You should have seen the faces of my friends when they heard that I was going to Cape Verde. At first, everyone was so clever,aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaones ability... And then suddenly they asked: “Where is this?”
Two words about Cape Verde...
The Republic of Cape Verde (RCV) is an island state, which in the Soviet Union was romantically called the “Cape Verde Islands”! Cape Verde lies in the Atlantic Ocean off the west coast of Africa, 600 km from Senegal and has 10 large and 8 small islands.
The Portuguese discovered Cape Verde, of course, proclaimed them their colony, and used the islands as a pass on the route of transporting slaves. And only in 1975 the RKV gained independence. The official language on the island continues to be Portuguese, but the islanders also speak many dialects, one of them - Kriulu - is a creative processing of the Portuguese language with the introduction of the African language Swahili. Cape Verde is inhabited by Creoles (descendants from marriages of Africans and Europeans) and I must say, these descendants are very beautiful.
Cape Verde - where I feel comfortable.
When you travel all over the Earth in search of new kite spots, you suddenly discover that you seem to be collecting those countries in which you feel mentally comfortable. For me it's trashy Dahab in Egypt; the slightly phlegmatic Cabanas de Tavira in Portugal; surfer-filled Kuta in Bali... and now here comes Cape Verde. And not everywhere I’ve been has been so comfortable! For example, I liked Prasonisi in Rhodes for windsurfing, but the town itself is terribly boring, it would be better if the windsurf spot was located in Lindos, there is great energy there, and I want to stay there. Or Vietnam, many people go there to live, but I never want to stay there for a long time. Or Hurghada - if it weren’t for my kite addiction, I would only go to Dahab! Personally, I never want to return to the wrong places, I put a cross on them for myself - passed!
Cape Verde, Sal - the island became for me something between Dahab and Tavira. Just like in Dahab, there is such trash here that appeals to me. Stunningly beautiful ocean, the best I've ever seen in my life. The people here have dark skin, but they are very beautiful and friendly. This is probably why you feel calm and good here.
Blue, blue ocean, wind every day, and no stress. No one is ever in a hurry, everyone is relaxed. You yourself fall into this state and don’t notice how the days and hours pass.
And Santa Maria is full of Italians. Italians come here as tourists, and then many stay here, opening bars, restaurants, and hotels. This has its advantages - for example, Italian ice cream is very tasty!
You have to come to Cape Verde in winter, in Russia and Europe it’s cold, here it’s hot. Combined with the sea breeze and crystal clear ocean, this heat is very pleasant! Even at night the temperature on the island is +20!
On the first day, I walked through all the kite spots within walking distance, but somehow I didn’t find any kiters. On the second day, there was a strong beach break at the spot near the Santa Maria beach, and in the afternoon the wind blew so hard that experienced kiters began to lay out 7s and 9s, but I had just switched from windsurf to kite, so I was afraid get out in such conditions!
And my level is not so hot, and there are few kiters on the Santa Maria beach and they are all dispersed, if suddenly something happens, who will save me? I looked, thought and went to the kite school from Mistral. There I found out that when there is a strong swell like today in Santa Maria, experienced kiters go to kite beach on the other side of the island. There is pure onshore and no beachbreaking.
On the third day the swell went away, the water became almost flat, I ran to the beach, and there were kites, kites, kites! It turned out that kiters here are not fools, if the wind is less than 9, no one goes out to ride, it’s still windy - every day! And on the third day I started skiing under the supervision of Mistral instructors. I was provided with a vest, a helmet and a leash. Everything is as it should be with IKO people! :). Leash is a very valuable thing at the learning stage, especially if the ocean is choppy and deep, it really is a salvation! Later, without the leash, I kept losing the board and then finding it with great difficulty!
Kiting on the beach in Santa Maria reminded me of riding at the Tavira spot in Portugal: the same light beach break, noticeable only when you enter, but then everything is smooth and calm!
After Egypt it turned out to be terribly unusual that it was blowing every day. 24 hours a day. 7 days a week!
In the first days, it was scary to ride on your own. If the wind blows towards the end of the lagoon (the wave spot Ponta Sino already begins there), then you find yourself in hard surf! At first it was unrealistic for me to pass it with a board and kite! And going back along the beach in a strong wind is even more unrealistic. Moreover, without a leash, it was very difficult to find your board in the chop! Well, the most important thing. At school they gave me a 7-meter school kite for kite lesson. After it, my 9 often seemed huge and extreme for such a strong wind.
Progress of the second skiing day - I made three beautiful upwind tacks in a row with a turn without stopping. But the rest of my skating is fishing, that is, pulling the board by the leash and dancing with the kite, since the 7-meter dome does not want to stand stably at the zenith, but moves from side to side, like a pendulum. As a result of fishing and dancing, you constantly lose height. Fell once and hello, the other end of the lagoon!
But then I got into it and started going alone to the Kite beach spot, where pros and just advanced riders kite. According to the conditions, this kite spot is an easy wave. The wind blows onto the shore, the beach stretches for several kilometers, closer to the shore there are either no waves, or very small ones, further from the shore there are larger waves, but no more than 1.5 meters and they - these waves - are gentle!
Local kiters in Cape Verde have a very high level of skiing, not like our Anapa guys. After Egypt and Vietnam, it was unusual to see that so many pros, instructors and surf station owners are local! Here is a list of cool kiters and windsurfers from Cape Verde.
In addition to Josh Angulo, there is also:
Mitu Monteiro:
Titik Edir Lopez:
Airton Cozzolino Lopès. The guy is 14 years old, but he is already a real kite star!
Cape Verde is a kite paradise.
Three main kite spots:
1) Santa Maria bay, Ponta Sino, Ponta Leme
This is the main beach of the city of Santa Maria, about 5 kilometers long. At the eastern end of the beach there is the Ponta Lemje spot, at the western end the Ponta Sino spot begins. Often Santa Maria, Ponta Leme and Ponta Sino are considered different spots, but they are all within walking distance of each other.
There are few kiters on Santa Maria Beach, kite schools hold classes here, and there are few students on the water, so there is always room for free riding. The beach itself is very wide, so it is convenient to lay out the kites and launch. The entire ski area is divided into windsurfer and kite spots: windsurfers ride on the right hand side of the pier and further, opposite the Mistral and Surfzone stations, kiters ride after them and all the way to Ponta Sino. Almost all kite stations in Cape Verde are also located on Santa Maria Beach.
On Santa Maria the depth immediately begins and there is a beach break along the entire coast. In general, the surf is easy to overcome, the main thing is not to hesitate. After the surf comes smooth water, then chop and wind waves.
The spot is quite suitable for training, the only drawback is that it is deep and surfy, but there is nothing else to choose from here!
Surf stations on the beach in Santa Maria
1) Mistral mistral.com(taught on North kites) opposite the Belorizonte hotel
2) Surfzone surfcaboverde.com(they teach on Ozon equipment, but they save on kites, they specially inflate the cylinders to the middle, I was shocked:) the station is located opposite the Morabeza hotel
3) Tribal surf tribalsurf.it(North kites, Crioula Hotel), this is where all the cool local kitesurfers hang out!
4) Angulo office (naish kites, there is only a school, no rentals, located on the territory of the Djadsal hotel), an excellent kiter and a good instructor Titik work at this station.
5) F-one (located directly opposite the Ponta Sino spot)
There are two more stations (windsurf) in Ponta Leme - Josh Angulo station ( angulocaboverde.com) and Surfaction ( surf-action.com)
2) Ponta preta:
The spot is located in the southwest of Cape Verde, opposite the Riu Funana Hotel. Ponta Preta is considered the best wave spot. But I can assure you that if there is no swell, then here is the ideal flat spot! The water is like a mirror, since the wind here always blows offshore. You can get to the spot either by walking along the shore from Santa Maria beach (walk for about 20 minutes), or by taxi (go to the hotel and then go to the beach through the hotel building) for 2-3 euros. There is only one surf station on the beach - a subdivision of the Surfzone ( surfcaboverde.com), they also teach.
This video will show you what wave kiting is on Ponta Preta:
3) Kite beach:
This gorgeous kite spot is located in the southeast of the island. It is the most popular among kitesurfers. Kite Beach is a huge beach where there is no one else except kiters. The wind direction is onshore, the wind is even and always stronger than in Santa Maria. This is more of a wave spot, the waves in different parts of the beach are different, but the wave is not difficult, although some skill is needed, the waves are from half a meter to one and a half to two. The downside is that there are a lot of kiters here, you need to be able to ride in traffic, sometimes schools bring students who are not yet very stable skaters and they create problems in traffic.
There is no infrastructure at the spot. There is only a booth that sells water and soda. But there are always locals at the spot - pros and instructors. If you need a lesson, you can find out about it in the booth. However, at this spot students are never taught from scratch.
You can only get to the spot by car, or by rental car, or by taxi for 7 euros! You need to negotiate with a taxi about transfers to both ends, you can’t just leave the island!
Wind.
The main driving time is winter, it blows constantly. The season is from December to April, but the best time is February. In summer there may be no wind for weeks and kite schools are closed for the summer.
The wind is blowing strong, most of the kiters ride 9 and 7 kites, I hardly saw any people on 11 and 12 kites.
Weather.
The air temperature in winter is warm +28+30, in the sun it gets even hotter. When the wind blows strong, it’s even cool near the water. The water in the ocean is not hot, but cool and pleasant. It’s better to ride in a wetsuit; a short and thin one is enough.
Cape Verde for windsurfing...
For windsurfers, Cape Verde is a paradise; all stations have rentals with excellent equipment and even lifeguards! In terms of windsurf spots in Cape Verde, windsurfers go to Santa Maria Beach, while more advanced riders go to Ponta Preta, Ponta Sino and Ali Baba.
Cape Verde. Surfing
There is also surfing in Cape Verde, but you need to check the swell forecast. The training spot is located on Santa Maria beach, to the left of the pier. In addition to the island of Sal, there is also a gurney on the island of Boavista.
Cape Verde. Accommodation and other logistics.
On the island of Sala, prices are not as affordable as in Egypt; the cost of living here is comparable to the south of Portugal.
Air ticket.
TAP. flytap.com – flights from Moscow via Lisbon. A ticket costs about 40,000 rubles in both directions
TUIFly. tuifly.com – Tickets from Frankfurt to Cape Verde and back cost 400-500 euros.
The plane arrives at Sal Island Airport (airport code SID)
Accommodation.
There are many hotels on the island, from five-star all-inclusive club hotels to private guesthouses:
- a double room in an expensive hotel right on the ocean costs 80-100 euros
- private guest houses in the area 3-5 minutes walk cost from 25 to 50 euros per room.
I lived in the most budget guesthouse Pensao Porta Do Vento ( portadovento.com), for a single with breakfast it turned out to be 28 euros. It’s just that it was very far from the beach, but since I went for a ride at Kite Beach, I didn’t really suffer from it.
- the most budget accommodation option would be to find an apartment or aparthotel. It's especially cheap if you book in advance. And if you start searching seriously, you can find an apartment (bedroom + living room + kitchen) for 250-300 euros for two weeks or even a month. But you need to search directly, and not through agencies.
In Santa Maria there are restaurants with European cuisine and cheaper eateries.
Here are some examples of food prices in euros:
- Local eateries: Salad - 2.5, main course - 5
- European restaurants: salad - 5, main course - 10-15, sandwich - 3-5
- Cola, beer in the bar and on the beach 1.5-2; cocktails - 6
Among the local restaurants I can recommend: Criolo, Cultural cafe, Snack bar near Padaria Dado (tasty and cheap! Try the tuna steak)
- Tourist restaurants: Leonardo (excellent, gourmet cuisine, but not cheap, I recommend half-cooked wahoo fish steak), Pastis (restaurant with a soulful atmosphere, where I dined most often!), Americos, Meditirenean, Aquarium (delicious fish and meat here , not so hot, it’s convenient that the aquarium is located on the beach), Beach Club (on the beach in front of the morabeza hotel, it’s very nice to drink caperinha here while watching the sunset), Atlantis (not far from the Mistral kite station)
There are also many bars and cafes on the Santa Maria beach where you can while away the evening.
Bar Calema – all kinds of surfers hang out here, local and European, everyone gathers around 11-12 pm. The most important disco is Pirata, gathering by 2 am.
There are also excellent bars: Blue bar, Chill out cafe, Tam tam, Habela bar on the roof.
Getting around the island:
I mainly traveled by taxi, between cities by minibuses (Aluger), renting a car on the island of Sal is not cheaper, but even more expensive! Taxis here are very cheap - to the airport 10-12, around the city - only 2 euros, aluguer around the city - 1 euro, taxi to Kite Beach - 7 euros, to Porta Prete - 3.
A tour of the island for several hours by taxi will cost 50 euros. Renting a car is only beneficial for a group; the cost of renting a car is 50-70 euros per day. Unfortunately, they don’t rent bikes, there are only ATVs for 25 euros for half a day.
Money:
On the island of Sal you can pay in euros everywhere; if you need to withdraw local currency from an ATM, there are a lot of ATMs in Santa Maria. The maximum withdrawal amount is 200 euros. I recommend bringing the bulk of your budget with you in euros. Payment is only in cash, cards are not accepted! You need to withdraw money from ATMs on weekdays - no one tops them up on weekends.
Mobile communications and Internet:
It is worth buying a local SIM card (I recommend the operator CV Movel with GPRS Internet). Prices: SMS within Cape Verde 0.17, international SMS - 0.46, domestic calls - 0.17, international - 0.56. GPRS 0.03 per 100kb. Payment is made through the purchase of cards.
To have the Internet through your phone, after purchasing a CV Movel SIM card, you need to connect GRPS at the post office.
In some places in Santa Maria there is coverage of the local wifi network Cabocom Livre (cabocom.cv), the payment card is sold in various places (at the Tam-Tam cafe or Josh Angulo's windsurf center).
The Internet on the island is not particularly popular, and all wifi networks are paid.
Cape Verde. Traveling around the islands.
If you are tired of sitting on the very touristy island of Sal, visit the islands:
Boavista - it is located near Sal, there are good kite and surf spots and picturesque beaches. They say that Boavista is one huge and beautiful beach. You can get to Boavista from Sal Island by rocket or by local airlines.
Santiago is where the capital of Cape Verde is located, but it will be interesting to fly here for those who prefer the metropolis to beautiful nature.
San Vicente is the cultural center of Cape Verde, where the legendary Cesaria Evora was born and raised. There are also surf spots here.
Sao Antau - from Sao Vicente you can take a ferry for one and a half to two days to the island of Sao Antau - the most picturesque island of Cape Verde, surrounded by greenery. By the way, Cape Verdean grog and coffee were born here!
Fogo is a unique island, an island of an active volcano of stunning beauty. You need two days to visit it; that’s how long it will take you to trek to the volcano, descend to the village next to the volcano and spend the night.
The Republic of Cape Verde is located in the Cape Verde archipelago, approximately 500 km west of Dakar. It consists of 18 islands. The highest point is the Fogo volcano, its height is 2829 meters. The length of the coastline is 965 kilometers. The total area of the state is 4033 square kilometers.
Capital
Praia is the capital of Cape Verde, the most populous city in the country, its economic and cultural center. On its territory there is a main port through which all exports to neighboring countries pass. However, Praia is also the largest resort with great recreational opportunities.
Population
The country is home to several ethnic groups. The majority are mulattoes, about 28% of the total population are Africans, 1% are Europeans.
Language
Portuguese is considered the official language; Creole and West African are also in great demand. In big cities and resorts, some hotel employees and employees of public places, in particular banks, speak English at an intermediate level.
Religion
About 90% of the population are Catholics, approximately 3% are Protestants, the rest of the population professes traditional ancient African beliefs.
Regions and resorts
Mostly people come here on vacation, for sea adventures. However, some cities and resorts offer interesting excursion opportunities.
Santiago is the largest island, famous for its natural landscapes and mild climate.
Sal is another popular island where all tourist routes begin. The main feature of the place is the international airport and windsurfing center located in the town of Santa Maria. Thanks to its equipment and professional approach, the center is one of the 5 best places in the world.
Sao Vicente - the largest city of Mindelo is located on this island. People come here for excursions to the preserved colonial buildings, and of course for the nightlife.
Santo Antan is the greenest corner of the entire archipelago. Here you can book numerous excursions to natural places. Hiking, beach holidays and hang gliding mainly thrive here.
Boavista is an island of beaches and dunes. Walking around the area, you can enjoy the true beauty of the desert, oases, and have a great time on the beaches.
Sao Nicolau is a small island, it is famous for the presence of the famous rock on which ancient writings have been preserved.
Santa Lucia - the length of the island is 13 kilometers, with a width of 5 kilometers, today it is the only uninhabited island in the entire archipelago. People come here for a secluded holiday, as well as for diving.
Difference in time
Kaliningrad: — 3 hours
Moscow: — 4 hours
Samara: — 5 hours
Ekaterinburg: — 6 hours
Omsk: — 7 hours
Krasnoyarsk: — 8 hours
Irkutsk: — 9 hours
Yakutsk: — 10 hours
Vladivostok: - 11 o'clock
Magadan: — 12 hours
Kamchatka: — 13 hours
Climate
The country has a tropical climate. The best time for a holiday is between June and October. At this time of year, the air temperature reaches an average of + 32 degrees, with water levels of + 26 degrees.
Visa and customs
To stay in the country of Cape Verbe, citizens of the Russian Federation require a visa. You can obtain it by contacting the country's consulate, which is located in Moscow. To do this, you will need to collect the necessary package of documents. It consists of a valid passport, a completed application form, and color photographs. In addition, you will be asked to present a hotel reservation or an invitation from relatives or friends, as well as round-trip tickets.
A tourist visa is issued for a period of six months. Documents are checked within 3 working days.
There is a second option, in which case you will receive a visa upon arrival at the airport. To do this, you need to collect the necessary package of documents, as for a regular visa, and obtain special permission from the consulate.
Customs
You can import and export currency in unlimited quantities without declaration. It is allowed to import 400 cigarettes and 2 liters of alcoholic beverages without paying duty. In addition, the import and export of food and general consumption goods for personal use is allowed. The list of prohibited items is standard; it is not allowed to transport narcotic drugs, weapons, psychotropic drugs, etc.
How to get there
There are no direct flights from Russia to Cape Verde. The best option is a flight from Moscow to Lisbon. From there you will need to change trains all the way to Sal. In addition, convenient connecting flights are offered by airlines that fly through Madrid, Paris, and Frankfurt. The approximate flight time excluding transfers is 9 hours.
Excursions
Praia Island
Sao Vicente Island
Espargos
Boavista Island
Sal Island
During the excursion you will be able to visit interesting architectural places, as well as a large number of natural sites.
Transport
A cheap and popular form of public transport is the minibus. It does not have a clear schedule; it departs only after it is completely filled with passengers.
Taxi
If desired, you can use a taxi service. The price should be agreed upon in advance. A taxi can be ordered for one trip or for the whole day.
Intercity transport
Local airlines fly between the two large islands of Sal and Santiago. You can get to other resorts by ferry or boat.
Car rental in Cape Verde
Tourists are allowed to rent a car; to do this, they need to have an international driver's license, a new Russian license, and a credit card. In this case, the driver must be over 21 years old and have at least 1 year of driving experience.
Connection
The main cellular operator is Cabo Verde Telecom. It operates on the basis of the GSM 900 standard. Russian subscribers of MTS and Megafon can use Thuraya satellite communications.
You can buy a SIM card at any office or at the airport.
Internet
Things are bad with the Internet; Russian operators do not have GPRS roaming. Network access only works in large hotels, hotels, and business centers.
Money
The official currency is the Cape Verdean escudo. Currency exchange offices operate at the airport and in hotels. However, banks offer more favorable exchange conditions. They are open Monday to Friday from 9:00 to 17:00, some of them are open on Saturdays until 12:00. You should not change the entire amount, since a reverse exchange service is not provided here.
Only large hotels, restaurants and shops accept credit cards.
How much money to take with you
Each tourist decides how much money to take with him independently, based on his habits and preferences. We offer a price table for the most popular expense items, based on 2017 data.
How to avoid problems
Cape Verde is a relatively safe country; all tourist regions enjoy a calm environment. However, there are several rules that should be followed to avoid disturbing your peaceful rest.
Do not drink tap water; it is advisable to buy water in plastic bottles. In addition, do not use ice, as it may also contain pathogens.
Use dairy products with caution.
Rinse fruits and vegetables with boiled water.
Big cities
Praia is the capital of Cape Verde
Mindelo is the second largest city in the country.
Shopping
After an exciting holiday in Cape Verde, you can buy interesting souvenirs for family and friends. Various products of local craftsmen are very popular. These include clay figurines, straw baskets, and ceramic products.
Kitchen
The national cuisine of Cape Verde is simple, there are no frills or delicacies in it, but this is precisely the highlight. Here you can taste simple but delicious dishes. Seafood is very popular. In restaurants you can order lobster, tuna, sawfish, sea bass, or taste barnacles and octopus. The national food is “cachupa”; in addition, the inhabitants of each island prepare it in their own way.
Entertainment and attractions
Fogo is the most popular island of the archipelago
Sal is the sunniest island. Thanks to the amazing climate, you can relax here throughout the year.
Palmeira is one of the interesting ports of the island of Sal. On its territory there are many underwater caves and reefs, so this place is valued among diving enthusiasts.
Verde Santa Maria is a resort town located on the island of Sal.
Praia is the capital of the state, here you can visit interesting architectural complexes from the colonial period.
Sal Rei - invites tourists to plunge into the atmosphere of African exoticism.
Mindelo - best beaches and luxurious nightlife.
Holidays and Events
February - Ash Wednesday (first day of Lent for Catholics)
March-April – Good Friday
The Republic of Cape Verde was formerly known as Cape Verde.
general information
Sal is considered the most ancient island of the archipelago. According to scientists, it is of volcanic origin and formed approximately 50 million years ago. In the Middle Ages, the Moors came to the island for salt, and the Portuguese discovered Sal in 1460. For several centuries, Europeans were unable to populate the island territory due to the arid climate, so they only grazed cattle in its valleys. In the 30s of the 19th century, deposits of table salt were discovered in the crater of an extinct volcano. This contributed to the colonization of the island. Residents mined salt and sold it to Brazil and African countries.
Nowadays, the island of Sal has a well-developed tourism infrastructure. This is evidenced by the fact that more than half of all guests of the Republic of Cape Verde spend their holidays here. Excellent natural conditions have made Sal an attractive destination for divers, boat lovers, surfers, windsurfers and kite surfers.
Boat trips along the coast are popular on the island. While traveling on yachts and catamarans, you can see interesting places, swim in the open sea, enjoy snorkeling and sea fishing. For lovers of the underwater world, excursions on boats with a transparent bottom are organized. Fans of educational tourism go to the ruins of the Oásis de Algodoeiro fortress, which the Portuguese military erected during the development of the island of Sal. Many tourists visit the small town of Santa Maria.
Diving on the island of Sal
There are several large diving centers on Sal Island that teach beginners, rent out equipment, and organize night dives and underwater safaris for experienced divers. Suffice it to say that there are more than thirty interesting dive sites near Sal.
Most of the divers visit the Blue Room, the Palmiera site, the Buracona cave and the Ponta do Farol reef. In addition, there are three dive sites near the coast of the island, where sunken ships rest at depths accessible to beginners.
Surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing
Fans of active holidays choose the island of Sal because there is a steady ocean breeze blowing here throughout the year. There are six large surfing centers on the island that train beginners and rent out modern equipment. Each center has a professional rescue service.
Most athletes visit Ponta Prete. When there is a swell from the west, high waves rise here. True, the coast near Ponta Prete is rocky, so only experienced athletes are advised to ride on this spot.
Windsurfers and kitesurfers have long mastered the coast near Santa Maria. The coast of the city has the shape of a large horseshoe; in its center the water is always calm, so beginners train here. Along the edges of the bay, which extend into the open ocean, conditions are more difficult, and these places are chosen by experienced surfers who can handle large waves.
Not far from Santa Maria there is a simple Albatross spot. It is characterized by a stable side wind, which creates low waves. But if you ride far from the coast, you can become a victim of large waves, wind breaks and strong ocean currents.
Many kitesurfers try to surf the Salinas spot. The wide beach, lack of strong currents, stable winds and coral reef make the sport a great place to learn for beginners. Those who are not yet too confident in their abilities also choose the Canoa spot, located in the south of the island of Sal. There are no strong winds in the cozy bay, and beginners can easily glide along small, safe waves. During the mating season, humpback whales gather here, so the bay has the status of a marine reserve.
Hotel deals
How to get there
Travelers from Russia get to Amilcar Cabral International Airport on the island of Sal only after making a transfer. Tourists fly from Moscow to Sal in approximately 9 hours with a transfer in Lisbon, Madrid, Paris or Frankfurt. The main air harbor is located 2 km from Espargos, the capital of the island.
When preparing a trip to Cape Verde to the island of Sal, it was difficult to find any useful information. Therefore, upon my return, I decided to make life a little easier for those who wish to go there in the future.
I’ll say right away that I was flying from Italy. Portuguese Airlines (TAP) with connection in Lisbon. They also fly from Moscow. From Lisbon to Sal about 3.5 hours. Night flight. The time difference with Moscow is 4 hours.
I didn't have a visa. I called the Consulate in Moscow (or the Representative Office, whatever it’s called), explained the situation (that I was studying in Italy and had no idea where to go to apply for it here), the secretary assured me that there would be no problems, and that they would issue me a visa upon arrival (for 25 euros), and if problems arise when boarding the plane, if the airline workers start to find fault, then I can safely insist on my own. “Insist on your own” confused me a little, but didn’t stop me! :) There were no problems at all. The presence of a visa was not checked either at the airport in Rome or at the airport in Lisbon.
There is nothing difficult about getting from the airport. Sal to Santa Maria (a resort village in the south of the island) at any time of the day or night. The taxi fare is fixed - 15 euros.
By the way, in Cape Verde you can pay in both the local currency escudo and euro. The official and constant exchange rate is 1 euro = 110 escudos. So, if you want, exchange euros for local currency (you can do this at a bank or in a hotel, the rate in the hotel is the same as in the bank), or if you want, no. Although there is still a small benefit in the exchange - if you pay in euros in a restaurant or store, then in this case you will be “served” at the rate of 1 = 100. Keep in mind.
There are no problems with living there either. There are all-inclusive resorts, there are small inexpensive family hotels, and there are also guesthouses. You can also rent an apartment or villa.
For example, this one. with beautiful bushes in the yard, or right by the ocean:
Villa by the ocean
We stayed at the Da Luz Hotel. a double room with breakfast, but without air conditioning :) cost 41 euros per night. The hotel is quite nice, nothing special (what can you expect for that kind of money). They cleaned and changed towels every day. The breakfast is edible, the staff is always ready to help. On the last day, our check-in (according to the hotel rules) was supposed to be at 12 noon, and our flight was only at 2 am. we asked to stay in the room for another half a day, in the end they didn’t even charge us any money for it. We handed over the keys to the room at 23 zero zero.
This red-haired magnatka :) lived in our hotel. loved sunbathing by the pool:
Lived in a hotel
If you want to find accommodation even cheaper, there is such an option - it’s called Cafe relax. There are rooms on the 2nd floor. 20 euros without breakfast. I haven’t seen what these rooms look like, so I can’t vouch for the quality. By the way, this cafe has very tasty pastries, and it’s not expensive at all.
To find housing, I can recommend the website caboverde dot com.
Santa Maria itself is very small, so there is absolutely no big difference in which part of it you live in. There are grocery stores (but there’s nothing to buy in them :)). Don't count on cheap fruits. everything is imported and expensive. bananas and papaya are all the fruits.
School and Anglican Church (there are only two of them in Santa Maria, there is also a Catholic one):
Anglican Church
restaurants and cafes are mainly run by Italians. There are no "fashionable" places. everything is simple. prices are normal, although they vary quite a lot, depending on the location. From my own experience, I recommend the Papaya cafe-bar (located on the territory of one of the resorts). a great place to have a couple of glasses of something at sunset. wonderful view, great terrace. but the food is only salads, pizza, light snacks and desserts.
sunset from Papaya terrace
Sunset from Papaya Terrace
The second “appetizing” place is the Onda cristalina (Crystal Wave) restaurant, a 1-minute walk from the Da Luz hotel. outwardly it looks more like a canteen than a restaurant, but it’s tasty and cheap. Europeans who have bought real estate and live permanently or “come to the island for the summer” come there for lunch and dinner. incredibly tasty and cheapest (about 7 euros) grilled octopus (polipo) in Santa Maria here!
Also check out the Creol cafe, it’s right next to the school. The homemade food there is delicious, especially the Cape Verdian fish.
And finally, our favorite place is Angela's. A small family restaurant, but so popular that a table for Friday and Saturday evenings must be booked in advance. At lunchtime from about 12 to 15 they operate on a buffet system. 8 euros per kilogram (!!!) of food... :) Sunday is a day off. In general, almost everywhere is a day off on Sunday, everything is closed...
The Republic of Cape Verde is located on the islands of the same name in the Atlantic Ocean. An archipelago of 10 large and 8 smaller islands is located 620 kilometers off the west coast of Africa. The distance between the islands is 100-150 kilometers. Conventionally, they are divided into 2 groups: “leeward” (Sotaventu) and “windward” (Barlaventu). The first includes the islands Sao Vicente, Santo Antau, Sao Nicolau, Sal, Boavista and a desert island Santa Lucia. The "windward" group of islands includes Brava, Fogo, Santiago And Mayu.
Translated from Portuguese, the name of the country means "Cape Verde". Previously, the country was called that in Russian - Cape Verde, unofficially this name still exists.
Cape Verde is a unique country in the sense that it has preserved pristine nature, which miraculously has not been touched by the rapidly developing tourist infrastructure here. The main thing that travelers come here for is diving (Cape Verde is one of the world's top five most interesting places for diving), windsurfing and sport fishing. And of course, guests of the Cape Verde Islands will not leave indifferent the local carnivals and music festivals (by the way, it was this country that gave the world the inimitable Cesaria Evora). And the sincere hospitality of the Cape Verdians and the peaceful atmosphere of a paradise lost in the ocean will leave an indelible mark on the soul.
Capital |
Praia |
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Population |
523,568 people |
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Population density |
129.8 people/km² |
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Portuguese, Cape Verdean |
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Religion |
Catholicism (up to 80% of the population), traditional beliefs |
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Form of government |
presidential republic |
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Cape Verdean escudo |
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Timezone |
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International dialing code |
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Internet domain zone |
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Electricity |
Climate and weather
The Cape Verde archipelago is dominated by a subtropical dry climate. True, compared to the countries of continental Africa, which are located in the same climatic zone, Cape Verde is generally cooler and the temperature differences between day and night are less pronounced.
It is coolest in January - February. The average January temperature is +22 °C, but in the mountains it can be significantly lower.
The cold Canary Current also makes its own adjustments to the temperature regime. Its waters never warm higher +20 °C and therefore cool the air both over the ocean and over the islands. Only in July does the current shift north, giving way to the warm Guinea Current, due to which the temperature of coastal waters rises to +24…+28 degrees.
It should be noted that weather conditions are also greatly influenced by northeast winds, which deliver dry, cool air to the islands. From October to June, dry and hot “harmattan” winds blow from the Sahara from October to June for several hours a day, bringing with them heat and fine Saharan dust. It hangs in the air for a long time, forming "dusty fog".
But in August, the archipelago is blown by southern and southwestern winds, which bring rain. The air becomes clean and cool, although in the mountains it is drier than on the coast. During the day the air temperature can rise to +36 °C, and at night does not fall lower +18…+20 °C.
The best time to travel to Cape Verde is considered to be from August to October, when warm, pleasant weather guarantees a comfortable stay.
The Cape Verde archipelago is of volcanic origin, but today there is only one active volcano - Fogo, which is the highest point of the country (2829 m). Mountainous terrain is also characteristic of the islands of São Vicente, Santiago and São Nicolo.
Approximately 16% of Cape Verde's territory is the so-called "lunar landscape"(dry gravelly uplands), where the vegetation is not diverse. However, the flora of the islands of Santiago, Brava and Santo Antao pleases with a riot of tropical colors. Cypress, eucalyptus, pine and acacia trees grow in the mountains; evergreen bombardeira trees can be seen on the northern slopes of the mountains.
In the valleys of the islands grow baobabs, almonds, date and coconut palms, dragon trees and mangoes. In total, Cape Verde has about 450 species of native plants and approximately 150 imported from other countries.
The peculiarity of the fauna of Cape Verde is that before the arrival of European colonialists there were no mammals here. Monkeys, rabbits, rats, and many domestic animals were brought to the islands and took root well in local conditions. There are a lot of birds, reptiles, and insects in Cape Verde. The coastal waters are home to sea turtles, spiny lobsters, sharks and numerous species of fish.
Attractions
The main attractions of Cape Verde are of natural origin: each island of the archipelago has its own charm. For example, Santo Antão is known for its picturesque mountain range and the Cova craters. Brava proudly bears the title of the Island of Flowers, and Fogo attracts travelers with an active volcano.
The largest island in Cape Verde is Santiago. The capital of the country is located here, in addition, the island is famous for its picturesque mountains, cliffs and canyons. Of the historical monuments here, the Portuguese fortress is interesting. St. Philip's in the city Cidade Velha(Old city). The monument is unique in that it is the first European building on the archipelago. The walls of the fortress are decorated with ship cannons raised from the ocean floor. The old city center is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as "Europe's first colonial outpost in the tropics."
Fans of archaeological mysteries should visit the picturesque island Sao Nicolau. Here is the famous rock Rotcha Scribida, on which ancient writings are visible. No one has yet been able to decipher them. The most popular version is that they were left by people who visited the island before the Portuguese.
Nutrition
Traditional Cape Verdean cuisine is distinguished by an abundance of delicious seafood and fish dishes. The most popular types of fish are sawfish, tuna and sea bass. Also in the local restaurants you will definitely be offered octopus, lobster, barnacles and other seafood delicacies.
On the other hand, the cuisine of the Cape Verde Islands does not ignore meat and game dishes. Vegetables and herbs also play an important role on the Cape Verdean table. And for dessert they usually serve sweets made from tropical fruits.
It is unlikely that you will be able to spend a holiday in Cape Verde without trying the national dish cachupa. This masterpiece of stewing is included in the regular menu of Cape Verdeans, and in recent years, guests of the country have also appreciated it. In large cities, cachupa is, as a rule, a weekend dish, but the further you get from the capital, the more often it appears on the table. Cachupa is prepared, depending on the state of finances, according to "rich" or "poor" recipes The more ingredients, the “richer” the dish is: fish, beef, chicken, pork, bacon, corn, beans, onions, pumpkin, sweet potato, olive oil, and so on. Each island has its own cachupa recipe.
The cost of dinner at a mid-level restaurant varies between $20-40. In general, there are many establishments of different price ranges on the islands. Almost every city has a buffet-type restaurant, where, having paid about $10 for entry, you can try as many local and European delicacies as you like.
Accommodation
There are no problems with accommodation for travelers to Cape Verde. There are so many hotels and apartments here that you can easily find excellent options at attractive prices.
The country's hotel stock is, first of all, resort complexes with excellent infrastructure: restaurants, cafes, swimming pools, golf courses, children's playgrounds. Many hotels operate according to the system all inclusive. Large hotels offer guests diving school services and dive equipment rental.
But be prepared for the fact that not all 4* and 5* hotels offer a level of service that objectively corresponds to the declared category. For example, high-speed Internet access often comes at an additional cost.
The most modern and comfortable hotels are located on the islands of Sal, Santiago, Sao Nicolau, Sao Vicente, Mayu. The island of Sal leads in the number of hotels.
There are also small family hotels at quite affordable prices, as well as hotels aimed at surfers and sport fishing enthusiasts. You can rent a modest apartment or an entire villa on the Atlantic coast: it all depends on the desire and wallet of the tourist. Mid-level apartments will cost $20-25 per person per day.
Entertainment and relaxation
Thrill-seekers will love the activities in Cape Verde. "Volcanic Snowboard"(snowboarding from the top of a volcano straight to the black sands) was invented on the island of Fogo, and it has already broken records of popularity among tourists.
You can't come to this country and not go diving. There are many places in Cape Verde where diving guarantees unforgettable emotions: reefs, rocks, grottoes with octopuses, crabs and other marine life, as well as sunken ships always delight adventure lovers. The best dive sites are concentrated around the islands of Sal, Santiago and Boavishita. The optimal time for diving is considered to be from April to November; at other times, some areas are inaccessible for diving. Even if you have never been diving, there are a lot of diving centers on the islands, where beginners are also prepared for diving.
The second most popular type of active recreation is windsurfing. The constant Atlantic breeze in the Cape Verde Islands guarantees windsurfing all year round. The island is most popular among surfers, as there are several surf clubs catering to both beginners and professionals.
The mountains of Santo Antau Island offer ideal conditions for trekking and hang gliding. Hiking and cycling trips can be organized in the valleys.
But if active holidays are not your thing, you can have a great time on the beach in Cape Verde. The beaches here are amazing: huge, clean and uncrowded. Sun loungers are available for free.
It’s worth visiting the colorful festivals here. One of the most colorful - February Carnival, which takes place in Praia and Mindelo.
Purchases
Cape Verde cannot be called a shopaholic's dream, but travelers will certainly enjoy souvenirs made by local craftsmen: clay figurines, African masks, products made from tortoiseshell, coconut or ox horn. Paintings with Cape Verdean motifs are very popular, as are figurines of people and animals made of bone or wood - they are sold everywhere. If you bargain well, you can reduce the price by one and a half to two times.
Local open markets are attractive because, in addition to souvenirs and handicrafts, you can buy fresh fish and seafood there. And, of course, tourists are attracted there by the local flavor, unique only to these islands.
Generally, shops in Cape Verde are open from 08:00 to 18:00, and supermarkets are open until 21:00. On Sunday, almost everywhere is a day off; some stores can be open until 13:00.
Transport
The main transport in Cape Verde for moving from island to island is airplanes. Local airline Transportes Aereos de Cabo Verde o operates flights 1-2 times a day to each island. Airfare prices range from $40 to $80 one way. If you plan to fly around the islands a lot, it is reasonable to purchase an Air Pass for $380 for 10 flights, valid for 22 days.
In addition to planes, boats and ferries operate between neighboring islands.
But on land, the cheapest way to travel is by minibus (aluguer): the fare is approximately $1.3. However, be prepared for the fact that the minibuses do not have a clear schedule.
Catching a taxi on the islands is also not a problem. True, the fare will be much higher: $10-12 for a half-hour trip. You can rent a taxi for the whole day, and the price in this case will be negotiable.
Many travelers rent cars. For example, Suzuki Jimny will cost about $70 per day. If you need a larger car (pickup or SUV), get ready to shell out $90-$120.
In general, the roads in Cape Verde are in good condition, but you should not drive if you are not used to mountain roads (which are common on most islands).
Connection
The Internet can be used in all major hotels and business centers in large cities. There are also internet cafes. Paid Cabocom Wi-Fi is also available everywhere (about $20 for 250 MB or $30 for 500 MB).
Cellular communication is provided by a local operator Cabo Verde Telecom, the range adopted in the country GSM 900. Russian tourists can use Thuraya satellite communications (subscribers of MTS and "Megophone"). Of course, you can buy a SIM card on the spot, although its cost is not very attractive - about $30. Calling from pay phones is not very convenient, if only because there are very few of them: they are only available in post offices and airports.
Safety
Cape Verde is a completely safe country for tourists. The government of the archipelago pays special attention to ensuring order, as the country seeks to attract more and more tourists. The main offenses are observed in the capital of Cape Verde, Praia, and on the island of Sao Vicente. The most popular tourist areas (Boavista Island, Sal Island) are calm and safe. In general, travelers should take the usual precautions: do not leave expensive items unattended, do not walk at night in questionable areas, and watch your pockets and bags in crowded places.
The sanitary situation in Cape Verde should also not cause concern. There are no typical African diseases here, and vaccination is not required for entry. However, you need to know that, as in many tropical countries, in the Republic of Cape Verde there is a certain risk of contracting viral and infectious diseases: unusual climatic conditions and nutrition can weaken the body and make it more vulnerable. Be alert and practice good personal hygiene.
Tap water is not suitable for drinking without prior sanitation - it should be boiled. But the best option would be drinking water in plastic bottles.
Business climate
The Cape Verde archipelago offers excellent business opportunities. This is especially true in areas such as transport, import of goods and fishing. A positive aspect is the opportunity to obtain citizenship of the country by investing about $30,000 in the development of your company. Citizenship of Cape Verde gives the right to visa-free entry into West African countries and makes it very easy to obtain a Portuguese visa, which opens the door to EU countries.
Registering a company in Cape Verde is easy. The process takes a little over three weeks. First you need to choose a name and reserve it in the Commercial Register ( Conservatoria do Registro de Firmas e Similares). The investor must provide the registrar with several options for the name of his company along with a detailed description of its objectives. The registration fee is approximately $8. After this, the founder deposits the authorized capital into the bank account, and the company is registered in the commercial register. You will need to pay a registration fee (about $120) and a Chamber of Commerce fee ($12). After registration, the owner receives a municipal license, as well as a license for the type of activity of the enterprise. True, if the company’s activities are not related to the import or export of goods, you will not need the latter. Obtaining licenses is the longest process in starting a business (about eight working days). In addition, you will have to pay the fee again - this time around $370. You can not waste time while a license is issued and register your employees with the Department of Social Protection of the Population, take out insurance against industrial accidents, and register with the Labor Inspectorate. At this point, in essence, the stage of opening a company is completed, and you can calmly go about your business.
Real estate
Real estate in Cape Verde is becoming increasingly attractive among foreign investors. There are several reasons for this: the country’s rapidly developing economy, the boom in the construction of modern comfortable housing, the development of the tourism sector, and, of course, the government’s policy aimed at promoting investment from abroad. Other important advantages are the absence of mineral resources on the archipelago (the land will not be taken away later to develop gold deposits or drill an oil well), low crime rates and laws that do not discriminate between Cape Verdean citizens and foreigners. As they say, maximum advantages with minimum disadvantages.
The downside of buying real estate in Cape Verde, to be very picky, is the presence of taxes and fees when completing the transaction. But they are quite democratic: 3% of the cost of a house or apartment is the real estate tax and approximately the same amount will have to be paid as
notary fee.
As for housing prices, they may seem fantastically low, especially when compared with Moscow ones. It is now quite possible to purchase a one-bedroom apartment 150 meters from the sea for $90,000-100,000, and this will be modern housing as part of a condominium with excellent infrastructure. Prices for small villas with sea views start from $70,000-80,000. However, analysts predict that this situation in the Cape Verde Islands real estate market will not last long, and investors who want to get the maximum benefit from their investment should hurry up.
If you plan to dive in Cape Verde, remember that you will need insurance to cover the risks of diving, insurance to cover the risks of repatriation in the event of death, and a medical certificate that gives permission to dive.
In expensive restaurants, it is customary to leave a tip of 10% of the bill. In small establishments, tips are usually left at the discretion of the client, but are sometimes included in the bill as a separate item.
As for customs regulations, any currency can be imported and exported without restrictions, and there is no need to fill out a declaration. The import of weapons is prohibited unless there is a special permit. You can import no more than 5 kg of fresh vegetables and fruits duty free.
Visa information
Tourists from Russia need a visa to enter Cape Verde. It can be issued either at the honorary consulate of Cape Verde in Moscow or at the airport of the island Sal upon arrival.
Depending on the purpose of the visit and length of stay, there are several types of visas to enter Cape Verde: short-term (type C), transit (type A and B) and national (type D). Most often, travelers require visas of the first type, which, in turn, are tourist, guest and business. You can apply for both a single and multiple entry visa.
If you decide to apply for a visa at the Cape Verdean consulate in Moscow, you will need the following documents:
- a completed and signed application form;
- a foreign passport with a validity of at least three months;
- 1 color photograph 3.5 x 4.5 cm;
- hotel reservation (original or copy);
- air tickets (copy or printout of electronic tickets);
- copies of completed pages of all-Russian and foreign passports.
If you are traveling on a business trip or visiting, you will also need an invitation from a company or individual.
As a rule, visas are issued within 3 working days. You can get a visa in 1 working day, but you will have to pay double the consular fee. By the way, it is equal to $59.16 for a single-entry individual visa and is paid in Russian rubles at the rate current on the day of payment. Obviously, it is much more convenient to obtain a visa at the airport Sal- in any case, when it comes to a single-entry tourist visa: both the list of documents and the visa fee are smaller. The immigration officer will only need to present your passport and return tickets and pay 25 € for the visa. The only advantage of obtaining a visa at the consulate in advance is that the traveler does not have to prove to border guards at intermediate airports his right to enter the country (there are no direct flights from Russia to Cape Verde).
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