Ernie 05-11-2010 16:33
Greetings to all owners of Grand Power products
I had a question about gun oils and carbon removers, I don’t remember in which topic they wrote that not all oils are good for plastic, and I decided to ask what’s better...
I use “Berkut Neutral” and to remove carbon deposits I always used the alkaline composition “Berkut”, but only on the PM, I haven’t shot the T12 yet, I removed the factory grease and lubricated it with “Berkut Neutral” oil...
Sirius828 05-11-2010 17:12
" http://www.bratishka.ru/archiv/2008/2/2008_2_8.php ... The surface of the bores of modern small arms in order to increase their survivability is covered with a layer of chromium - a very hard and corrosion-resistant metal. A layer of chromium in machine gun barrels has a thickness of 25 microns (0.025 mm) and is not without cracks, porous. When fired, carbon deposits clog into the cracks and pores when fired, which absorbs moisture and draws it under the layer of chrome. Therefore, under the layer of chrome, if poorly cleaned or when storing uncleaned barrels, corrosion quickly develops However, there are examples of small arms with non-chrome-plated barrels: SKS carbines manufactured before 1951; Makarov and Stechkin pistols manufactured before 1954; RPG-2 hand-held anti-tank grenade launchers.
When chrome-plated bores corrode, a small rash in the form of tubercles or grains of sand appears on the surface of a seemingly clean (shiny when viewed in the light) bore. If you wipe such a channel with a clean white cloth, a reddish coating of rust will be noticeable on it. The tubercles that appear over time on the surface of a poorly cleaned bore of a chrome-plated barrel are rust crystals that seem to have crawled out from under the chrome layer in places where cracks or pores are located. The adhesion of chromium to the base metal is weakened, and during subsequent shooting, the chromium can be chipped by a bullet and powder gases.
...
A grid of chrome coating in the form of intersecting cracks is usually observed in the breech of the barrel, especially in machine gun barrels. So, when shooting from PKM machine gun, PCMT reticle height appears after 500 shots.
When fired, the surface temperature of the barrel bore reaches 1000 degrees C, which leads to expansion of the bore. From shot to shot, the barrel bore periodically expands and returns to its original state. This leads to the formation of a network of cracks and chrome chips, which are observed mainly at the bullet entrance, in the middle of the rifling and at the side edge in the margins. ..."
ironworker 11-02-2012 07:12
What is the oil that was poured into the soldiers? left side oilers with the letter "Ш"?
There is a suspicion that this is oil with ammonia, but I am not sure...
Angor 11-02-2012 19:35
Not true...(at that time, when these oil cans were invented, copper plating was unheard of...) Alkaline oil (now sold under the brand name "Capercaillie alkaline") for removing carbon deposits...
With uv.
automatiq 11-02-2012 19:44
Rather, it is to neutralize chemically active residues of gunpowder, and especially the primer composition.
shtift1 11-02-2012 20:14
Rather, it is to neutralize chemically active residues of gunpowder, and especially the primer composition.
+1, IMHO, of course, I pour kerosene into this section.
IRMA& 11-02-2012 20:14
quote: Originally posted by Aimed:To remove copper and clean heavily contaminated barrels, the troops used RChS (barrel cleaning solution) - it was prepared immediately before use, it seemed to have a shelf life of a couple of days (I don’t remember exactly)
This is true. Remove the copper plating from the barrel.
vano-sha 11-02-2012 23:41
It removes rye deposits well, but my fingers are ah-ah
AAG 12-02-2012 11:26
The oil is specifically designed to neutralize carbon deposits. It should not be used as a storage lubricant.
DV233 12-02-2012 15:10
The solution for cleaning trunks is not used because it consists of: 3-5g potassium sulfate (potassium chromium is the strongest poison), 200g ammonium sulfate, 1 liter clean water; Shelf life: 7 days in glass containers, in dark place. It is poured into the barrel after firing (the breech is plugged with a fabric plug) where the radioactive substance is located until the weapon is cleaned. Perfectly removes copper and powder deposits. Alkaline oil is used for cleaning weapons as a soot solvent; after its use, the barrel is washed with solvent and preserved with neutral oil. Remember, when using oil, you need to study its temperature range of use. RJ - up to -50 degrees, ZhRS up to +5.
ironworker 12-02-2012 18:33
Potassium sulfate and chrompic are completely different things. Potassium sulfate is not poisonous. Chrompik is potassium bichromate, etched with sulfuric acid, that is, a solution of chromic acid and potassium sulfate in sulfuric acid.
Alkaline oil is used to neutralize the combustion products of corrosive chlorate primers and nothing else.
I would like to know exactly what exactly was used by the troops as “Shch” oil.
DV233 17-02-2012 06:05
I could be wrong, I haven’t looked at the NSD for a long time, but the fact that it is impossible to get CHROMPIC in the RF Armed Forces is certain. Last time I prepared the radio frequency response in 2004 for the Firearms training exam.
Today, the RF Armed Forces use KRM oil, whose properties are similar to universal oil (only it does not remove copper). IN field conditions sometimes I used a mixture of GOI-54p with DT (kerosene), but only for cleaning the weapons of combat vehicles.
For my unit I purchase: alkaline, neutral oil Berkut. Ballistol, Hado, Titan, solvent 646. + copper brushes, brass Vishers.
Shemin 02-03-2012 15:57
Chrompik is a hell of a mixture.
It is used, in particular, in chemical laboratories
when washing glassware for 100% of its purity.
Almost nothing can resist him.
At the same time, the coats on the chemists, from the smallest splashes of chromium, look like they were shot from a six-barreled high-speed aircraft machine gun.
just as smokeless powder is based on nitrocellulose.
It is for this reason that cotton is a strategic raw material,
and not because jeans are made from it all over the world.
By the way, solutions for cleaning barrels containing ammonia
(ammonia in water forms ammonium hydroxide - a weak alkali),
are also intended, among other things,
to neutralize the acidic environment in the barrel and receiver.
First of all, alkaline treatment is necessary for imported trunks -
guarantee against premature corrosion.
And nitric acid is the death of iron, that is, a steel trunk.
Therefore, first of all, we fight acid,
and then with everything else.
Only alkali can neutralize acid (science of chemistry),
but at the same time she is completely indifferent to iron, i.e. to steel.
V1 02-03-2012 18:48
to the left side of the oiler with the letter "Ш"?
It wasn't oil, it was some kind of alkali,
quote: Originally posted by automatiq:
to neutralize chemically active residues of gunpowder, and especially the primer composition.
simply - for cleaning, like ammonia solution, fairy, or Sweets 762
Unlike Russian ones, they are not chrome plated.
and if they are chromed, they won’t peel off at once.
spiritcraft 02-03-2012 21:38
Maybe somewhere they poured oil into oil cans, but not in our company. Even rags were a big problem, what kind of alkaline oil...
ironworker 02-03-2012 22:57
quote: Originally posted by Shemin:
Alkaline oil is used when cleaning weapons
exclusively for the neutralization of nitric acid and its derivatives,
necessarily formed as a result of the combustion of smokeless powder,
just as smokeless powder is based on nitrocellulose.
Someone has deceived you in a childish way.
No nitric acid is released when smokeless powder burns.
Smokeless powder is non-corrosive.
Potassium chlorate primers are corrosive. When potassium chlorate decomposes, potassium chloride and potassium perchlorate are formed. This is what causes rapid corrosion of steel.
Shemin 03-03-2012 18:28
In this case, a military officer chemical protection in reserve,
who, in general, probably has some idea about
how and with what to protect the people's military property,
and what is modern gunpowder, and about the processes that occur during its combustion,
It's not that easy to cheat.
Maybe you can explain to me how potassium chloride, formed from residues of a strong acid
And strong foundation, can corrode the steel barrel, i.e. iron,
the hydroxide of which, as a base, is immeasurably weaker than potassium hydroxide,
and in no case can compete with him?
And trying to neutralize potassium chloride with alkali is the same as trying to make oil more oily with the same oil.
On the other hand, potassium perchlorate is a strong oxidizing agent
(which is why it is sometimes used as part of solid rocket fuel)
and can indeed oxidize iron.
But then what does alkaline oil have to do with it?
Under no circumstances can alkali act as a reducing agent.
to neutralize potassium perchlorate.
And it is more than any inhibitor. (Science chemistry)
Potassium perchlorate is salt, and it should be simply trivial, mechanical,
remove with brushes, "neers", "tampons", oil, etc. along with carbon deposits, if the oil contains no additives against it.
But the smallest traces of nitric acid - one of the strongest acids (part of "aqua regia")
And strong oxidizing agent(part of liquid rocket fuel)
and its organic derivatives, which are actually formed during the combustion of smokeless powder - NITROcellulose (PLEASE READ)
really enough to create pockets of corrosion in the barrel.
And this is where you really need to consume lye.
mars1923 23-01-2013 09:23
Tell me, is it possible to use alkaline wood grouse to remove carbon deposits and foreign particles on aluminum alloys. like in the photo
mars1923 23-01-2013 09:27
Japhar_7.62 23-01-2013 17:24
V1 23-01-2013 20:13
quote: Originally posted by automatiq:
More likely for neutralization... and especially the capsule composition.
quote: Originally posted by zhelezyachnik:
Potassium chlorate capsules are corrosive. When potassium chlorate decomposes, potassium chloride and potassium perchlorate are formed. This is what causes rapid corrosion of steel.
+2
quote: Originally posted by Japhar_7.62:
And I'm not reinventing the wheel. Household chemicals and a hose with warm water allow you to clean the barrel of any weapon from any contamination. Then drying and treating the barrel bore with neutral oil. And nothing rusts.
The cost of a modern hunting rifle can rival the cost of a classy car, and in some cases even exceed it. Of course, like a car, a gun needs maintenance after use. We will show you how to properly clean your weapon after a hunt and try to dispel existing misconceptions.
Thanks to careful care and handling hunting weapon can serve faithfully for many decades. Conversely, if you are not careful, the gun will break down within a few years, or even months.
Each hunter has his own opinion on how to care for a weapon. Some open gun safe once every two to three years, others – several times a day. Both are wrong. For example, you went hunting, shot and are going to return. Many believe that cleaning weapons can be postponed until you arrive home, because modern guns have chrome-plated barrels on the inside, which, it would seem, a short time nothing will happen. But how correct is this? Let's be honest: such an attitude is unacceptable, regardless of what kind of gun we are talking about - a Russian TOZ or an imported weapon.
You need to start cleaning your gun right away, right during the hunt. Of course, if there is complete confidence that you won’t have to shoot today. The most important thing is to approach the cleaning of barrels correctly, since they bear the main load when fired and have a significant impact on the action of the gun. If this is not done in a timely manner, then shells will soon form in the bores of the barrels, and then rust. Therefore, regardless of whether the barrels are chrome-plated or not, immediately after shooting they should be treated with any oil composition in an aerosol package. These include special gun lubricants of domestic production, and imported non-special products - WD-40, LM-40 and many others. They have one similarity - aerosol packaging, which makes it much easier to use. After finishing shooting, it is enough to open the gun and inject liquid into the barrels from the breech side. During the time it takes you to get home, the composition will do its job: soften the remaining soot. But, despite the fact that the ingredients have the same packaging, their effects are not the same. For example, domestically produced neutral gun lubricant has very weak penetrating properties, so its exposure time is quite long - up to two to three days. But it takes a very long time to weather and perfectly protects the metal. Imported WD-40 and LM-40 have a very liquid consistency, and therefore have high penetrating properties. They instantly saturate the carbon deposits and penetrate well into the entire depth of the formed rust. But all this is just a prelude. The very sacrament of the action called “cleaning the gun” begins, as a rule, later, immediately after returning from the hunt.
Regardless of how and where the weapon was transported - in the car, in the trunk, in a hard or soft case - you should wait at least an hour until the condensation completely disappears. The latter forms on all parts of the gun due to a temperature change when the weapon goes from cold to warm. Cleaning a weapon requires not only physical strength, but also a set of special devices, rags and oil. It is important to know that a steel spiral brush for removing lead can only be used for older guns whose barrels are not chrome-plated. After all, chromium is a viscous and loose metal, so it is very easy to damage. To remove lead coatings in chrome-plated barrels, you can use a brush made of brass and copper. Spiral brushes are, as a rule, not used for cleaning chrome-plated barrels. In addition to brushes, cleaning rods are used for cleaning trunks, which can be non-assembled or prefabricated. The latter are used more often. The prefabricated cleaning rod consists of three or four elbows, twisted together with special threaded bushings.
They are made of wood, plastic or aluminum. IN Lately a lot of cleaning rods made of brass rod appeared. Which to choose? This is a personal matter for everyone. For one person, a plastic ramrod is inconvenient because it slips in the hands. For others, an aluminum cleaning rod is not suitable, as it gets your hands dirty and leaves marks on the wood of the gun that are difficult to remove. Many people, in the old fashioned way, prefer the good old wooden cleaning rod - it doesn’t slip, doesn’t get your hands dirty, and doesn’t break, unlike a thin cleaning rod made of brass rod. But you can clean your weapon without using a cleaning rod. In this case, the ruffs or visher are secured on a special twine, which is pulled through the trunks. Before you start cleaning, you need to remove the shoulder strap from the gun and prepare everything you need. It is best to clean the gun directly in your hands, and not, for example, on desk. All accessories, oils, etc. It's better to put it nearby. It is advisable to install a switched-on table lamp at a distance of several meters, by looking at it through the trunks you can control the quality of cleaning. It is very convenient and pleasant to clean your gun in front of the fireplace. The reflection of the flame is an excellent way to determine whether lead remains in the barrel.
First, a visher is screwed onto the cleaning rod, and a clean white rag is placed on it - with its help, softened carbon deposits are removed from the barrels. Attention! Do not use the same rag when cleaning several trunks. If the rags come out of the barrels without traces of oil, it’s time to start dry cleaning. To do this, use a cleaning rod with a brass or steel brush attached to it. After this procedure, traces of lead plating left by the projectile appear on the inside of the barrels. But after passing through the rags they were practically invisible. Sometimes dry cleaning of trunks is called “loosening”, since this changes the structure of the lead coatings and alkaline oil penetrates well into them. To distinguish a neutral lubricant from an alkaline one, it is enough to lubricate it with sandpaper. brass sleeve. If the sleeve darkens after a while, it means the lubricant is alkaline. The barrels are lubricated with alkaline oil using the same cleaning rod with a visor screwed onto it. However, you should not cheat on the visher a large number of rags that will hardly pass along the bore. It is best to make a small winding, moisten it generously with alkaline oil and, lightly touching the walls of the trunks, coat them liberally without gaps.
You can successfully use an ordinary bristly brush for this. It is impossible not to take into account the possible undesirable effect of alkaline oil on the external parts of the gun - on the bluing, wood. Therefore, only the inside of the trunks is treated with alkaline oil. After treating the barrels with alkaline oil, you should leave them for a while and begin cleaning the locking part of the gun. To do this, use a rag lightly moistened with neutral oil to wipe all metal parts of the locks without disassembling them. Inner part The locks are lubricated with the same neutral lubricant, dripping into the slots of the triggers and the firing pin shafts. They also lubricate the locking part of the gun barrel lock and the fuse. During the time you cleaned the locks, the lead coating in the barrels under the influence of alkaline oil loosens and is easily separated. Remove them using a steel or brass brush without removing the previously applied alkaline grease. After the lead has been completely removed, the barrels are wiped with a clean rag until all remaining oil is removed and the inside is lubricated with ordinary neutral oil.
The outer metal parts of the gun are coated with neutral oil and lightly polished with a clean rag. The gun should be left in this condition for several days (usually three to four days). During this time, a small amount of lead and soot will be released from the pores of the metal barrels into the oil. Then the cleaning of the barrels is repeated. The quality of cleaning the trunks is determined by the cleanliness of the rags - if it is dirty, it means that the cleaning was done poorly and it is advisable to repeat it in a few days.
You need to be careful when cleaning guns with choke choke constrictions: a brush that has completely jumped out through them, as a rule, goes back in with great effort. Therefore, it is better to remove it from the cleaning rod to avoid breakage, and to clean the barrels in a vertical position, resting the muzzles on the floor, on which a newspaper is spread in advance. When cleaning the weapon, make sure that no oil gets on the wooden parts. To care for them, use special furniture polishes in a matte or glossy shade. If gun oil does get on the wood, it should be removed by wiping the surface with a dry cloth.
It is best to store weapons in a safe in a lubricated state. However, before leaving for your next hunt, you should take out the gun and remove any remaining lubricant. This is especially true for barrels, since the remaining lubricant contributes to increased deposition of lead on them.
Modern science does not stand still, and from time to time new weapons cleaning products appear on the market, making it easy to remove soot and lead from barrels. However, anything new should be treated with great caution. For example, the currently commercially available barrel cleaning composition contains ammonia. This certainly makes the gun easier to clean, but the water present in the base of this cleaning agent gets on the external parts of the gun, in particular on the blued parts and parts made of light alloys, destroying the coating and leaving whitish stains. So you shouldn’t take risks by choosing an untested product. Old helpers, alkaline and neutral oils released by modern technologies, is the best thing that can be recommended today for cleaning weapons.
- Articles » Professionals
- Mercenary 6411 0
It is of primary importance, since the safety of the weapon and the absence of signs of corrosion, which destroys the gun, depend on it.
It will not be a revelation that after hunting you need to immediately clean your gun, since oxidation processes start instantly and the gun barrels begin to become covered with rust.
If you are irresponsible about cleaning and lubricating your gun, this will inevitably lead to the appearance of a rash and large cavities in the barrel. Some might say that rashes and blisters are not a problem, since the gun shoots well even with such manifestations.
We can agree with this, but only partially, since the shells in the barrel develop at high speed, and as a result, the gun will quickly turn into a piece of useless iron.
Lubrication of a gun is a mandatory activity that every hunter must carry out at certain intervals.
Lubricant for hunting rifles
Every metal part of a hunting rifle requires lubrication with special gun oil. A special place in this process is occupied by gun barrels, which are lubricated with a generous amount of lubricant.
There are several types of gun oil that need to be used to keep the gun in good condition for many years.
Before cleaning the bores, suitable oil, which can help remove traces of carbon deposits and lead, is an alkaline oil for cleaning hunting rifles.
This oil should be applied generously into the bore after removing carbon deposits using a regular rag.
The barrel of a gun with alkaline oil applied must be left for 30 minutes so that the lead or carbon deposits begin to break down.
After this, you can quite easily remove carbon deposits from the bores. The end of this activity is the thorough removal of alkaline oil from the trunks.
Like this gun lubricant is used with alkaline oil, but there is another oil that is used to lubricate the barrel and metal parts of the gun on a daily basis or for a long period of time.
The most suitable for such purposes is neutral gun oil. It is this oil that is used to preserve the gun for a long time during the off-season or as a daily lubricant.
The gun should be lubricated with neutral oil once a month to maintain normal level lubricant, which ensures the safety and protection of your weapon from corrosion.
Any weapon needs thorough cleaning and lubrication after each actual use. This applies to both those units that use a cartridge with powder charge(in particular) and pneumatic barrels operating on gas cylinders. Gun oil Golden eagle allows you to take care of own weapons more thoroughly and fully, and therefore it should be available to every gun owner.
Use of gun oil "Berkut"
Berkut gun oil, which you can buy using the services of our online store, has two main modifications. It is necessary to talk in more detail about the effect they have on the surfaces being treated and how to use them correctly.
Alkaline oil Berkut is intended for removing oxides from the surface of contaminated metal parts. Treatment with it is necessary regularly. A small percentage of active is added to the oil chemical compound- caustic sodium - which readily reacts with any salts and iron oxides, and also softens carbon deposits and other mechanical impurities. Alkaline gun oil Berkut acts approximately the same as a solution baking soda to remove household contaminants - but the effect is much stronger, and the depth of penetration is greater.
Thanks to the use of this oil, there is no need for too active cleaning of parts and components with a brush, which often leads to a decrease in the accuracy of the shot due to abrasion of the rifling and increased play of moving elements. Pollution comes off much more readily. It is worth noting, however, that only owners of weapons with gunpowder cartridges will need to buy Berkut gun oil in the alkaline variation.
Neutral gun oil Berkut is used exclusively for lubrication, as it does not enter into chemical reactions with soot and rust. It is necessary to process components with its help only after preliminary cleaning. In this case, the metal will be reliably protected from contact with oxygen (and, therefore, from rusting) by a thin film of oil.
It is worth noting separately that Berkut neutral oil is used to lubricate exclusively steel parts of weapons. Before processing, you must make sure that all wooden overlays and decorative elements have been removed, since wood, after contact with oil, loses its natural elasticity and cracks and breaks more easily.
For ease of storing and using gun oil, reliable cupronickel ones with the letters Ш and Н are used, which means there are containers for alkaline and neutral oils. Or they use .
Neutral gun oil Berkut for pneumatics is used regularly, regardless of whether shooting is carried out using gas weapons or not. It does not need cleaning due to the absence of mechanical impurities when fired, but it also needs thorough lubrication, like gunpowder.
Buy gun oil "Berkut" from us!
We know a lot about weapons and know what to advise you for quality care behind him. You can order Berkut weapon oil in the offered assortment, which is quite enough for the full treatment of any weapon, directly on this page.
The quality of the product is guaranteed by its manufacturer - this brand is very popular and in high demand. Berkut gun oil, which you can buy from us at fairly reasonable prices, can be purchased in any quantity convenient for you (if the required quantity is in stock) and delivered to your home along with other purchases. This oil is sold in plastic bottles with a squeeze spout, the capacity of which is 150 ml.
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