The issue of algal outbreaks in an aquarium periodically plagues both beginners and professionals in the aquarium craft. And why all? Because these unwanted guests can appear both in a “young” and “old” body of water.
An experienced aquarist will immediately notice an unwanted algae and, knowing approximately its name or genus, will quickly neutralize it, preventing an outbreak. But it’s difficult for beginners!
The situation is further aggravated by the diversity of information on the issue of algae control. Some say: keep the aquarium in the dark, others, on the contrary, increase the daylight hours! Some say: you have an overdose of fertilizers in the aquarium, while others, on the contrary, say you don’t have enough macro fertilizers, etc.
Let's figure out what's wrong in the aquarium?! How to deal with this! Let's debunk the legends and myths about algae.
What is aquarium algae?
Many beginners call aquarium plants algae and vice versa plants are called algae! This is a fundamentally incorrect understanding of the essence of plant nature.
Aquarium plants- These are the highest plants of the plant world. In an aquarium these are the same plants as in a field or on the lawn near the house. This is a biological kingdom, one of the main groups of multicellular organisms, including mosses, ferns, horsetails, mosses, etc.
Seaweed- these are the lower ones. A heterogeneous ecological group of predominantly phototrophic unicellular, colonial or multicellular organisms, usually living in an aquatic environment, systematically representing a collection of many divisions. Entering into symbiosis with fungi, these organisms, in the course of evolution, formed completely new organisms - lichens.
Having distinguished between these two concepts, we decided who exactly we need to fight. Our aquarium enemy is algae, the lowest of the plant world!
Methods of fighting and getting rid of aquarium algae
At the dawn of our site, a simple article was written: PLAQUE ON THE AQUARIUM WALLS AND STONES. Time passed, and to our surprise, even such a short article gained popularity! Yes and on forum, guys often ask for help in fighting these nasty “raids.”
Well, it's probably time to put everything in order!
So, here are the basic and effective methods of combating green, brown, brown, black, blue-green algae.
1. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO DETERMINE WHAT KIND OF PLAQUE IT IS, WHAT KIND OF ALGAE!
Like plants, there are a large number of algae, as well as their species and subspecies. Of course, it is not possible to know all of them, but you need to know the group, the genus of these algae! The effectiveness of the fight and the actions that need to be taken depend on this.
This is where all the confusion in the advice on the forums lies: turn down the lights, turn on the lights... Everyone has different algae outbreaks, different aquariums, different lighting, water and aquatic organisms.
Below, in this article, we will discuss the main and most common algae in the aquarium and the specifics of combating them.
2. BIO-BALANCE OF THE AQUARIUM IS OUR EVERYTHING!
The root cause of any aquarium trouble is the absence or disturbance of biobalance in the aquarium, that is, the mutual balance of all aquatic organisms (fish, plants, mollusks, algae, fungi, bacteria, etc.).
You will be surprised, but spores of various algae, as well as bacteria and fungi, are always present in the aquarium! They all perform their function, for example, cleaning the aquarium from dead organic matter, removing poisons from the aquarium (ammonium, nitrites and nitrates), etc. In other words, the aquarium is not sterile - it is a living organism, from various groups, colonies of living organisms visible and invisible to humans.
An algae outbreak is a visual evidence of a violation (lack) of biobalance in the aquarium. This is the loss of some link in the balance!
Having found out which link has fallen out, you need to return it to its place. What is difficult for a beginner to do!
Here are the main reasons for the loss of the biobalance link:
- lack of daylight or using the “wrong” lamps with the “wrong” spectrum. Accordingly, you need to increase daylight hours or remove lamps with a “bad” spectrum and buy lamps of the required spectrum or buy additional lamps of the missing spectrum. More details Aquarium lighting and lamp selection And DIY aquarium lighting. This point, for example, is relevant for diatoms that appear in “young aquariums” and that do not like intense lighting.
- the presence of excess dead organic matter and dirt in the aquarium(dead plants, fish, food residues, waste products of aquatic organisms, etc.). Simply put, the aquarium does not have time to cope with so much “garbage” and the only way out for our beloved, living aquarium is to call for help from algae, which will happily eat up all this rubbish.
Accordingly, you need to remove all the “garbage”: siphon the bottom of the aquarium, clean the walls, decor and equipment, mechanically try to remove algae, as well as make more frequent and more complete water changes with fresh water; in the end, you can pour aquarium charcoal into the filter compartment .
The next reason follows from the one described above and is a disastrous continuation of the accumulation of “dirt” in the aquarium. All dead organic matter is decomposed by beneficial bacteria and fungi and removed from the aquarium. If there is a lot of this dead organic matter and it accumulates, microorganisms do not have time to process it! Toxins begin to accumulate in the aquarium - decomposition products: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, which leads not only to the appearance of algae, but generally destroys all life in the aquarium.
In addition to the measures described above for thoroughly cleaning the aquarium, you need to use aquarium preparations that either absorb poisons or help increase the colony of beneficial nitrifying bacteria, for example: 
A) Zeolite. Sold in pet stores or other places. A mixture of zeolite and coal is found everywhere Fluval Zeo-Carb.
On a note: You need to know that aquarium charcoal is not effective against poisons and only an ion exchange resin - zeolite - removes them.
B) Biostarters, as well as drugs that help increase colonies of beneficial bacteria. Simply put, these are drugs that contain the very bacteria that decompose poisons. There are a lot of such drugs, for example, popular ones: - colony of bacteria,Tetra NitratMinus, Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls - these drugs for feeding beneficial bacteria and others.
3. A large number of plants in the aquarium. No one has yet scientifically proven that plants suppress algae, but the fact remains that in an aquarium with live aquarium plants (1/2, 2/3), there are no algae outbreaks, except that sometimes green dots appear, and then from strong lighting.
Therefore, if you have the opportunity to provide your plants with proper care: LIGHT, CO2, UDO- be sure to plant the beds!
4. There are useful fish that fight - they eat algae and algae plaque:
A) Siamese algae eaters- tireless workers of the aquarium, sometimes it seems that the only meaning of their life is an insatiable desire to kiss all the plants and all the stones, and walk through all the aquarium decorations. They can also be found under the abbreviation SAE, which stands for Siamese Algae Eater and is translated as Siamese algae eaters. There are also KAE and IAE - Chinese and Indian algae eaters. Effective against algae “black beard”, “thread” and “deer horns”, etc.
B) Otocinclus- no less effective fish. Thanks to the structure of its mouth, it carefully and efficiently removes algae from plants, decor and walls. Cope with green, brown (diatom) algae, etc.
B) Ancistrus- also useful. But, unlike the above-mentioned fish, adult ancistrus are lazy. And they say that in addition to algae, they also eat plants.
G) The whole family is also a good assistant in the fight against algae. poeciliaceae- guppies, swordtails, mollies, platies and others.
D) All possible mollusks- appularia, coils, physes, marises, etc.
E) Amana shrimp. Helps in the fight against thread.
Let us note that you can rely on the help of these fish, but not rely on them.
5. And finally, aquarium preparations that suppress algae will come to the rescue. Pet stores sell a lot of such preparations; as a rule, they contain the word “Algo” (algae) in their name, for example, .
These drugs must be used carefully, wisely and according to the instructions. We recommend Tetra products, since their preparations contain monolinuron, which has a milder, more gentle effect. When used correctly, taking into account all the prevailing circumstances in the aquarium, Tetra preparations do not have a negative effect on fish and plants. Read more.
Another and quite extensive group of algae preparations contains glutaraldehyde, a more powerful algaecide. It can be used in advanced cases or, for example, in dense herbals. In general, in practice it has been noticed that if the aquarium is just with fish, then it is better to use Tetra and monolinuron. And if we are talking about a herbalist - an aquarium with plants, then preparations based on glutaraldehyde behave well and are effective. There are a lot of such drugs, including domestic brands. Of all the variety, we can recommend the algae preparation from the Medos company VladOx - glutaraldehyde, at an adequate price! You can find out more about this drug. 
So, we have looked at the main causes of algae in the aquarium, and also examined the main methods of combating them. Finally, it should be noted that, as a rule, “algae trouble comes as a complex”, and therefore it is necessary to deal with it comprehensively, i.e. not just one method, but several at once, or even all at once.
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Algae in the aquarium - know the enemy by sight!
Types of aquarium algae with photos
As previously mentioned, there are a lot of varieties of algae. There are more than thirty thousand species! Below are the most common algae, the reasons for their appearance in the aquarium, and individual characteristics for solving problems with them.
But first, classification. Due to the abundance of algal mass, they were simply divided according to the color of the thallus (thallus) into:
- Diatoms - Diatomeae;
- Brown algae - Phaeophceae;
- Green algae - Chlorophceae;
- Yellow-green algae - Xantophceae;
- Red algae - Rhodophceae;
- Golden algae - Chrysophceae;
- Blue-green algae - Cynophceae;
They include the following “popular algal pests”:
Brown or diatoms
(brown coating on the walls, soil, stones of the aquarium)
photo of brown algae in an aquarium
These are the simplest and, so to speak, harmless algae. They are placed at the very top of the list, since they often appear in beginners - in young aquariums. The first reason for their appearance is the lack of lighting, the second is the lack of biobalance - adjusted - in young aquariums.
Once a young aquarium is set up or lighting is added, the diatoms will disappear on their own. They can be removed mechanically and with the help of snails.
Red algae or black algae
Vietnamese seaweed or deer antlers
photo of aquarium algae flip flops
This algae is probably written about on every website! And still the ranks of unlucky owners of this infection in their aquarium are growing and growing.
This algae is very tenacious and difficult to remove. Its appearance speaks primarily of a high content of dead organic matter in the aquarium, which it feeds on.
Control methods are common: we carefully remove everything, siphon the soil - remove organic matter. We put carbon and zeolite in the filter, do frequent water changes (up to 50% per week), and use algaecides and algae eaters.
Blackbeard algae
photo algae black beard
Many people confuse her with “Vietnamese”, because... it is similar and has the same reasons for its appearance. As a rule, it appears in “young aquariums”. The withdrawal methods are the same.
An aquarium in our apartment or office is a small corner of wildlife, an underwater world. It always pleases the owner's eye and attracts the views of guests.
Natural purity creates the illusion of a short-term immersion in the kingdom of Neptune. How can I make sure this feeling doesn’t go away? How to avoid water blooms and green deposits?
Every underwater lover in the room has had to deal with aquarium cleanliness issues at one time or another.
The most common problems.
- Cloudy water. The water loses its transparency and acquires a whitish tint. Most often this happens in a new aquarium that has just been stocked with fish. This phenomenon is temporary. The development of a mass of bacteria makes the water opaque. This continues for two to three days. With proper feeding of the fish and optimal temperature conditions, the next stage in the formation of the underwater world begins - the biological balance between single-celled organisms and more highly organized ones. The infusorial haze disappears.
- Rotting in the ground. After some time, the soil may become covered with a dark film and periodically release bubbles. Rotting occurs of organic residues that entered the soil initially or during the process of feeding the fish. To prevent this from happening, it is better to underfeed your pets than to overfeed them. An additional means of combating organic matter in the soil are snails.
- Change in water color to green or brown. This happens due to the development of algae in the water: green, blue-green or brown.
- Plaque formation on the walls. The plaque can also be green or brown.
These two problems are interrelated, often have common causes, and the means to eliminate them are also the same. Plaque on the walls is the biggest nuisance in the life of an aquarium.
Brown plaque is caused by the development of brown algae. The reason for its formation is the lack of light in the aquarium. As in any living body of water, in our closed underwater world there are all types of microorganisms, bacteria and algae.
An imbalance leads to rapid development of a particular organism. Brown plaque is eliminated by leveling the lighting to normal. Wash the walls, change a little water and add light - and you're done.
Brown algae problem solved. Most often this happens due to their replacement with green algae, as they are more highly organized.
The most famous from the school biology course is Euglena green. It is this algae that is the main cause of green water. The coating is formed by green algae of other species - filamentous edogonium and xenococus.
These are the most common green algae that grow on the walls of the aquarium and stones on the ground. Dealing with them is much more difficult, so we will consider all the ways.
- The main reason for the rapid development of green algae is excessive lighting. Avoid direct sunlight on the aquarium. The distance to the window must be at least 1.5 meters. Select artificial lighting lamps at a rate of 0.5 W/l for no more than 8 hours a day. With a higher pH in the aquarium, green algae also grow less rapidly.
- Regular cleaning of walls and partial water changes. Take care of your underwater world and you will avoid many problems. Cleaning the walls should be done with a soft sponge; cutting with a blade is a last resort. Scratches on the glass allow algae particles to remain and continue to multiply. Water changes should not be more than ¼ of the total volume.
- Biological cleaning method. This is the most desirable method. Many species of aquarium fish feed on algae. Almost all viviparous animals include guppies, swordtails, platies and mollies. Crucians, goldfish, veiltails, and telescopes also diversify their diet with greens. Experts say that the better aquarium plants grow, the less algae multiply. A variety of snails will be of great help in cleaning the walls and water. They eat the remains of the remaining food, some filter the water through themselves, thus feeding on unicellular algae. Ampularia love to chew algae off glass. But, as with everything, you need to observe moderation. Daphnia and cyclops can quickly clear the entire volume, but they themselves are tasty prey for fish.
- Salting the water. In this article we are looking at freshwater aquariums. Sea walls are not overgrown with green algae; they have their own problems. If acidifying the water is impossible due to the presence of certain types of fish, you can try adding salt to the water, no more than 1 g/l. Salt will retard the development of green algae in the water.
- Chemical method. Antibiotics are useful in the fight against bacteria and lower algae if the problem has gone too far and other methods do not help. You can treat the aquarium with Riboflavin, Tripaflavin, Rivanol (0.1 g per 100 l). But when these substances are used, snails and some aquarium plants with delicate green leaves suffer. Cabomba and hornwort will drop their leaves immediately after applying these medications. Streptomycin and Penicillin are less harsh. Plants and fish will not be harmed. The dose of Streptomycin used is 0.3 mg/l for 48 hours, then the water should be changed. The safest chemical for disinfecting an aquarium is 3% hydrogen peroxide. Concentration from 2 to 6 mg/l with enhanced aeration. No water change required.
The easiest way to achieve a clean aquarium is to organize it correctly from the very beginning.
In a properly organized aquarium, biological balance is established, and the water in it can not be changed for years.
Some tips on how to start setting up an aquarium.
- The larger the volume, the easier it is to establish a biocenosis in it. Aquariums of 10 liters or more are generally considered temporary - for depositing fish during sanitary work or during spawning. An ideal aquarium is an aquarium with a volume of at least 100 liters. Only in such a water space can life organize itself.
- The population of the aquarium with fish should be at the rate of 1 medium-sized fish per 5 liters of water, preferably a little more liquid. Planting should also be taken into account. Plants absorb waste products of fish and snails from the water, saturate the water with oxygen by processing carbon dioxide during the process of photosynthesis. But in the dark, plants themselves consume oxygen, and the process of photosynthesis stops at this time. Therefore, an overabundance of plants can play a cruel joke on an inexperienced aquarist, although this is rare. An excessive number of snails can turn from a squad of cleaners into a crowd of polluters; it is necessary to thin out their population in a timely manner.
- It is advisable to purchase fish, plants and snails in specialized stores or from experienced breeders. The risk of introducing infection from a natural body of water is too great. This also applies to the contamination of an aquarium with euglena in the summer, when it intensively reproduces in ponds and lakes.
- Feeding the fish should be very moderate. Dry food should be eaten within 10-15 minutes. Preference, of course, to fresh live food. For most aquarium fish, it is not particularly difficult to fast for 3-4 days. If you are going to be away from home, you should not add food for future use.
- Illumination. The aquarium should be installed so that it is not exposed to direct sunlight, but there is sufficient illumination. A distance of 1.5 m from the window will be ideal. It is better to organize solar lighting in the morning, and a lighting duration of 8-10 hours a day is sufficient. The lack of sunlight can be compensated by artificial lighting.
The established biological balance in the aquarium is characterized by the transparency of the water and the natural greenery of the plants. The color of proper water, if you take a glass from an aquarium, is yellowish. This is the so-called Fish condition water.
The water became alive, the biocenosis was established. After about a week of operation of the indoor underwater world, this should happen. If not, you need to analyze the errors, but there is no need to panic. Nature is wise, you just need to not disturb her.
Algae (algae) are the simplest plants and range in size from microscopic single-celled ones to 70-meter sea grass. A special feature of algae is their ability to adapt to different conditions and rapid reproduction. Many types of algae are capable, in the form of spores, of spreading from one body of water to another through the air. Algae can live in any water - fresh, salty, clean, dirty, stagnant and fast-flowing. They can grow on objects and plants, or they can float in the water column (green water) or on its surface.
Algae usually gives an aquarium an unsightly appearance (although it is found everywhere in nature) or serves as an indicator of poor water quality.
Below are the main types of algae in the aquarium. They are grouped according to distinctive features. No scientific names are given (there are too many of them, and they are not needed to successfully combat them).
Diatoms
Brown algae that covers the surfaces of stones, glass, etc. They usually appear in a new aquarium or when there is insufficient light. Their presence also indicates a high level of silicates in the aquarium, since their cells contain a lot of silicon. You can get rid of them quite easily by increasing the lighting level of the aquarium (this may cause other algae to appear). If this does not help, then the next step may be to use a filter that absorbs silicates. In a new aquarium they will disappear on their own within a few weeks. Group of catfish - Otocinclus will clean all surfaces in a few days.
Blue-green algae
These algae are, in fact, bacteria (they are now even classified as a separate category). They can be of different colors (usually dark). Their distinctive characteristics are that they are slippery to the touch and smell of an unpleasant smell of a rotting swamp. They are easily separated from the objects on which they grow. These algae can absorb nitrogen from the air. therefore, low nitrate levels are not a problem for them. They are usually characteristic of aquariums with high pH - alkaline water, although they can occur in other waters. If you do not fight them, they quickly cover all surfaces, leading to the death of plants and releasing toxins dangerous to fish. The presence of such algae is an indicator of poor water quality and the presence of a large amount of organic matter in it. Algae-eating fish ignore blue-green algae - they are too unappetizing in appearance and taste.
Fortunately, fighting them is not difficult. An antibiotic (2.5-5 mg/litr erythromycin or half the dose intended to treat the infection) will usually clear the tank overnight. This will create a large amount of rotting organic matter, and the antibiotic can affect bio-filtration, so be prepared to change the water in large quantities.
Green water
These algae occur in the presence of bright light and a sufficient amount of nutrients (nitrates and phosphates) in the water. This usually occurs in a newly started aquarium, when the biological filter is not working or when something has affected it, and in the presence of bright light. for example, if the aquarium is located on a window and is illuminated by the sun. These algae come in different types, including blue-green algae (bacteria).
Changing the water usually does not lead to an improvement in the situation, however, with regular changes of water and cleaning the soil, the situation improves. To quickly kill algae, you can turn off the lights for several days. In this case, it is necessary to blow air from the compressor, since the amount of carbon dioxide increases. After this, you need to change the water due to the large amount of rotting organic matter in the aquarium.
Another way is to introduce daphnia into the aquarium. They will clear algae from the water quickly enough. The fish must, of course, be removed from the aquarium.
Filtration through a diatom filter or use of a UV sterilizer (dose 30,000 µWSec/cm 2) will help solve the problem with this algae.
We must remember that, as in the situation with other algae, constant attention to the quality of water in the aquarium is necessary.
Black beard
This type of algae (although several species are understood under this name) is one of the most disliked by aquarists, since it is very difficult to control. At first, these algae cover the edges of slow-growing plants, like Anubias, or grow in small clumps. Then they cover all the plants in the aquarium, giving it an unsightly appearance. They pose no danger to fish.
It is almost impossible to remove these algae mechanically. In principle, you can fight them with darkening or chemicals, but then they will grow again. Some fish (siamese algae eater, for example) supposedly eat it, provided they are not fed anything else.
Below is a method for successfully controlling this algae.
Other types of algae (filamentous, etc.)
These algae come in many types (hair algae, thread algae, etc.). Hair algae, bright green, grows on tufts of soil, stones, etc. Easily removed mechanically or eaten by algae-eating fish. Thread algae, dark in color, grows in long individual threads. It is easily removed mechanically and usually serves as an indicator of excess iron in water (0.1-0.2 mg/l).
Algae growing in small islands on the glass is considered normal for a planted aquarium and can be easily controlled by scraping (be careful if you have a plexiglass aquarium) with a razor or a special scraper. This usually needs to be done on the front glass. Fish such as ancistrus etc. will help keep the glass clean.
The algae control method described below allows you to control this algae just like all other algae.
What chemical control agents exist and why are they bad?
There are several chemicals available to control algae. Most of them are adapted from fish farming, where it is necessary to deal with overgrowing of ponds. An example is simazine, produced under various brands for aquariums.
Unfortunately, these drugs act differently on different algae and are not always effective. In addition, these drugs also have a negative effect on plants, causing the death of some plants. Such as cabomba or wallinsneria, in the case of using simazine, which affects the process of photosynthesis.
The main disadvantage of these drugs is that they do not eliminate the causes of algae (excess nutrients for algae in the water) and, accordingly, they will appear again from spores. The use of these products may be recommended as a last resort in cases where it is necessary to quickly get rid of algae and then continue biological control, as described below.
Other methods include disinfecting plants in bleach. Some people use hydrogen peroxide to combat certain types of algae.
What is the method of fighting black beard based on?
This method is based on the fact that the growth of plants and algae in an aquarium is limited by available macro- (nitrates, phosphates, potassium) and micro-fertilizers (iron, etc.). Moreover, according to Liebig’s law (I think it’s his), plant growth is limited to one element, i.e. if there is a lack of iron in the aquarium, then there is an excess of nitrates, etc. will not cause plant growth, and at the same time, these excess substances will be available to algae.
If there are sufficient nutrients, light, and carbon dioxide, higher plants can outpace algae in the fight for nutrients (especially phosphorus), which leads to the death of algae.
Of the two macronutrients, the most important are nitrates and phosphates. If the aquarium has poor filtration and is not cleaned, then there is a lot of organic matter in the water that causes the growth of algae, such as blue-green algae. However, even with good bio-filtration, there is an excess of phosphates and nitrates in the aquarium. These substances are obtained as a result of the vital activity of fish (which produce ammonia and ammonium, which is converted into nitrates during bio-filtration) and from substances found in fish food.
Phosphates, even at low concentrations (0.5-1 mg/l), lead to algae growth. Therefore the most stable aquarium. if in it the growth of plants (and algae, respectively) is limited by phosphates. Plants are able to absorb even minute amounts of phosphates, depriving algae of them. As practice shows, if the aquarium is limited in nitrates, iron or potassium, then algae will inevitably appear in such a system, since the plants will not be able to absorb organic matter from the water.
This is the basis for the method of biological control of algae - by maintaining an optimal balance of fertilizers, light and CO 2.
The method of effective bio-filtration of an aquarium using plants is based on the same principles.
How to get rid of a black beard
First of all, it requires patience and hard work. If the aquarium is neglected, it may take several weeks, or even months, to bring it into balance. To paraphrase Lenin’s famous article on Marxism (those who studied this rubbish remember), we can say that there are three sources and three components of anti-black-beardism. Three sources - patience, work and a head on your shoulders (as in all aquarium matters). Three components - fertilizers, light, carbon dioxide. Light and carbon dioxide are considered separately. They are necessary conditions for successful algae control. It must be remembered that if one of the conditions is not met, for example, in the presence of light and fertilizers, but the absence of carbon dioxide, it will be very difficult or impossible to overcome algae.
The main idea is discussed above. In practice, this comes down to the following points (despite their apparent complexity, they are easy to implement in practice):
- Keep the aquarium clean, remove organic matter, nitrates, phosphates, etc., which are eaten by algae - change the water. At first, when the aquarium is neglected, a daily change of 10-25% of the water may be required. A weekly replacement of 10-25% is also necessary in the absence of algae. Limit the amount of food, it should be given as much as the fish can eat in 3-5 minutes; fish very rarely die of hunger (from overeating much more often). Clean the bottom of food residues and dirt. This can be done every time you change the water. Get fish that will pick up leftover food from the bottom. Think about it - it might make sense to reduce the number of fish in the aquarium to reduce the amount of dirt. Make sure that the water you pour into the aquarium does not contain nitrates or phosphates. Otherwise, there is little point in replacing the water. You can find out the water parameters by measuring them or by contacting a water supply station. If there are nitrates/phosphates in the water, then you need to think about filtering it through ion exchangers or using distilled water (with the addition of calcium salts, etc. to ensure its hardness). Changing the water is the most important condition for success.
- Use more light. Although light causes green algae to grow, sufficient light is necessary for plant growth. The green algae will then go away on its own. On average, it is necessary (depending on the type of plant and the amount of CO 2) 0.5-1 W/liter of fluorescent light. Light should be no more than 10-12 hours a day.
- Install a CO 2 system. There is absolutely no need to run out and buy a branded cylinder for a lot of money. A simple bottle of yeast is enough for successful plant growth.
- Add fast-growing plants. Anubias and cryptocorynes cannot defeat algae - this requires plants that suck nutrients from the water. Then they can be deleted. Trim such plants regularly - young shoots more actively absorb nutrients from the water. For long-stemmed plants. you can remove the lower part and plant the upper part in the ground.
- Feed the plants with fertilizers. Plants need them to grow successfully. use the ready-made mixture, making sure that it does not contain phosphates (your task is to limit their amount). The presence of nitrates in the mixture depends on their level in the aquarium. Usually they are not needed. Good commercial mixtures do not contain phosphates or nitrates. You cannot use fertilizers for ordinary plants - they contain a lot of phosphates/nitrates. The presence of potassium fertilizers is necessary - they are very important for plant growth and are usually in short supply in the aquarium. They can be added in excess (within reasonable limits) and do not lead to algae growth. Microelements are absolutely essential - especially iron, without which plants cannot grow. One way is to use a ready-made mixture. It is more convenient for beginners. You can also make the mixture yourself, which allows you to vary the elements, adapting to specific conditions - especially the level of nitrates, which should be about 5 mg/l. Zero nitrate levels cause plants to stop consuming phosphates and this leads to algae growth.
- Try to prevent nutrients from being washed out of the soil. Plants are able to absorb substances from the soil, and algae, which do not have roots, can only absorb substances from water. Therefore, do not use a bottom filter with strong currents (UGF, RUGF). Add fertilizer (clay balls) to the soil. Make optimal soil for plants.
- Get fish that eat algae, such as the Siamese algae eater, Ancistrus, etc. Let them do some of the work.
- Avoid introducing algae with new plants. They can be disinfected. Blackbeard is not spread by airborne spores. In any case, fish must be kept in quarantine. At the same time, it is necessary to change the water, allowing them to empty their stomachs, where there could be algae spores. Equipment - such as nets, etc. must be disinfected to avoid introducing algae (and other infections) from one aquarium to another.
By following these rules, it is quite possible to control algae in your aquarium and keep an aquarium full of plants and without a trace of algae.
In the case of black beard, it will usually start to turn white and then fall off after a few weeks, being replaced by green algae. They will then disappear too.
What should the nitrate level be?
As mentioned above, the aquarium should not have zero nitrate levels. In such a case, they may turn out to be a limiting factor in plant growth and the absorption of mim phosphates will stop. This situation can occur in a heavily overgrown aquarium (especially with fast-growing plants), with an insufficient number of fish. Of course, zero nitrate levels do not mean that plants do not receive them. It simply indicates that plants are taking up nitrates (and ammonia/ammonium/nitrites without waiting for them to be converted to nitrates by bio-filtration) at the same rate or faster than they are produced in the system. As practice shows, a low level of nitrates (about 2-5 mg/l) is desirable in an aquarium. to have confidence. that phosphates are a limiting factor in plant (and algae) growth. Usually, with a zero nitrate level, after a few days the level of phosphates in the water begins to increase. When nitrates are added, it drops to zero again. If phosphates are at zero levels in the aquarium, then the presence of nitrates will not cause algae growth.
Nitrate levels should be checked if suspected. that they are missing. A sign of a lack of nitrates is the yellowing and death of old leaves - they seem to dissolve in water (due to the migration of nitrogen compounds to young leaves). In such a case, nitrates should be added - preferably KNO3.
How to disinfect purchased plants
Along with quarantining new fish, disinfecting plants is a good practice. This can be done using bleach (sodium hypochloride, bleach), a liquid used to clean bathtubs and toilets. A 5% bleach solution is diluted in a ratio of 1:20 with water and immerse the plants for a couple of minutes. Then they must be thoroughly rinsed with running water. Some plants (especially long-stemmed ones with soft leaves - elodea, cabomba) do not tolerate this procedure well - so the time must be reduced (or not applied). This procedure does not destroy some types of algae (for example, blue-green ones - but they are noticeable immediately when purchasing the plant). Black beard is destroyed by such a bath. This procedure can be used periobically - for example, to remove black beard from an Anubias, which is usually its first victim. Anubias carries out the procedure without problems.
You can also use potassium permanganate and hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach.
Fish eating algae
To control algae in an aquarium, you can (and even should) keep fish that include algae in their menu. These fish include:
Soma
Various catfish, especially Ancistrus. They can be easily identified by the presence of bushes in front of the males’ heads. They will gladly polish the glass and objects in the aquarium to remove algae, especially when they are hungry.
Photo: Otocinclus affinis/Otto-cat
Ottozinc shown in the picture. This small catfish (there are several varieties) resembles a bulldozer, scraping leaves and glass 24 hours a day. It is best to keep several catfish in an aquarium. Unlike other fish, I have never seen them eat anything other than scraped from plants. I didn’t see much benefit from them, since they don’t want to eat hard algae. But there is no harm from them and a flock of such catfish looks quite funny.
Mollies
Mollies, when hungry, will clean the aquarium. The idea is not to feed them at all, otherwise they won't want to eat the algae.
Photo: Siamese algae eater/Crossocheilus Siamese/Siamese algae eater (SAE)
Siamese algae eater eats black beard. This fish is shown in the picture. Unfortunately, several fish are often sold under this name.
In the Siamese algae eater, the black stripe GOES TO THE VERY END OF THE TAIL and has zigzag jagged edges, the belly is light and the back is brown, each scale has black edges. The fins are transparent. The fish has a poorly developed swim bladder, so it is in motion. She rests on the bottom or on the leaves in a position with her head raised, resting on her fins. The fish often chase each other, but they are not aggressive. When the fish is frightened, the stripe takes on a gray tint. The fish has a pair of small antennae.
Photo: Chinese algae eater/Gyrinocheilus aymonieri/Chinese algae eater
The main external difference between this fish and the Siamese algae eater is the absence of a black stripe, the presence of brown or dark spots on the sides and a large sucker mouth. This fish is usually found near the bottom. The fish eats algae (it is noted that it eats green ones, but not blackbeard) when young. Adults prefer live and artificial food and are extremely aggressive towards other fish, often clinging to large and slow-swimming fish.
The main problem with fish that eat algae is that they quickly learn that the food falling from above is much more tasty than the tough algae you try to feed them. From this moment on, the beneficial qualities of the algae eater sharply decline.
Video
Fighting algae (Part 1)
Hydrogen peroxide in the fight against algae.
Fighting blue-green algae in the aquarium. Negativity about Dennerle
Fighting algae in the aquarium
Aquarium 120 liters. 2 months after launch. Algae control
The fight against algae in an aquarium is a burning issue for breeders. Before suggesting ways to solve it, you should understand the terminology. It can be difficult for beginners to determine which elements of the underwater world belong to this group.
Algae: features of the ecological group
These are lower plants. They look quite unpleasant: they look like deposits on the ground, stones or on the glass walls of an aquarium. May resemble fringe or tufts of thin threads.
We plant the aquarium with decorative elements that belong to the species of ferns, flowers or mosses. Algae appears if there is little vegetation in an artificial reservoir or it is not cared for. By the way, you should not believe the popular statement that fertilizers cause the growth of lower plants.
Should this subspecies be removed from the aquarium? Sometimes experienced breeders advise not to remove the entire colony, but to leave a small flog on the back wall. The remaining elements will become food for the fish and will take part in the absorption of nitrates and other decay products. However, if the appearance and cleanliness of the glass is fundamentally important to you, then you need to clean everything. Methods of combating each type of lower plants have their own differences.
Methods for controlling blue-green algae
This type is essentially a colony of cyanobacteria. The shape of the bacteria is similar to slimy spots of brown or green color. Their appearance is accompanied by an unpleasant odor and means that the biobalance of the aquarium ecosystem is disturbed. The reasons for the appearance of such growth are:
increased water temperature;
uncleaned soil;
decaying organic matter at the bottom;
too bright lighting;
irregular water changes.
How to deal with blue-green algae? The easiest way is to clear the container of everything for a few days (remove the fish, remove the soil, plants and decorations). After this, the tank should be covered with a thick dark cloth and the aeration should be turned on at full power. During this time, the filter is removed from the water. Usually three to four days are enough for cleaning.
In some cases, such actions may not be enough, because the smallest surviving particle can grow into a new full-fledged colony. In this case, it is recommended to take the following actions:
disinfect all inorganic matter - driftwood, figurines, locks and other decorations. It is advisable to boil them;
put the plants in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly under running water;
thoroughly clean the soil with a siphon;
carry out a water change in the entire aquarium;
a gentler method is to change approximately 40% of the water for 4 days, adding hydrogen peroxide to the water (25 ml of peroxide for every 100 liters of water).
How to defeat brown diatom colonies?
This is the most harmless subspecies, which is easy to fight. However, if you do not pay enough attention to combating it, brown algae will cover most of the aquarium with an unsightly brown coating. 
Diatoms are single-celled organisms that can take part in photosynthesis. They can get into the container in several ways, mainly on objects (for example, decorations), plants, or with water from another aquarium.
To remove them, you need:
remove mechanically - wipe the surface of the aquarium with a cotton rag, and rinse the plants under water;
reduce the amount of light entering the tank;
Features of black lower plants
This type of algae is called "blackbeard". It is a plexus of black-green threads approximately 5 cm long, which are attached to any surface - plants, stones or driftwood. “Blackbeard” does not harm the fish at all, but plants suffer greatly from them.
This subtype appears when:
adding new non-disinfected elements to the aquarium;
improper care of the tank (most often due to insufficient and irregular water changes);
improper lighting (both too weak and too strong);
rotting food leftovers in water.
You need to fight black algae as follows. Firstly, it is necessary to perform a daily 15-25% water change. Secondly, do not give the fish too much food, and after each feeding, clean the water and soil from food debris. Some types of fish cope well with the “black beard” - greenocheilus and catfish (ancistrus).
Filamentous algae: methods of control
Threads look like untidy clusters of threads of different lengths. Such algae can form tufts that attach to decorations and higher plants in the tank, and sometimes even to equipment. The bunches can be green, gray or brown, and occasionally have a red tint. A small amount of filament in the aquarium is normal, but if there are too many such accumulations, then this indicates problems.
Filamentous elements in large quantities are harmful to fish. Mainly due to the fact that, when they die, they release toxins into the water during the decomposition process. Reasons for the appearance of threads:
too bright lighting (both artificial and solar);
insufficient oxygen content (possibly due to a small number of plants);
irregular water changes;
poor cleaning of the reservoir.
To prevent the appearance of a large number of filamentous tufts, you need to limit the amount of light in the aquarium and install high-quality water filters. You should also gradually replace all the water in the tank. Algae that is already present can be easily cleaned off using a toothbrush. Another effective method is to introduce fish into the tank that love filament (mollies, ancistrus, Siamese algae eaters or loricaria).
If you have algae in your aquarium and you don’t know what to do with it, contact the Aqua-Store company. We will help you get rid of any unwanted elements and restore balance to the ecosystem of the reservoir.
Good day, dear subscribers and readers. Today's post will be published at the request of one of the readers who left a comment on the article. Ivan, as I promised, I have prepared a post for you on how to deal with green algae that appears on the walls of aquas. But before moving directly to the problem itself, you need to go into a short excursion about algae, and then I will tell you how to deal with unwanted guests.
In general, algae get into our aquariums in various ways, and in particular with plants from the store on which their spores were located, and stones. If the conditions in the aquarium are favorable for the development of these pests, then they will successfully begin to bloom and smell. If no measures are taken, then the entire aesthetic appearance of the aquarium, even the most beautiful one, will be spoiled by unwanted organisms. To avoid this, it is necessary to carry out a number of operations to care for the aquarium, namely: regularly change the water, monitor the light intensity and daylight hours, and filter the aquarium water.
Algae are especially dangerous in newly launched aquatics, since the higher ones have still established a normal metabolism, and therefore, in the first weeks after the launch of the aquarium, a battle takes place between the higher plants and the lower ones. The ideal option is when higher plants clog the algae and take away all their nutrients, without which the latter’s existence is unthinkable. In the first weeks after, do not rush to let fish into the underwater garden; it is better to plant more fast-growing plants such as cabomba, pinnate, hygrophila, and so on. As soon as you see that these plants are growing quickly, they are gradually replaced with others that grow slowly.
Well, now some useful recommendations for combating green algae on the walls of your jar:
— as practice has shown, all types of algae do not tolerate being disturbed. If the walls of the aquarium become overgrown very quickly, then take a scraper in your hands and clean them off the walls of your aqua every day;
- try to block the algae from accessing nutrients, that is, organic matter. There is an option to reduce the length of daylight hours + daily water changes in a volume of ¼ of the total. If you perform these operations within a week or two, the result will not take long;
- control the population of the aquarium, do not allow overpopulation. Fish, like all normal living organisms, excuse the expression, also turn gray. This in turn will feed the algae. Siphon regularly;
- do not allow the fish to be overfed and that after feeding, the remains of uneaten food settle to the bottom of the aquarium and fall between the soil fractions. This is also additional organic matter, which again feeds algae;
- aquarium fish have proven themselves very well, such as: otocinclus, mollies, guppies, labeo, Siamese algae eater. You can also buy a dozen in addition. It is only desirable that they be young, otherwise they will then begin to wear away plants with delicate leaves;
- try to support in your bank. Do not allow sudden jumps in nitrates, phosphates, sharp changes in hardness or acidity. If possible, buy the necessary tests. They are inexpensive in online stores. I wrote about the nitrate cycle in an aquarium in an article;
- stimulate the growth of higher plants by regularly fertilizing with fertilizers and, if finances allow, buy a CO2 unit. If this is expensive for you, you can use another option with a plastic bottle and yeast. Someday I will write a post about a homemade CO2 installation.
In general, if the fouling is insignificant, then you should not sound the alarm and look for information on the Internet on how to get rid of the scourge. It is considered quite normal that with regular water changes you need to clean the glass with a scraper. From replacement to replacement, if there is a slight coating of green algae on the glass, then this is considered normal. This indicates that the aquarium environment is fairly clean and that you are maintaining yours correctly.
Well, that’s basically all the main methods of fighting algae; there is, of course, an option using copper sulfate, but I haven’t tried this method, so I won’t recommend it to you. You can also buy branded imported drugs to combat algae, but I believe they will only give a temporary effect. The main thing is biological balance. If this happens, then there shouldn’t be any problems.
This is where I end the post, I hope it was useful for you and I answered the question posed. I look forward to new comments on the article :) See you soon!
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