spacious terrarium. This graceful baby will grow very quickly and can grow into a 1.5 meter dinosaur, which an ordinary fan simply has nowhere to keep.
An adult domestic green iguana does not need a terrarium, but an enclosure. At least 3.5 meters long, 1.8 wide and high. The height of 1.8 meters is very important, since in nature they mainly live in trees. A simple rule: the enclosure must be at least twice as long as the iguana, and the width must be no less than its length. In addition, do not forget that you cannot keep two male green iguanas in the same enclosure, otherwise they will fight.
Substrate
It is best not to use a substrate, or use a large fraction. The fact is that iguanas, while feeding, can swallow part of the soil and die because of this. This is especially true for children. If you notice that during the hunt they grab soil, it is better to remove it from the terrarium.
Lighting and heating
Green iguanas need a very warm climate and the same conditions need to be recreated at home. For juveniles, one heating llama is enough, but for adult iguanas, there are at least six llamas so that it can warm its entire body. In addition, UV lamps must be used in conjunction with heating lamps. Ultraviolet lighting is necessary for the lizard to produce vitamin D and absorb calcium. Otherwise, it will lead to diseases and deformation of the skeleton. The Repti Glo 5.0 lamp from Exo-Terra works well.
There should be a heating point in the enclosure, with a temperature of at least 40 C. The heat source should be located above the iguana, this will help the iguana regulate its body temperature. The fact is that the common iguana has a “third eye” organ on the top of its head, behind the eyes, which is responsible for controlling movement, changes in light and darkness. It is needed for two purposes - to respond to danger (from above, birds of prey) and to regulate body temperature.
Of course, part of the enclosure should be cool so that the common iguana at home can choose places with higher and lower temperatures. A warm corner with a temperature of about 40 degrees and a cool corner with 27 degrees. It is very important that she can regulate her body temperature herself by moving between these places. And given its size, the terrarium must be appropriate.
Do not use any heating sources that heat from below. This could include rugs, stones and heated decor. The fact is that the iguana does not recognize them as a heating point, and gets overheated and burns. The paws and stomach are especially affected, leading to the death of the lizard.
Water
Water must always be available. Remember that small iguanas may not recognize the water bowl. So they need to be sprayed daily and bathed twice a week to make sure they don't suffer from dehydration. If you already have a teenager, then spraying him will also not be harmful, just like bathing him. For adult individuals, if possible, you should place a pond of a size in which they can swim. In nature, green iguanas live near water and are excellent swimmers.
Feeding
Green iguanas are exclusively herbivores; in nature, they eat vegetation and tree fruits. At home, they eat dandelions, zucchini, cucumbers, turnips, cabbage, and lettuce. Fruits can be given no more than once a week, as heavy feeding causes diarrhea.
Preparing food for small iguanas is a little different than feeding adults. When you cut food, you need to chop it into pieces that they can swallow without problems. remember, that common iguanas They do not chew food, but swallow it whole.
Except plant feed, you can also feed commercial ones, which provide the lizards with everything they need. Their disadvantage is the price, whatever one may say, and ordinary greens are cheaper.
It is imperative to give calcium supplements about once a week. And under no circumstances should green iguanas be fed protein foods! This will lead to the death of the lizard.
Appeal
Young green iguanas do not usually bite, but avoid excessive interaction until they become accustomed to their new home. They can make smart pets, unlike snakes and other reptiles. The fact is that iguanas recognize their owners and show individuality with them.
But, don't buy iguanas on impulse! The babies are cute looking, small and people buy them as a toy. And then they grow and problems begin, since this is a living and rather specific creature. If you have read this article and still want an iguana, then there is a high probability that you will be able to keep one successfully.
Jan 21, 2015 admin
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