Gas block reinforcement of doorway met corner. How to fix a metal door in aerated concrete. Some subtleties of installation

Foam block is one of the most popular building materials used for low-rise construction. Due to the unique combination of low price, good thermal insulation characteristics and strength, foam blocks are often used both for the construction of supporting walls and internal partitions.

Naturally, sooner or later the house builder faces the question of how to install a door in a foam block house.

What is a foam block

Foam block belongs to cellular concrete. It has many advantages:

• easy to process;
• weighs a little;
• its thermal conductivity is 3 times greater than that of brick and 8 times that of concrete;
• soundproofing;
• vapor barrier;
• chemical and biological resistance, corrosion resistance.

The main advantage of foam block is that when building a house from it, you do not need to spend additional money on thermal insulation, and heating costs are reduced by 3 times.

A house made of foam blocks has its advantages:

• low load on the foundation;
• savings on labor intensity due to the large block size;
• The microclimate inside a foam block house is similar to that of a wooden one.

The foam block has one drawback: it is fragile. A foam block house must be reinforced at several levels. Therefore, the installation of doors and windows in foam block masonry occurs using a special technology. It is better to install doors no more than 1 meter wide in a house made of cellular concrete; wider ones will create a greater load on the walls and cause inconvenience when opening.

Installing an entrance door in a foam block with anchoring

Stage 1

Prepare the opening (the size of the opening should be 20mm larger than the size of the box, maximum tolerance +25mm on each side.

The surface of the framing planes must be flat and smooth, without sagging plaster and cracks.

Stage 2

Install the door from the outside of the opening.

Fix the frame in the opening level using wooden wedges of the required size, installing them between the wall and the frame on the inside of the door. If the floor of the opening is uneven, install wooden wedges in the door threshold.

Stage 3

Using a hammer drill (electric drill), make holes in the wall for anchor bolts (diameter 10.5 mm, depth 130 mm) through the spaces provided on the door frame.
The diameter of the anchor bolt is 10 mm.

After inserting the anchor bolts into the prepared holes, tighten the nuts until the anchors are completely secured in the wall. Seal the holes in the frame with plastic plugs.

Check the installation of the door frame using a level.

On the opposite side, through the spaces provided on the door frame, drill holes. Insert anchor bolts into the prepared holes and tighten the nuts until the anchors are completely secured in the wall. Seal the holes in the frame with plastic plugs.

In the upper part of the frame, through the places provided on the frame, drill holes. Insert anchor bolts into the prepared holes and tighten the nuts until the anchors are completely fixed in the wall.

Stage 4

Check the installation of the door frame using a level.

Pull out the wooden wedges and carefully fill the space between the wall and the door frame with foam.

Install the fittings onto the locking part. The door is installed and ready for use.

Installation of doors in foam concrete

Foam block is a lightweight cellular concrete, so it is soft and porous. Installation of a metal door in a house made of aerated concrete is done in several ways:

• on anchors - this method is good for narrow openings;
• for chemical anchors for aerated concrete;
• on a specially welded metal frame;
• using wooden strapping;
• to an additionally laid brick wall.

The weight of a standard metal front door usually ranges from 45 to 90 kg, but can exceed 100 kg. Despite the fact that all these technologies have a right to exist, the most popular is installing a door using a response frame.

How to attach a door to wood frame

When installing an entrance door in aerated concrete, it is important to ensure that it stands on a foundation and not on a block - this is a stronger and more reliable foundation.

A heavy door can experience serious impact loads, due to which sooner or later the entire fastening system may become loose. To prevent this deformation, it is recommended to install the frame in such a way as to distribute the loads that act on the door over a large area using fixed wooden frames with embedded bars. Frames are made from dry boards, furniture panels, plywood and timber. The wood is first impregnated with antiseptics. If possible, preference should be given to larch - one of the most moisture-resistant types of wood.

When installing small doors, use either an embedded beam embedded in aerated concrete or overhead wooden panels in the opening along the thickness of the wall. The tree is attached to chemical anchors or otherwise to a layer of aerated concrete adhesive. Then it is additionally secured to the wall made of aerated concrete using anchors specifically for cellular concrete and to prevent swaying - with self-tapping screws of 7.5 cm in length.

Wooden panels can be solid or made from pieces of wood, which are installed at 61cm center intervals. After installation, the free spaces between the wall and the frame are foamed. This will allow the frame to be fixed more rigidly thanks to oppositely directed screws and expanding foam.

For large doors, a wooden frame is made, and the frame is mounted more firmly. The anchors are embedded into a drilled hole with a depth of 15 cm in increments of no more than 61 cm using epoxy resin.

If the anchor is monolid during laying, you can use aerated concrete adhesive. A groove is cut out in the block, an anchor is placed on top of it, and the cavity is filled with glue. Using a washer and nut, the wooden frame of the opening is installed to the cast-in anchor. You can additionally secure it with self-tapping screws. Garage hinges or a door frame are already attached to the harness.

Installation in a metal frame

To strengthen the opening, you can weld a stiffening frame from a 40 by 40 angle or a thick-walled profile pipe with a section of 80 by 80 or 100 by 100 mm. The pipes should run from the floor in the opening to the ceiling, and be attached to the ceilings with anchor bolts. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the box. Pipes can be buried in foam blocks, for which you will have to cut grooves. Next you need to drill the pipes, securing them with anchors in aerated concrete.

An even more reliable installation of steel doors can be achieved using steel mortgages, which are installed during the construction of the walls. Embeds are reinforcement welded to a plate. The reinforcement is embedded in the cut grooves of the aerated concrete wall during the laying of foam concrete blocks. Open sinuses are filled with mortar or aerated concrete adhesive or epoxy. The door frame is attached by welding with steel plates or using a bolted connection.

It is better to entrust the installation of an iron door in a private house to professionals. This is not such an expensive service that you need to save on it. You can “break the woods” yourself, especially if the structure is made of aerated concrete.

Specifics of aerated concrete blocks

This is a porous material that holds heat well. However, it is impossible to install metal doors (powder coated or other finishing) into such a wall using standard methods using anchors. A bolt screwed into aerated concrete is strong against lateral forces, but does not hold at all if you pull it towards you. Accordingly, it will not be possible to secure the metal structure using the classical method.

Work with an assistant. A high-quality door from the StroyStalInvest company weighs at least 45 kg. It is very difficult to hang it yourself without hurting your back or damaging the door leaf.

How to order and install a door correctly?

When installing the entrance metal structure to a building made of aerated concrete, observe the following rules:

1. The box should be 2-6 cm smaller than the opening.
2. Coat the walls next to the entrance and the opening itself with deep penetration primer and wait until it dries completely.
3. Strengthen the walls where the box will be placed. This is done using a 35-mm angle and crossbars (steel 1.5-3 mm thick). The U-shaped structure is welded so that the transverse metal inserts fit into the mounting locations of the box. The same corner is cooked at the top and bottom with the notch facing outwards.
4. Install timber on the sides of the passage, directly on the protruding corners. Pre-soak it with an antiseptic and dry it. The width of the board is slightly narrower than the walls, thickness 25 or 30 mm. The height should be such that the timber can be hammered in with force, but it should not bend.
5. Secure the board with metal screws, 15 cm long. If a gap is visible between the timber and the wall, remove it, apply foam and reinstall it, and then secure it.
6. Now install the box in the usual way - on wedges.
7. Check the evenness with a level - set it correctly.
8. Secure with dowels in the places of the cross bars.
9. Remove the wedges and seal the cracks.
10. After the foam has hardened, trim off the excess and install the trim.

Don't forget to hang the door leaf and adjust it. It should close smoothly, without effort.

Some subtleties of installation

The installation method described above is combined. It includes both a welded metal frame and a wooden frame. In fact, there are 3 ways to attach a door to cellular concrete:

• Anchors, but not simple ones - those that come with the door are replaced with special ones for cellular concrete. The method is suitable for single-field lightweight products.
• On a welded metal frame. In this case, the size of the door should be only a couple of centimeters narrower than the opening. After welding the U-shaped arches, which firmly fix the sides of the passage, the box is installed in the standard way.
• On a wooden frame. In other words, a box is constructed from a wooden beam, which is attached to aerated concrete with glue and expansion anchors. And a steel box is already being installed on it.

The craftsmen of the StroyStalInvest company will install any model presented in the catalog quickly and efficiently. In addition, the product will receive a guarantee for further maintenance and warranty repairs.

All-doors.ru

Installation of doors in aerated concrete - construction

Installation of doors in aerated concrete.

There are many ways to install a door in aerated concrete. Which one will be acceptable in your case depends on several factors: the weight of the door, the size of the doorway, what kind of impact loads the door frame fastening will experience.

If the width of the doorway is less than 90 cm, then the door frame can be installed directly on aerated concrete, using anchors for cellular concrete to secure it.

In the installation of interior doors made of wood in private houses made of aerated concrete, you can use embedded bars. The wood must be heat-treated or impregnated with an antiseptic. We recommend larch as a species, as it is resistant to rot and is affordable.

This option, like the previous one, is suitable for private households. It involves the use of wooden panels covering the entire thickness of the walls in the opening. To prevent the formation of voids between the panel and the wall, both surfaces are treated with tile adhesive or aerated concrete adhesive. Anchors for cellular concrete and, in case of possible hinge swings, self-tapping screws no shorter than 7.5 cm are used as fasteners. The figure below shows that wooden spacers can be solid around the perimeter of the doorway, or also made from pieces of wood. When installing using the second method, the spaces not occupied by the slats are foamed with polyurethane foam with a small degree of expansion, achieving a more rigid fixation of the door frame.

To install doors in wide openings (office premises, garage doors), it is more reliable to use adhesive anchors. In the gas-block wall, 15 cm holes are drilled along the perimeter of the entire opening in increments of no more than 60 cm, which are filled with epoxy resin. Then anchors or threaded rods are placed in these cavities. Self-tapping screws can be used as an additional fastening for the opening trim. At the final stage, the door frame or garage hinges are attached to the frame.

Steel doors and massive doors for technical purposes can exert destructive loads on aerated concrete at fastening points. Using one of the following methods for installing steel doors, you can minimize the impact of these forces on aerated concrete.

For light loads, as for a wooden door, for a steel door you can also use fastening to gas silicate using a continuous or intermittent wooden gasket, with foaming in the latter case of free gaps with polyurethane foam.

A good option for strengthening a doorway with steel corners and a steel sheet (can be a channel) attached to the wall. The gap between the sheet (channel) and the gas-block wall is filled with a non-shrinking solution.

Perhaps one of the most reliable fastenings can be obtained by placing steel fastening elements into the grooves of the wall at the stage of laying gas silicate blocks. The figure below shows what embedded elements are. The steel frame can be attached by bolting or welding to supporting steel plates.

In some cases, with strong lateral loads on aerated concrete walls in the areas of doorways, it is simply impossible to do without vertical reinforcement. An O-shaped hole O = 10-15 cm is arranged for it, passing in a vertical plane at a distance from the doorway of no less. block and no further than 60 cm. The hole can be drilled independently with a diamond bit of the appropriate diameter, or you can purchase O-blocks in advance. You will also need reinforcement O = 14 mm and class A400-A500 and steel embedded elements. The reinforcement is placed in an O-shaped hole and secured with the lower end in the foundation, and the upper end in a reinforced strapping belt. Support platforms (steel elements) are installed at the stage of laying gas blocks.

Based on materials from the site: http://gazobeton.ru

fix-builder.ru

This will provide good waterproofing and strengthen the surface of the blocks. Don't be afraid to install entrance structures yourself.

Of course, additional expenses will be required for strengthening, but the price of materials is lower than the payment for the work of a master. The technology for attaching the door to aerated concrete differs from other options.

The difference is in the specific characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Aerated concrete is porous, fragile and lightweight.

Prepare the opening (the size of the opening should be 20mm larger than the size of the box, maximum tolerance +25mm on each side.

The surface of the framing planes must be flat and smooth, without sagging plaster and cracks.

Install the door from the outside of the opening.

A modern entrance, as a rule, is a massive metal structure. Meanwhile, the walls of houses, including internal partitions of high-rise buildings, are increasingly being built from foam blocks.

What is the most reliable way to “join” steel and not very strong masonry?

When ordering an entrance door, they almost always call a measurer.

You should discuss with him the specifics of the walls, as well as making adjustments to the design of the door block and installation technology. There are two main ways to install boxes in “weak” openings.

The width of the installation gap for foam block walls should not exceed 10 mm. It is important that the masters approach its completion with the utmost responsibility.

Typically, polyurethane foam is used for this purpose, which copes well with the tasks of heat and sound insulation. To get the best result, you need to dust off the surfaces and moisten them with water.

Suddenly the wind blows it or someone miscalculates and slams it with all its might. I don’t believe in fairy tales that we’ll sing and everything will be ok.

The foam will lose its properties over time. I don’t want to worry about it later. I welded a steel frame onto the GB opening.

And he placed it on chemical anchors in the wall. Installing the box in the frame does not raise any questions.

It’s just that I have the same important metal doors - putting them on 6 anchors for a while - it’s really weak.

Methods for installing entrance and interior doors in aerated concrete

The width and height of doorways are determined at the stage of wall construction. Here you cannot do without cutting aerated concrete blocks to size using a special power tool or a regular aerated concrete saw. The first method of fastening is reliable. It is provided for in the design documentation for the house. Mortgages are installed on each side of the opening, their number depends on the height of the door.

When installing heavy steel doors in large openings (openings over 91 cm, garage doors, etc.), doors in commercial premises with high foot traffic, aerated concrete in places where the door frame is directly attached can experience significant impact loads (shearing, pulling).

To prevent gradual coloring of the porous structure of aerated concrete (cellular concrete) under a very small area of ​​the anchor, it is recommended to install door frames in such a way as to distribute the loads from opening and closing doors over a much larger area.

Do not be afraid to install such structures with your own hands.

The installation technology, of course, involves additional costs for strengthening, but the price of these materials is disproportionately less than the payment for the work of professionals. As you know, metal is a heavy material and installing a metal door in aerated concrete is quite a responsible job.

Especially if you prefer reliable domestic doors made of thick metal with good protection.

It is believed that the first option with the installation of timber is the optimal solution.

It does not have to be installed along the entire perimeter: two vertical elements will be enough. It is very important that both elements are accurately aligned in the same plane.

There are several more requirements that determine the quality of the final result.

If heavy metal doors are being installed, the fastening should be carried out using an adhesive composition.

propuskspb.ru

Do-it-yourself front door installation: photo + video

A correctly installed entrance door not only ensures the safety of property, but also reduces heat loss (due to insulation of the frame) and reduces the audibility of what is happening outside the house or apartment. First of all, you should know that installing the front door yourself is possible. Moreover, you can do everything alone, but if the canvas is heavy, it’s easier to work together. There is nothing complicated in the technology itself, but there are several features that you need to know before starting installation yourself.

Preparation for installation

Before installation begins, the old door must be removed. This must be done carefully, trying not to damage the opening too much. Then the installation of the front door will go quickly.

Removing the old door

First, remove the door leaf. If the model has removable hinges, the doors are opened, a crowbar is placed under the lower edge of the leaf, and the doors are lifted from the hinges. If the hinges are not removable, you will have to unscrew them. It's better to start from the bottom.

Afterwards, the slopes are dismantled, the wallpaper is removed, and the plaster or putty is beaten off. The task is to determine how the box was attached, to find the attachment points. If the door frame is metal, it is usually anchors or pieces of reinforcement. At the junctions they are cut with a grinder. When all the fasteners are cut off, the old box is squeezed out or knocked out. But with this procedure there is no need to make excessive efforts: you can destroy the box so much that it will need to be repaired.

If the frame of the old front door is wooden, everything is simpler. The side posts can be cut approximately in the middle, and then, prying them with a crowbar, they can be broken out of the opening. Once the side panels are removed, the lintel can be easily removed. The threshold can also be removed without any problems.

Preparing the opening

After the old door is removed, the doorway is prepared for installation. First, remove all pieces of putty, brick fragments, etc. Get rid of anything that might fall off. Then the resulting opening is evaluated. If there are large voids, they are filled with bricks set in cement mortar. Small potholes can be ignored. If there are cracks, it is better to cover them with a solution too.

Any significant protrusions that may interfere with installation must be removed. You can use a hammer and chisel or a grinder with a cutting disc.

Carefully inspect the condition of the floor under the door frame. In old buildings, a wooden beam is installed in this place. Often it is already rotten and crumbled. If so, delete it.

If the block still looks intact, check the condition of the wood with an awl. With considerable effort, you stick several into the wood, shake them a few times, and take them out. So you check in different parts of the timber. If it enters with difficulty, to a shallow depth, the hole remains small, then everything is fine. If not, it fits in easily, the swaying causes it to crumple and/or crumble, and the wood has become unusable. It also needs to be removed.

The vacated space is filled with the same timber (treated with impregnation against rotting) and laid with bricks. The gaps are filled with solution.

As a result of all these actions, the doorway should be more or less even. So that you can install a new front door without interference.

Installation of metal doors

Steel (metal) doors are most often used as entrance doors. The door frame, door frame and outer surface of the door leaf are made of metal. To ensure the required degree of heat and sound insulation, the canvas is laid with soundproofing material. On the side of the room, the entrance doors can also be covered with metal, or with sheet material (a budget option).

Rubber insulation is laid on the frame along the perimeter of the vestibule (sometimes on the door leaf). It performs two functions: it serves to seal and reduces the strength of the sound that occurs when the door slams. The result is a reliable, warm and “quiet” entrance door.

Preparing the door

Since it is problematic to embed a lock into a metal door, doors are ordered immediately with a lock. You receive a kit that includes a pre-installed lock. Handles come separately. Here they need to be installed in place, screwed with self-tapping screws. Before installation, you need to check the operation of locks and latches. Everything should work smoothly, without effort or problems. If everything is fine, you can begin installing the metal entrance door.

If the doors are installed with access directly to the street (in a private house, for example), the outside of the door frame is lined with insulation. You can use rock wool cut into strips. It is inserted into the frame and held in place by elastic force. It has a significant disadvantage: it is hygroscopic, which is why the doors can rust from the inside (if they stand as an exit to the street and are not tightly sealed). In multi-storey buildings this is not critical: here there is no precipitation in the entrance. Another solution is to install polystyrene foam or fill the frame with foam. They are not afraid of moisture, and the thermal insulation is normal.

To ensure that the paintwork of the box is not damaged during installation and subsequent finishing work, it is covered with masking tape around its perimeter. It is removed after the door slopes have been made. If there are any wires coming through the door frame, it’s time to install the inserts - a piece of plastic pipe or corrugated hose through which these wires will get inside.

Installation of interior doors is described here. Read about installing sliding doors here.

Installation in brick and concrete walls

It is more convenient to install doors in which the panel can be removed. Before installation, it is removed from its hinges. The door frame is inserted into the prepared opening. At the bottom it is placed on mounting pads 20 mm high. She should stand in the opening freely.

By changing the thickness of the pads, we ensure that the lower frame is strictly level. This is checked using a building level. Having set it horizontally, we set it vertically: so that the racks do not deviate either forward or backward, but stand strictly vertically. This is also checked using a level, only the device with a bubble is located on the short part of the tool. Another option is to check with a plumb line.

After the box is level, it is wedged using prepared wedges. They can be cut from wood, or you can buy plastic ones. The wedges are inserted on long posts, three in number, two at the top. They should be placed close to the fastening points, but without blocking them.

After installing the wedges, check once again whether it is positioned correctly: in the horizontal and vertical planes. There should be no deviations.

Next, the installation of the metal door frame in the opening begins. There are two types of mounting holes: steel eyes welded to the box and a through mounting hole (there are actually two of them: in the outer plate with a slightly larger diameter and in the inner plate with a smaller diameter).

There is no difference in the installation method. Simply frames with holes in the body of the box can be installed on thinner walls. This may be important if the entrance door is installed in a panel house: it is not always possible to install doors with lugs in them.

Through-hole mounting

Iron entrance doors are secured to anchors or to pieces of steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The diameter of the fastener is selected to match the existing holes. If anchors are used, their head should fit into the outer hole and “get stuck” in the inner one. The diameter of the fittings must match the diameter of the holes. In any case, holes are pre-drilled for them.

We take a hammer drill, a drill and an anchor. The drill is of the same diameter as the fastener. Its length should be at least 30 cm. To more accurately determine the depth to which you need to drill, masking tape is attached to the drill. It marks a distance that is slightly greater than the required depth.

The installation of fasteners begins on the hinge side. When drilling, it is important not to move the installed frame. First they drill from the top.

Install the anchor, finishing it off with a hammer. To recess it to the inner edge of the box, insert a screwdriver into the slots and tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer. Then, when the anchor is driven in, it is tightened a few more turns with a screwdriver. We check whether the box was moved during work - take a level and check everything.

We install the fasteners below in the same way. We also check verticals and horizontals. If the door leaf is not heavy, you can already check at this stage how correctly the frame is positioned. To do this, hang the doors and check how smoothly they “sit”, whether there are any distortions, cracks and other troubles, how well the locks and latches match and work properly.

If the canvas is made of thick sheet steel and weighs about a hundred kilograms, two fasteners are clearly not enough. Then install all the fasteners on the hinge side, as well as one on the lock side. After installing each fastener, the verticality and horizontality of the box is checked. Then they carefully hang the canvas and check how it “moves”. If everything is fine, continue installing the fasteners. No - you will have to remove the already installed fasteners and re-position the frame.

We place the anchor in the door frame of the front door from below, checking the verticality of the post

After checking, the canvas is removed again, and the already installed anchors are finally tightened. Then they put everything that is needed on the hinge side, then on the lock side. When everything is finally installed, the door leaf is hung in place again.

Now you need to fill the installation gaps with foam. To install an entrance door with your own hands, it is better to take one with a low expansion coefficient: it is easier to work with. In order for the polymerization of the foam to proceed normally, the cavities that will be filled are moistened with water from a spray bottle (ordinary household). Then everything is slowly filled with foam.

You need to blow it across the entire width of the door frame: then there will be no blowing and the sound insulation will be better. When installing a door with iron, you don’t have to worry about the frame breaking apart: the rigidity of the metal is such that the expansion force of the foam is far from insufficient. Therefore, you can foam generously.

Only if foam gets on the canvas should it be removed immediately with a damp cloth. After 5 minutes, you just won’t be able to wipe it off. While wet, it can be removed without leaving a trace. Then you will have to scrape, but this is not painless: traces will remain. Polymerization of the foam will end after 24 hours. Then we can consider that installing the front door with our own hands is completed. All that remains is to make the slopes on the door.

Installation of a box with lugs

If there are welded plates on the box - eyes - the box is placed in the same way: on pads. Then it is leveled and wedged. Then there are two options:

When installing using this method, you need to control the position of the box even more carefully: it is easy to move it from its place. If not corrected, the doors will not work well.

Read how to adjust an entrance door made of metal and plastic here.

Installing an entrance door in a wooden house

In a wooden house, any windows and doors are not mounted directly to the wall, but through a casing or frame. A socket is a wooden beam that is movably attached to a log house (made of logs or timber - it doesn’t matter). It is connected by a tongue/groove connection and is held in place by elastic force. The door frame is already attached to this beam.

This is a necessary measure. After all, a wooden house constantly changes height. For the first five years it shrinks due to shrinkage and compaction of the planting seams. The first year, doors and windows are not installed at all: too big changes. In the second year, changes become less pronounced, but are always present. Therefore, it is impossible to firmly fasten the doors: they can jam or bend, or they will interfere with the normal shrinkage of the log house.

To do this, a groove is cut out in the doorway. They make a casing from timber in the shape of the letter “T”. The width of the groove should be slightly less than the thickness of the tenon: so that they hold well. They insert it into the spike, driving it in with a sledgehammer. That's all. No other fasteners.

Please note: the height of the racks is much less than the height of the opening: after installing the lintel there should be at least 3 cm left for the compensation gap. It is covered with mineral wool. This is also necessary to ensure that the doors do not warp when shrinking.

Installation of an entrance door in a wooden house, sectional view

After installing the casing, a box is attached to it. There is no need to use anchors here. You need powerful self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. It is also necessary to drill holes for them, but take a drill slightly smaller in diameter. Please note: the length of the fasteners should not reach the wall (you can see this in the photo above).

This video shows how to casing, forming a groove in the opening.

This video shows another type of making a socket: a spike is formed in the opening. With a chainsaw, everything is done quickly, but this level of proficiency is accessible to few.

Installation of a door closer is described here.

Installing an entrance door in aerated concrete

Another building material with special features is aerated concrete. It doesn’t hold up well against impact loads, so you won’t be able to mount the entrance doors like they were in a brick wall: they will simply fall out. The solution is this: make a frame from a metal corner that will be held on the wall by a stop.

In this case, jumpers that tighten two corners are made in those places where the fasteners will be located - eyes or mounting holes. And it is on these jumpers that the door will be held.

Features of installation and design of metal doors are in the video.

The second installation method is less common. It requires less time and materials. But how securely an entrance door installed using this technology will stand is unknown. No data yet.

stroychik.ru

Installation of metal and fire doors in aerated concrete, plasterboard and sandwich panels

The topic of installing metal doors, including fire doors, into walls made of lightweight building materials (aerated concrete, plasterboard and sandwich panels) should be logically divided into two components. The first is about the technical feasibility of such actions, and the second is about ways to strengthen the doorway in necessary cases. Further, since it is metal doors that are being considered, we will analyze the technical feasibility from two points of view - burglary resistance and fire resistance of walls made of light building materials - in the openings of which these metal doors are supposed to be installed.

Burglar resistance and the condition of equal strength of the structure

When installing metal doors, property owners probably first of all think about their burglary resistance in protecting the valuables stored in these premises. Even if we are talking about installing simple technical doors, as they are inexpensive and practical, you should still evaluate the feasibility of their installation from the point of view of the equal strength of the entire “door-wall” structure. Exaggerating the topic, it is worth first answering the question - is it necessary to install a metal door in a cardboard house at all? Ideally, it should take approximately the same amount of time for burglars to either force open a door or make a significant hole in a wall to steal property. If the walls are noticeably weaker than the door, then it is better to think about installing cheaper wooden doors. By the way, fire doors can also be made of wood, the fire resistance of which is achieved by applying appropriate fire protection agents in the form of impregnating and coating compounds.

From the point of view of burglary resistance, walls made of foam concrete have the greatest strength among the listed lightweight materials if their thickness is equal to or exceeds 200 mm. The use of modern mortar mixtures makes it possible to build fairly strong walls from autoclaved aerated concrete or slag concrete. Burglars will have to work a lot with a sledgehammer to make a sufficient hole in them.

The next most durable material is sandwich panels. These are large-sized three-layer sheets containing a heat-insulating layer of basalt mineral wool or self-extinguishing polystyrene foam. Burglary resistance of sandwich panels is ensured by outer sheets of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm. To compare the strength, you can imagine how easy it is to make a hole in a two-layer fence from corrugated sheets. Although the galvanized sheets of sandwich panels themselves are relatively easy to cut with roofing scissors or a grinder, the many points of mutual fastening of the sheets will make it quite labor-intensive to cut out a large hole in such a wall that a person can crawl through.

And the least resistant, or rather, completely unresistant to burglary option, are plasterboard walls. Drywall is quite easy to cut with a regular hacksaw, so making a hole in it is a matter of minutes. It’s worth considering whether it’s worth installing a metal door on such walls at all.

Fire resistance of walls made of aerated concrete, plasterboard and sandwich panels

If it is necessary to install fire doors in the openings of walls made of lightweight materials, the fire resistance of the walls themselves should also be assessed. By analogy with burglary resistance, the door-wall structure must have equivalent fire resistance. Accordingly, it makes sense to install doors with a fire resistance limit that would not significantly exceed the fire resistance of the wall itself. Even better, the wall material is more fire resistant than a fire door. In other words, it makes no sense to spend money on a fire door with a fire resistance rating of EI60 (60 minutes), if the walls can resist fire for a noticeably shorter time.

Aerated concrete walls have excellent fire resistance. Autoclave-cured cellular concrete in accordance with GOST 30244-94 “Building materials. Combustibility test methods" refers to non-combustible (NG) materials. SNiP II-2-80 5 determines that a partition made of cellular concrete with a density of 800 kg/m3 and a thickness of 75 mm has a fire resistance limit of 2.5 hours, and a thickness of 80 mm - 3 hours. Accordingly, almost any fire doors can be installed in the openings of aerated concrete walls, and their fire resistance limit will not exceed the fire resistance time of the wall itself. However, it should be noted that aerated concrete, when exposed to high temperatures above 700C, becomes covered with cracks, and at temperatures of 1000C and above completely loses its load-bearing strength. And the strength of aerated concrete that has been in a fire does not return after the wall cools down. This means that after a fire, the aerated concrete wall must be dismantled and rebuilt.

Wall sandwich panels have high fire resistance characteristics due to filling the internal space with basalt wool or other non-combustible material. At the same time, for the construction of fire barriers it is recommended to use sandwich panels with a thickness of at least 100 mm. Such walls have a fire resistance limit of EI150 (2.5 hours). The fire resistance rating of the sandwich panels used to construct a particular wall should be further clarified, since different manufacturers have panels with different characteristics in their product lines.

Plasterboard walls also have high fire resistance characteristics. Leading plasterboard manufacturers, such as Knauf, have tested for fire resistance and certified various options for partitions with a steel frame and infill made of non-combustible boards. The fire resistance of a partition depends both on the number of layers of plasterboard on each side of the partition, and on the grade of plasterboard. In this case, a distinction is made between partitions with sheathing made from ordinary KNAUF sheets (GKL) and partitions with sheathing made from fire-resistant KNAUF sheets (GKLO). Depending on the specified properties of the materials and the number of gypsum plasterboard (O) sheets, the fire resistance limit of plasterboard partitions on a steel frame varies from EI60 (60 minutes) to EI240 (4 hours)

Having considered the fire resistance of walls made from the listed lightweight materials, it should be concluded that they all have high fire resistance and allow the installation of fire doors to create a reliable fire barrier.

Strengthening openings in walls made of aerated concrete, plasterboard and sandwich panels

Since walls made of lightweight building materials do not allow anchors to be reliably fastened in them when installing metal (including fire) doors, openings in such walls must be pre-strengthened. Otherwise, a heavy metal door leaf will eventually lead to either the destruction of the opening or, as in the case of drywall, the wall will “shake” every time the door is opened or closed. The correct construction technology is to strengthen the openings at the stage of wall construction in accordance with the design documentation.

The general rule for strengthening openings in walls made of lightweight materials is to build a supporting metal frame around the opening. The frame is most durable if it is attached simultaneously to the floor and ceiling, made of reinforced concrete slabs or monolithic reinforced concrete (for aerated concrete and plasterboard walls). In the case of sandwich panels, the opening frame is attached by welding or bolts to other load-bearing parts of the metal frame of the building or structure.

According to the theory of strength of materials, frames made of closed metal profiles (square profiles are usually used to strengthen walls), as well as channel-shaped profiles, have the greatest bending strength. Although I-beam profiles also have high bending strength, they are rarely used to strengthen openings due to the inconvenience of attaching the door frame to them.

An opening in a wall made of aerated concrete is usually reinforced with so-called vertical reinforcement, when the frame is covered with aerated concrete blocks. To ensure that the opening frame is more rigidly fixed in the blocks, horizontal reinforcement can also be used. In this case, reinforcing bars are welded “sideways” to the frame, which go inside the aerated concrete wall. Horizontal reinforcement can be carried out along the entire length of the aerated concrete wall with reinforcing bars located at different heights (every 4th or 5th row of masonry).

When strengthening plasterboard partitions, a frame made of strong steel profiles is mounted inside the partition, secured to the floor and ceiling, and only then the entire partition is covered with sheets of plasterboard. Most often, a tubular profile with a square section is used for the frame, or, speaking in professional language, a bent steel profile with a closed welded square section according to GOST 30245-2003.

Since sandwich panels for creating walls are mounted on a pre-designed and assembled metal frame, this frame must initially contain frames for attaching door and window frames. If you need to install a metal door “in place”, then at this point you should disassemble the sandwich panel casing, weld the frame for the opening to the general supporting structure and then return the casing to its original place around the opening.

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Installation and fastening of windows, doors and gates in a house made of aerated concrete

When installing windows, doors and gates in cottages, window companies must follow the standards prescribed in the relevant GOSTs.

Only the installers themselves will be able to explore this topic in depth, and we will limit ourselves to the minimum immersion into this issue necessary for a private individual.

Installation and fastening of windows to aerated concrete

Firstly, if you do not have small “loopholes”, but normal windows, then they must be fastened using plates with a certain pitch (3 plates for a 2-meter window).

This is a standard, it is prescribed in GOST for window manufacturers.

Secondly, according to GOST, the use of vapor barrier is required.

Indoors, a vapor barrier film is glued to the assembly seam.

But keep in mind that this film has poor adhesion and there may be problems with plastering these areas in the future.

Window companies are aware of this standard and often offer to abandon it - to do it without vapor barrier in order to reduce installation costs. Do it according to the norm or save on it – it’s up to you to decide. I would do it according to GOST.

Thirdly, according to GOST, the thickness of the profile and the mandatory foaming of installation joints are standardized.

Now a little about the installation features, specifically in a house made of aerated concrete.

According to GOST, plates are used not only for aerated concrete, but for any wall material, depending on the size of the window.

The only difference in installation in aerated concrete is that it is necessary to use special anchors for cellular concrete. Depending on the weight of the window, aerated concrete anchors of the required sizes are used.

Another important point about installing windows

Another important point is to use stainless fasteners; the profile must also be either stainless or galvanized, otherwise rust will appear later.

Let's summarize by windows

In the contract with window installers, be sure to specify installation according to GOST, warranty period, fittings, thickness of plastic, profile, size of anchors, etc.

So you can be confident that you are getting exactly what you paid for.

Pay special attention to the use of special plates and special fasteners for cellular concrete. This is easy to check, just watch the installers during installation - are there plates or not, do they screw in hardened screws or use special anchors?

Keep an eye on this.

Installation and fastening of doors in a house made of aerated concrete

In fact, it’s about the same story as with windows.

It is mandatory to use plates and special anchors for cellular concrete in accordance with GOST. Do not hesitate to ask questions to the installer - how many plates and why he decided to use; from his answers it will be clear whether he knows the calculated load for your door or not.

Installation and fastening of gates in a house made of aerated concrete

If we are fastening heavy swing gates, then the usual fasteners do not pass the load.

It is necessary to strengthen the fastening, and for this you can scald the frame with corners on the inside and outside, and then hang the gate on it. Thus, we strengthen the node.

In short, we take 50 - 70 corners.

We scald the outside and inside and connect them together with a plate.

We attach this structure to the wall using plates. We get a hard knot. Now you can attach heavy swing gates to it and not be afraid that they will vomit when open.

If we do not strengthen, but use even 200 anchors, then the likelihood that the gate will be torn out is very high.

This is a rather complex topic and, as I already wrote, only the installers of windows, doors and gates themselves know it deeply and can clarify it. And your task is to filter the normal specialists to whom you entrust the work. I hope the nuances that I described in the article will help you with this. Good luck!

Find out more about aerated concrete and construction with it at the training center "Aerated concrete63.ru"

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Installing an entrance door in aerated concrete

Installing an entrance door in aerated concrete On a large opening I want to install a metal “non-armored door” with MDF overlays on the second opening made in China. 2. Drilling the anchors at an angle so that they can be anchored from the inside with wide washers or corners, followed by plastering of the anchors 3. Using chimankers. As a lazy person, I would like to try the option with chemical anchors.

Who fastened windows and doors (especially iron) in aerated concrete walls?

Who fastened windows and doors (especially iron) in walls made of aerated concrete? How did they fasten windows and (especially iron) in walls made of (density 500).

I am very glad that on this forum people are actively discussing building a house from. Very useful for people who are just on the way to their dream)) In my opinion, iron in aerated concrete cannot be secured properly.

We need to make a shell out of brick.

Self-installation of the front door

Independent entrance Preparation for installation.

Required materials and tools

As for the entrance tools, you need to prepare a hammer drill with a drill and a shovel, a water level, a measuring tape, a large hammer and sledgehammer, a grinder, a board and an ax.

Installation of windows and doors in a house with walls made of aerated concrete blocks

Installation of windows in a house with walls made of aerated concrete blocks Usually, a country builder who is building a house from autoclaved aerated concrete for the first time has a preconception as to whether the strength of the wall material is sufficient for installing windows and.

Some who doubt the strength of aerated concrete cast concrete boxes or line door and window openings with brick, “as a more durable material.”

Installation of entrance to aerated concrete

Installation of standard entrance sizes If a wooden door is installed, the width of which is not more than 91 cm, then the installation is carried out using standard technology. That is, with fastening using metal anchors or plastic dowels with long self-tapping screws.

How to install an entrance door in aerated concrete

How to install the entrance to Aerated concrete is widely used for the construction of various buildings instead of the usual brick and cinder block.

This material has many advantages: strength, lightness, excellent heat and sound insulation, large sizes that speed up the construction process. But there are also some disadvantages. So, due to the porosity of the material, installing an entrance door in aerated concrete differs from traditional technology.

KomuBeton.ru How to install a door into a house made of foam block Naturally, sooner or later the house builder faces the question of how to install a door made of foam block in a house. Foam block belongs to cellular concrete.

It has many advantages: easy to process; weighs a little; its thermal conductivity is 3 times greater than that of brick and 8 times that of concrete; soundproofing; vapor barrier; chemical and biological resistance, corrosion resistance.

How to properly install an entrance door in aerated concrete?

How to correctly install the entrance to aerated concrete? New types of cellular concrete: gas and foam concrete are replacing the usual cinder block and brick. These materials have many advantages, but there are also disadvantages.

The instructions for the device differ from the traditional ones, since cellular concrete is porous.

When ordering windows or doors, remember that the dimensions of the structure should be 1 centimeter less than the opening.

Installation of metal doors. Window arrangement

Preparatory activities
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When a person buys metal doors, it happens that he does not calculate the amount for dismantling the old one and installing a new one. Therefore, there are two decisions left to make: either he will install the front door himself, or call people who will do it. The second is in itself expensive, because you have to shell out a certain amount from the family budget again. It’s easier to do it with your own hands (see).

How to install metal entrance doors yourself

To install a new door, it is necessary to dismantle the old one. To do this, first separate the door leaf from the frame. It must be removed from its hinges, if the fastening was on hinges, and set aside. Now remove the box. If the box is metal, then use a grinder to remove the connections between the box and the fastening rods. If wooden blocks were used for fastening, then unscrew the screws from the countersunk holes.

Then cut the box into two parts and remove it. If you want to save it, you need to carefully pull it out of the doorway using a crowbar and a hammer.

Now the question is whether you will increase the door connector or decrease it. Widening a doorway is a simple and uncomplicated matter. Using a special tool - a grinder, and a crowbar, destroy the part of the wall necessary for installing the iron entrance door. Most often, problems arise among people who install their own front door with a smaller opening. It is much easier to reduce the opening by 10 centimeters than by 50. In the first case, fill the extra distance with brick and plaster it. In the second case, you will have to make a small frame to fit the opening, and seal the remaining part between the wall and the frame with mortar. Attach the frame to the wall.

After the opening is prepared, you can begin installing the metal entrance door yourself.

Step one

Required tool for installation:

• hammer;
• anchor bolts;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• plumb line;
• crowbar or nail puller.

Installation of steel entrance doors occurs as follows. First, unpack the door you brought. Along with it there should be anchor bolts that will fasten the box to the wall. Their size should not exceed 15 cm in length and be less than 10 cm. The diameter of the anchor bolt is 12-15 mm. If you do not find them with the purchased door, then you need to purchase them at any hardware store.

After unpacking, do not remove the protective film! It will protect the door from scratches that can be caused during the installation of the entrance door in the Khrushchev-era building.

Step two

Now, together with an assistant, you should install the entrance box. But first you need to check it for verticality and horizontality. To check, use a level or plumb line. Once everything is fine with the dimensions and geometry of the box, insert it into the doorway. Place wood wedges under the box. Now level the door block.

It is necessary to check with a level the part of the frame to which the hinges of the door leaf will be attached. If the doorway, like the walls, is leveled in advance, then installing it will not be difficult. The box itself will stand up the way it needs to.

You need to start attaching the block to the wall from the top part, where the hinges of the door leaf are located. Drill a hole with a drill and insert an anchor into it. The anchor must be screwed in completely, but not tightened. Then move on to the next step.

Drill a hole in the bottom eye and insert an anchor. Do everything the same as with the top one. Repeat the same steps on the opposite side and the upper and lower parts.

Don’t forget to always check the location of the box with a level to avoid unnecessary problems when hanging the canvas.

Even if your frame wobbles a little, there’s nothing to worry about. Then everything will be foamed with polyurethane foam and the door will become stable and unshakable.

Step three

Now proceed to installing the door leaf on the hinges. After this, check the door for opening and closing, latching the lock. If you did everything correctly and leveled the door frame, the door will not open or close on its own. But doing this will not be difficult for a person.

However, if the lock bolts cling to the frame or part of the door where the lock is located also clings to the door frame, then it is necessary to tighten the door hinges to the required level.

Step four - last

Once the door has been installed and tested, it should be sealed. Sealing occurs as follows, using polyurethane foam.

Take a can of polyurethane foam and shake well. Now fill the remaining openings and gaps between the frame and the wall. The only place where polyurethane foam is not used is the threshold. Fill it with concrete mortar. The fact is that the foam will deform and crumble over time due to constant walking.

Do not use the door after sealing with foam for six hours. This is done so that it is finally fixed in the opening.

One of the methods for installing a door frame was described above. It's called wall drowning. It is usually done in those houses where the walls are more than 40 cm thick. Otherwise, thieves can easily tear it out of the wall.

Therefore, on such walls the box is fixed using plates that are located on the side posts. The plates are connected to the wall using steel rods or anchor bolts.

It is better to strengthen the doorway from a channel or metal corners. This will strengthen and provide additional protection for installing an iron door if your house or apartment previously had a wooden one. This approach will protect the opening from sagging and destruction of the materials in this place from which the house is made.

Below is a diagram of the installation of metal doors.

After installing the door and sealing it, the foam that has come out must be carefully removed along with the wall, and the opening must be plastered.

Cash strips can be installed on the inside if desired. But, if steel entrance doors have been installed that have a massive door frame, then casings are not necessary. Since the design itself involves a beautiful design.

Installing a door in aerated concrete

Aerated concrete itself is a very fragile material. Therefore, installing a street door is difficult.

If the front door is smaller than the doorway, then it is necessary to cut the blocks using a special saw to the desired size.

The door frame is attached to aerated concrete in three ways. In the first case, you should already have metal embedded in the walls, to which the opening will be attached. For a height of 2.1 meters, three mortgages are calculated, the mustaches of which are recessed into the seam of the masonry. The box is attached using anchor bolts to the mortgages.

The dimensions of the mortgages are 100x75x8 mm. The whiskers are made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm.

It happens that when building a house they forget about mortgages. Then strengthening the opening with wood will come to the rescue. In order to install the front door in aerated concrete without mortgages, you need a U-shaped frame made of boards. The width of the latter should be equal to the thickness of the wall. The dimensions of the boards or timber are 40 mm. They are connected to each other by a board. The box is attached to the slopes with anchors. And to add beauty, cut out a groove where the timber will be inserted. The box is attached to the frame with anchors.

Wooden strapping is an easy and cheap way to strengthen the opening, but the most unreliable.

The wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic. Use only oak or larch.

Installation of entrance doors with wooden frame

Installation of external doors in a private house made of aerated concrete with wooden framing:

• after making the strapping and installation, the box is inserted into the formed reinforced opening and secured with anchors;
• the metal entrance door is hung and adjusted;
• the gaps are sealed with polyurethane foam.

The last reliable and high-quality way to install a door in aerated concrete is to reinforce the opening with a metal frame. The structure, which is made of metal for this method, replicates the wooden reinforcement. Only instead of wood, a corner measuring 100x75x8 mm is used. Two sets are made: one - facade, the other - internal.

The manufactured frame frames the corners of the walls made of cellular concrete and is welded together with jumpers 5 cm wide and 3 mm thick. Attach the plates at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then plaster the slopes and install the entrance frame for the door. It is attached with anchors to the frame. Then hang the door on its hinges.

Due to the fragility of the material, screws should not be driven in, but screwed in. Reinforce the walls next to the frame with reinforced mesh. Protect the metal from corrosion with a primer. Foam the joints with polyurethane foam and cover with mastic.

Do not use pins to connect the frame to the wall. A backlash will form and the hole with the pin will increase with use. As a result, the frame may fall out.

Installing an entrance door in a brick house

Replacing the front door in a brick house requires a special approach. First, you need to consider its design. It should not contrast or stand out sharply from the general background. Secondly, it must be durable, soundproof and reliable to protect the owner not only from burglars, but also from street noise. Thirdly, the door is divided according to the elements of the entrance groups.

• swing;
• sliding

Installing a swing door is the same as installing a metal door to an apartment. Sliding frame consisting of two guide rails at the top and bottom. The doors can open in different directions or move only in one direction.

So we looked at various examples of replacing the front door in houses made of concrete and brick. Now let's look at how to install an iron door in a wooden house.

Installing a door in a wooden house with your own hands

Entrance doors are installed only after six months or more have passed after the walls have been erected. When the house undergoes major shrinkage.

Installation of a metal door in a timber house occurs only after the opening has been reinforced with casing. For this we need:

• milling cutter;
• laser level;
• bar;
• saw;
• self-tapping screws

Cut an opening in the wooden wall to install the door frame. Use a router to make a 50x50 mm groove in the end. Then hammer a block of the same cross-section into it. If the work is done in a house where shrinkage has occurred, then use a beam 2 cm shorter than the length of the groove.

If the house is built from rounded timber, then hem the board up to 5 cm thick. Its width is equal to the thickness of the wall. Connect it to the wall using screws or nails. Sew the board so that the opening does not move, since the twisting and bending forces in such a house are great.

When installing a metal door in a wooden house, you don’t have to make the top frame of the frame.

Since the metal box is strong and powerful enough to withstand the pressure of the beam. Therefore, during installation, leave a gap of 10 cm at the top for shrinkage. Make the side carriages of the frame the same height as the door itself.

Installation of a metal door in a frame house

To install an iron door in a frame house, it is necessary to strengthen the opening.

Tools you will need:

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• level;
• roulette.

Make the casing box from timber. Place the jambs on four sides and secure them in the frame. With the help of an assistant, insert the front door frame into the opening, while the door should be open. Place wedges prepared in advance from a wooden block under the threshold. Using a level, level the position of the box relative to the floor and walls of the frame.

If there are any deviations, then it is necessary to knock out wooden wedges or insert additional ones. Close and open the canvas. Try closing and opening the lock pawl. If everything is fine and nothing is clinging to the door, then proceed to fixing the frame to the walls.

Drill holes for anchor bolts all the way through. Screw in the bolts and check the door again for opening and closing.

If the entire door does not show any deviations, then fix the lintel and threshold part with anchor bolts.

After securing all sides, check the door again. And only after all the checks, screw the bolts into the base of the frame until they stop.

Then fill the cracks and gaps between the box and the frame with foam. Do this from floor to ceiling. Fill the seam only 60%. Wait until the foam hardens.

Fill the gaps between the threshold and the frame with sealant. Check the operation of the door leaf again for opening and closing. Close the gaps with foam with casing.

All door installation work must be performed by two people. One person will not be able to cope with powerful metal doors.

Door blocks weigh more than fifty kilograms and therefore it is dangerous to work alone! The installation of doors from iron is carried out in the same way as the installation of an iron door.

It is preferable to use metal doors from trusted companies. The fabrics have a high coefficient of heat transfer resistance and are insulated with special materials. The outside of the door is covered with a waterproofing film, and the inside is covered with a vapor barrier film.

Installation of an entrance door in a frame house - video

Install narrow doors, mounting them using special fasteners. This will make the structure durable.

Entrance door

An old English proverb says: “My home is my castle.” To ensure that “the fortress does not fall to the mercy of the winner” in the absence of the owner, the door must be correctly installed in an aerated concrete wall.

Aerated concrete, popular due to its efficiency, has a significant drawback - low strength. It is possible to install a door in the opening of a wall made of blocks, but the fragility of the material will lead to the gradual loosening of the heavy metal door. It is not uncommon for poorly secured doors to fall out of the opening along with the door frame. There are several ways to securely fasten a door:

1. Construction reinforcement with embedded parts (performed simultaneously with the laying of walls).
2. Reinforced with wood construction.
3. Reinforced with metal structure.

The width and height of doorways are determined at the stage of wall construction. Here you cannot do without the size using a special power tool or a regular one.

Strengthening the opening of the mortgage

The first method of fastening is reliable. It is provided for in the design documentation for the house.

Simultaneously with the laying of the walls, the doorway in the aerated concrete wall is reinforced with an embedded part from a metal corner with a cross-section of at least 100x75x8 mm with a mustache made of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm welded to it after 600 - 900 mm. The mustache is placed in the seam of the masonry.

Mortgages are installed on each side of the opening, their number depends on the height of the door. With a height of 2.1 m there are three mortgages.

In the upper section, the mustache is placed in the seams between the jumper elements.

The box is attached to the mortgages with anchors.

Sequence of work:

1. Make the required number of mortgages with welded mustaches;
2. Perform anti-corrosion protection of mortgages;
3. Install mortgages during the process of laying walls;
4. Align the box vertically and horizontally;
5. Attach the box to the mortgage anchors;
6. Fill the seams with foam;
7. On the facade side, protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation with a plaster solution.

All connections are welded; the length of the mustaches is at least 1200 mm; elements in contact with the masonry and mortar are protected with an anti-corrosion coating.

Reinforcing the opening with wood construction

Unfortunately, not all creators of projects, especially standard ones, are concerned about protecting housing from unauthorized entry. If the walls are erected, but there is no metal framing the entrance door opening, the opening is reinforced using the second method - an overhead structure made of wood.

In this case A U-shaped frame made of boards is attached along the perimeter of the opening to the thickness of the wall. External and internal piping is made of timber with a cross-section of at least 40x60 mm or boards 40x100 mm. The strappings are connected to each other with a board 20-40 mm thick using self-tapping screws. The wooden frame is secured to the slopes with anchors. To prevent the frame from protruding from the plane of the wall, a groove can be cut along the perimeter of the opening from the facade side to the size of the timber. The door frame is secured into the opening with anchors.

Sequence of work:

1. Prepare the wall with a strengthening primer or mesh;
2. Prepare two sets of timber according to the dimensions of the opening - two in height, one in width;
3. Fasten the U-shaped structures with anchors and install them in the opening from the outside and inside;
4. Frame the slope, fastening the structure with screws or anchors (dowel - screws);
5. Secure the frame to the slopes with dowels - screws;
6. Insert the box into the opening and secure it with anchors;
7. Seal the joints in the same way as the first method.

Use wood impregnated with fire retardant and antiseptic. For this design, it is better to use “heavy” types of wood - oak, larch.

A wooden structure will narrow the doorway by approximately 100 mm. Safe evacuation standards require the width of the entrance door leaf to be at least 800 mm, and the opening - 900 mm. As a result, it may be necessary to increase the opening, which is not always feasible.

Reinforcing the opening with a metal frame

The third method structurally repeats the previous one, but is made of metal.

Corners are cut according to the size of the doorway with a profile of at least 100x75x8: two openings in height, one in width - two sets: front and interior.

The corners are joined by welding into the frame, frames frame the outer and inner edges of the wall.

Then frames are connected to each other by overlays made of metal plates 50 wide, 3-4 mm thick, the length of the plate depends on the wall thickness, every 500-600 mm. There must be at least three plates along the height of the door. Instead of plates, the corners can be secured with reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm.

After completing the piping, the slopes are plastered. Then the door is installed. The box is secured with anchors to the metal corners of the frame.

Sequence of work:

1. Prepare the wall for work (strengthening the masonry with a primer or mesh);
2. Prepare metal for framing: two sets of corners - two along the height of the opening, one along the width, connecting plates (the number depends on the size of the opening, but at least three on the sides, two at the top);
3. Weld the corners into U-shaped frames, clean the seams;
4. All metal elements should be primed and painted;
5. Install the frames in the opening, fasten them with welding plates;
6. Fasten the frames in the slopes with anchors (dowels - screws) along the overlays;
7. Plaster the slopes;
8. Attach the box to the plates with anchors;
9. Seal the joints.

Reinforcing an opening with a frame made of corners is as reliable as a mortgage in masonry.

Note:

• Cellular concrete blocks are a fragile material, Impact tools must not be used to fasten structures. All anchors are screw-in (dowel - screws);
• Before carrying out work, it is recommended to prime the slopes and edges of the doorway with reinforcing soil or glue a construction mesh to give additional strength;
• If installation is carried out in aerated concrete using the second or third method in a wall with insulation, the additional thickness of the insulation should be taken into account;
• To prevent the formation of “cold bridges” (freezing of metal, formation of ice and condensation), take measures to thermally protect the box. If the frame of the selected door does not have insulation, fill it with polyurethane foam or liners made of any insulation - penoplex, mineral or basalt wool.
• Protect metal elements (corners, plates or fittings) in contact with the masonry from corrosion with a special primer or metal paint.

After the box is installed, coat all seams. It is best to use sealant. The cracks also need to be removed; polyurethane foam is excellent for this. When it hardens, remove the excess by carefully cutting off the remaining foam with a knife, and apply mastic to the cut areas.

You should not secure the box using ordinary pins made from reinforcement for this purpose. This method is still suitable for buildings made of brick, but not for aerated concrete blocks. The fact is that a steel rod, if driven into a block, will crush the structure. Already at the very beginning there will be a slight backlash, which will increase during operation. As a result, the box may fall out.

Any of the proposed installation methods, carried out in accordance with the recommendations, guarantees you protection from unwanted visits and safety of property. The work can be done independently, but requires skill and the ability to use construction tools. You will get the best results from the hands of a professional.

Interior door

Installing an interior door is not as difficult a task as it seems at first glance. True, it requires time, accuracy and skills in working with construction tools - a drill, a level, a chisel.

Choose

Most often installed in housing two door heights(2.1 and 2.4 m) and four in width: 0.7 m for toilet, bath and shower; 0.8 m for kitchen and bedrooms; 0.9 or 1.3 m for the living room and family room.

We measure the opening before purchasing! The size of the opening cannot exceed by more than 5-50 mm the size of the door frame.

If the gap is more than 50 mm, the opening must be adjusted using a mounting board.

Factories specializing in carpentry produce doors in kits, which include:

• box
• door leaf
• accessories
• set of fasteners

The additional elements necessary for framing the opening (platbands, glazing beads) and locking fittings (handles, locks) are purchased separately.

Specialized factories produce sets of doors fully prepared for installation, this makes the work easier and eliminates the need to measure and manually select sockets for fittings with a chisel, or purchase additional fittings.

Preparing the tools

For a quality installation you need:

• Drill
• Clamp
• Screws, for example 80×5
• Hammer
• Hacksaw
• Chisel
• Screwdrivers straight and Phillips
• Spacers and wedges (wood or plastic)
• Right angle square
• Square 45 degrees
• Level or plumb
• Roulette
• Pencil
• Scotch tape or masking tape

A clamp, squares and a hacksaw will be needed if we are installing a door with a frame of a universal size, consisting of separate parts.

If the purchased door has snap-on trim, then a drill and chisel will not be required.

We mount

Let's consider the sequence of installing a swing door in a partition made of gas silicate blocks.

When laying brick walls, mounting plugs (at least two on each side of the opening) are placed in the slopes of the openings - wooden blocks, to which the box is then attached.

It is impossible to install plugs in walls made of large blocks, and The box is fastened to the slopes using mounting foam or dowel screws. Due to the fragility of gas silicate, impact tools cannot be used.

Attention!

In order not to damage the front surfaces of the door, it is advisable to cover the frame and edge of the door with tape.

We begin installation by assembling the frame (if the door is equipped with a frame of universal size):

1. We measure the lintel (the upper element of the frame) according to the width of the door leaf plus 7 mm and the upper edge of the correct jambs, saw off with a hacksaw at an angle of 45°;
2. Alternately, we join the top and side elements of the box, clamp them with a clamp, drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, remove the jamb from the clamp and drill the hole to 4.5 mm;
3. We connect the jambs and the lintel with screws;
4. if necessary, add a threshold:
   • saw off to the width of the blade plus 7 mm;
   • in the racks we cut out quarters from the side of the vestibule;
   • we assemble the box, mark and drill holes for screws;
   • remove the threshold, drill the hole to 4.5 mm;
   • We put the threshold in place and tighten it with self-tapping screws.

Before installing the frame, unpack the door leaf and check compliance with the door frame, check the opening direction, install fittings if necessary:

1. mark on the canvas and box the installation location of the hinges, handles and, if necessary, lock;
2. We mark the contours of the loops on the canvas and the box;
3. we select the recesses with a chisel, fasten the fittings;
4. we try on the hinges and mark the attachment points in place;
5. Drill holes for screws at the fastening points;
6. screw the hinges and install the handles.

Install the door frame in the opening:

1. Check the direction the door opens.
2. We insert the prepared spacers into the box. We insert the box into the opening, securing it with wedges located opposite the spacers.
3. We align the box with a plumb line or level, and tap the wedges. Repeat installation and positioning of the door at least twice.
4. The box framed with platbands is enough to be fixed into the partition with polyurethane foam. After hardening, cut off excess foam with a knife. We install extensions and platbands.

Attention!

If the door does not have platbands, we fasten the frame into the opening with a dowel - screws.

If the door is equipped with a threshold and is installed in a room where water leaks are possible (bathroom, shower, laundry), the threshold must be protected from moisture: the installation gap is filled with silicone sealant.

We hang the door leaf. Work is done!

Useful video

Very detailed instructions for installing an interior door:

The methods listed above are good for installing interior and entrance doors. Aerated concrete blocks will not crumble, and the door frame will be securely fixed in the opening.

Houses made of aerated concrete and foam concrete can be found in any cottage cooperatives. This is due to the fact that these materials are cheap, have excellent heat and sound insulation properties and can be decorated with various materials. Aerated concrete, decorated with decorative bricks, is no different from brick buildings from afar. After the construction of the frame and roof, it is necessary to begin interior work. Installing the entrance door to a house made of aerated concrete is a key step before finishing begins.

Installation of a metal door in aerated concrete can begin only after preparation. The gas block is a cellular material that crumbles under heavy loads. If intruders want to break into the premises, they will not open the metal door. It will be easier for them to tear it out with fastenings. Preparatory work depends on whether the house is new or old.

If the building is new, you need to mark the passage and cut it out using a large grinder. Next, the surfaces are leveled to the building level. If the house is old, you need to dismantle the frame and canvas. The door is removed from its hinges, and the frame is carefully detached from the walls and removed.

Important! Do not use rough tools during dismantling. Due to vibration, the integrity of the cellular material may be compromised.

Afterwards it is necessary to level the working surfaces. When there are no complaints about the level, the gas blocks need to be coated with a primer, which will protect them from the destructive effects of moisture. If there is no primer, you can use waterproofing tape, which comes with a self-adhesive part. Primer has a major advantage over tape. It strengthens the structure of the material 50 mm deep.

At the preparation stage, it is important to choose in order to know what size the passage should be. If the opening needs to be smaller, it can be filled with brick or cinder blocks. If you need to enlarge, use a hammer drill and a large grinder.

Materials and tools

Construction work must begin after preparing tools and consumables. You will need:

1. Hammer, hacksaw for cutting foam and gas blocks.
2. Big Bulgarian.
3. Hammer drill, screwdriver.
4. Accessories for power tools.
5. Construction level, tape measure, marking devices.
6. Polyurethane foam, fasteners.

Installation of entrance doors into aerated concrete openings should begin after preparing everything necessary. Otherwise, you will have to interrupt the process and look for the missing tools.

Methods for installing doors in aerated concrete houses

You can install a door in an aerated concrete house in the same way as in buildings made of wood, metal, or panels. However, in this case, the fastening elements may become loose over time, and the door leaf will not be able to perform its main task - to protect the room from strangers.

To reliably protect yourself from intruders, cold, moisture and noise, you need to choose non-standard installation methods. There are three in total:

1. Fastening with anchors.
2. Installation on a welded frame.
3. Using wooden strapping.

Anchor mounting

It is considered the cheapest and easiest installation method. For fastening, special anchors are used that are suitable for cellular materials. Aerated concrete anchors are devices that are screwed into the block. At the moment of tightening, the fastener is divided into two parts and securely fixed in the wall. To increase reliability and strength, an adhesive mass is used. Before screwing in, holes are made in the wall, which are filled with glue, and the anchors are screwed into them. After hardening, the polymers securely hold the fasteners, preventing the door from loosening or falling out.

Installation on wood frame

Additional wooden trim is installed in passages with increased load or when installing heavy door blocks. If there is a possibility that additional load will be applied to the canvas and the frame, wooden elements are installed. These can be individual bars, planks, slats or a box. The latter option allows you to evenly distribute the load across the opening.

Important! Before installing wood framing, you need to prepare the wood in advance. It must be impregnated with waterproofing and antifungal compounds.

The choice of wooden structure will depend on the weight of the door. If the interior panel is made of fiberboard, chipboard, or MDF, you can install two parallel bars and secure anchors in them. However, if we are talking about a heavy metal door, it is necessary to assemble a full-fledged wooden frame, which will ensure reliable fixation of the door system.

Installation on a welded frame

It is considered a simple, reliable and durable way to strengthen the door block. It involves installing the box and canvas on a welded frame. It is made of iron corners and jumpers that connect the individual elements.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a metal frame:

1. First of all, the dimensions of the passage are taken. Corners are cut along them. One set should go to the outside, the second to the inside.
2. When the corners are prepared, you need to weld two frames. To do this, metal elements are placed in their places and welded at the ends to each other. If the work is done correctly, you should end up with two rectangular frames.
3. After making the frames, it is necessary to make metal jumpers that will hold the rectangular structures together. To do this you will need a thin steel sheet (3 mm).
4. The frames are fixed to the wall using aerated concrete anchors and welded using metal jumpers.
5. Additionally, the jumpers are secured to the cellular blocks using self-tapping screws.
6. Next comes the installation of the door block. For this, 15-centimeter self-tapping screws are used, which must be screwed into the walls through metal jumpers.
7. When the door is installed level and without distortion, you can fill the empty spaces between the aerated concrete and the frame with insulation or sealant.
8. After installation along the contour, the door frame must be foamed with foam.

Features of installing heavy doors in aerated concrete

When installing heavy door blocks, builders recommend using anchors with adhesive filling. To do this, you need to pre-drill holes 15 cm deep in the cellular blocks and fix the spire with anchors in them. Next, the box is fixed to the prepared surfaces using self-tapping screws.

If a person plans to do the work independently, he should use the recommendations of specialists:

1. You cannot install the door on metal bars that have been hammered into blocks. During driving, the cellular structure is crushed and an initial backlash is formed. At first it will not be noticeable when the door is in use, however, over time it will become larger and disrupt the stability of the door.
2. The question often arises about how to install an entrance door in a house made of aerated concrete if the wall is insulated. To do this, you need to cut off the old thermal insulation material 20 cm from the box in all directions. After installation is completed, new insulation must be installed.
3. It is imperative to additionally insulate metal frames. They freeze quickly and allow cold to enter the room.
4. During installation of insulation, you must constantly check the building level and plumb line.

Adjusting the door leaf

Anyone can adjust the door system without additional skills. For example, you can get rid of squeaks by lubricating the moving elements. To do this, use a syringe filled with motor oil or WD-40.

If the sounds do not disappear, you need to carefully inspect the fastenings on the box. Sometimes the mounting bolts, screws or anchors are not “recessed” enough, and the canvas rubs against them when closing and opening. You need to tighten them tighter.

To get rid of minor distortion, you can use a hexagon. The new doors have the ability to adjust the position of the leaf vertically and horizontally. Typically, adjustment elements are located in hinges.

When installing doors in houses made of aerated concrete or foam blocks, special attention must be paid to the cellular structure of these materials. It does not allow the use of classical installation methods. You need to choose one of three installation options and carry out the work carefully.