How to remove brown algae from an aquarium. Ways to combat diatoms. Brown algae in the aquarium: the reasons for the appearance

The issue of algal outbreaks in the aquarium periodically torments both beginners and pros of aquarium craft. And all why? Because these unwanted guests can appear both in the "young" and "in the old" reservoir.
An experienced aquarist will immediately notice unwanted algae and, knowing roughly its name or genus, will quickly neutralize it, preventing an outbreak. But beginners have a hard time!

The situation is aggravated by the variety of information on the issue of algae control. Some say: keep the aquarium in the dark, others, on the contrary, increase daylight hours! Some say: this is an overdose of fertilizers in the aquarium, while others, on the contrary, is that you have little macro fertilizers, etc.

Let's figure out what's wrong with the aquarium ?! How to deal with it! Let's debunk the legends and myths about algae.

What is aquarium algae?

Many beginners call aquarium plants algae, and vice versa, plants call algae! This is a fundamentally misunderstanding of the essence of plant nature.
Aquarium plants- these are the highest of the plant world. In the aquarium, these are the same plants as in the field or on the lawn near the house. This is a biological kingdom, one of the main groups of multicellular organisms, including, but not limited to, mosses, ferns, horsetails, moss, etc.
Seaweed are inferior. A heterogeneous ecological group of predominantly phototrophic unicellular, colonial or multicellular organisms, usually living in an aquatic environment, systematically representing a collection of many departments. Entering into symbiosis with fungi, these organisms in the course of evolution have formed completely new organisms - lichens.

Having differentiated these two concepts, we have decided with whom specifically we need to fight. Our aquarium enemy - algae, the lowest of the plant world!

Methods for dealing with and getting rid of aquarium algae

At the dawn of the formation of our site, a simple article was written: FLYING ON THE WALLS OF THE AQUARIUM AND STONES. Time passed, and to our surprise, even such a short article gained popularity! Yes, and on forum, the guys often ask for help in the fight against these nasty "raids".
Well, probably it's time to paint everything on the shelves!

So, here are the basic and effective methods of dealing with green, brown, brown, black, blue-green bloom-algae.

1. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO DETERMINE WHAT THIS IS A FLIGHT, WHAT IS AN ALGAE!
Like plants, there are a large number of algae, as well as their species and subspecies. Of course, it is not possible to know all of them, but you need to know the group, the genus of these algae! The effectiveness of the struggle and the actions that need to be taken depend on this.
This is where all the confusion in the advice on the forums lies: turn off the lights, turn on the lights ... Everyone has different algae outbreaks, different aquariums, different lighting, water and aquatic organisms.
Below, in this article, the main and most common algae in the aquarium and the specifics of dealing with them will be described.

2. AQUARIUM BIOBALANCE IS OUR ALL!
The root cause of any aquarium trouble is the absence or violation of biobalance in the aquarium, that is, the mutual balance of all aquatic organisms (fish, plants, molluscs, algae, fungi, bacteria, etc.).
You will be surprised, but in the aquarium there are always, constantly spores of various algae, as well as bacteria and fungi! All of them perform their function, for example, to cleanse the aquarium from dead organic matter, remove poisons from the aquarium (ammonium, nitrites and nitrates), etc. In other words, the aquarium is not sterile - it is a living organism, from various groups, colonies of living organisms visible and invisible to humans.

An algal outbreak is visual evidence of an imbalance (lack) of biobalance in the aquarium. This is the loss of any link in the balance!

Having found out which link dropped out, you need to put it back in place. What is difficult for a beginner to do!

Here are the main reasons for the loss of the biobalance link:

- excessive daylight hours in the aquarium or the wrong aquarium lighting mode. Accordingly, you need to reduce or adjust daylight hours. Or altogether, if possible, turn off the lights for a couple of days as a preventive measure.

- lack of daylight or using “wrong” lamps with “wrong” spectrum. Accordingly, it is necessary to increase daylight hours or remove lamps with "bad" spectrum and buy lamps of the required spectrum or buy additional lamps of the missing spectrum. More details Aquarium lighting and lamp selection and DIY aquarium lighting. This point, for example, is relevant for diatoms that appear in "young aquariums" and which do not like intense lighting.

- the presence of an excess of dead organic matter and dirt in the aquarium(dead plants, fish, food residues, waste products of aquatic organisms, etc.). Simply put, the aquarium does not have time to cope with so much "garbage" and the only way out for our beloved, live aquarium is to call for the help of algae, which will happily devour all this byaka.
Accordingly, you need to remove all the "garbage": siphon the bottom of the aquarium, clean the walls, decor and equipment, mechanically try to remove algae, as well as make more frequent and more complete water changes for fresh water, in the end, you can fill the filter compartment with aquarium charcoal ...

The next reason follows from the above and is a disastrous continuation of the accumulation of "dirt" in the aquarium. All dead organic matter is decomposed by beneficial bacteria and fungi and removed from the aquarium. If there is a lot of this dead organic matter and it accumulates, microorganisms do not have time to process it! Poisons begin to accumulate in the aquarium - decomposition products: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, which leads not only to the appearance of algae, but generally destroys all living things in the aquarium.
In addition to the above measures for thorough cleaning of the aquarium, you need to use aquarium preparations that either absorb poisons or contribute to an increase in the colony of beneficial nitrifying bacteria, for example:

A) Zeolite. Sold in pet stores or other places. A mixture of zeolite and coal is ubiquitous Fluval Zeo-Carb.
On a note: you need to know that aquarium charcoal is not effective against poisons and only ion exchange resin - zeolite removes them.
B) Preparations biostarters, as well as preparations promoting the growth of colonies of beneficial bacteria. Simply put, these are drugs that contain the very bacteria that decompose poisons. There are a lot of such drugs, for example, popular: - bacteria colony,Tetra NitratMinus, Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls - these drugs to nourish beneficial bacteria and others.

3. A large number of plants in the aquarium. No one has yet scientifically proven that plants suppress algae, but the fact remains - in an aquarium with live aquarium plants (1/2, 2/3), there are no algal outbreaks, except that sometimes green dots appear, and then from strong lighting.
Therefore, if you have the opportunity to provide plants with proper care: LIGHT, CO2, UDO- be sure to plant the beds!

4. There are useful fish that fight - eat algae and algal bloom:
A) Siamese algae eaters- tireless workers of the aquarium, sometimes it seems that the only meaning of their life is an unquenchable desire to kiss all the plants and all the stones, and walk through all the aquarium decorations. They can also be found under the abbreviation SAE, which stands for Siamese Algae Eater and translates as Siamese algae eaters. There are also KAE and IAE - Chinese and Indian algae eaters. Effective against algae "black beard", "thread" and "deer horns" others.
B) Otozinklus- no less effective fish. Thanks to the structure of their mouth, they carefully and well remove algae from plants, decor and walls. Copes with green, brown (diatoms), etc.
C) Ancistrus- are also useful. But, unlike the aforementioned fish, adults of ancistrus are lazy. And they say that in addition to algae, they also eat plants.
G) A good helper in the fight against algae, the whole family also applies pecilia- guppies, swordtails, mollies, platies and others.
E) All possible shellfish- apularia, coils, fiza, marize, etc.

E) Aman's shrimp. They help in the fight against filamentous tissue.

Note that you can rely on the help of these fish, but not hope.

5. And finally, aquarium preparations that suppress algae will come to the rescue. Pet stores sell a lot of such drugs, as a rule, in their name they contain the word "Algo" (algae), for example, .

These drugs should be used carefully, wisely and according to instructions. We recommend Tetra products, as their preparations contain monolinuron, which has a milder, gentle effect. When used correctly, taking into account all the circumstances in the aquarium, Tetra preparations do not have a negative effect on fish and plants. More details.

Another and rather extensive group of algae preparations contains glutaraldehyde, an algaecide of a more powerful action. It can be used in advanced cases or, for example, in dense herbalists. In general, in practice, it has been noticed that if the aquarium is just with fish, then it is better to use Tetra and monolinuron. And if we are talking about a herbalist - an aquarium with plants, then preparations based on glutaraldehyde behave perfectly and are effective. There are a lot of such drugs, including those from domestic brands. Of all the variety, we can recommend a drug for algae from the Medos company VladOx - glutaraldehyde, at an adequate price! You can learn more about this drug.

So, we examined the main causes of algae in the aquarium, as well as sorted out the main methods of dealing with them. Finally, it should be noted that, as a rule, "algal trouble comes in a complex", in connection with which it is necessary to deal with it in a complex, ie. not one method, but several at once, or even all at once.

Algae in the aquarium - know the enemy by sight!

Types of aquarium algae with photo

As mentioned earlier, there are a lot of varieties of algae. There are more than thirty thousand species of them! Below you will find the most common algae, the reasons for their appearance in the aquarium and the individual characteristics of solving problems with them.

But, first the classification. Due to the abundance of algal mass, they were simply divided according to the color of the thallus (thallus) into:

- Diatoms - Diatomeae;
- Brown algae - Phaeophceae;
- Green algae - Chlorophceae;
- Yellow-green algae - Xantophceae;
- Red algae - Rhodophceae;
- Golden algae - Chrysophceae;
- Blue-green algae - Cynophceae;

They include the following "popular algal pests":

Brown or diatoms

(brown plaque on the walls, soil, stones of the aquarium)

photo of brown, brown algae in the aquarium

These are the simplest and, if I may say so, harmless algae. They are placed at the very top of the list, as they often appear in newcomers - in young aquariums. The first reason for their appearance is the lack of lighting, the second is the lack of biobalance - tuned in young aquariums.
As soon as the young aquarium is set up or lighting is added, the diatoms will disappear on their own. They can be removed mechanically and with the help of snails.

Red algae or black algae

Vietnamese seaweed or antlers

photo of aquarium seaweed flip flops

They probably write about this algae on everyone! And all the same, the ranks of unhappy owners of this infection in their aquarium, everything is replenished and replenished.
This alga is very tenacious and difficult to hatch. Its appearance speaks primarily of the high content of dead organic matter in the aquarium, which it feeds on.
The methods of struggle are usual: we carefully remove everything, the siphonym soil - we remove organic matter. We put coal and zeolite in the filter, make frequent water changes (up to 50% per week), and also use algicides and algae eaters.

Algae black beard

photo algae black beard

Many people confuse her with "Vietnamese", because it is similar and has the same reasons for its appearance. As a rule, it appears in "young aquariums". The withdrawal methods are the same.

Filamentous algae (popularly - filamentous)

Algae Edogonium

photo of thread in the aquarium

This is the most common type of filamentous algae that attacks the aquarium. At first it looks like a green fluff, then like long green threads. If they occur, it is recommended to apply the above methods of struggle. And also in the literature it is noted that this alga appears due to a lack of macro elements. Surprisingly, in particular, phosphates and nitrates (which all excrete). A positive effect is noted when they are added. In advanced cases, algicide-containing drugs are used.

Cladophorus (popularly - the thread of the cladophorus)

It has ramifications and no long strings. As a rule, it appears in aquariums with poor filtration, poor water flow and stagnation zones, where it “blooms”.
You can get rid of it by eliminating negative factors, mechanically (by hand) and algicide.

Spirogyra

This algae is very nasty, not only because it is slimy and green, but also because it grows exponentially. It is difficult to withdraw - neither algicide nor SAE will help. It is difficult, but you can defeat it mechanically: we collect it with our hands, rubbing with our fingers (it is fragile), siphoning from the bottom. As additional control measures, it helps: turn off the lights, fish and shrimp are algae.

Rizoclonium

It can also be attributed to filamentous algae, because has a filamentous structure. As a rule, it appears in young aquariums, where the biobalance has not yet been adjusted, which can be called the nitrogen cycle. This is not such a scary alga! It actually disappears after the establishment / restoration of biobalance in the aquarium. Applicable to her, all general methods of struggle are effective. Most effective: water change and algicide.

Ksenokokus - green plaque on the walls of the aquarium

Everyone, both beginners and pros, encounters this algae. It appears from excess lighting or an incorrect daylight regime. In this case, the biomass of plants does not play a role. It appears in aquariums with lush vegetation as well as in a three-bud aquarium.
Recommendations for combating xenocrocus (the correct name is colekheta) are general: reduce, adjust daylight hours, algicide, mechanical cleaning, fish and shellfish helpers, frequent water changes.

Blue-green algae

photo of blue-green algae in the aquarium

These are rare guests of our aquariums. But nevertheless, you need to know them. They are formed at the tips of plants or the tops of the decor. Unlike other algae, blue-green is a colony of bacteria, while very toxic (they release toxins into the water).
Well, since these are bacteria, you can get rid of them with the help of human antibiotics and septic tanks or antibacterial aquarium drugs, for example, Sera Baktopur... If you do not want to poison the aquarium with harsh chemicals and antibiotics, you can use it locally hydrogen peroxide in the right doses.

That's all! We wish you success and a permanently stable aquarium!

With such a problem as algae in the aquarium, not one hundred or even a thousand avid aquarists fought, and all of them were defeated. Thus, this problem is eternal and only significant efforts allow to control the reproduction of small unicellular organisms that periodically occupy the underwater kingdom artificially recreated in the house. However, you should never leave everything as it is, since algae on the walls of the aquarium not only significantly worsen its appearance, but also significantly harm its inhabitants.

In some cases, the rapid multiplication of unicellular organisms causes the death of both existing plants and fish with snails. There are many ways to reduce the concentration of certain microscopic algae in the aquarium, so you need to start solving the problem as soon as possible. In addition, there are a number of recommendations that will reduce the risk of a rapid increase in the number of such organisms.

The main reasons for the appearance of algae in the aquarium

It is not difficult to understand why many fans of creating artificial underwater worlds in the house often face such a problem. In fact, all types of aquarium algae are widespread in nature and, despite all precautions, can enter the home "pond" with liquid, equipment, plants, stones, accessories and even basic inhabitants, that is, fish, snails and other creatures.

Thus, the reasons for the introduction of these microorganisms lie not at all in the negligence of the owners of such an artificial corner of the wild, because it is almost impossible to prevent this. However, the explosive bloom of aquarium algae is in some way the result of human activity.

First of all, the reasons for the increase in the number of such microscopic organisms lie in the creation of favorable conditions for them. Sufficiently warm water and extended daylight hours, which are required for many underwater inhabitants, have a beneficial effect on microscopic algae, leading to its rapid reproduction.

Various dressings and fertilizers, which are often abused by inexperienced aquarium enthusiasts, contribute to an increase in the number of such microorganisms.

Moreover, in some cases, the degree of water contamination when creating favorable conditions becomes so pronounced that no chemicals and special preparations can cope with the problem. Thus, if you struggle with algae unsystematically, and only when the existing inhabitants of the aquarium have already begun to die en masse, the result will be disastrous.

The reasons for the rapid reproduction of unicellular algae lie in the incorrect selection of the inhabitants of the aquarium. In the wild, unicellular organisms do not harm the ecosystem, but are its most important component. Their numbers are controlled by certain species of mollusks and snails, which feed on them by filtering the water. If there are no such creatures in the aquarium, the owner needs to fight the algae through proper care and the use of various means.

Without this, the favorable conditions created for exotic fish will become an ideal environment for the life and reproduction of unwanted organisms. It is worth taking a closer look at the most common types of algae in the aquarium. In addition, you need to understand the basic methods of dealing with these microorganisms.

Brown algae and diatoms in the aquarium and methods of dealing with them

Often, people who have only recently started fish are faced with the rapid multiplication of microorganisms. In young artificial mini-reservoirs, which are less than 3 months old, the ecosystem has not yet been formed, which contributes to the emergence of certain types of unicellular organisms.

Most often, under such conditions, brown algae or diatoms occupy the aquarium.

These microorganisms often begin to multiply rapidly when there is a lack of light. It is not too difficult to identify these organisms in an aquarium as their numbers increase.

Plants are the first to suffer from diatoms. They can become covered with a specific brown bloom in record time. They can be quickly washed off tough leaves. If you do not fight with diatoms at all, then a dark film appears on the stones, algae grows between the grains of sand lining the bottom, and form ugly spots on the walls. As a rule, brown algae in an aquarium does not harm plants and fish. However, you still need to fight them. So that diatoms in the aquarium do not spoil the general appearance, the problem can be solved by zoological, mechanical or chemical methods. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

If the fight against brown algae in the aquarium will be carried out by zootechnical means, then you need to take care of the selection of animals that will ideally fit into the ecosystem and will feed on these unicellular organisms.

Cleaners such as otsinkluses and ancitruses cope well with this type of microorganisms.

If you want to get rid of brown algae by mechanical methods, then you should prepare a siphon in advance. First you need to change the water, clean the walls of the aquarium with hydrogen peroxide and wipe the leaves of existing plants with it. Sand, stones and other elements should be cleaned with a siphon. Among other things, in order not to observe a repeated surge in the increase in the number of diatoms in the future, you should increase the lighting. Special hydrochemical agents are used only for very severe contamination.

How to remove string from an aquarium?

When, in the fight against diatoms, they overdo it with lighting, this gives a chance for another type of microorganism. With an excess of light, filamentous algae in the aquarium become clearly visible for only 5-7 days, including:

rhizoclonium;
spirogyra;
edogonium;
clodophorus.

They look similar. Usually, small green spots appear on the walls, and sometimes stones and decorative elements. Green filamentous algae, if you do not apply measures to eliminate them, grow rapidly. They are fixed on the leaves of plants. In the future, filamentous processes depart from such points. Thus, elements and areas can become completely covered with a web of very fine green hairs. The increase in the number of filamentous algae is strongly reflected in the microclimate of the artificially created environment. It is not too difficult to deal with them, but it is advisable to start taking action as early as possible.

If such algae appear in the aquarium, you need to figure out how to get rid of them as quickly as possible. First of all, in order to eliminate these single-celled organisms, it is necessary to reduce daylight hours and eliminate excess trace elements. The fight against visible parts of filamentous algae can be carried out using a siphon. Greens are removed quickly enough, as they have a very delicate structure.

The fight against algae in the aquarium begins with a decrease in daylight hours to 8 hours. In addition, the dose of fertilizer should be reduced.

In some cases, cleaning and reducing the light intensity is sufficient for these microorganisms to disappear. To quickly eliminate filamentous algae, you can use special chemicals belonging to the category of algicides. Tetra Algumin gives a good effect, but its dosage must be adequate, therefore, the recommendations in the instructions should be strictly followed. For the fight against filamentous algae to be successful, it is necessary to deprive them of their nutrition. For this, it is recommended to plant as many aquatic plants as possible.

Signs of xenococus and options for its elimination

This green algae from the aquarium looks very remarkable. It forms colonies in the form of small circles. Excessive lighting serves as a provoking factor for their increase. Removing colonies of these green algae, which are localized on glass, is extremely difficult.

It is generally impossible to do this with plants.

In order to remove these microorganisms, it is better to act in a complex manner. First, you should catch all the inhabitants and drain all the water. Severely damaged plant leaves must be removed. Using hydrogen peroxide, you can completely clean the glass in the aquarium. In addition, special cleaning agents can be used to remove these algae.

Next, new water is poured into the aquarium. It is imperative to reduce the length of daylight hours to 8 hours. However, in most cases, if the xenocokus has already appeared in the aquarium, it is not possible to completely eliminate it in the future. If there are frequent repeated bursts of reproduction of these plants, it is best to start using a special chemical agent.

The Sydenx preparation copes well with these algae.

Its dose must be adequate, therefore, it is necessary to study the instructions well before use. In the future, it will be necessary to periodically clean the glass from the existing small colonies of these microorganisms.

Blooming water from euglena green

Some algae will significantly degrade the appearance of the aquarium. Quite often, such artificial mini-reservoirs infect organisms widespread in nature, known as euglena green. When these organisms multiply, the water becomes cloudy and begins to bloom. This contributes to upsetting the internal balance in the aquarium ecosystem. In blooming water, oxygen levels decrease, which negatively affects fish and other animals living in such an artificial ecosystem.

The appearance of blooming water is most often observed in the spring, when the same process is clearly visible in all natural rivers and lakes.

These microscopic algae for the aquarium are a real disaster, plant species are severely affected. To eliminate blooming, the first step is to reduce the light intensity. It is advisable to cover the aquarium with a canvas for 2-3 days. This will not do any harm to fish and plants, but microscopic green organisms will die. Next, I remove about a third of the water present in the aquarium. It is replaced with a new one. This will prevent stagnation and allow the restoration of a normal microclimate in this artificial ecosystem.

Options for dealing with flip flops in the aquarium

These algae often appear in young artificial ecosystems where there is no established nitrogen cycle yet. Red algae in an aquarium is usually introduced using equipment and decorative items that were previously in the contaminated environment.

Vietnamese is extremely dangerous for animals and plants present in the aquarium.

The flip-flop looks like black or red bushes that grow from a wide variety of surfaces. They can germinate not only on the ground, but also on various decorative items, leaves. At the same time, they are fixed tightly to various subjects, so it is extremely problematic to give them. This alga is extremely tenacious. A Vietnamese woman can live without light for about a month, which greatly complicates the process of dealing with her.

The appearance of such algae indicates that too much waste has accumulated in the aquarium, which serves as food for them. If you don't fight algae in time, then soon all the inhabitants of the artificial ecosystem will die. It is extremely problematic to completely remove these aquarium algae. The water should be replaced. In addition, it is necessary to carry out processing with a powerful filter. This will remove algae and restore microflora.

If many algae are disposed of by settling cleaners, then it is problematic to eliminate a Vietnamese woman. Only 1 or 2 types of snails eat them. The chemical Sydex can also be used to eliminate these algae. It is quite effective. But even the use of this drug does not allow to eliminate algae completely, and in the future it will be necessary to control their growth and regularly carry out preventive measures aimed at controlling the appearance of colonies of these microorganisms.

Danger of algae black beard for the aquarium

With an increase in the amount of organic waste, another type of microscopic organisms begins to appear. Get rid of dirt in time, otherwise you will get a black beard. Green algae are easier to fight than this one. It spreads rapidly along the bottom of the aquarium, attaches to plants and walls. It looks just disgusting, but it is no longer possible to remove these microorganisms from the aquarium by 100%. Most cleaner species, such as snails, are completely indifferent to these single-celled organisms huddled in colonies, so they cannot prevent them from overgrowing. They can be effectively dealt with only by using various chemical and technical means against algae. This will prevent them from growing.

First of all, you need to reduce the level of organic matter in the aquarium. First, for this, the surface of the soil is carefully siphoned. In addition, it is necessary to carry out thorough filtration and water replacement. This will deprive the black beard of the nutrients it needs and slow down its growth. Usually, the largest thickets of these algae are observed in places with good flow, for example, near the filter tube and on its surface.

To eliminate the appearance of a black beard, get rid of excessive currents.

In addition, to effectively combat these microscopic organisms, it is necessary to plant fast-growing plant species, for example, grass or elodea, which quickly pick up excess nutrients present in this artificial ecosystem.

It is best to use chemicals to control algae in the aquarium. An excellent effect is given by the drug Sidex. This agent needs to be added to water only once a day. Typically, for a 100 l aquarium, the dose of this preparation is 10-15 ml.

The course of treatment is at least 2 weeks.

Once the algae has been removed, you should continue to add this chemical for at least 7 days to avoid relapse. If the algae are already resistant to this chemical, a product known as Element CO2 can be used. In most cases, it is not possible to get rid of this type of algae by 100% and in the future there will be repeated cases of their appearance.

So that they do not spoil the appearance of the aquarium and do not harm the local inhabitants, it is necessary to carry out cleaning in a timely manner to eliminate excess organic matter, control the level of flow, and also carry out preventive measures. Good saturation of water with carbon dioxide reduces the risk of an increase in the number of black beards.

Antler algae and methods of dealing with them

Among the many varieties of microscopic organisms that often settle in aquariums, these are quite rare. However, overgrowth of these harmful algae can quickly kill existing plants. Deer antlers get their name because they usually settle on leaves that are located near the filters. They form a characteristic edge along the edges of the plants, including green and white hairs glued together.

These algae are quite dangerous, as they can quickly lead to damage to all plants and disruption of the existing microclimate.

At the same time, it is not too difficult to deal with them. They wash well and can be removed completely. However, the single-celled microorganisms that form the filaments quickly disintegrate and, if not taken otherwise, quickly revive. It should be noted that antlers are very disliked by aquariums in which there is a significant level of carbon dioxide. To eliminate antlers, chemicals and antibiotics are used. At the same time, cleaners can also be used to combat this type of algae. The Siamese seaweed fish copes well with this task.

Blue-green algae in the aquarium

In the absence of the proper level of flow in the artificial ecosystem, other varieties of the simplest plants begin to multiply rapidly. Blue-green algae are most commonly seen in an aquarium. They are also known as cyanobacteria. These organisms are extremely simple and lack a cell nucleus. Their reproduction occurs due to usually division, so their number can increase very quickly in the presence of suitable conditions for this. Some species of cyanobacteria have a mucous membrane, due to which they form a film of a distinctly brown color, which has a very specific musty odor.

Usually, an increase in the number of these microorganisms is associated with an increase in phosphates in water, as well as against the background of nitrogen fixation. If the fight against blue-green algae is not started in a timely manner, they will quickly cover all the elements present in the aquarium with a film and destroy all the inhabitants of this artificial ecosystem.

Cleaners will help cleanse the ecosystem of an excess of these microscopic organisms.

Some species of snails, shrimps and fish readily eat microscopic creatures.

Considering that blue-green algae usually multiply rapidly against the background of an increase in water temperature and an overabundance of light, it is necessary to adjust these parameters. Among other things, cleaning, filtering and water replacement should be carried out. Such measures are usually sufficient for the green algae to stop growing and reproducing.

If the infection is too large, it is fought with antibacterial agents such as erythromycin. When we get rid of algae using chemical means, it must be borne in mind that they can negatively affect not only harmful algae, but also the inhabitants of the aquarium, thus, they should be used strictly following the instructions. Since it is extremely problematic to deal with any types of algae, it is advisable to follow all recommendations regarding the creation of conditions in such a closed ecosystem.

Methods for preventing the appearance of algae in the aquarium

In order not to think about how to deal with the unaccounted for the simplest vegetation in the aquatic ecosystem artificially formed in the house in the future, it is necessary to take into account many factors. First of all, even if all the inhabitants of the aquarium came from sunny countries, where the waters are very intensely illuminated, the length of the day in the aquarium should not exceed 12 hours. Ideally, it should be approximately 8 hours. The power of the lighting elements is of great importance.

To remove nitrates and organic residues, it is imperative to filter and replace the water. This will prevent an increase in the number of elements that can become food for the simplest algae.

An increase in oxygen levels due to additional aeration is a limiting factor for the growth of unaccounted flora.

To prevent microscopic organisms from getting nutrients, you should plant as many aquatic plants as possible in the aquarium.

In addition, you do not need to start a lot of fish, since in the course of their life they produce a lot of nitrates, which contribute to an increase in the number of protozoan algae. It is very important to have cleaners too. Organisms that eat cyanobacteria include:

ancistrus;
moths;
Siamese algae eaters;
loricaria;
otocyclus;
brocade pterygoplicht;
girinoheilus
neretina snails.

Feed the inhabitants of the aquarium in moderation, since rotting residues are an excellent food for the simplest microorganisms, therefore, an increase in the number of such nutrients contributes to their rapid reproduction. Regular cleaning of the aquarium and replacement of part of the water helps to prevent a splash of water bloom.

Filamentous algae multiply quickly enough in the aquarium and begin to occupy almost all of its area under the following conditions:

Bright lighting. The filament most often appears in those aquariums that are exposed to direct sunlight during the day or artificial lighting is used for more than 8 hours a day.

Insufficient oxygen supply.

A small number of aquarium plants. An excess of microelements supplied with fertilizer, with a small number of plants, has a positive effect on the rapid growth of filamentous fiber.

Irregular water changes in the aquarium and poor cleaning leads to the accumulation of nitrates, which are especially needed for the growth of filamentous fibers.

Often the filament appears at the very beginning of the breeding of aquarium fish and this is due to the fact that higher plants have not yet had time to take root, which means that there is an excess of trace elements necessary for the growth of protozoa. Sometimes filamentous algae can be brought into the house and along with plants purchased from pet stores.

Control methods

Filamentous algae will necessarily appear in a reservoir in the presence of an excess content of water-soluble nitrogen and phosphorus compounds. Therefore, first of all, you need to pay attention to the operation of the filter and lighting. Blue light, which favors the growth of filamentous fibers, must be eliminated and replaced with soft light.

The accumulation of ammonia compounds occurs both when the filter is clogged, and when there are too many fish with an insufficient number of plants. Floating plants and those that grow rapidly (hygrophils, vallisneria) inhibit filamentous algae, taking away their food. The concentration of iron in the aquarium is of great importance. It should not exceed the permissible dose of 0.2 mg / l.

Removing algae from the aquarium by hand, for example when populating Spirogyra, is almost the only method of control. It is very important to clean the plants from the filament and rinse them, and supply CO2 to the aquarium only during the daytime. For all cleaning activities, many recommend darkening the tank for three days.

In some cases, the use of algicides, such as Sidex, containing glutaraldehyde, is very effective. Hydrogen peroxide in an amount of 6 to 10 mg / l and filamentous are also incompatible.

Where filamentous algae grow

They grow very well in water with increased hardness. The well-known famous water bloom in swamps and artificial reservoirs is due precisely to filamentous algae. Unlike other aquatic plants, they have a specific sugary smell and salty taste. I think that a normal person will not taste swamp mud. Let us believe the experts that the taste of mud is pungent and astringent. Filamentous algae live in all bodies of water where there is no strong current. The chemical composition has not been fully understood by scientists.

Why is filamentous algae dangerous?

Filamentous algae are different clusters of rather long or short filaments. Separate bundles can form from them, thin algae are perfectly attached to snags, entangle higher aquarium plants, filter tubes and other equipment.
The color of such algae is most often green, but protozoa can also be found with brown, black, gray and even reddish color. A small amount of filamentous algae is considered normal and is more indicative of breeding conditions suitable for other plants in the aquarium.

But a huge number of filamentous growths can bring a lot of problems, and they, first of all, include: Release of toxic substances by algae residues that have a detrimental effect on the inhabitants of the aquarium. The natural dying off of a large number of filamentous algae leads to a continuous process of their decomposition, as a result of which toxins are released. Algae filaments entangle the plants growing in the aquarium and thus interfere with their growth and development.

Algae retains food residues and other organic matter, and this leads to the rapid contamination of all the water in the aquarium. Small fish and fry can become entangled in bundles of filamentous algae. In connection with these problems, it is always necessary to deal with the rapidly growing filamentous algae in the aquarium, and both the simplest ways and certain professional methods can help in this.

External signs of filamentous algae

“You need to know the enemy by sight” - this also applies to algae. The fact is that many species are collected under this name, which, often, can only be distinguished under a microscope. And you will have to deal with them using different methods.

Here are the main signs by which you can confidently determine that these are indeed green filamentous algae.

Appearance: thin green threads.
Texture: soft, slimy to the touch. When removed from water, they immediately lose their shape and sag.

Cladophora is often considered filamentous, but this is an erroneous opinion. Cladophora has a tough, elastic texture that practically does not lose its shape in air.

Green filamentous algae feed and grow from substances dissolved in water and the process of photosynthesis that occurs in the light.

General information about prevention

"Algae calamity" will not occur in an aquarium in which the correct life balance is maintained. The appearance of green filamentous algae is, first of all, an alarm signal for the aquarist, indicating the beginning of oppression of plants due to an overabundance of some substances and a lack of others. To prevent this from happening, follow the simple recommendations.

It is important to remember that algae are equal participants in the biological processes taking place in your aquarium. It is not their presence at all that is harmful, but their active growth, an overabundance of algae. In a well balanced aquarium, algae infestation will not occur.

Many experienced aquarists do not protest at all against the visible presence of algae, deliberately leaving them in inconspicuous places. In small quantities, they are beneficial by absorbing some excess nutrients and rotting products.

An important principle of keeping an aquarium is regularity and moderation. Where the fish are fed without overfeeding and the volume of water is sufficient for them, the plants live and prosper, the dirt is constantly removed, and the water is refreshed and aerated - in a harmonious, well-kept aquarium, there are no "environmental disasters".

GREEN ALGAE IN AQUARIUM - STRUCTURE FIGHT AGAINST THEM PHOTO VIDEO REPRODUCTION.

Algae in the aquarium is a sign of a well-established biobalance. They appear on plants, rocks, glass walls, and even equipment. However, their rapid growth means that dramatic changes are taking place in the aquatic environment. In an aquarium where there are many plants, algae will not appear in large quantities. Good aeration and water filtration will stop their growth. Timely removal of food debris and dirt contributes to the purity of the water. If you notice that brown formations appear in the reservoir, it means that brown algae have settled in it. How to get rid of brown algae and stop their reproduction?

The origin of brown algae, symptoms of formation

Brown algae are representatives of the department of Diatoms (Bacillariophyta). They should not be confused with Brown Seaweed (Phaeophyta), which includes kelp. In an aquarium, these algae do more harm than good and must be dealt with.

Diatoms form brown dusty deposits on the walls of the reservoir. It appears everywhere - on the ground, and on snags, and on the filter, and on glass, even on plant leaves. Initially, the formation is almost imperceptible, but later it takes on a dark, saturated shade.

At the initial stage, this type of algae is easily removed with a scraper, even stripped off the plants. If you prowl the decoration, then a lot of dusty particles will fall off from it. Dust can be wiped off with a regular cloth soaked in running water, but without the use of detergents and soap.

Watch a helpful video on how to deal with diatoms.

But in a neglected reservoir, the fight against diatoms will be difficult. Brown particles turn black, grow rapidly, forming growths on all surfaces. The top layer is peeled off, but the bottom remains. It resembles a surface crushed by the earth; brown algae are almost invisible through the front glass.

The problem is that such diatoms negatively affect the health of plants and fish. Plants cannot carry out photosynthesis, practically "suffocate", and the fish do not get enough nutrients from the water, they can get poisoned. If you do not deal with the problem in a timely manner, the consequences will be disastrous for all living creatures.

Reasons for the appearance, how to prevent the process

The aquarium should be illuminated for 10-12 hours a day, no more. Do not place the reservoir in direct sunlight. The bacteria that are the source of algae grow easily under light.
Overpopulation of the nursery with fish is a source of nitrates, which plants do not have time to assimilate. If you have a lot of fish, the tank should be spacious.
If there are fish in the tank such as mollies, Siamese algae eaters, ancistrus, loricaria, ototsinklus catfish, then they will help fight brown plaque by eating it. Also algae are fond of neretina snails.
Do not overfeed the fish; remove food debris from the bottom with a siphon or net.
Change the aquarium water to clean water regularly, once a week.
If a nitrogen cycle has not been established in a recently started aquarium, an algae outbreak is more likely. The process of forming a biological balance lasts 1-2 weeks, at this time do not settle fish there and do not make large water changes. If the level of nitrates in the water is 50 mg per 1 liter, the water must be well filtered and replaced with a new one. Take measurements of water parameters constantly.

See how you can get rid of brown algae in your aquarium with Theodoxus snails.

How to get rid of brown plaque?

If you notice that brown algae have appeared in a recently launched aquarium, and they have begun to spread en masse, then fighting them will be easy. The correct maintenance schedule should be followed and the problem will be resolved in 2-3 weeks. Clean the aquarium regularly, change 20-30% of the water once a week. As the aquarium plants begin to grow, the algae will disappear due to the large amount of dissolved oxygen.

When an outbreak of algae occurs in an aquarium with "old" water, it is necessary to replace the water already 2 times in 7 days, changing 30% of the water volume. When replacing, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the tank from excess food, waste products of fish. Scrub the glass of the aquarium, siphon the bottom, clean the decorations and plants with a toothbrush or a clean sponge.

Check the degree of clogging of the filter, if the filtration speed has decreased, it means that the filter is clogged. Clean the filter, but do not change its contents. Reduce daylight hours to 6 hours a day for several days, and gradually increase it to 10 hours over the next 2 weeks. If the lamps work for 1 year, then it is better to replace them with new ones, but not all at once, but one by one. Brown plaque appears in the aquarium in a week, and it takes almost a month to fight it.

How to get rid of brown algae in an aquarium :: brown algae in an aquarium how to deal with :: Aquarium fish

Sometimes the walls, plants, soil and other accessories in the aquarium are covered with a brown coating. This is not only extremely unaesthetic, but also dangerous for aquarium inhabitants. If a similar situation has arisen, then you need to urgently take action. The enemy of the aquarium is brown algae. These are multicellular organisms that appear with improper lighting and an excess of organic matter.

The question “opened a pet store. Business is not going. What to do? "- 2 answers

You will need

Lighting devices for the aquarium, cultivated algae, special chemicals against brown algae, several ontocyclus catfish.

Instructions

1. To combat brown algae, first of all, you need to know the reasons for their appearance. Poor lighting, high nitrate content in the water, high pH level, too low carbon dioxide content - all this can lead to the appearance of brown algae.

2. Oddly enough, higher plants, that is, cultivated algae specially planted in the aquarium, can become helpers in the fight against brown algae. They will absorb all the nutrients dissolved in the water, and brown algae will not get anything.

3. To fight the enemy aquarium effectively use fast-growing plants, you need to plant them quite densely the entire area of the aquarium. It is necessary to create the right lighting for better plant growth, daylight hours should be about ten hours.

4. It is necessary to reduce the content of organic matter in the aquarium. For this, it is important to regularly change part of the water volume and reduce the amount of feed. Pets should eat all the feed in about two minutes, and the rest should be surplus.

5. It is extremely useful to plant several catfish in the aquarium. They love to eat brown algae and will be happy to help get rid of them. Five ototsinklus catfish are able to maintain order in a hundred liter aquarium.

6. An emergency measure in the fight against brown algae can be the use of special chemicals. However, it is worth remembering that their effectiveness is temporary. These chemicals are sold at the pet store. A consultant can help you choose the best option. There are also special conditioners for water, they accelerate the growth of cultivated aquarium plants and improve their appearance.

An aquarium is a closed biosystem in which not only fish and plants are present, but also hundreds of species of bacteria and unicellular organisms. Microscopic algae are also on this list. They multiply under certain conditions and in large numbers. The fact is that they greatly spoil the appearance of the aquarium and change the habitat in it.

Instructions

1. You can often observe green bloom on the glass of the aquarium. algae... It is usually harmless unless it multiplies too much. To remove it, you just need to clean the glass of the aquarium with a scraper. If it is necessary to destroy the excess algae, then it is enough to let the fish eating them into the aquarium. You can also temporarily darken the aquarium or use too bright artificial lighting.

2. If brown algae appear, this is a sign that there is not enough light. They usually appear in winter, when there is not enough artificial light. In the spring, they disappear by themselves. A scraper can be used to combat these algae. Cleaning is necessary a couple of times a week.

3. If an invasion has occurred in your aquarium algae then this is a natural result of bad conditions. First you need to pay attention to the water. Reproduction usually takes place in dirty old water, which contains a lot of organic matter, nitrogen, phosphorus compounds, vitamins and trace elements. Explosive growth algae can disrupt the gas exchange of the reservoir. Water bloom will also occur. As a result, many plants may die.

4. To fight them, you first need to optimize the habitat, remove affected plants, install filters that have biological fillers. It is imperative to provide round-the-clock aeration in the aquarium. As a last resort, you can use special chemicals. They are sold in almost every pet store.

5. If there is an excessive reproduction of brown algae, then a characteristic slimy coating will certainly form on the surface of leaves and stones. There are times when these algae completely cover the bottom of the aquarium. To combat, you can use the antibiotic erythromycin.

note

Somik-ototsinklyus is a real "janitor" for an aquarium.

Helpful advice

It is easier to deal with brown algae if you find out the reasons for their appearance.

How to remove black plaque from aquarium plants

Why do the plants in the aquarium take on an unnatural appearance? If you notice a black or brown-brown coating on them, this is a signal that processes that disrupt the ecosystem are taking place in the reservoir. When plants are covered with black bloom, immediately resort to decisive action to eliminate it.

Black beard

Black plaque on plants can appear as a result of infection with the so-called "black beard". It is a dark brown algae that covers the leaf plates of plants, soil, glass and decorations. Thin threads of a dark shade on plants does not look aesthetically pleasing. A black beard can damage the plant, causing it to wither quickly.

The algae spreads rapidly, and it is difficult to fight it. Some chemicals and dimming the lighting may be partial, but they will not fix the root of the problem. To destroy the beard, you need to include comprehensive measures. The first thing to do is to renew the water regularly, from 10 to 25% of the total volume of the aquarium. The water should be free of nitrates and phosphates; before pouring into the aquarium, take measurements with indicators.

The second procedure, which will help to eliminate black plaque in the aquarium, is cleaning the soil from food residues, removing dead plant leaves. Next, you should increase the lighting power to 1 W per liter of water, turn on the light for 12 hours. Additional help will be provided by some species of snails and fish, which can clear the aquarium of algae and their waste products.

It is important to control the proportions of the food: if you give the fish more food, then the residues that have not been eaten will dissolve, the level of ammonia in the water will increase. You can plant fast-growing plant species in the ground that are excellent at absorbing nutrients. The first sign that the algae is dying off is a change in its color to faded. Over time, the affected beard will fall off.

A universal remedy for aquarium black beard is on sale - this is JBL Algol. It will destroy the fouling that has formed on surfaces in a matter of days. The drug should be introduced into the reservoir according to the instructions.

Additional methods of struggle

It is generally accepted that it is impossible to completely remove dark bloom in the form of a black beard from the aquarium, but there are a number of additional measures that will help reduce its growth. The main thing is to settle not very many fish in a cramped tank. To suppress the beard, you can use the supply of CO2 (carbon dioxide). In order to avoid infection with this pest, when buying a plant, carefully inspect its stems and leaves. The slightest flutter of hairs and brushes of a black beard when moving or immersed in water signals that you cannot buy a plant.

If conservative methods of dealing with black plaque do not help, then serious measures must be taken:

Transfer the fish to another pre-prepared aquarium.
Remove all plants along with the soil.
Rinse the soil thoroughly under water, then boil it or bake it in the oven at a temperature of 300 degrees Celsius.
The aquarium walls need to be washed and wiped with cotton wool dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate, then rinse the glass several times.
Restart the aquarium by examining all the plants. The affected areas of the plant can be removed. Or take their uninfected shoots, replant them in a separate container and grow them.
Better to plant new and healthy plants in a newly launched aquarium.

Check out how to get rid of a black beard.

There are so-called "biological" ways to combat harmful algae.

Brown algae

Dark plaque on plants and aquarium decorations can result from the development of brown diatoms. They settle on the walls of the tank, on the soil and plant leaves. Brown algae are harmful because they shade the leaves, as a result of which plant nutrition is disrupted, they do not receive enough light and nutrients. Brown bloom is embedded in the structure of the plant, which is why it is not so easy to get rid of it. It often forms in the first months after the launch of a new aquarium, and after a few months it disappears by itself. There are a number of methods that can help combat dark plaque.

Watch the video on how to deal with brown (diatom) algae.

How to get rid of blue-green algae

Aquarium owners are often faced with such a problem as blue-green algae, which actively grow in their small artificial pond. As soon as such a colony appears on the walls of the aquarium, the alarm should be sounded. This is a marker indicating an imbalance in the ecological balance that must be dealt with.

How algae enters the aquarium

Scientists classify blue-green algae in a class of bacteria. In appearance, they resemble a slippery carpet on the surface of an artificial reservoir of dirty brown color. Such living forms have exceptional adaptability and vitality. If the blue-green algae is in the aquarium, it will be difficult to get rid of it.

To be precise, these are cyanobacteria that appear on the walls of the aquarium when it is exposed to direct sunlight for a long time, or when the water temperature is higher than required. Also, a large amount of organic impurities has a beneficial effect on the development of blue-greens. Such bacteria will grow rapidly if the aquarium is not cleaned regularly. Also, the reason for the appearance of cyanobacteria is the rare change of water in the aquarium.

Blue-green algae are very unpretentious, they only need minimal conditions for development. These bacteria take all the nutrients necessary for their development and growth from water. They grow not only on the ground, but also on any object that may be at the bottom of the aquarium: stones, snags, shells. The unique ability of fast recovery allows blue-green algae to recover their population very quickly. Therefore, getting rid of them is not so easy.

The peculiarity of these microorganisms that live in the aquarium is an unpleasant odor. The larger the surface of the artificial reservoir is covered with blue-green algae, the more polluted the water, and the aquarium itself turns into a decaying puddle.

The harmful effect of blue-green algae on the artificial microclimate of the aquarium is that they prevent the water from dissolving oxygen, increasing the amount of nitrogen in it. Getting rid of these bacteria is not easy. There is a special way every aquarist should know how to deal with blue-green algae.

How to eliminate algae using darkening?

The simplest and most common way to deal with blue-green algae is to darken your tank. To do this, you need to remove fish, plants, stones and driftwood, a compressor, filters and other equipment from the aquarium. After that, it is closed from light for three days. During this time, carbon dioxide, which is emitted by blue-green algae, ceases to enter the water. In the absence of light, such a bacterium will die after three days.

The danger of this cleaning method is that microscopic particles of such algae can remain in the soil, which after a short time will again develop into a huge colony. The darkening of the aquarium must be combined with the disinfection of the artificial reservoir. Only in this case can you protect yourself more reliably, which helps to additionally fight the problem.

How should the tank be disinfected?

Successful control involves disinfecting the aquarium equipment from blue-green algae. It must be thoroughly boiled so that the smallest remains of cyanobacteria are destroyed. To completely remove blue-green algae from plants in the aquarium, you need to place them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for at least half an hour. Then the aquarium vegetation is washed in running water and transplanted into clean water.

The fishes themselves, snails, molluscs and all other living organisms living in the aquarium are also deposited in settled water for several days. Having arranged such a quarantine for all living things in the aquarium, you can clean it well from microorganisms. In the reservoir itself, a net is used to catch the remains of blue-green algae. After that, you need to process the soil of an artificial reservoir using a compressor. It is necessary to siphon the soil so that it is enriched with oxygen.

How do I clean a large volume of aquarium water?

To purify water, small artificial reservoirs will need to be replaced completely. It is not so difficult to do this for an aquarium that does not exceed a volume of 70 liters. If your tank is large, then you can purify the water without replacing it.

See how to get rid of blue-green algae.

Hydrogen peroxide can be used to clean containers of 100-200 liters. It is necessary to correctly calculate the ratio of peroxide to the volume of water. The oxygen in the peroxide will help purify the water of cyanobacteria (blue-green algae). For 100 liters of water for effective cleaning, you will need 25 ml of hydrogen peroxide, which can be purchased at the pharmacy. You need to purify water with peroxide once a day. While the three-day quarantine is in progress, hydrogen peroxide must be added to the water at this time every 24 hours. Peroxide cleansing is usually carried out within three days. On the fourth day, new settled water is added to the tank, the volume of which should not exceed 40% of its total volume. Such purification of the aquatic environment allows you to completely get rid of blue-green algae.

Recovery of the cleaned tank

The removed living organisms in the form of fish, newts, snails, plants and accessories begin to be returned to the purified reservoir. First, plants are planted in the ground from a quarantine container. They must acclimatize within 24 hours. Therefore, they need to be left in the aquarium for a day.

Such a daily quarantine already in the aquarium itself allows you to make sure that you have managed to get rid of blue-green algae on the plants. During planting and acclimatization of aquatic plants, it is necessary to protect the artificial reservoir from direct sunlight, so as not to create a favorable environment for these microorganisms.

A day later, the fireplace, shells and other accessories return to the glass reservoir, allowing you to create the desired design. They are also left for a day to check if there are any cyanobacteria left on their surface. Only after a daily check of such accessories can fish and other inhabitants of the underwater environment be launched at the last stage.

See how to effectively remove blue-green algae from your aquarium walls.

Benefits of Combining Darkening Technique and Adding Peroxide to Water

Using the technique of darkening and adding hydrogen peroxide to the aquarium water allows you to well clean its walls from blue-green algae. The use of combined disinfection of an artificial reservoir will help save it from infection with cyanobacteria.

In general, the most effective way to combat blue-green algae is prevention and regular cleaning of an artificial reservoir. This will prevent the accumulation of organic sediment in the aquarium soil, from which cyanobacteria will feed.

It is also necessary to ensure that direct sunlight does not fall on the walls of the tank. In general, the lighting of an artificial reservoir should be moderate. It is also necessary to ensure that a lot of carbon dioxide does not accumulate in the water, and oxygen is regularly supplied to the aquarium water.

You also need to clean live food before giving it to underwater inhabitants. This will help reduce sources of pollution in the artificial reservoir. All this will help to avoid the appearance of blue-green algae in your aquarium. Compliance with the rules of hygiene reliably protects against dangerous microorganisms that create a breeding ground for blue-green algae in the aquarium.

Vietnamese and algae control methods

Vietnamese refers to a group of algae that aquarists often refer to as a brush, beard or bush. The name directly depends on the appearance of the "uninvited guest", which can be clearly seen in the photo. These algae are considered a real trouble for the aquarist, since it is very difficult to fight it. Their appearance in the aquarium is very dangerous and can be detrimental to all inhabitants. Most of these algae are stratal, slightly less filamentous and very rare - unicellular. Aquariums are classified as filamentous species.

Description

Algae in the aquarium can take on different colors, for which the chlorophyll pigments - phycobilins - are responsible. According to biochemical analysis, they can be compared with cyanobacteria, from which, according to scientists, they originated, and blue-green algae. Red algae are very dangerous for the aquarium, as they multiply very quickly and in a few days, easily, spreads everywhere. Photos of damaged aquariums are often terrifying.

The largest number of flip flops is located at the tips of plants, or rather their leaves. Preferred habitats include decor, various protrusions and stems of aquarium flora. A large number of enzymes in them are conducive to a large absorption of solar energy, which leads to active growth. It was noticed that most problem aquariums were illuminated by an active yellow light. Such lamps have a beneficial effect on the growth of algae and negatively on the development of higher plants. Shifts in spectrum selection lead to the appearance of a beard. It is important to avoid direct sunlight. To fight, the affected leaves are removed, if new foci begin to emerge on the rest, then you will have to say goodbye to the entire plant.

The difference between a flip-flop and a beard

It is not difficult to distinguish a Vietnamese from a beard, just look at the photo. Pay attention to the strings, if they start to turn into tassels, then you have a traditional Vietnamese woman, if they increase in length, then a beard. In other words, the Vietnamese grows in a bush, and the beard grows in a fringe length of green or dark green. A beard can settle in any part and develop well on anything, and a Vietnamese woman is much more demanding. It is most often located far from the current (grottoes and stones), but if the plants are located in the current, then it can be located there too.

In either case, the water takes on a dirty green color. Visual examination alone is not enough to determine the color of algae. Red pigment can only appear when exposed to alcohol, acetone or solvent. Take some hairs of algae and place them in rubbing alcohol. Red algae will retain their original color, while green algae will become colorless. Unfortunately, algae eaters refuse to use beards and flip flops. Neither Amano nor Siamese algae eaters will eat it. The reason for this can be attributed to coloring pigments.

Reasons for the appearance of red algae:

Lack of oxygen in the water;
Excessive current;
Excessive number of inhabitants;
The blowdown is too strong.

Most often, the leaves of slow-growing plants are the first to suffer from the reproduction of algae, from which the latter will probably die, and only then the rest. Loves the Vietnamese Anubias and Echinodorus and similar plants with a wide leaf plate.

How to get rid of flip flops

Unfortunately, if your aquarium is inhabited by flip flops or other algae, you will have to deal with them for a long time and thoroughly. However, hopes that you can get rid of it without leaving a trace is not worth it. Chemical and mechanical means are powerless. Whatever you do, sooner or later the algae will reappear in the aquarium. The only way to help the plants and fish located there is to control the numbers. Maintain optimal biological performance. Pay attention to the nutrient balance of water and soil.

Take a closer look at filtration and filtering elements. It may be necessary to evict from the aquarium those fish that periodically rummage in the ground and siphon it. If you manage to establish optimal conditions and adjust the portion of food for the inhabitants, then the Vietnamese and green algae will not bother you, but it should be borne in mind that the slightest hesitation will cause an outbreak again.

There are alternative ways to fight, but they are temporary and only have a temporary effect. Establishing biological equilibrium is the most effective of all methods. In fact, it is not difficult to do this, he is quite conscientious about his pets.

Be mindful of the new plants you plan to add to your tank. Dip them in water and wiggle them to notice the hairs located on the leaves. If this option does not seem reliable to you, then prepare a solution of whiteness in a ratio of 1:20 with clean water and soak the beginner there for 2 minutes, then wash him thoroughly and plant him in the aquarium. If this is not done, then the spores of the algae will instantly begin to be struck by the plants already living there. Proof that the fight is successful will be the gradually brightening water and the cleansing of leaves, stems and decor from plaque.

The trouble with the aquarium is the appearance of filamentous algae

Filamentous algae are an aquarist's nightmare. As soon as they appear in the aquarium, these thin green strands, like hair, braiding plants and stones, begin to grow rapidly. In a matter of days, they can fill the entire indoor reservoir, and it is very difficult to get rid of them.

Growing up, algae release an excess amount of waste into the water, entangle the plants, interfering with their growth. Remnants of food get stuck in the algae, fish fry can get entangled. All this leads to active decay processes in the aquarium, and if the process is started and nothing is done with it, even lead to the death of the bio-system.

Algae and plants are natural competitors

First of all, you need to understand that algae and aquatic plants are completely different things. Plants are higher, complexly organized creatures, have different departments in their structure: root system, stem, leaves, shoots. Each organ consists of its own kind of cells. Algae, the lowest, the simplest, are much more primitive in structure - they have no division into organs, and they consist of only one type of cells. But complex biochemical processes take place in these cells.

An aquarium is a model of a biosystem, and algae also occupy their niche in it. They are part of the natural balance.

Green filamentous algae are, to a certain extent, a competitor to plants. If the conditions for the plants are optimal, they feed well and grow, there is no excess of nutrients and light, then they suppress algae. If these conditions are somehow violated - algae "raise their head". The appearance of an unwanted inhabitant is an alarm signal that the balance in the aquarium is disturbed, and only by restoring it, you can reduce the growth of algae and get rid of them, at least from their excessive presence.

External signs of filamentous algae

Here are the main signs by which you can confidently determine that these are indeed green filamentous algae.

Appearance: thin green threads.
Texture: soft, slimy to the touch. When removed from water, they immediately lose their shape and sag.

Cladophora is often considered filamentous, but this is an erroneous opinion. Cladophora has a tough, elastic texture that practically does not lose its shape in air.

Green filamentous algae feed and grow from substances dissolved in water and the process of photosynthesis that occurs in the light.

Types of filamentous algae and methods of dealing with them

Different types of green filamentous algae have different "preferences" in nutrition and living conditions. To know how to deal with them, you need to be able to distinguish between them.

In the aquarium, there are two varieties of this family: long green threads that float freely in the water, and shorter ones that accumulate on the glass surface, shoots and plant planes.

Spirogura

Thin, often very long, bright green "strands" that can clump into whole nests. Formed in the vicinity of plants, especially young ones, which are actively growing.

The difficulty in dealing with Spirogyra is that it prefers the same conditions that are good for plants: a sufficient amount of nutrients and good light. But the surge in algae growth is caused, as a rule, by an overabundance of these factors, even a small one (remember that under optimal conditions, where everything is enough, but nothing is in excess, the plants will suppress the algae, taking away nutrients from it).

Spirogyra grows rapidly in established aquariums that are not well cleaned. The algal surge in this case can be stimulated by some insignificant, at first glance, event: a dead fish not noticed in time, for example.

Spirogyra threads are very soft, easily rubbed with your fingers. It is easy to remove them mechanically - by winding green strands on a rough wooden stick, a toothbrush, and the remnants that have settled to the bottom - with a siphon. First of all, it is necessary to carry out mechanical cleaning, removing as much algae as possible. Then exclude the factors of its active growth: reduce the illumination (it is better to completely darken the aquarium for 2-3 days, this will not harm fish and plants, but it will be a serious blow for algae), slightly increase the water temperature. Change the water more often to reduce the concentration of macro-elements in it. The introduction of the preparation Bicillin-5 into the aquarium also helps.

There are also natural enemies of this type of algae. It is well eaten by barbs, platies, guppies and other viviparous, shrimps.

Thread (Green Hair Algae, Hair / Thread Algae, Fuzz Algae)

The name unites a huge number of very similar species. Long filaments are bright or dark green, grayish or blackish. They grow in long bundles attached to old plants, stones, driftwood, filters, in the most illuminated places.

With the active growth of algae, after mechanical cleaning, you should pay attention to the composition of the water: establish an even supply of carbon dioxide (fluctuations in CO2 accelerate the growth of filamentous fiber at times), check the concentration of nutrients, the level of nitrates. The reason for the growth spurt may be water pollution with nitrates, ammonium - in this case, it is necessary to increase the frequency of replacement. A deficiency in the composition of NO3 and PO4 may also be to blame - plant growth under such conditions is inhibited, and algae are actively coming to the fore.

If additional CO2 supply does not solve the problem, increase the concentration of NO3 and PO4. If this does not help, the excess of macronutrients, nitrates and phosphates is to blame, which should be constantly reduced by water changes, cleaning the aquarium.

Natural enemies of filamentous fish are viviparous fish, shrimps, barbs, coil snails.

"Fluff" (Oedogonium)

Short, bright green filamentous algae that appear in the form of a fluff on the leaves and stems of plants. They occupy plants with long stems first.

Oedogonium is the first warning sign of a lack of nutrition in an aquarium, a poverty of soil. Under normal conditions, this type of algae is easily displaced by strong plants, but with a lack of nutrition, a burst of growth of the "green gun" is possible.

The main mistake that an aquarist can make when starting to fight this type of algae is to increase the frequency of water changes without adding additional plant nutrition. To eliminate them, you need to check and, if there is a shortage, increase the supply of carbon dioxide, feed the plants with macronutrients.

"Green fluff" is happy to eat shrimps, mollies, barbs - they will help to fight the misfortune, but will not completely solve the problem.

Chlamydomonas and Chlorella. (Green water, Algae bloom, Green tinted water, Euglaena)

"Water blooms" is the process of explosive growth of these algae. In summer, this happens in all fresh water bodies: the water becomes cloudy, green, thin green threads float in it. Reason: the simplest unicellular algae, actively multiplying and floating freely in the water.

And if for natural reservoirs this is part of the natural life process, then for an aquarium it is a real disaster. Most of all, these algae harm plants, shading them and taking away food.

Strictly speaking, unicellular algae do not belong to filamentous algae - they are even more primitive in structure. However, in aquarium terminology, these species are often combined. The fact is that in the mass, unicellular organisms can combine into groups and filaments, their texture, growth conditions, harm to the aquarium and methods of control are very similar to filamentous ones.

Blooming water is a sign of overexposure and contamination of the aquarium. To cope with this process, it is necessary to shade the aquarium for several days, while maintaining a powerful and smooth compressor operation. But even if algae have disappeared from these measures, a water change can cause a new outbreak, and the procedure must be repeated. Therefore, the only way is to use a diatom filter or UV sterilizer.

The chemical method of dealing with unicellular organisms is bicillin-5, penicillin. Ozonation of water helps a lot.

You can get rid of flowering in a natural way - daphnia crustaceans feed on algae and clear the water in a few days. The only problem with this method is that you will need to remove fish from the aquarium, which the daphnia eat with pleasure.

General information about prevention

Regular cleaning and water changes in the aquarium. If these conditions are not met, many decay products, nitrates, which cause decay processes, water spoilage, and algae growth, accumulate in your indoor pond.
Harmonious lighting. Excessive light provokes excessive activity of algae. For good control of this factor, it is necessary, first of all, to correctly set up the aquarium - where it will not be exposed to direct sunlight. The length of daylight hours, sufficient for plants and fish, is 10-12 hours.
Adequate aquarium plants. Algae often begin to actively reproduce where there are few or no plants, in an aquarium with cichlids, for example. These fish are actively digging the ground, and aquarists often decorate their home with artificial decorations only. Meanwhile, plants are necessary for the harmonious life of an artificial reservoir, otherwise their place in the bio-system will be occupied by uninvited aliens.
Good aeration. Adequate oxygen supply is essential for everyone living in an aquarium. If the plants feel good (and they need oxygen), then they will be able to suppress the growth of algae.

How to get rid of algae in your aquarium? My reader, you have no idea how glad I am! Finally, a global problem was solved in an accessible way. There are hundreds of tips on the Internet on how to get rid of this scum. Moreover, the more clever and longer the article, the more valuable it is. Right? After all, there are so many details about algae!

And the poor aquarist wrenches his brains from the contradictory advice, going from site to site. Either you need a lot of light, then you need to reduce the amount of it. Either turn off the lamps for a few days, then turn it on on the contrary. Yes, not simple ones from a hardware store, but specialized ones for plants. Either pour fertilizer or don’t. I will not write a scientific article about aquarium algae and their varieties. I'd better teach you what to do. But I'll tell my story in order.

My aquarium is small by today's standards - 170 liters. There is an eternal problem in it - the plants grow somehow sluggishly. The depth is great - a column of water 60 cm. Who would argue: it is dark at the bottom. I would add light, but even without that, the lamps heat the water up to 28 degrees. The optimum temperature for plants is 24-26. Plants survive painfully and get sick from overheating. To keep the plants comfortable, I use a nutritious substrate under the soil. I bought Tetra CompleteSubstrate twice. But it is not eternal, it depletes in a year. Once again, it was decided instead of the proprietary substrate.

Ordinary vegetable garden from the garden, not from the store. Because the latter contains not earth, but a mixture of peat. No sooner said than done. The plants burst into growth wildly, especially raging, scattering a dozen children around the mother bush. For four months everything was great, then I went on vacation for 3 weeks. My husband fed my fish farm "from the belly", and my "beggars" were only glad of this. The lighting for a dozen aquariums was in charge, so I was not particularly worried.

I returned to the swamp. The whole aquarium (this very problematic one) became depressed, the plants took on an unhealthy yellowish tint. Because both glasses and plants are covered with brown (diatom) algae. Usually in such cases they say: dim lamps, little light. This statement wanders from site to site. Whatever it is. There are many reasons for this, I will list them all.

Naturally, I grabbed my head. Experiments with earth failed again! We urgently need to remove it. And it took me to the other extreme: I decided to use ordinary river sand as a soil. As you know, there is nothing useful for plants in it. Plants do not grow in bare sand! This is for the information for beginners who stick the flakes in the sand and are surprised that it has dissolved in a couple of weeks. It was decided to use unwashed river sand as the bottom layer, and clean on top. I didn't take it out of the water. I dug it up on the bank about five meters from the river. A bit of liquid fertilizer in the water, a bit - under the roots. Also liquid, with such a syringe.

This is another experiment of mine.

As a result, I lost my entire population of nymphs. They quietly shed their leaves and dissolved, not trying to settle down in the new soil. It took 4 months to kill all the plants. And brown algae still dominated the aquarium. Not so violently, but the underwater landscape somehow did not please with a faded yellowness. My aquarium has seen completely different times, and the plants in it delighted the eye with bright green freshness. Wiping diatoms off the glass once a week is not a problem. Who was so self-confident who suggested washing them off the plants? Storyteller. Plants slowly die under the layer of diatom plaque, because the process of chlorophyll formation in them stops. Of course, without light under a layer of algal fouling, what kind of life?

The next action in the struggle for the prosperity of plants in my aquas was the replacement of the river soil with a nice purchased one. I remember that 33 kilos I brought him home exactly on New Year's Eve.

Small rounded pebbles, fraction of about 0.3-0.4 mm.

Down below the roots I planned a layer of AQUAYER nutrient mat.

I bought a substrate in an online store. City shops do not practice such a miracle. Dense, however. To order, we also could not find this particular fertilizer. Thanks to the internet and the friendship with the computer.

I bought new plants. Quite a lot of willow hygrophila. And she restarted the aquarium. Naturally, I know that 3 blades of grass are not an option for restarting. There should be a lot of plants at once, preference is for fast-growing ones. You know, even my hornwort turned yellow after 2 weeks! From diatoms. They are brown! Covering the plants, they give a yellow tint. In general - phew ... Not that it was completely awful, but initially, when the hygrophil was planted, it was greener.

What is the reason? Roy meticulously once again the internet. I remove a dozen barbs from the aquarium. Firstly, the rodents are still those, and strive to bite something. Mine got used to eating young Anubias leaves. Secondly, barbus excrement is not a good fertilizer for plants. So it turns out! According to numerous observations, plants in aquariums of live-bearers feel great. This is, apparently, by analogy: cow and chicken manure is an excellent fertilizer for the garden. And pork - no, no! We strain our brains and remember what they eat.

And so, down with the barbs. The next reason is the new soil from which the silicates are spun. Here - just wait and endure. There is some kind of tricky chemistry from silicates in the Chinese. Came across on taobao, but did not order. I decided to wait for the soil to "age" naturally.

Another reason is fish overfeeding. Too much organic matter dissolved in the water. Hence - also diatoms. Yes, sinful. 4 shark balls have grown up in the aquarium.

Handsome men among small things. They have to be supplemented with additional non-small "croutons". Quite good food made in China, fish grows well on it. But in an aquarium with live plants, it is best to keep small fish. She eats little and crap little. Yeah.

In addition to the above, balu sharks are also barbs. Like this. I decided to part with them. She replaced the barbs with a dozen Australian melanothenies, and the shark balu with the koi scalar. Here is such a castling.

The fight against algae is over!

And you know, finally, the brown diatoms retreated!

The soil has “aged” and has ceased to release silicates.
I parted with fiery and Sumatran barbs.
The sharks have moved to the ball to other owners, thanks to a nearby pet store. They left a week later for a neighboring town.
A dozen tireless velifer snowflakes have appeared in the aquarium. They diligently pinch any fouling. There is little sense from them. But they are live bearers. I have one labeo, caught it from a small "little house" and sent it to graze in a problem aquarium. This scoundrel ate my ludwigia bush in one day. Almost all of the delicate leaves are covered with his "grater". I had to catch up with a butterfly net and send it back to the place of registration. For the same reason, she did not start algae eaters. Get carried away and spoil something.
The fish began to feed much more moderately than before, since the remaining eaters are not so gluttonous.

Something else? Well, of course! I added lighting! Has ordered an amazing LED lamp from China. Light now - like in Africa on a sunny day. The plants were delighted and cheered up. In just a month, the half-empty aquarium was filled with plants. These are no longer purchased, but grown by me. While the aquarium was problematic, it made no sense to plant something valuable in it. Lower leaves from poor lighting will be shed. Diatoms will not allow plants to fully live and develop.

Now I boldly transplanted into the aquarium a couple of viviparous aponogetons, 3 limnophila branches, a rajah nymphae bush, ludwigia, a hygrophilous cinema. And the yellow cryptocarina smelled and settled itself in the foreground, filling the free space. Hornwort bunches - down with. He was happily picked up by a nearby pet store. While I was struggling with diatoms, I was afraid to remove the hornwort. He honestly held the defense, taking the blow on himself and protecting my fragile plants, which were in no hurry to rage among the algae.

But guys, where there is a lot of light - wait for the invasion of green algae! I have long ago turned on my brains in the direction of sidex. This is a commercial proprietary name. The chemical itself is glutaraldehyde. It is used in the fight against algae in the aquarium.

And the trade name can be anything you like. There are many of these drugs. They all contain 2.5% glutaraldehyde. The manufacturer sells it in liters as a sidex.

The Chinese - a concentrated solution in small glass bottles. It is very convenient: you dilute 1 part of the concentrate (the whole bottle) in ½ liter of water. And you get the same 2.5% glutaraldehyde to fight algae. In fact, such a bottle on taobao costs mere pennies, but shipping from China is expensive.

Aquarists have long been accustomed to using sidex “for peaceful purposes”. Who said that the aquarium should be brought to disgrace, and then treated with bad doses of glutaraldehyde?

It must be wisely applied! The daily dose is 4-5 ml per 100 liters (it is better to start carefully with 3 ml), or 1 ml for 30 liters. In this concentration, it is not only harmless to fish and plants. He's useful! When decomposed, it serves as an additional source of CO2, feeding plants and beneficial bacteria. 99% of the carbon supplied from the cylinder escapes into the atmosphere, and the carbon released by glutaraldehyde during its half-life, as well as other useful substances (aspartic acid, fumarate, glutamic acid), act as excellent stimulators of the growth of aquarium plants.

Sidex is not to be found in our city. The most affordable and cheapest option is Aquastop (made by Zoomir). The instruction is slyly silent on information about the chemical composition. Probably so as not to traumatize the imagination of particularly touchy consumers. They will immediately begin to count the 100 gram bottle in arithmetic proportion. And to compare: how much 100 grams of sidex cost, and how much - 100 grams of Aquastop. I will not compare, I am quite satisfied with the cost of Aquastop. And its walking distance in a nearby store.

Aquastop - review and results

The most pesky algae are all gone! The glasses do not turn green, the plants are clean! It remains to finish off the Vietnamese and thread. Even small doses will not give them a chance, you just have to wait a month or two. I have a Vietnamese woman here and there from the current, and from fertilizers. Plants want to eat! It is necessary to fertilize. Algae do not sleep at the same time. We sat down to the "feeding trough". In addition, there is a current in my aquariums, whatever one may say, but in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe filters it is.

The same aquarium 3 weeks later. Plants loved the LED Chinese lamp!

In general, I eventually found a panacea. In the morning I feed the fish, and in all the aquariums I fire-burn - I spray Aquastop from a bottle. It is not difficult to calculate. One press on the bottle is equal to 1 gram. I measured the volume with a syringe. It's easy to get used to it. For the sake of interest and to expand your horizons, you can examine aquarium algae even with a microscope, trying to identify your problem. They are green there you have, brown or black, with dots on glass or tassels on plants. Interesting - delve into. Better yet, take action. Aquastop works against all types of aquarium algae.

P.S. Whoever has the opportunity to purchase Sidex - try to use it. The dosage is the same. And the plants are happy, and there are no algae!

Algae in the aquarium, photos and names

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