Surviving in the forest is not so easy, unless, of course, you have long-term survival experience. Of course, in our age of high technology it is difficult to get lost in the forest with different GPS technologies, but what to do if you have an accident and the nearest populated area is no closer than 100 km? Or did you crash somewhere in the taiga and your phone broke? In this situation, our forest survival tips will help you. If you have carefully read our website, you know that we have already raised many questions, so we will simply refer to them here.
The article will be divided into subparagraphs, or rather into the sequence of actions that you will need to take. So, let's begin.
Plan
Once you find yourself in the forest and realize that you won’t be able to get out quickly, then it’s time to think about shelter. Experienced survivalists put this point first because shelter helps solve many problems. It’s easy to do it yourself in a very ordinary forest.
So, if you find yourself in the forest in winter, then first you should follow simple rules. We have already written detailed articles on this topic:
- Emergency overnight stay in the winter forest
By learning these instructions now, you will be able to last much longer when you are in this situation.
In these articles, everything is chewed down to the smallest action. Now you know how to build a shelter in the forest at any time of the year. Next, you need to think about how to stay warm.
Types of fires - simple and complex methods of ignition
Of course, alcohol and other traditional methods are a good way to warm up, but not in the forest, where it is unclear how long you will remain. Therefore, you need to learn how to make a fire using almost all available methods. But first, a little theory about the rules and what kind of fires there are.
After studying this material, you will understand how to properly make a fire and what is needed for this.
Foraging for food
Shelter and a fire are of course good, but everyone always wants to eat. Now we need to find out where to get food in the forest and how to determine whether it is fresh or not. I have already published articles on this topic:
You won’t be satisfied with simple berries, so you often have to hunt. In this situation, you should read the article - Cutting elk, wild boar, hare, because suddenly you will be able to catch someone.
After you've resolved the food issue, you might want to make some homemade dishes with your own hands.
Homemade dishes in the forest
Making dishes is a second matter, because if you have a strong desire to eat, your hands can become a tool for eating food. But if you are thoroughly stuck in the forest and you have time, you can make your own dishes. In my article - how to make dishes in the forest with your own hands, you will learn how to make simple spoons and bowls.
Mining devices
I wrote above that it is possible and necessary to obtain meat in the forest. Of course, it’s smart to do this with a weapon, but most likely you won’t have one. Therefore, you will have to get meat with your own hands. Traps will help us with this, which we will have to learn how to make, because catching even a hare with bare hands is not easy. It will also be useful for you to read about hunting snare traps, which will also help catch the animal.
If you know how this is all done, even in its simplest form, then for sure your chances of getting food will be much higher.
Water extraction and purification
Water is simply necessary in the forest, otherwise it will be very difficult; fortunately, getting water in the forest is not as difficult as, for example, in the desert. You can read how to find water in the forest in my article - how to find, extract and purify water while in the forest. Additionally, I advise you to familiarize yourself with the material - filtration, disinfection and storage of water.
Exit from the forest - orientation in the forest.
So, this is the final point in which you will learn how to get out of the forest. By the time you leave, you should already be able to make a fire, get food and water.
To begin with, you should stop and take no further action. Sit on a tree stump and think about landmarks (railway road, lake, river) that you might have noticed before. Remember the direction of movement, for example relative to the sun or moon. Next, it’s worth listening, because the noise of a tractor can be heard 3 kilometers away, railway roads 10 km away, and the barking of a dog 2-3 km away.
If everything is in vain, then just follow the stream to the river, and the river should lead you to people. If there is a big tree and you want to climb it, then look at what’s around. It is also worth paying attention to the road; if you see that there is a path, then feel free to follow it. The main thing is to determine in which direction you need to move. If you keep bumping into branches, then most likely this is an animal path. If there is a fork in the road, then it is better to take the one that is more trodden.
Now about orientation. If you know approximately where to move (for example, before entering the forest, you looked at its approximate position relative to populated areas), then you can try:
It is worth remembering that many “wanderers” walk in circles, because a person is designed in such a way that often the right leg takes a step wider than the left and, accordingly, over time it turns out to be a circle, so it is worth doing Serifs and create landmarks.
Now let's talk about animals. You can meet animals in the forest, but more likely they will find out about you sooner and simply leave. The only thing is that they can attack you if:
- they are injured;
- frightened by your appearance;
- protect their young.
In this situation, you should run away or try to scare away the animal with fire. You can knock a stick on a tree. In any situation, of course, you should avoid direct contact with animals, because they may be infected.
This concludes my article. I tried to put in it everything that I considered necessary and that I learned from other resources dedicated to survival. If you have questions, you can write in the comments.
Sometimes a person, once in the forest, can get lost. If this happens in the warm season, the chances of finding a way out (without much damage to health) are quite high. But if this happens in winter, the situation becomes more complicated. This article will help you understand how to build a shelter for overnight stays in winter.
Winter days are quite short, and it begins to get dark by 17:00. If, as dusk approaches, you have already realized that you will not be able to get to your home, then you need to carefully prepare for spending the night in the forest.
Housing made of snow
The first option for overnight accommodation is a snow hut.
To build such a shelter, you must first find a good place. The most optimal terrain options:
- one or a group of fallen trees;
- roots turned out of the ground;
- hillside (preferably facing south).
The shelter will be located precisely under the cover of these trees or roots.
To start building a hut, you need to prepare the foundation - dig a hole or make a small depression in the ground. Next, you should make a frame from branches (coniferous ones are best), and if you have a piece of plastic film, oilcloth or cloth with you, cover the frame with it. Then you can pour a layer of snow on top.
Build an improvised “mattress” by laying fir branches on the bottom of your shelter. If you don’t find any, you can use dry grass or hay.
At night, the entrance to the snow hut must be covered with branches.
Despite the fact that such a dwelling is made of snow, it will be much warmer in it than in a wooden hut.
Hut made of branches
A wooden hut, like the previous housing option, can be built without any tools. Of course, if you have an ax or knife with you, they will not be superfluous. But we are considering the topic of survival and miss this option.
It is worth noting that there are undesirable places for spending the night, these are: lowlands, gorges, the foothills of mountains - in such places floods, rockfalls and avalanches are possible. You should not place it on hills either: the shelter will be vulnerable to the wind.
It is better to build a shelter on a flat surface, surrounded by trees: they will protect from the wind.
You should start by searching for debris. For the base of the hut, a small broken trunk is best suited, which can be placed at an angle on a reliable support. To do this, it is advisable to find a low branching tree or stick a slingshot-shaped log into the ground. At this stage it is also worth taking care of the flooring. Dry moss, leaves or branches are suitable for flooring.
So, on such a simple basis it is already possible to build the future “walls” of the hut. It is very good to cover the shelter with spruce branches. But if there are none, regular ones will do. First you need to lay out large logs, small branches on top, cover it all with moss and dry grass.
See the video below for more details.
How to heat your home
It is better to make a fire inside the hut. At the same time, it is important to ensure that there is no fire and that the fire is kept at a distance from the “mattress” and “walls”. Don't be afraid of smoke. At first there will be a continuous curtain, but then the smoke will begin to evaporate into the loopholes between the branches.
Even a small fire can raise the temperature in the shelter by 10˚C.
Earlier, “The Epoch Times” talked about how to do it in any conditions, and if you happen to have it with you (it’s not very difficult to do it yourself), then you can even make tea.
Dugout
Dugout
In some cases, a person has to hide in a shelter in the forest in order to survive and avoid mortal danger. If this is easier to do in the warm season, then in winter or late autumn with the onset of cold weather there is a danger of freezing and not holding out.
A forest shelter is made for several people or for one, depending on the situation. Usually available materials and tools, natural stone and boards are used. The shelter can be temporary or designed for a long stay.
The building is insulated using natural materials inside or with an awning outside, which helps protect people inside from cold, precipitation or wind. Before building a forest shelter, you need to choose the safest place, for which you should familiarize yourself with certain rules and advice from experienced builders:
- When choosing a safe place for shelter, you must remember about the possible strong wind, which breaks not only the growing tree, but also its branches. The danger of an emergency evacuation in the middle of the night or a threat to life and limb is not worth building a shelter under the canopy of trees;
- It is important to inspect the nearby places - they should not contain a lot of dead wood (dead tree, dried out over time), as well as trunks caught in the crowns of neighboring trees by branches. As soon as the wind rises, the crowns will sway, throwing off excess;
- Once a location is selected, a polygon-shaped area is marked. The poles for marking are chosen thick, connecting them at the very top with thin and flexible branches. It is important to do the work at this stage very efficiently so that there are no unstable supports;
- You can make a roof from a piece of tarpaulin or awning. This provides protection from rain or sleet. Having made it at a fairly high level, you can make a fire. A live fire allows you to cook food, keep warm and dry clothes without going outside. If there is a strong wind, you can lower the awning lower so that it does not get carried away by a gust (it is recommended to use wood for greater reliability);
- If you don’t have an awning or a piece of tarpaulin at hand, you can make the roof more dense by reinforcing it with branches and resin.
How to make a forest shelter for a long stay?
Shelter in the forest is necessary not only for spending the night, but also for long-term stay inside it in cases of danger and threat to life. Outside civilization, such a building must be reliable, quite comfortable and safe. You definitely need to make a canopy in the form of an awning from wet snow and rain.
View this post on Instagram
If desired and possible, it is allowed not to use powerful equipment for construction. If construction is carried out in advance, then you can purchase additional building materials. Natural boards for construction will allow you to harmoniously fit the shelter into the forest and create an environmentally friendly shelter.
How to make the correct entry?
The main point in the construction of a forest-type shelter is its entrance. It is possible to make an opening out of wood or install a full-fledged door; you can punch a hole and cover it with an awning. As experts admit, the door is the most reliable option - its door is not afraid of rain and wind, cold and bad weather. Conserving heat indoors will be more effective than with an opening in the wall.
If it is too warm inside, for example in the summer, you can open it for ventilation or leave a gap so that cool air masses renew the air inside the shelter. When the door is closed, all the heat heated by the house or heating will be retained. The door can also protect against animals in the forest or uninvited guests if there is a settlement nearby. The entrance can be made without the use of traditional metal hinges - there are many options for various adjusting fasteners.
A long stay in a forest shelter requires a thorough approach to arrangement, so you still can’t do without a minimum set of tools. In particular, a hand-held drill is needed to make holes in the wooden sheet. Using a drill, the wedges and fastenings will match exactly, which will significantly increase the durability and reliability of the door.
Among the dead wood or trees that have fallen from the wind, you can find a large trunk, dry and smooth enough to make a door leaf out of it. To do this, you need to act in the following sequence:
- break the nearest hazel or its analogues into wedges for sequential splitting of birch. Use ash or other types of wood to create a hammer, one end of which is cut as a handle that matches the size of the palm;
- When choosing a trunk for shelter boards, you need to monitor their evenness and quality, so the trunk must be split exactly in the center, for which a hazel wedge is used. The crack increases along the wood grain until the wood is completely split. An approximate calculation allows you to get about 4 full boards from one log;
- a pole is made to hang the roof of the shelter, which ideally has a couple of branches for fixing the slats. To find such a trunk, you can walk around the area; trees often have one of their sides extended in the sun at an angle of 90 degrees. This will be the top beam of the shelter door;
- The bottom door block is made according to the dovetail principle - the boards are made flat and smoothed with an ax blade. A pair of hardened wood cores are drilled into the door post overlapping each other. Theoretically, the undried wood of the shelter and door elements dries out over time and compresses the hole more tightly;
- When driving in the rods, they are cut from above and cuts are made for the pegs. The depth of these cuts is important because the bars expand towards the edges to support the wedge. It is recommended to choose stiffer wedges than ash ones;
- the first rod for the door is driven in. Fixed with oak wedges. The boards are fixed with fasteners, after which the door is ready for installation by lifting it around the corner;
- a protrusion the size of a large palm is left at the pillar of the shelter doorway. Corners are planed and rounded to reduce friction.
When setting up a shelter in the forest for a long stay, it is necessary that it “breathe” - the enclosed space must withstand bad weather and not accumulate moisture. If the shelter is damp and humid, the materials will quickly rot and the structure may soon collapse. If desired and possible, you can leave one person inside to maintain the fire for drying.
The area where the roof and walls are attached is characterized by high humidity due to straw and soil. The integrity and dryness of the shelter structure in the forest depend directly on the rafters and their decay. The construction task boils down to a strong, low-level interior wall made of hickory rods twisted around oak posts. Rafters are laid on the wall. Such a frame protects the base of the shelter and is a reliable foundation.
All parts of the shelter structure that are supposed to be laid on the ground or underground must be lightly smoked in the fire.
The support post should stand straight and support the ridge ridge inside the back wall of the shelter. It is secured with two pillars with a slight slope and weaving near the wall. The frame has a different slope than the door, but is also fixed to the ridge and top. It is important to keep it compact while providing some heating from the fire built inside. Even in ancient times, forest dwellings were built without chimneys—a smoky ceiling from the fire was created at head level, penetrating through the thatched roof.
Additionally, it kills insects that hide in roof cracks. In wild conditions, the roof can be covered with fern leaves, cut at the root. They are laid from the bottom of the roof towards the ridge, on top of each other. Additionally, it is recommended to use fallen leaves and mulch, moss, and any camouflage materials of plant origin. Leaves on the roof provide additional protection from the cold.
Lovers of outdoor recreation need to know how to act in unforeseen situations, have basic survival skills and setting up a camp. This is especially true for those who love outdoor recreation in the winter. When going on a hike in the forest in winter, you need to prepare in advance and take more useful things that will come in handy. One of the important knowledge needed to survive in the forest in winter is to know how to stay warm and not freeze. It is necessary to build a winter shelter and know how to properly heat and build it.
Shelter in the forest: features of the structure
Winter hikes have their own characteristics due to weather conditions, and the construction of a winter shelter is significantly different from a summer one.
- In winter, it is more difficult to find available materials for building a shelter, as well as to find the right place to build it. In summer this task is much easier.
- In winter it is more difficult to stay warm. If in summer you only need to warm up at night, then in winter you need to maintain heat constantly.
- It is important to build the shelter correctly so that the structure does not fall apart and to heat it correctly so that the heat is retained.
How to build a winter shelter with your own hands in the forest - step-by-step instructions.
Search for a place
The first thing you need to decide on when building a shelter is the right place. If you are in the forest, these are good options:
If you are in a mountainous area.
- You need to choose a place that resembles a cave, some large gorge in the mountains, in order to fit freely there.
- A flat area is suitable if you have a tent or tarpaulin.
Tools for building a winter shelter
Having decided on the location, you need to move on to construction. Let's consider each case separately.
woodland
To build a winter shelter in the forest, you need to decide on the type of shelter. The most suitable temporary shelter is a winter cave. An interesting paradox: to escape the snow and cold, you need to hide in the snow. If the location you choose is a small hill or flat area, then you need to dig yourself a hole.
Make sure that the cave or hole will not fall through and that the place is secure. Dig a hole of the required length to accommodate the required number of people. Make a small trench along the walls. With its help, cold air will fall down and accumulate there. Remove all snow outside. The exit can be covered with snow so that less wind gets inside. If you are digging a hole on a flat area, then build a roof from scrap materials.
If you have tarpaulin, use it. In its absence - with branches, leaves and everything else you find. Finding something in winter is much more difficult than in summer. Your shelter is ready. If you have a tent, you need to set it up on a more level surface and clear the area of branches and thickets.
Shelter in the crevice
Mountain landscape
Having decided on a location (most likely a gorge or cave), dig the necessary hole, if necessary. If you find a real natural cave, you won't have to build it yourself. Rules for building a cave shelter like in a forest. It is necessary to additionally take into account that stones or snow may fall. You need to make sure you don't get hurt if this happens. If you have a tent, set it up on a flat surface, having first cleared the area of debris. Make sure that it will not fall from the wind, as the winds in the mountains are quite strong.
Snow Shelter
The next step is heating the winter shelter. The rules are the same here. Inside the shelter you need to make a fire from branches and sticks, but you need to be careful that it does not get too hot. Don’t rush to throw away wet branches; try cutting or breaking them in half. They may be dry inside and burn better.
You may have taken candles, they will also work. Any source of fire will warm the shelter if it is built airtight. The peculiarity of heating a snow shelter is that due to temperature changes, the snow begins to stick together inside and the walls become strong. During this process, cracks may form; they need to be covered with snow. The fire should not get too hot, otherwise you may be injured by the fire.
Ideally it should be small and create a lot of warm coals. Then the heat will remain for a long time. Find stones and put them in the fire. They will create additional heat like a stove. We should not forget that you need to dry things thoroughly so as not to sit in wet things. This will make it harder to stay warm.
Types of winter shelters
What other types of winter shelters do you know? Briefly about the types of shelters.
- Open type shelters. These are natural caves and gorges. There is an opening in the shelter and it can be ventilated. It is advisable to do this if you plan to build a strong fire, and if there is no strong snowstorm.
- Closed shelters. Pits, “burrows” in the mountainside. Such a shelter should have as little ventilation as possible and be closed on all sides.
There are a few more useful tips that will work in any situation and in any area.
1. BUILDING A CANOPY IN THE FOREST WITH YOUR OWN HANDS FROM AVAILABLE TOOLS.
From my own experience, I’ll tell you how to properly build a canopy in the forest with your own hands using available materials. The article was written to summarize personal experience and will be useful to landowners who are just planning to move to an estate (or dacha).
How to build your first shelter in the forest.
Arrangement of your estate should begin with careful observations of nature - the plants on the site, assess the relief - understand where the lows and highs are (by, for example, how long the water stays there in the spring and whether it stays there at all), watch the birds that fly to guests. In addition, you still need time to understand in your soul what will be located and where. Therefore, all the first steps around the site begin from the tent. But no matter where your estate is located - in the south or north of Russia, it doesn’t matter - a roof over your head makes camp life easier. Under the roof you can hide from the rain and slowly cook food over a fire; you can hide from the sun in the summer, lay out your things and firewood. You can hide from the rain in a tent or under the forest canopy, but a roof - a simple canopy will make life in the field more pleasant. Putting together a simple shed from boards is a simple task, but at first there is no road and no way to get the necessary materials along it, so we take a hammer and nails and let’s go build a shed together!
To an estate without a road you can carry on yourself: an axe, nails, a shovel, a tape measure, a hacksaw and film - this is what we will proceed from.
First stage. Choosing a place for a canopy. In relation to the forest, it is convenient to place the canopy in the clearing so that the canopy is adjacent to the forest (the forest will be on the north side) and to the illuminated clearing in the south. The forest will protect you from the wind and cold from the north, and the clearing will provide sun under a canopy, and it’s convenient to go out from under the canopy to a lighted, flat place (where you can go about your business). And it’s very important - you can hang camping equipment on the front side of the canopy to dry - everything will dry quickly. The western side can be closed from winds and rain, or it can be opened as a source of light in the evening (ours is open; large roof overhangs will protect from rain). Our eastern side is closed by forest (in the summer the air does not heat up so quickly in the mornings, and in general the proximity to the forest helps to survive the sultry heat very much in the summer). In an open area there will be sun or wind on all sides in bad weather, and it will be uncomfortable. If you have the opportunity to hug the trees, then it’s better to use it.
It is also very important to choose a dry location. It is better to take a place for a canopy on a hill, so that during heavy rains and in the spring, water does not collect under your shelter. Sometimes you want to make a canopy in a small hole, or specially dig in - to make it more comfortable. And in the spring or when it rains, a small swamp forms under the canopy - so it is better to choose a slightly elevated place and certainly do without digging a hole even for a fireplace (at least in our northern places, where heavy rains often occur; this is especially true).
Second phase. Canopy materials. An axe, a hacksaw, nails, a tape measure, a shovel - everything is clear here. If it is possible to get lumber, then a screwdriver with self-tapping screws will help in construction, but we will build from scrap materials - round timber cleared of bark. This option is suitable for those areas where the area is forested with young 10-20 year old forest - where the trees have grown very densely (and therefore the trunks are very even and tall - the optimal material for a canopy). In our young forest, gray alder grows - not very dense thickets of seed origin on rich soils in wrens, the trunks are quite straight, 10-12 meters high and even - we built a canopy from them, and this alder was named as a joke for its evenness and height " ship." Birch thickets - the trunks are more curved and there is a problem with removing the bark (for drying). We take a reinforced film 4 m wide for the roof. It’s easier to find film of this width in Moscow in the spring, but by mid-summer it’s already problematic, apparently summer residents are dismantling it for greenhouses, so you should hurry up with the purchase. A reinforced film 4 meters wide will significantly save time and effort on closing the roof of the canopy, and will also protect it more reliably from moisture (this width will be enough for the entire canopy and there will be no need to overlap two pieces of smaller width). Reinforced film is more durable than regular film and can withstand all adversity. Its condition is most negatively affected by exposure to direct sunlight, and in the shade under the forest canopy its service life increases by an order of magnitude. Ordinary film quickly breaks into small pieces and scatters all over the area (it cannot withstand more than one season)! Ruberoid is also not the best option - it is heavy and bulky during transportation, when it is destroyed, then disposal is even more difficult than with film.
Third stage. Planning. Everything needs to be clearly planned before construction begins. You need to prepare your tools. The most important thing is that you need to plan the dimensions of the canopy on paper at home. The height should be comfortable and correspond to the height of your family members (so that you can walk almost at full height, and the flames of the fire do not burn through the roof), but, if possible, be lower if you are not going to sew up the side walls - a lower canopy roof will provide better protection from rain and wind, the higher. We made the front edge 2.1 meters (so that you can walk without hitting your head), and the rear edge could be a little lower - 1.6 meters (especially in the north). You also need to walk in the center of the canopy and not touch your head. Between the front and rear edges of the roof there is a height difference of 0.3 meters for good drainage of water and snow in winter / spring. Width of the canopy: in terms of width, you need to take into account that there will be a fire in the center, along the edges of the seating area, and between the fire and the benches there will be a free passage. Our width turned out to be about 2.3m. To prevent rain from flooding the roof extensions on all four sides, it is better to make them 0.5 m thick - this is a lot, but it is good protection from bad weather. Depth of the canopy - here it is worth considering that the fire should be made in the center of the canopy, or a little closer to the front edge. Also in the center and a little further is a table. The total depth of the canopy was also 2.3 m.
Fourth stage. Construction. We divided all the construction, which we will do with our own hands, into two stages. First, we harvest the forest - we cut down the necessary trees, saw them to length (and we know the length - we planned everything in advance - how long and how many poles are needed), and remove the bark to dry the poles. It is difficult to remove the bark from a birch, so you need to cut through the trunk from four sides (make longitudinal cuts of the bark with an ax - the larger the better, so that the trunk dries out). We lean all the prepared pillars vertically against something for further drying. If you do not remove the bark, the tree will not dry and the beetles will damage it, the tree will rot, and woodpeckers will begin to hollow out the beetles and will finally smash the canopy into pieces and the roof will fall (we saw such a miracle). And raw wood is very difficult to work with.
The next stage is that all the pillars are dry and we can assemble the canopy. We carefully measure the places for the pillars, dig holes with a shovel 50 centimeters deep, install vertical pillars, and cover them with earth to the previous level. Please note: when preparing the pillars, do not forget to add to the height of the canopy the depth to which you dig the pillars! As we sprinkle the soil, we compact each layer very carefully. Then we nail the horizontal beams, and then lay the roof sheathing on these beams. The poles that go to the roof must be very carefully inspected for the presence of knots - everything should be very carefully cleaned to an even, smooth state so that the film does not cling to them and does not tear. We place the poles at small intervals of a few centimeters. If you have the strength and opportunity to prepare a lot of round timber poles, then you can even lay them close together. The tighter they lie, the smoother the film will lie, the longer it will last. Our task is to ensure that there are no gaps between the poles, and that the film is stretched tightly so that it does not sag and puddles do not form on the roof. Next, we lay our reinforced film on the poles, fasten it with small nails along the perimeter - from the ends to the poles (so that the wind does not tear it off, it is better to secure it thoroughly along the entire perimeter). And the last thing - we make the jibs, benches, table and fire pit.
The canopy is built! With your own hands and using improvised means!
I would like to note a few things.
1. If you plan everything on paper in advance, then in a forest with mosquitoes the work will go quickly when you know how many poles and how long you need.
2. It is very difficult and tedious to chop up trees with an ax, but a dried tree will last a long time - beetles and woodpeckers will not eat it, rot will not damage it, and in winter it will not fall under the weight of snow. Remember - you need to bark (remove) trees immediately after they are cut down - doing this later will be much more difficult and longer.
3. Before you build, think ten times, otherwise moving the canopy to another place will be problematic. It’s possible to build a canopy with your own hands using available materials, but it’s unrealistic to move it to another place if you suddenly make a mistake with the location of the canopy!
4. Study the experience of building sheds, cabins, and houses from your kind and experienced neighbors - their lived experience will help you.
5. Having built a shed, you are now not afraid of rain, you can start clearing the entrances to the site, and then building a shed!
From the photographs: The first photo shows a canopy. In order for it to be beautiful, they did not remove the bark from the birch; as a result, the supports rotted and the canopy fell under the snow - this is not necessary. In the second photo they decided to make a recess for the hearth and beauty - in the end everything turned into a swamp, there is no need to do that either. The third photo shows what remains of the tree if it is not dried - the beetles ate it, and the woodpeckers smashed it to pieces - and there is no need to do this either. In the fourth background, the pillars are neatly dried and ready for the construction of a canopy.
2.A hut made from scrap materials.
What is bad about the instructions for the construction of dugouts and most forest shelters is the mandatory presence of additional materials. Tarpaulin, for example. Shovels or crowbar. In general, you need to prepare in advance. But real survival is if you find yourself in the forest with practically nothing. Well, there are such situations in life (they put it in the trunk, brought it to God knows where and unloaded it, yeah, thanks, at least they didn’t shoot me). And what to do when you are standing in the middle of the forest, without a compass, a lighter, or an ax?
First of all, do not waste energy on a multi-hour hike in an unknown direction. Look around for possible shelters provided by nature itself. If you find a trench, dugout or cave nearby - so much the better for you. If you don’t find it, look for a safe place and start building a hut from scrap materials. Time passes quickly in the forest from the point of view of light. It begins to get dark there faster than in open spaces. And at night, besides, it’s also cold, you can’t sleep on the ground, you’ll freeze completely and get sick right away.
So before dark, start looking for a place without anthills and traces of wild animals. Smooth: any unevenness will make itself felt, and normal rest will not be possible. Pay attention to the trees around the clearing - so that there are no rotten or chopped ones bending right over your head. It is advisable to find a source of running water and firewood (dead wood, brushwood) near the site of your future camp.
While you are wandering around in search of all this, look out for where you can break some spruce branches (especially in the cold season) or just branches covered with many leaves. You can build a durable gable hut from them. It will take several hours to build, but who knows how many days you will need this shelter for? The sooner you realize this, the better. Such a hut will serve as excellent protection from rain and wind.
First, prepare a couple of strong rogulins - they will become the basis of the hut. Drive them into the soil by about a third, they should hold up under any circumstances. Place the same strong stick horizontally on top, and on it - in a row and at an angle - thinner poles; they will become rafters. Spruce branches and branches with leaves should already be placed on the rafters. This top layer should completely overlap the bottom one - in addition, each next branch of the top layer covers half of the previous one. The back wall of a gable hut is covered in the same way. Plug the cracks in the roof of the gable hut with moss and tufts of dry grass. In winter, this entire structure can be insulated with layers of snow laid on top of it - however, we recommend that in the cold season you immediately build an igloo
Loading...
