To get to know the Baltics, you need to visit all three countries: Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia. Some of you will say that the Baltic states are not only the countries listed above, but we will only touch on them. First of all, we will visit three capitals: Riga, Vilnius and Tallinn. It is advisable to visit them in the same weather and with the same mood, so that nothing interferes with comparing these three cities. Don't listen to anyone who says that this or that is more beautiful or interesting. They are all interesting, beautiful and in general everyone has their own opinion. I’ve been to the Baltics several times and liked some things better, so I tried to include this in the itinerary. The route program is designed so that you can complete it in a week. So: St. Petersburg - Tallinn - Cesis - Sigulda - Riga - Bauska - Siauliai - Kaunas - Vilnius - Daugavpils - Rezekne - St. Petersburg. These are the key points, now in more detail:

St. Petersburg – Tallinn

I will not dwell in detail on preparing the car, documents, etc. You can't predict everything. However, recently, I take at least two navigators on the road. I trust booking.com more and more and, if possible, return to cash. Don’t forget that it is difficult to cross the Estonian border back and you have to buy a queue, so we return through Latvia.

The distance from St. Petersburg to Tallinn is 362 kilometers and the estimated travel time is about 5 hours, not counting the time spent at customs. It’s best to move around while everyone is asleep, so we leave at about 4 am. We'll be at the border around 6, and then depending on our luck. To sufficiently familiarize yourself with the Old Town of Tallinn, 4 hours are needed. For those who like it slower, this time is not enough.

Car parks near the Old Town cost 3-4 euros per hour, there are cheaper ones nearby, but it is not a fact that there will be free spaces. If we compare hotel prices in all three capitals, then Tallinn and Riga are approximately the same, but Vilnius is cheaper, but no worse.

For me, Tallinn is always different in its impact. Sometimes I admire him, and sometimes I find him boring, apparently it depends on my mood, mood and company. In the “Old Town”, in addition to the main attractions, such as:

City Hall

The Dome Cathedral

Oleviste Church

Niguliste Church

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Fortress towers and walls

St. John's Church

... there are many beautiful and back streets, corners, courtyards. There are several observation platforms that offer beautiful views of the city. Lots of shops and interesting cafes. The architecture here is very different, from different eras, styles and “nationalities”.

I will never forget the impressions of my first visit to Tallinn. It was on the New Year 2007, when they started trying to take tourists from Helsinki to Stockholm to Tallinn. The first sign was the passenger ship Vana-Tallin, that is, “Old Tallinn,” not to be confused with the drink of the same name. And, by the way, it justified its name - it was built in 1974. That year there was no winter and no ice either. In Helsinki on January 1 it was +6, and in Stockholm +8. When we were walking from Helsinki to Stockholm we encountered a terrible storm and people, remembering this night, already leaving Stockholm for Tallinn, “pulled up” tightly so that they could fall asleep and not hang around the decks, clinging to everything they could and to each other. We all arrived in Tallinn a little rumpled, but in anticipation of new impressions. We were given buses, guides and some time to explore the city. We gathered for a whole hour and waited for those who were late, then we drove around Tallinn and listened to the guide, who did not really hide her hatred of everything Russian. Having dropped us off at the walls of the “Old City” and handed us over to another guide, she left with the bus. The first words of the “new” guide were: “Forget everything she said,” “now let’s run, we don’t have much time.” We seemed to be keeping up, but at the next turn the guide disappeared. 15 minutes have passed since the start of his excursion. There were half of us, we spat and went our separate ways. It was dank, damp, cold and windy outside. Only in the evening, when the garlands were lit and the wind died down, it became better, warmer and much more beautiful. This is what they were like – first impressions.

If you are not going to visit a pub in the evening or just look at the city at night, then you can stop for the night on the way towards Riga. I stayed at Ruunawere Hotel, near Tallinn, and really liked it. There is a small sketch about the hotel in the “Video” section. In general, there are many interesting places to spend the night: estates; guest houses; cottages, etc. If you plan your trip 21 days in advance or less, you may be able to get exclusive deals on hotel bookings, but you probably already know that. If you plan to stay in the city, I recommend Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark. Convenient, cozy, close to the “Old Town”, a good restaurant and after long walks you can lie in the jacuzzi, relax your muscles or swim.

Cesis-Sigulda

From Tallinn to Cesis (Sigulda) is about 300 kilometers. The time is about 4 hours. You can go in three ways, but the easiest way is through Pärnu. After Pärnu the road goes along the coast and if it’s summer outside, you can turn to the sea and swim and sunbathe. Relax in one word. The main attractions of Sigulda and Cesis cannot be seen in one day, even briefly, so plan to spend the night somewhere. Both of these cities are approximately the same distance from Riga, Sigulda is a little closer, where you stay does not play a special role.

The area around these two cities is a real hub of medieval castles, various attractions, and there is a lot to see and do. Residents of Riga think the same thing, which is why it can get crowded on weekends. Draw conclusions.

Let's start with Cesis. Here is the largest and best preserved…

Cessian (Wenden) Castle

A beautiful park at the foot of the castle is conducive to a leisurely walk and relaxation. The castle itself is nothing special, it’s just interesting to touch the history, take the likeness of an old lantern and walk along the dark staircases and alleys. Near the old castle there is

New Cession Castle

There are now ticket offices here, as well as history and art museums. Located almost close to these castles

St. John's Church

This majestic structure is the largest church in Latvia built outside of Riga (13th century). She belonged to the Livonian Order.

In addition to the main attractions, it is very pleasant to stroll through the wooden residential area. Pleasant houses that have seen many interesting stories provide an opportunity to take a break from the “concrete jungle” of big cities.

Not far from Cesis there is another attraction of the local region, the so-called

Araiši Lake Castle

Here, in the 19th-11th centuries, the Latgalians lived. A fairly large area for a walk, where you can get acquainted with ancient life and buildings, the ruins of the Araish Order Castle and the lake settlement.

Here are the must-sees in the area:

Turaida Castle

Old Sigulda Castle

New Sigulda Castle

Of course, there is plenty more to do here besides the castles. Huge park, zoos, cable cars, caves, etc. In winter the ski slopes are open. This is one of the best bobsleigh tracks.

In these parts I stayed only in one hotel - Hotel Atputa, it is located in Cesis. Quiet, cozy hotel, good restaurant, friendly service.

Riga

It takes less than an hour to travel from Sigulda to Riga. As soon as I enter Riga, I can’t get rid of the feeling that I’m driving through the outskirts of St. Petersburg. The building of the Latvian Academy completes the image of a large, Soviet city. Only in the “Old Town” do you come to your senses and return to the tourist skin. It is better to park the car on the embankment side. Before I forget, the police in Latvia are the same as in Russia. They like to test for alcohol, set up an ambush, and “pay off on the spot.” If there is something written in Latvian on the parking signs, it is better not to stop there, you will be fined. Alcohol: Estonia (0.2 volume), Latvia (0.5 volume), Lithuania (0.4 volume). I don't want to get caught.

Riga is different! Different than Tallinn. Firstly, there is no difference in heights, and therefore everything is located, as it were, on the same plane, along the Daugava embankment. By the way, be sure to visit the other side of the river, from there a beautiful panorama of the “Old City” opens up. All the attractions are quite tightly packed. In order to explore absolutely the entire “Old City”, you will more than once go to places that you have already seen. This is not “running in circles,” but somewhere close. The architecture of Tallinn is diverse and multinational, and in Riga a certain style is maintained.

I have long noticed that tourists equally like both large, huge churches or castles, and very small, even tiny “cartoons”, such as the St. Petersburg “Chizhik-Pyzhik”. And everywhere, in any city in the world, the reaction to them is the same. You should definitely pet them or throw a coin, and, of course, take a photo. One of these Riga “muleks” is the monument to the “Bremen Town Musicians”, almost a copy of the same one located in their hometown. Here, the attraction program also includes bouncing. Everyone tries to pet the animal that is higher up. Walking around Old Riga, you will often see unusual figures and installations.

The Bremen Town Musicians

Now, let's go over the main attractions of the "Old City"

House of the Blackheads

The Dome Cathedral

Church of St. Peter and panoramas from the observation deck.

Town Hall and Town Hall Square

Riga Castle

Church of Our Lady of Sorrows

In Soviet times, as soon as it was necessary to show “abroad”, all film studios went to Riga, here every house, every crossroads was used as scenery. “Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson” lived here, the spy passions “Seventeen Moments of Spring” were played out, and the songs “D’Artagnan and the Three Musketeers” were sung.

When it comes to having a bite to eat in Riga, the choice is huge and the price tags are already quite affordable. If you have heard about LIDO, then I would not recommend visiting it in the “Old Town”, you can spoil the impression, it is better to go to the LIDO Recreation Center on Krasta Street 76. The food there is excellent, tasty and not expensive.

LIDO

For tourists with children, I advise you to see the Riga Zoo and its guests. In general, Riga is a wonderful city and I think you will want to come here more than once, to see not only it, but also the surrounding area, such as Jurmala, Jaunmokas Castle, and the Daugava Museum. Or spend a summer night on the streets and in the pubs of the “Old Town”, which never sleeps.

Bauska Rundāle Palace

If you have already seen everything in Riga and are not going to stay overnight, you can head towards the town of Bauska. More precisely, our goal is Rundāle Palace. The drive is about an hour, and I can recommend the hotel Hotel Rundale. It is very advantageously located just 250 meters from the palace itself.

The town of Bauska is not big at all, but there are many interesting places here. There are churches, old quarters, Bauska Castle. Delicious Latvian beer is brewed here. On the Town Hall Square you can have a nice and tasty meal in a cafe. But due to the fact that we visited this city only for the Rundāle Palace, that’s where we will go.

The palace belonged to Duke Ernst Johann Biron. It was built in 1740. In the same year, Biron, after a coup d'etat, was arrested and exiled, returning only in 1763. At the same time, by 1768, Rastrelli completed the interior decoration of the premises.

The palace amazes with its exquisite interiors and rich decoration. Unfortunately, I was there in the winter, and I was not able to see the splendor of the flowering French park, spread over an area of ​​10 hectares, closed on all sides by a canal, behind which, in turn, lies a hunting park.

I am constantly doing something in the palace, restoring, decorating, caring for, restoring, even clothes. Everything is sparkling clean and you can feel the love with which the local workers treat the exhibits. The palace and its decoration left an indelible impression in the memory. I will definitely come in the summer to take a walk in the garden and park.

Cross Mountain. Siauliai

Frenkel Palace

Now we are heading towards Lithuania, more precisely, towards the city of Siauliai. A little before reaching the city, we make an obligatory stop at Krestovaya Gora or the Mountain of Crosses. This is one of the most unexpected sights of the entire route. To be honest, I didn’t know what to expect, but I had heard a lot and was ready to be surprised, but not that much. Crosses from all over the world are actually brought here and this is truly a Mountain of Crosses.

The place is shrouded in legends. Under Soviet rule, it was destroyed 4 times, but the Mountain has not gone away, and there are more and more crosses. Even the Pope “marked himself” here with a rather impressive cross. Our crosses, like droplets of water, melted into a sea of ​​huge waves of crosses.

Even if this place initially did not carry any energy load, the millions of prayers and aspirations that came here imbued this place with faith. There are no restrictions, orders, regulations that are so loved in churches of various denominations; here a person is alone - face to face with his feelings, with God.

The next destination of our journey will be the city of Siauliai. We were passing through there, stopped to have a snack, stroll along the pedestrian street, and go to the Cathedral. The weather was disgusting, and we were in a hurry towards Kaunas, so I can’t say anything special about this town. There was an attempt to visit the cat museum, but after sticking our nose in there, we decided not to waste time.

Now we are going to one of the most beautiful cities in the Baltics - Kaunas, it is called “Beautiful”. And there is no doubt that you should stop there for the night.

Kaunas

It often happens that people go to capitals, but nearby cities, which have no less interesting things, pass by. Kaunas does not complain about the lack of tourists, but undeservedly fewer people go there than to Vilnius and Trakai. Kaunas is great. IMHO, of course, but even the weather didn’t stop me from just falling in love with this city.

The "Old Town" of Vilnius is large, spacious, mostly pedestrian, under UNESCO protection. I really enjoyed walking leisurely along the main streets and squares, but there are a lot of people there, but if you turn somewhere to the side, after a couple of minutes it becomes simply deserted and you can get lost. I parked my car in one of the parking lots in the southern part of the “Old City”, put a mark in the navigator, relied on the technology, and went on a reckless exploration, instead of taking chalk and leaving marks on houses and sidewalks. Got lost. And parking is paid and by the hour, the fines are large, it’s unpleasant. The conclusion is that you need to park the car in the northern part, where the Castle Hill and Gedeminas Tower are. If this landmark falls out of your sight, people will help. And I couldn’t even really explain to passers-by where my car was parked “next to the church or church.” Yes, there are them here... . Now, with the advent of new gadgets and applications, it has become much easier.

What interesting things can you see in the “Old Town”?

Church of St. Casemir

Presidential palace

Cathedral of St. Nicholas

Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnitskaya Church)

Cathedral

Sharp gate

Bernardine Church and St. Anne's Church

In addition, there is also: Gedemin's Tower, the Church of St. Teresa, Church of the Holy Spirit, Church of the Holy Trinity, bastion of the Vilnius defensive wall, Church of St. John, Church of St. Michael, Church of St. Anne, Church of St. Ignatius and the Jesuit monastery, Alumnat, the Church of St. Catherine, Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Church of St. Nicholas, etc., etc. This is not all, and this is only in the “Old Town” itself. Now can you imagine how difficult it was to find the right church, church or temple?

One of the most pleasant impressions is the prices. In cafes, restaurants, hotels, etc. Whether in the business center or in the “Old Town,” there are many places where you can pleasantly spend the evening, night, and the rest of the day. We ate, rested, ate some more and hit the road. Now in the opposite direction, home. The intermediate point will be Daugavpils and you can spend the night there or see the city and drive to the small town of Rezekne and stay there.

Daugavpils-Rezekne

Daugavpils is the same city in which I was once again convinced of how much the weather influences perception, first impressions, and, finally, photographs. The first time I was there in terrible, disgusting, dirty weather, I was passing through, and the second time - excellent weather, warm, no rush, wonderful hotel, leisurely promenade. Earth and sky. Great town, beautiful, interesting. The most important attraction, or rather “mountain of attractions” is the “church hill”. Here, literally meters from each other, there are four churches of different faiths.

Martin Luther Cathedral

Roman Catholic Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary

Daugavpils Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Princes Boris and Gleb

Novosretensky Church of the Resurrection, Nativity of the Virgin Mary and St. Nicholas (Old Believers)

In the city itself there is a small pedestrian street where you can just walk and look around. There is a fortress here, it is a certain symbol of the city. In terms of accommodation, I can recommend the Park Hotel Latgola, it is located in the center, modern, not expensive, there are often special offers (double standard - 2000 rubles), the upper floors offer a panoramic view of the city. If you are unlucky with the weather, then it is better to leave exploring this city for another time, and go towards the town of Rezekne and stop to rest there.

To view information about Rezekne or Daugavpils (any other object), click on the name. We stopped in Rezekne only to rest before the final rush to the house. We walked around, had a good time in the restaurant of our hotel Kolonna Hotel Rezekne, and got up early (at 4 am), took “breakfast to go”, pre-ordered at the hotel, and headed towards the border.

From Daugavpils to the border it takes 2 hours, from Rezekne 40 minutes. Arriving at the border at about 5 am, we found the customs office really sleeping, we had to wake up to let them through. It’s a nightmare, they could “infiltrate” unnoticed and take out the entire Baltic states. That's basically it. The route, as you understand, can easily change; for example, you can organize everything with a mirror opposite. And from Tallinn go to Helsinki. 2-3 hours by ferry and you are in the capital of Finland. And there is already all of Scandinavia in front of us.

On my website in the section for tourists there is a “Planner”, where you can view the route and description, calculate mileage, fuel and estimate time. I wish you a good time in the Baltics. Gain new impressions and just have a good rest.

It so happens that PRTBRT often broadcasts from the Baltic countries - one of its editorial bases is located in Latvia. We often look at how our friends and acquaintances travel around Latvia, Estonia and Lithuania and clutch our heads. That’s why we decided to write this column about how to truly experience these small countries, where you really have to look for the flavor.

Do not take the route Tallinn - Riga - Vilnius at once

For several days you just walk around the Old Towns of the three capitals, drink, eat, stare and spend money, and then say: yes, I was in this Baltics, everything is the same. Although all three cities are unique and very different, this can only be understood by visiting each one separately.

During a trip to three capitals you will remember some passages, but everything will stick together into one lump of cathedrals, towers, food and booze. And at the same time, each city has its own face and its own unusual places that you most likely will not see. Simply because the “three (five, seven) days - three cities” format does not imply anything other than an endless race and walks in the Old Town together with British lovers of cheap flights to stag parties and getting drunk, old people and tourists from ferries.

Advice: Don't be fooled by the size of the countries - each is best viewed individually. Therefore, do not try to travel around everything during the allotted vacation time.

Old town of Tallinn

But if you do go, don’t spend all your time in the Old Town

As already mentioned, each city has its own face and its own places of power: in Tallinn this is the Telliskivi district, which is located outside the Old Town. In Riga, for example, the best bars have never been located within the Old Town: just go for a walk along Krisjan Barona Street and turn into small streets. This is where the most interesting places and establishments will be, such as the editor’s favorite bar - Taka or the city's most current dance floor - Piens.

In the Old Town there is average entertainment, typical bars and restaurants, of which there are many in any city in Eastern and Northern Europe from Krakow to Stockholm. This is not why you come to see the country.

Advice: If you know that there is no life in the Old Town, then there is no need to rent housing there either. Look for apartments on Airbnb or hotels near places of power: you will save both time and money.

Telliskivi district in Tallinn

Another cool place outside of the old town of Riga – Kaņepes Kultūras centrs

Don't linger in cities

You won't get to see the country in cities, so be sure to plan to visit alternative or out-of-town attractions.

From Tallinn you can easily go to see the quarry in Rumma (there is still room to climb through, don’t be scared by the fence), and then go to the island of Saaremaa, where there are almost more attractions than in all of Estonia.

From Riga you should definitely go to Irbene - a ghost town with a huge radar, spend the night on Cape Kolka, see the seaside Ventspils and Liepaja. Who even knows about the existence of the Mark Rothko art center in Daugavpils? The famous artist was born in this city.

From Vilnius you should definitely go to the Hill of Crosses, visit the Europos Parkas landscape park - an analogue of the Russian Nikola-Lenivets, explore Klaipeda and cross the border with Russia on the Curonian Spit.

All three countries have many opportunities for diverse tourism: alternative attractions, eco-farms and national parks - plan your route so that you can stay in the capitals for one or two days, get acquainted with the main places and cultural life, and then go deeper!

Countries are replete with craft, family-run productions of everything from cheese to amber. A fair is held annually in Latvia, where you can buy not just handmade things, but modern and beautiful accessories and clothes. It’s nice to use such things not because they are crafted, but simply because they are convenient and beautiful.

Mountain of Crosses

Quarry in Rummu

But if you are still delayed, be sure to travel out of town at least one day

If it’s already late and you stay in each of the capitals for three days, then don’t be sad: there are many interesting places around each of the cities:

near Vilnius - the beautiful Trakai Castle;

from Riga you should definitely go to Jurmala or the Kemeri National Park;

From Tallinn, go to Laachema National Park.

By the way, the locations from the previous paragraph also apply to this: this is the Baltics, and you can go back and forth to any place within one country! The main thing is not to be lazy and plan. It’s entirely possible to rent a car for one or two days, or find a driver using BlaBlaCar, use Lux Express buses, or maybe even stop hitchhiking. In summer, Estonia is overrun by friendly Finns, and Latvia and Lithuania are overrun by Poles and Germans (and less wary tourists in Russian cars).

Kemeri National Park

Spend more time searching

Not all good hotels, campsites and guesthouses are available on the usual booking sites. For example, the editor’s favorite campsite Saulesmājas with barrel houses on Cape Kolka (another chic Latvian location - the meeting place of the waves of the Baltic Sea and the Gulf of Riga) appeared on booking.com only in May of this year!

Or another great option is the Klaukas glamping site in the area of ​​Sigulda and the Gauja National Park. And this is just what is on the surface - there are dozens of such places, but you will have to prepare well and search.

Camping Saulesmājas

Don’t forget that these are already different countries

If in the minds of the older generation this is still a homogeneous Baltic region, then the modern traveler is struck by striking differences: Estonia and especially Tallinn are full-fledged Northern Europe, Lithuania gravitates towards Poland, and Latvia is still at an undefined crossroads, but with European features. At the same time, each of these countries has preserved unique original places and cultural features. Understanding this simple fact will help you take a different look at these neighboring countries and choose the one that is closer in spirit for a full-fledged trip!

Check tickets to Tallinn, or maybe Riga or Vilnius

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In order not to spoil the impression of a trip to the Baltics from Moscow by car, here you need to follow several mandatory rules. When traveling to Latvia and Lithuania, remember that you need to turn on low beam headlights, buckle up yourself and all passengers in the car, the speed in the city is no more than 50 km/h - here it is customary not to rush anywhere.

There are no motorways in Latvia. The entire 300 km from the Russian border to the Riga seaside must be crawled at a speed of 90 km/h. Exceeding up to 20 km/h – fine 5 lats. To accelerate to 110 km/h costs 20 lats. To go faster, you need to find some kind of sponsor - a car driving in front of you at a speed of 120 km/h. But the trick may not work: in patrol cars, the radar shows two speeds at once - the first car and the fastest one in the stream.

The famous Latvian racing driver Arnis Punka only drives fast in a sports car. Adrenaline is for rallying, and in Riga there is nowhere to rush.

Do not try to go to the historical center - old Riga. There are barriers at the entrance, and payment cards are sold only in two institutions, but it takes longer to find them. And there is no point in going there - the entire distance can be covered on foot in 10 minutes.

If you exceed the paid parking time, you will find a pink blocking shoe on the wheel. It will be removed only if you pay the required amount. And if you stand under the sign, you will soon see a mustard plaster on the glass - a fine of 10 lats in the name of the owner of the car. If the fine for violating traffic rules is not paid, then they will simply not let you through at the border until you pay the fine.

Old Riga breathes the Middle Ages: the Dome Cathedral has been rising on Dome Square for 800 years, a little further - the Dominican monastery with the cellars of the Holy Inquisition, crooked narrow streets covered with paving stones, which you saw in the movies in the films “17 Moments of Spring”, “The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson."

And from here to the sea is 15 minutes by car. Getting to Jurmala is very simple: from anywhere in the city we find a cable-stayed bridge, it is also called a balalaika, we drive onto it and continue straight on. You will not have time to leave Riga and you will already be in Jurmala. Entry costs money, and payment is made at a special site. You need to pay one lat and you can drive all day.

Municipal police officers monitor stowaway cars. The locals have a pass on their glass. In Jurmala itself, police officers ride scooters and control parking lots, handing out mustard plasters. Entry to the shore is prohibited. Look for parking and walk through the dunes. When leaving, do not leave things in the car.

In the Baltics, beware of pedestrians. It is customary here to let people pass at the zebra crossing, otherwise there is a huge fine of 40 lats. Citizens can go out onto the road without looking back. There are not only high fines, but also a point system: 16 points – deprivation of rights for a year. And one more thing: it’s legal to drink and drive here. After drinking a glass of wine or a mug of beer, you can still get behind the wheel.

In front of the city of Siauliai, do not miss the sign “Mountain of Crosses to the left 2 km.” Some are delighted with this place, others are horrified. There are no graves here, only crosses. They cover a small hill and its surroundings. The most original cross was placed at the foot of the hill by Moscow motorists. It is made from road signs.

We set off along the most interesting roads of Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia. This trip will allow you not only to get acquainted with the main historical and architectural monuments, sights, culture and traditions of the Baltic countries, but also to have a great rest.

Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia are three small states on the Baltic Sea. The history, traditions and flavor of these countries are directly related to the sea. In addition, these lands historically found themselves at the junction of two civilizations - Catholic and Orthodox, so it is not surprising that from the Middle Ages until the twentieth century there was a constant struggle here, which had a significant impact on the features of the local architecture. Nowadays, only the ruins of majestic castles and fortresses and amazingly beautiful bas-reliefs that can be found in Tallinn, Riga and other old cities remind us of the Order of the Swordsmen or the Livonian Knights in the Baltics.

But times have changed. Today, calm and harmony reign in this region. The leisurely, measured way of Baltic life seems to transport you to another world, where there is no fuss and haste, and time obeys only the rhythms of nature. It is not customary to build fences around houses here, and, for example, Tallinn at night is perhaps one of the calmest cities in the world. If you strive for even greater solitude and complete harmony with nature, we recommend going to the islands of Muhu or Saaremaa. And when you have rested and tuned in to the rhythm of the modern Baltic states, it’s time to take an excursion into history by visiting the picturesque fortresses and castles of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.

The route can be started from Moscow or St. Petersburg. To truly enjoy the trip, it is advisable to allow at least 10 days for the trip.

The Baltic states are good at any time of the year, but it is best to visit here in summer or autumn. In summer you have the chance to catch hot sunny days and enjoy sea swimming on the magnificent beaches of Jurmala, Palanga, Pärnu or the protected Curonian Spit. But perhaps only in autumn you will be able to fully appreciate all the beauty of the Baltic nature. And even though the sea is already too cold, the waves of tourists have subsided, the gardens are full of excellent fruit, and the generous colors of autumn turn simply beautiful rural landscapes into pastoral scenes from artists’ paintings. The golden Baltic autumn with its bright, gentle sun and riot of colors is perhaps the best time to wander around the old castles and parks here. Another charming place on the coast is the protected Curonian Spit. Wandering along the coast, especially after a storm, you will certainly find a piece of amber in the surf.

When passing through Latvia, be sure to spend a day in Riga, the capital of the country, and visit Bauska Castle. And just to the north lies picturesque Sigulda, where the most popular resorts in Latvia are located. And don’t forget to stop by the town of Cesis, where Wenden Castle, the residence of the master of the Livonian Order, has been preserved.

When the route crosses the Estonian border, we recommend driving through Tartu and visiting small towns on the shores of Lake Peipsi. The next notable point of the route is the island of Saaremaa. It is the third largest island in the Baltic Sea. Here life flows especially measuredly and calmly. Estonians are generally the most balanced inhabitants of the Baltic states, and here their national flavor is revealed in its entirety. It seems that only in Saaremaa can one feel how leisurely every minute of life passes. Only here you can enjoy amazing peace, taking a break from the crazy rhythms of the modern metropolis. Here you can achieve a special state of mind that many will want to immerse themselves in for several days; all that remains is to choose the format of your vacation. You can stay in a comfortable hotel, or, if you wish, choose to live on a farm that is for rent in one of the coastal villages.

In contrast, after Saaremaa, Tallinn will seem noisy, bright and crowded. You will certainly appreciate the charm of its historical center, which looks like a fairy-tale town with labyrinths of narrow streets, red tiled roofs, small souvenir shops, amazingly delicious pastries and cozy bars. And then, having enjoyed the special flavor of this city, you can go to Rakvere and Narva, and from there home to Russia.

Information from the site www.travel.landroverlife.ru

Are you planning to go to Europe with your family or company, but ticket prices are skyrocketing? Don’t rush to get upset - consider auto tourism. It has many advantages.

Firstly, by car you can move along any trajectory and are not limited in time. Secondly, if there are at least two of you, gasoline will be much cheaper than tickets (accordingly, the more of you there are, the better the price!). And thirdly, you don't have to worry about overweight luggage.

And if you are still in doubt, read below the real story about how we went to travel around the Baltics.

For the first time, we decided to start small and go for a few days to the Baltic states - Latvia and Estonia. Here it must be said that we only had cars with studded tires, and not all EU countries allow you to drive on such tires - check this point when planning your route.

To travel to Europe by car you will need...

1. Reliable car.

2. Green card for a car (like our MTPL) - costs about 2,500 rubles, can be issued in advance, at any insurance company in your city, or immediately before leaving the Russian Federation. As you approach the border, you will now and then come across points with corresponding signs, and cards are also issued at some border gas stations.

3. Schengen visa. Here a surprise awaited us. It turns out that now almost all embassies are switching to working with intermediaries. That is, you, of course, can do without them, but then you will have to make an appointment at the consulate to submit documents two or three weeks in advance and plus 10 days to obtain a visa, but you will save 25 euros on Pony Express services.

4. Navigator. We downloaded Sygic, which took us from house to house, that is, to the rented apartments. In addition to its main functions, it can be used in pedestrian mode - it will show nearby attractions and give brief information about them.

5. Good company. After all, you will have to spend a lot of time nose to nose: if in the city you can still scatter to different places, and on the plane sit at different ends, then in the car you will not be able to get away from each other. And it’s even better if this company has a second driver whom you trust - the road is much easier if you change the wheel every two to three hours.

By the way, about the road. There are several options for traveling to Europe: the choice depends on the specific route. Our first destination was Riga, so we chose the Novorizhskoe highway with the border crossing at the point Burachki (Russia) - Terekhovo (Latvia). Judging by reviews from friends and Internet blogs, the highway was reconstructed just a couple of years ago. We did not have a single complaint: neither with the quality of the coating, nor with the markings, nor with the signs. There was only one imperfect, but short-lived site in the Pskov region; it did not cause any serious inconvenience.

Having left Moscow at 4 am, we were already at the checkpoint at 11. On the way there was a feeling that we were alone on the track. Only in the rearview mirror sometimes someone’s headlights could be seen, and every five minutes oncoming cars rushed by. We were third in the queue at the border, but ten minutes later there was already a decent tail of cars behind us - it’s not even clear where all these people came from. When going through control, it’s mainly the driver who has to fuss: he takes all the passports, shows the car, and fills out the documents. Passengers can at most be asked to get out of the car, and even then not always. Having settled the formalities in about an hour, we moved on.

On the other side of the border, the asphalt has become noticeably worse, but still of acceptable quality. By the way, fill your tank full before the border - a liter of 95 gasoline in Latvia costs approximately 1.8 euros. The next 300 km to the capital of Latvia took us about 5 hours - there are many settlements on the highway and the speed drops to 50, and sometimes to 30 km/h. That is, the entire journey, taking into account crossing the border, stops at gas stations and lunch, took about 13 hours. For comparison, the Moscow – Riga train takes 16.5 hours.

Parking in the centers of European cities is paid, so think in advance about where to store your car. We had an agreement with the owners of the rented apartment that they would give us the keys to the courtyard of the house, which helped us save a lot of money and not worry about the safety of our transport. By the way, the apartment itself with all amenities for four people, a 10-minute walk from the Old Town, cost about 50 euros per night.

Of course, we immediately went to the Old Town. Having reached St. Peter's Church and appreciating its scale, we realized that we were pretty hungry from the road. Having looked around, we went into a cafe with local cuisine - what a knuckle there was! I can honestly say that it was the most delicious dinner of the entire trip. I wanted to order mulled wine, but the waiter suggested trying a hot drink based on Riga balsam and blackcurrant juice - delicious! The bill for dinner at a restaurant in the center is about 20 euros per person - this is meat with a side dish and a drink. Some, but not all establishments automatically include a 10% service charge.

You can save a lot on food if you eat at home or in establishments similar to our “Mu-mu”, for example. In the latter case, a very hearty dinner will cost about 10 euros. But we figured that we would lose some of the flavor by not exploring the local cuisine.

After walking around the evening center a little more and thoroughly tasting mulled wine in the central square, we went to rest.

The next morning, we left the car and went to Jurmala by train. The fact is that the station is located right next to the Old Town, the train takes only 20 minutes, and we decided not to bother. And the price of gasoline again... Jurmala is a resort on the coast of the Gulf of Riga. In the very center is the Maiori station, where we got off. Previously, it was here that New Wave, KVN and other festivals took place. A very cozy town with beautiful architecture and pine trees. On the beach in winter, the wind, of course, knocks you off your feet, but the streets themselves are quiet and nothing interferes with your walk. I can imagine how great it is here in the summer! This place is especially suitable for a family holiday.

Returning to Riga and armed with a guidebook, we headed back to the Old Town. If you wish, then on the square near the House of the Blackheads you can hire a personal guide who will take you around the city and tell you everything in detail. Unfortunately, we were not able to go up to the observation deck of St. Peter's Church: due to the heavy snowfall it did not make sense. The next morning we wanted to go to a 20-minute organ concert in the Dome Cathedral. So we went in to buy tickets. As it turned out later, this was a very right decision - right before the concert there was a huge line at the box office. Having walked further and looked into the Cathedral of St. James, we found ourselves at the end of the service and the organ was just playing. “Oh, my 10 euros were wasted, I wasted my money,” I thought. True, it turned out that the organ of the Dome Cathedral sounds much cleaner, even in my amateurish opinion. But if you want to save money, this is quite an option.

The day after the concert we went to Tallinn. There are about 300 km between the cities, and this journey took about five hours. Crossing the border is purely formal: you drive through the checkpoint without stopping at a low speed, and that’s it – you’re in Estonia. The route immediately changes noticeably - the road surface becomes better, there are many more cameras, and gasoline is cheaper (about 1 euro per liter). In Tallinn, we also parked in a closed courtyard of a house with the prior permission of the owners. The price of the apartment is comparable to Riga housing - 50 euros for a spacious apartment within walking distance from the historical center.

On Town Hall Square, following a very tasty smell, we ended up in the medieval tavern “Three Dragons”. In all seriousness, no electricity or cutlery - you have to drink the soup from a cup-bowl! The choice of dishes is limited to one type of soup, boar ribs and sausages for main course; there are also pies with various fillings and drinks. Prices are reasonable for a tourist center: dinner with sausages - 12 euros, with ribs - 20 euros. Of course, I wanted to try something unusual, and I chose boar ribs. The portion is very large and quite enough for two young ladies. Objectively, the meat was cooked well - not tough, very juicy. But it has a very specific marinade, it gives off sweetness. And sweet meat is... not my thing in general. Although the surrounding men drank beer with pleasure.

In the morning we decided to catch up and went to the observation deck in the Fat Margaret Tower in the Old Town. To get to the top, you need to buy a ticket to the Maritime Museum for 6 euros. Good news - if you are traveling as a family, the ticket will cost you 12 euros for everyone. The prospect of walking through a boring specialized museum did not please us at all, but what a surprise it was when it turned out to be extremely fascinating. There are interactive exhibits, real masts with sails from sunken ships, and ship models. In general, it will be interesting for both big and small; for boys it’s a paradise. You can also go to Hydroharbour, the second part of the museum, and climb on a real submarine there!

In principle, a couple of days is enough to explore the historical part of both capitals. If you want to travel outside the city or delve into the study of museums in more detail, of course, it is better to allocate more time.

The return journey to Moscow took us approximately the same 13 hours through the Luhamaa (Estonia) – Shumilkino (Russia) checkpoint. A couple of differences from the Latvian border: it is better to book the border crossing time in advance - you will spend about an hour. It is unknown how long you will have to wait in line. And you also have to pay a service fee of about 5 euros per car.

Total:

In total, we spent about 12 thousand rubles on the road for gasoline for a sedan with a 1.6 engine and an automatic transmission. For three people it turned out to be much cheaper than tickets.

Green card (insurance) – 2500 rubles.

Service fee at the Estonian border is 5 euros.