Strengthening openings in aerated concrete house. Installation of windows and doors in a house with walls made of aerated concrete blocks. Installation of metal and fire doors in aerated concrete, drywall and sandwich panels

Installation of doors in a house with walls made of aerated concrete blocks (from cellular concrete blocks).

The user manuals of the American companies producing aerated concrete Contec, E-crete, Delta indicate that, if necessary, doors in relatively small openings (up to 91 cm) can be installed directly on aerated concrete. The door frame is fixed in these cases with cellular concrete anchors. (see fig. 1, variant D)

Why are more complex attachment points for door frames to aerated concrete walls invented? Aerated concrete is a rather fragile material. When installing heavy steel doors, doors in large openings (openings of more than 91 cm, garage doors, etc.), doors in commercial premises with high traffic of visitors, aerated concrete in places where the door frame is directly attached can experience significant shock loads (shearing, pulling out) . To prevent the gradual coloring of the porous structure of aerated concrete (cellular concrete) under a very small anchor area, it is recommended to install door frames in such a way as to distribute the loads from opening and closing doors over a much larger area. When installing doors in individual houses made of aerated concrete, it is possible to use intermediate securely fixed wooden frames or embedded bars. Wooden frames can be made of dry board, glued wood (furniture board), timber or plywood. The wood must be pre-impregnated with indelible antiseptics or, even better, impregnated with antiseptics under pressure. You can use heat-treated wood, as it is much less prone to decay. When using ordinary dry wood, preference should be given to larch - as one of the most rot-resistant woods available for a reasonable price.

In simpler cases of installing interior doors, they use either a embedded beam embedded in aerated concrete (picture No. 1, option A), or overhead wooden panels along the thickness of the wall in the opening (picture No. 1, option B). The wood is installed on a layer of aerated concrete adhesive or tile adhesive to prevent the formation of voids between the wall and the wood panel. The tree is fixed on the wall using anchors for cellular concrete and, if necessary, to prevent hinged rocking - using self-tapping screws with a length of at least 7.5 cm from 30 to 150 kgf The value of pull-out loads is 50% of the above values). Door frames are attached to the wooden frame of the doorways with self-tapping screws.

Wooden panels can be solid, covering the entire height and width of the doorway (Fig. No. 2, option A), or made from pieces of wood installed at intervals of not more than 61 cm in the centers (Fig. No. 2, option B). In the second installation option, after installation and fastening to the wooden planks of the door frame, the free gaps between the wall and the door frame are foamed with mounting foam with a small degree of expansion. This allows the door frame to be more rigidly fixed due to the oppositely directed holding forces of the self-tapping screws and the expanding forces of the mounting foam.

For doors in large openings (more than 91 cm or garage doors), it is recommended to secure the wooden frame-frame of the opening more firmly with adhesive anchors (Fig. No. 1, option B). In this case, threaded studs or anchors are embedded in a drill hole with a depth of at least 15 cm, aerated concrete blocks of doorways with a step of no more than 61 cm using epoxy resin. The use of adhesive for aerated concrete is not recommended, since due to its fluidity it is impossible to achieve uniform filling of a horizontal drilling hole. You can use aerated concrete adhesive or mortar when fixing an anchor or stud while laying an aerated concrete wall. At the same time, a groove is cut out in the aerated concrete block, open from above, an anchor or stud is laid, and the cavity is filled with glue or mortar. To the embedded stud on a layer of adhesive for aerated concrete or tile adhesive, with the help of a washer and nut, a wooden strapping of the opening is attached. If necessary, the strapping of the opening is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. Either garage hinges or a door frame are attached to the harness.

Figure #1. Nodes for fastening door frames to walls made of aerated concrete (cellular concrete)

Cellular types of concrete in general and aerated concrete in particular are rapidly replacing bricks and cinder blocks that are familiar to everyone from the market. Aerated concrete has a lot of advantages, but there are also certain disadvantages. Due to the porous structure of the material, the installation instructions for doors and windows are somewhat different from the traditional ones.

Pictured is the installation of the door.

Preparatory activities

Many owners are afraid that aerated concrete blocks, having a cellular structure, are easily destroyed. Because of this, thieves can simply tear out the inserted metal door without bothering to open it. They are partly right, because if you install windows or doors using traditional technology, then such a danger exists.

Specifically, the tie-in technology will be discussed below, but now let's focus on the preparation. First of all, it should be noted that both windows and doors must be ordered with a small gap. That is, the size of the structure should be less than the window or door opening by 20 - 60 mm.

Before installation, the surface of the blocks must be prepared. Many craftsmen advise simply gluing the outside with a waterproofing, self-adhesive tape. But we think otherwise.

Aerated concrete is a hygroscopic material and at the junction there is a high probability of moisture ingress. Therefore, it is more advisable to impregnate the blocks with a waterproofing, deep penetration strengthening soil. Thus, you will not only provide reliable waterproofing, but also strengthen the surface of the block to a depth of 50 mm.

Mounting technology

Do not be afraid to install such structures with your own hands. The installation technology, of course, provides for additional costs for strengthening, but the price of these materials is disproportionately less than the payment for the work of professionals.

Installation of a metal door

As you know, metal is a heavy material and installing a metal door in aerated concrete is a fairly responsible job.

Especially if you prefer reliable domestic thick metal doors with good protection.

• As mentioned earlier, the dowels that come with the door will not hold securely, so you can do two things here. We recommend an easier way. For it, you will need to additionally purchase a metal corner and take care of the welding machine.
• For a standard entrance metal door, a 35 mm corner is enough. If you need to install a large double door or garage door, then we advise you to take a corner of at least 50 mm.
• Corners are cut to size of the opening and applied from the inside and outside of the opening. Between themselves, they need to be welded with the help of several jumpers.
• Jumpers are best cut from sheet metal with a width of about 50 mm. The thickness of the jumpers is selected depending on the power of the structure. For a standard door, metal with a thickness of 1.5 - 3 mm is sufficient. They need to be placed in the attachment points of the loot.

Tip: some owners try to save money by welding only two vertical, opposite structures.
Such a door, of course, will hold, but we advise you to make a fully welded enclosing structure from a corner.
The price will increase slightly, and the reliability will increase significantly.

• The frame is fixed on jumpers. In this case, due to the U-shaped grip, the structure will already hold well, but to be sure, you can screw 1 self-tapping screw with a length of at least 120 mm into each jumper. Please note that the door will still be attached to the jumpers and the fixing screws should not match.
• Further, the door hinge is inserted according to the level and fixed with wooden wedges.. To fix the door, you can also use powerful metal screws with a length of less than 150 mm. But if dowels are closer to you, then the holes are pre-drilled with an ordinary drill, and then special ones are fixed in them.
• After securely fixing the door hatch, both in the wall and in the corner frame, it is necessary to coat the outside with sealant and blow out all the cracks with foam. For better sealing, experts advise, after hardening and cutting off excess foam, once again coat the seams with sealant from the inside.

Important: covenants may offer to hammer several long pieces of reinforcement into the walls and fix the door on them. This can work with a brick wall, but on aerated concrete, such a door will loosen within 1 year and you will have to do everything all over again.

The video in this article shows how to mount the doors.

A few words about window installation

Installing windows in aerated concrete is somewhat easier than installing metal doors, but still requires attention.

Windows are not subjected to the same loads as doors, plus the weight of these structures is much less.

• The window frame is attached to special metal anchor plates.. Plates can be bought at any hardware store or cut with your own hands from metal 1.5 mm thick. Initially, the plates must be fixed with self-tapping screws at the ends of the window frame.
• After that, you need to clearly install the window frame in the opening according to the level and plumb and fix it with pre-prepared wooden wedges. It is desirable to make the distance from the frame to the wall the same.
• The best option is when the window opening is pre-composed of aerated concrete blocks with a quarter. A quarter is an L-shaped protrusion located outside, into which a window block is inserted. If this detail is not provided in advance, then a false quarter is made.

• Anchor plates are bent and tightly joined to the wall. They are fixed in the same way as doors, using long self-tapping screws 120 - 160 mm. After fixing with plates, wooden wedges are pulled out and the gap, along the perimeter, is filled with finely porous mounting foam. As in the case of doors, the gap on both sides must be coated with sealants.

Important: both the installation of doors and the installation of windows in aerated concrete can be carried out in another way.
It provides for preparation during construction.
For this, special U-shaped blocks are mounted along the perimeter of the opening.
Subsequently, a wooden beam can be laid in them or reinforced concrete can be poured and structures can already be mounted on them.

The video in this article shows the installation of windows in aerated concrete.

Conclusion

We have outlined the basic principles of installation. It should also be noted that interior doors, as well as any metal-plastic or wooden structures, are mounted using the window mounting technology. The use of a metal welded frame is allowed, but in this case it is not advisable.

Some builders confuse the technology of vertical reinforcement of walls made of aerated concrete blocks with the technology of erecting buildings based on a monolithic reinforced concrete frame with a floor-by-floor supported masonry of aerated concrete blocks. The main difference between the technologies lies in the fact that in the case of the construction of the rear with a supporting reinforced concrete frame, all loads are perceived and transmitted precisely by the frame, and not by the wall masonry. Aerated concrete masonry in this case acts as a heat-insulating non-bearing fence. Most often, the reinforced concrete frame is open to the street surfaces of the walls and is an excellent "cold bridge". Vertical reinforcement is most often hidden in the thickness of a load-bearing or self-supporting aerated concrete wall, or open to the inner surfaces of the walls. By the way, for the two-story building in the picture below, there was no structural need to make a monolithic reinforced concrete frame. Aerated concrete of compressive strength class B2.0-B2.5 does not need additional reinforcement of the walls, even to support reinforced concrete floor slabs. To support the floor slabs, it was enough to make a monolithic reinforced concrete strapping belt. Typically, this technology is used for the construction of multi-storey buildings with the possibility of filling the walls with aerated concrete of the lowest grade in terms of density with the lowest thermal conductivity.

Vertical wall reinforcement is a vertical reinforcing connection of the building foundation through an external triangular or rectangular strobe, or through an intra-wall round channel filled with heavy concrete, with an overlying monolithic strapping belt, or a support platform (depending on the purpose of the vertical reinforcement of the wall). Vertical reinforcement can be completed within one floor of the building, or continue for several or all floors.

In what cases do they resort to vertical reinforcement of aerated concrete walls(cellular concrete):
1. Reinforcement of walls subject to or potentially subject to lateral (lateral) loads (fences, free-standing walls, underground floors of buildings, basements, walls of buildings on steep slopes, walls of buildings in the area of ​​mudflows, avalanches, in regions with strong winds, hurricanes and tornadoes, in seismic areas). It should be noted that horizontal reinforcement also gives increased seismic resistance to aerated concrete walls. However, the best indicators of seismic resistance have walls with horizontal and vertical reinforcement.
2. Increasing the bearing capacity of building walls made of aerated concrete. For example, the use of vertical reinforcement allows the use of aerated concrete of minimum density, which is characterized by lower thermal conductivity, when laying walls.
3. Vertical reinforcement allows you to organize the perception and transfer of loads from a significant concentrated load (for example, from a long-span I-beam).
4. Strengthening the bonding of masonry of mating walls and corners with vertical reinforcement.
5. Reinforcing openings in walls.
6. Reinforcement of small piers.
7. Vertical reinforcement of aerated concrete columns.
8. Vertical reinforcement of vertical large-format aerated concrete wall panels (not yet available on the Russian market).

Vertical reinforcement can be arranged in special O-blocks supplied by many foreign manufacturers of aerated concrete products. Also, O-blocks can be made independently using a drill with a crown with a diameter of 12-15 cm. You can also arrange openings in rectangular aerated concrete blocks using a chainsaw or other power tool. The minimum reinforcement diameter used for vertical reinforcement of aerated concrete walls is 14 mm. The gap between the reinforcement and the walls of the block is filled with heavy concrete grade not lower than M200. It is required that the distance from the reinforcement to the wall of the block is at least 5 cm. Under normal conditions, one rod is sufficient for vertical reinforcement. However, with the perception of a concentrated load, in conditions of increased seismicity, reinforcement with 4 reinforcement bars may be necessary. Another option for vertical reinforcement is the cutting of triangular or quadrangular strobes from the inside of the walls for laying reinforcing bars in them. From the reinforcement bars to the walls of the gates filled with concrete, there must also be at least 5 cm.

The vertical reinforcement reinforcement must be anchored into the base (foundation) and the upper strapping belt of the aerated concrete wall. Anchors for vertical reinforcement can be laid at the stage of pouring the foundation, or performed after the foundation concrete has gained grade strength.

Strengthening foam concrete walls is a serious and solid task in every sense. The fact is that the types of cellular concrete, foam concrete and aerated concrete, with all their technical and operational advantages, are highly hygroscopic. That is, both indoor and aerated concrete walls will inevitably absorb moisture from the environment, and this is fraught with their rapid wear, brittleness and cracks.

Reinforcement of walls from foam blocks gives strength to the structure.

High humidity can also have a negative impact on the microclimate in the apartment, lead to the appearance of damp spots and mold on the walls. However, these and many other problems can be avoided if the walls are strengthened in advance.

Material selection

Exterior decoration of the wall from foam blocks: blocks, insulation, plaster.

So that the hard work of strengthening the walls is not in vain, the first thing you should pay close attention to is the quality of the foam blocks themselves. Walls made of high-quality material will regularly serve for many decades, while low-quality foam concrete will begin to collapse in a couple of years. Therefore, foam blocks should be purchased from trusted manufacturers, having previously familiarized themselves with hygiene certificates and test reports. The foam block should be gray, but not white at all, slightly rough to the touch, dense, without cracks and chips. It should also be remembered that after the release of the foam block, it must lie down for at least 28-30 days. During this time, he gains the necessary strength. The foam block, which has not “ripened” to the required condition, is very similar in properties to an unburned brick and crumbles easily.

Strengthening should be done at the construction stage. This is achieved by proper reinforcement of the masonry and pouring under the floors of a concrete armored belt 10-20 cm high, sufficient to withstand the weight of the floor slabs.

Reinforcement of blocks is carried out every three or four rows using masonry welded mesh, which is a guaranteed way to increase the strength of foam concrete walls. Since the diameter of the masonry mesh is 4-5 mm, grooves are cut out for it in the masonry. They are made with a wall chaser, a circular saw or a grinder, since foam concrete is easy to process.

Upon completion of construction, there are two ways to further strengthen the walls of foam blocks: plastering with a reinforced mesh or sheathing them with frame materials, such as drywall.

Reinforcement and plaster

Before applying plaster, foam concrete walls are treated with two layers of deep penetration primer with hydrophobic, that is, water-repellent properties.

After the primer dries, the foam concrete wall is reinforced with an all-metal or fiberglass mesh. The optimal mesh size is 25x25 mm. It is attached to the dowels, which are installed in such a way that the mesh between them is stretched and tightly, without gaps, adjacent to the wall. Then, if necessary, beacon profiles are installed on top of the grid. Work using a reinforced mesh is a little more expensive, but the mesh greatly facilitates the plastering process itself, and also serves the main purpose - to strengthen the foam concrete walls.

If you plan to plaster a small area, then you can do without a reinforcing mesh. Just make a series of frequent neat notches on the wall. Since foam concrete is a rather soft material, notches can be made with a regular hacksaw. However, this is true only for cut foam blocks. If the foam block is not cut, but cast, mesh reinforcement, even in small areas, is not only desirable, but necessary, due to the extremely low adhesion of this material. That is why, before starting work, a smooth block of cast foam concrete must be carefully processed with sandpaper or a file in order to give the surface the necessary roughness and increase its binding ability.

After installing the grid and beacons, it is processed with a special gypsum moisture-resistant vapor-permeable plaster. It is better to take a ready-made dry mix specially designed for surfaces from. It is simply diluted with water and easy to apply. You can make the necessary mixture with your own hands: 3 parts of sand, 1 part of cement, 1 part of lime, 0.6 parts of chalk. After applying the plaster, the wall must be puttied.

Walls made of foam blocks are painted with water-based silicate and silicone paints, which additionally close shallow, up to 2 mm, cracks and, thanks to antiseptic additives, prevent the appearance of bacteria and microorganisms.

It is better to entrust the installation of an iron door in a private house to professionals. This is not such an expensive service to save on it. You can “break wood” on your own, especially if the building is made of aerated concrete.

Specificity of aerated concrete blocks

This is a porous material that holds heat well. However, it is impossible to install metal doors (with powder coating or other finishing) in such a wall in the standard way on anchors. A bolt twisted into aerated concrete is strong to lateral forces, but does not hold at all if it is pulled towards itself. Accordingly, the metal structure cannot be fixed in the classical way.

Work with an assistant. A high-quality door from the StroyStalInvest company weighs at least 45 kg. It is very difficult to hang it on your own without undermining your back or damaging the door leaf.

How to order and install a door?

When installing the entrance metal structure to the aerated concrete building, observe the following rules:

1. The box should be 2-6 cm smaller than the opening.
2. Coat the walls near the entrance and the opening itself with a deep penetration primer and wait until it dries completely.
3. Strengthen the walls where the box will be placed. This is done using the 35th corner and crossbars (steel 1.5-3 mm thick). The U-shaped structure is welded so that the transverse metal inserts fall on the mounting points of the box. The same corner is cooked at the top and bottom with a notch outward.
4. Install on the sides of the passage, directly on the protruding corners, a beam. Pre-saturate it with an antiseptic and dry it. The width of the board is slightly narrower than the walls, the thickness is 25 or 30 mm. The height should be such that the beam can be hammered with effort, while it should not bend.
5. Fix the board with metal screws, 15 cm long. If a gap is visible between the beam and the wall, remove it, apply foam and reinstall, and then fix it.
6. Now install the box in the usual way - on the wedges.
7. Check the evenness with a level - set it correctly.
8. Fasten with dowels in the places of the cross bars.
9. Remove the wedges and seal the cracks.
10. After the foam has hardened, cut off the excess and install the trim.

Do not forget to hang the door leaf and adjust it. It should close smoothly, without effort.

Some subtleties of installation

The installation method described above is a combined one. It includes both a welded metal frame and a wooden harness. In fact, there are 3 ways to attach a door to cellular concrete:

• On anchors, but not simple ones - those that come with the door are replaced with special ones for cellular concrete. The method is suitable for single-field lightweight products.
• On a welded metal frame. In this case, the size of the door should be only a couple of centimeters narrower than the opening. After welding the U-shaped arches, which firmly fix the sidewalls of the passage, the box is installed in the standard way.
• On a wooden strap. In other words, a box is constructed from a wooden beam, which is attached to aerated concrete with glue and expansion anchors. And already a steel box is being installed to it.

The masters of StroyStalInvest will install any model presented in the catalog quickly and efficiently. In addition, the product will receive a guarantee for further maintenance and warranty repairs.

all-doors.ru

Installation of doors in aerated concrete - construction

Installation of doors in aerated concrete.

There are many ways to install a door in aerated concrete. Which one will be acceptable in your case depends on several factors: the mass of the door, the size of the doorway, what shock loads the door frame mount will experience.

If the width of the doorway is less than 90 cm, then the door frame can be installed directly on aerated concrete, using anchors for cellular concrete to fix it.

In the installation of interior doors made of wood in private houses made of aerated concrete, you can use embedded bars. Wood must be heat-treated or impregnated with an antiseptic. Of the species, we recommend larch, as it is resistant to decay and affordable.

This option, like the previous one, is suitable for private households. It involves the use of wooden panels for the entire thickness of the walls in the opening. To prevent the formation of voids between the panel and the wall, both surfaces are treated with tile adhesive or aerated concrete adhesive. Anchors for cellular concrete are used as fasteners and, in case of possible hinged swings, self-tapping screws no shorter than 7.5 cm. The figure below shows that wooden spacers can be solid around the perimeter of the doorway, and also made from pieces of wood. When installing according to the second method, the gaps not occupied by the slats are foamed with mounting foam with a small degree of expansion, achieving a more rigid fixation of the door frame.

To install doors in wide openings (office premises, garage doors), it will be more reliable to use adhesive anchors. In the gas-block wall along the perimeter of the entire opening, 15 cm holes are drilled with a step of no more than 60 cm, which are filled with epoxy. Then, anchors or threaded studs are placed in these cavities. Self-tapping screws can be used as an additional fastening of the strapping of the opening. At the final stage, a door frame or garage hinges are attached to the strapping.

Steel doors and massive doors for technical purposes can exert destructive loads on aerated concrete in the attachment points. Using one of the steel door installation methods below, you can minimize the effect of these forces on aerated concrete.

For light loads, as for a wooden door, for a steel one, it is also possible to use fastening to gas silicate by means of a solid or intermittent wooden gasket, with foaming in the latter case of free gaps with mounting foam.

A good option for strengthening the doorway with steel corners and a steel sheet (can be a channel) attached to the wall. The gap between the sheet (channel) and the gas-block wall is filled with a non-shrinking mortar.

Perhaps one of the most reliable fastenings can be obtained by laying steel fastening elements into the grooves of the wall at the stage of laying gas silicate blocks. The figure below shows what the embedded elements are. It is possible to attach the steel frame by bolting or welding to the supporting steel plates.

In some cases, with strong lateral loads on aerated concrete walls in the places of doorways, it is simply impossible to do without vertical reinforcement. For him, an O-shaped hole O \u003d 10-15 cm is arranged, passing in a vertical plane at a distance from the doorway at least. block and no further than 60 cm. The hole can be drilled independently with a diamond crown of the appropriate diameter, or O-blocks can be purchased in advance. Reinforcement O = 14 mm and class A400-A500 and steel embedded elements will also be required. The reinforcement is placed in an O-shaped hole and fixed with the lower end in the foundation, and with the upper end in the reinforced strapping belt. Support platforms (steel element) are mounted at the stage of laying gas blocks.

According to the materials of the site: http://gazobeton.ru

fix-builder.com

This will give good waterproofing and strengthen the surface of the blocks. Do not be afraid to install input structures yourself.

Of course, additional expenses will be required for strengthening, but the price of materials is lower than the payment for the work of the master. The technology of fastening the door to aerated concrete differs from other options.

The difference is in the specific characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Aerated concrete is porous, brittle and light.

Prepare the opening (the size of the opening should be 20mm larger than the size of the box, the maximum tolerance is +25mm on each side.

The surface of the framing planes must be flat and smooth, without sagging of plaster mortar and cracks.

Install the door on the outside of the opening.

The modern entrance, as a rule, is a massive metal structure. Meanwhile, the walls of houses, including the internal partitions of high-rise buildings, are increasingly being built from foam blocks.

How is it more reliable to “join” steel and not too strong masonry?

When ordering an entrance door, a measurer is almost always called.

It is with him that they should discuss the specifics of the walls, as well as making adjustments to the design of the door block and installation technology. There are two main ways to install boxes in "weak" openings.

The width of the mounting gap for foam block walls should not exceed 10 mm. It is important that the masters take the most responsible approach to filling it out.

Usually, polyurethane foam is used for this purpose, which does an excellent job of heat and sound insulation. To obtain the best result, it is necessary to remove dust from the surfaces and moisten them with water.

Suddenly the wind will blow it or someone will not calculate and will slam with all its might. I don’t believe in fairy tales that we’ll sing and everything will be ok.

Foam will lose its properties over time. I don’t want to worry later. Welded a steel frame on the opening of the GB.

And he planted chemical anchors in the wall. Installing the box in the frame does not raise any questions.

It's just that in me there are also important metal doors - putting a timchasovo on 6 anchors - too sickly.

Methods for installing entrance and interior doors in aerated concrete

The width and height of the doorways are determined during the construction phase of the walls. Here you can not do without cutting aerated concrete blocks to size using a special power tool or a conventional aerated concrete saw. The first method of fastening is reliable. It is provided by the project documentation for the house. Mortgages are installed on each side of the opening, their number depends on the height of the door.

When installing heavy steel doors in large openings (openings over 91 cm, garage doors, etc.), doors in commercial premises with high traffic of visitors, aerated concrete in places where the door frame is directly attached can experience significant shock loads (shear, pulling out).

To prevent the gradual coloring of the porous structure of aerated concrete (cellular concrete) under a very small anchor area, it is recommended to install door frames in such a way as to distribute the loads from opening and closing doors over a much larger area.

Do not be afraid to install such structures with your own hands.

The installation technology, of course, provides for additional costs for strengthening, but the price of these materials is disproportionately less than the payment for the work of professionals. As you know, metal is a heavy material and the installation of a metal door in aerated concrete is a fairly responsible job.

Especially if you prefer reliable domestic thick metal doors with good protection.

It is believed that the first option with the installation of timber is the best solution.

It is not necessary to install it around the entire perimeter: two vertical elements will be enough. It is very important that both elements are exactly aligned in the same plane.

There are several other requirements that determine the quality of the final result.

If heavy metal doors are being installed, then fastening should be carried out on the adhesive composition.

propuskspb.ru

Do-it-yourself front door installation: photo + video

A correctly installed front door not only ensures the safety of property, but also reduces heat loss (due to frame insulation) and reduces the audibility of what is happening outside the house or apartment. First of all, you should know that installing the front door with your own hands is possible. Moreover, you can do everything alone, but if the canvas is heavy, it is easier to work together. There is nothing complicated in the technology itself, but there are several features that you need to know before starting the installation yourself.

Preparing for installation

Before starting installation, it is required to remove the old door. This must be done carefully, trying not to damage the opening too much. Then the installation of the front door will be quick.

Dismantling the old door

First remove the door panel. If the model is with removable hinges, the doors are opened, a crowbar is placed under the lower edge of the canvas, and lifting the doors, they are removed from the hinges. If the hinges are non-separable, you will have to unscrew them. It's better to start from the bottom.

After dismantling the slopes, remove the wallpaper, beat off the plaster or putty. The task is to determine how the box was attached, to find the attachment points. If the door frame is metal, usually these are anchors, pieces of reinforcement. At the junction, they are cut off with a grinder. When all fasteners are cut off, the old box is squeezed out or knocked out. But with this procedure, excessive efforts are not necessary: ​​you can destroy the box so much that it needs to be repaired.

If the frame of the old front door is wooden, everything is simpler. Side racks can be cut approximately in the middle, and then, prying with a crowbar, break out of the opening. After the sidewalls are removed, the lintel can be removed easily. Also, the threshold is removed without problems.

Opening preparation

After the old door is removed, the doorway is prepared for installation. First, all pieces of putty, brick fragments, etc. are removed. Get rid of everything that can fall off. Then evaluate the opening, which is the result. If there are large voids, they are filled with bricks planted on cement mortar. Small potholes can be ignored. If there are gaps, it is better to cover them with a solution too.

Existing significant protrusions that may interfere with installation must be removed. You can use a hammer and chisel or a grinder with a cutting disc.

Carefully inspect the condition of the floor under the door frame. In old buildings, a wooden beam is installed in this place. Often it is already rotten, crumbled. If so, delete it.

If the bar still looks intact, check the condition of the wood with an awl. With a solid effort, stick a few into the wood, shaking a few times, take it out. So you check in different parts of the beam. If it enters with difficulty, to a shallow depth, the hole remains small, then everything is fine. If not, it enters easily, from rocking it is crushed and / or crumbles, the wood has become unusable. It also needs to be removed.

The vacated space is filled with the same beam (treated with impregnation from decay), laid with a brick. The gaps are filled with mortar.

As a result of all these actions, the doorway should be more or less even. So that you can install a new front door without interference.

Installation of metal doors

Steel (metal) doors are most often used as entrance doors. The door frame, door frame and the outer surface of the door leaf are made of metal. To ensure the required degree of heat and sound insulation, the canvas is laid with soundproofing material. From the side of the room, the entrance doors can also be sewn up with metal, or they can be with sheet material (budget option).

Rubber insulation is laid on the frame around the perimeter of the porch (sometimes on the door leaf). It performs two functions: it serves to seal and reduces the strength of the sound that occurs when the door slams shut. It turns out a reliable, warm and "quiet" front door.

Door preparation

Since it is problematic to insert a lock into a metal door, they order doors immediately with a lock. You receive a kit that includes an already installed lock. Pens come separately. Here they need to be installed in place, screwed with screws. Before installation, you need to check the operation of locks and latches. Everything should work smoothly, without effort and problems. If everything is fine, you can proceed with the installation of the entrance metal door.

If the doors are installed with access directly to the street (in a private house, for example), the door frame is laid with insulation from the outside. You can use stone wool cut into strips. It is inserted into the frame and held by the force of elasticity. It has a significant disadvantage: it is hygroscopic, which is why the doors can rust from the inside (if they stand as an exit to the street and are not sealed tightly). In multi-storey buildings, this is not critical: there is no precipitation at the entrance. Another way out is to put foam or fill the frame with foam. They are not afraid of moisture, and the thermal insulation is normal.

So that during installation and subsequent finishing work the paintwork of the box is not damaged, it is pasted around the perimeter with masking tape. It is removed after the slopes on the door are made. If some wires come through the door frame, it's time to install mortgages - a piece of plastic pipe or corrugated sleeve through which these wires will get inside.

Installation of interior doors is described here. Read more about sliding doors here.

Mounting in brick and concrete wall

It is more convenient to put doors in which the canvas can be removed. Before installation, it is removed from the hinges. The door frame is inserted into the prepared opening. Below it is placed on mounting pads 20 mm high. She should become free in the opening.

By changing the thickness of the linings, we ensure that the lower frame is strictly level. This is checked using the building level. Having set it horizontally, we set it vertically: so that the racks do not deviate either forward or backward, but stand strictly vertically. This is also checked using a level, only the bubble device is located on the short part of the tool. Another option is to check with a plumb line.

After the box is level, it is wedged with prepared wedges. They can be carved from wood, or you can buy plastic ones. Wedges are inserted on long racks rub pieces, at the top - two. They should be placed near the fasteners, but not overlapping them.

After installing the wedges, it is once again checked whether it stands correctly: in the horizontal and vertical planes. There should be no deviations.

Next, the installation of the metal door frame in the opening begins. There are two types of mounting holes: steel eyes welded to the box and a through mounting hole (there are actually two of them: in the outer plate of a slightly larger diameter and in the inner one - of a smaller one).

There is no difference in the installation method. Just frames with holes in the body of the box can be installed on thinner walls. This may be important if the installation of the front door is in a panel house: it is far from always possible to put doors with eyelets in them.

Through hole mounting

Iron entrance doors are fixed on anchors or on pieces of steel reinforcement, with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The diameter of the fastener is selected for the existing holes. If anchors are to be used, their head must fit into the outer hole and "get stuck" in the inner one. The diameter of the reinforcement must match the diameter of the holes. In any case, holes are pre-drilled under them.

We take a puncher, a drill and an anchor. The drill is taken of the same diameter as the fasteners. Its length should be at least 30 cm. To more accurately determine how deep you need to drill, masking tape is attached to the drill. It marks a distance that is slightly more than the required depth.

The installation of fasteners from the side of the hinges begins. When drilling, it is important not to move the installed box. Drill from above first.

Install the anchor, finishing it with a hammer. To sink it to the inner edge of the box, insert a screwdriver into the slots, and tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer. Then, when the anchor is driven in, it is still tightened a few turns with a screwdriver. We check if the box has been moved during operation - we take the level and check everything.

We install the fasteners at the bottom in the same way. We also check verticals and horizontals. If the door leaf is not heavy, you can already at this stage check how correctly the box is set. To do this, they hang the doors and check how evenly they “sat down”, whether there are distortions, cracks and other troubles, how much the locks and latches match and work normally.

If the canvas is made of thick sheet steel, weighs about a hundred kilograms, two fasteners are clearly not enough. Then install all the fasteners from the side of the hinges, as well as one from the side of the lock. After installing each fastener, the verticality and horizontality of the box is checked. Then they carefully hang the canvas and check how it “walks”. If everything is fine, continue the installation of fasteners. No - you will have to remove the already installed mounts and set the frame in a new way.

We put the anchor in the door frame of the front door from below, checking the verticality of the rack

After checking, the canvas is removed again, and the already installed anchors are finally tightened. Then they put everything that is needed on the side of the loops, then on the side of the castle. When everything is finally installed, hang the door leaf in place again.

Now you need to fill the mounting gaps with foam. To install the front door with your own hands, it is better to take it with a small expansion coefficient: it is easier to work with it. In order for the polymerization of the foam to proceed normally, the cavities that will be filled are wetted with water from a spray bottle (ordinary household). Then everything is slowly filled with foam.

You need to blow out the entire width of the door frame: then it will not blow and the sound insulation will be better. When installing a door with iron, you don’t have to worry about opening the box: the rigidity of the metal is such that the expansion force of the foam is far from enough. Therefore, you can lather generously.

Only if the foam gets on the canvas, it should be removed immediately with a damp cloth. After 5 minutes, you just won't wipe it off. As long as it's wet, it comes off without a trace. Then you have to scrape, but this does not go away painlessly: traces will remain. The polymerization of the foam will end after 24 hours. Then we can assume that the installation of the front door with your own hands is hung. It remains to make slopes on the door.

Mounting the lug box

If there are welded plates on the box - lugs - the box is set up in the same way: on linings. Then it flattens out and wedged. Next, there are two options:

When installing in this way, you need to control the position of the box even more carefully: it is easy to move it from its place. If not corrected, the doors will not work well.

How to adjust the front door made of metal and plastic, read here.

Installation of the front door in a wooden house

In a wooden house, any windows and doors are not mounted directly to the wall, but through a casing or a pigtail. An okosyachka is a wooden beam that is movably attached to a log house (from a log or a beam - it doesn’t matter). It is connected by a tongue/groove connection and held by the force of elasticity. A door frame is already attached to this beam.

This is a necessary measure. After all, a wooden house is constantly changing height. For the first five years, he sits down - due to shrinkage and compaction of the landing seams. The first year, doors and windows are not installed at all: too big a change. In the second year, the movements become less pronounced, but are always present. Therefore, it is impossible to rigidly fix the doors: they can jam or bend, or they will interfere with the normal shrinkage of the log house.

To do this, cut a groove in the doorway. They make a casing from a bar in the form of the letter "T". The width of the groove should be slightly less than the thickness of the spike: to keep well. They insert it into a spike, hammering it with a sledgehammer. That's all. No other fastener.

Please note: the height of the racks is much less than the height of the opening: after installing the lintel, there should still be at least 3 cm left for the compensation gap. It is covered with mineral wool. This is also necessary so that the doors do not warp during shrinkage.

Installation of the front door in a wooden house in a section

After installing the casing, a box is attached to it. Anchors are useless here. Powerful self-tapping screws or screws are needed. Under them, it is also necessary to drill holes, but take a drill slightly smaller than the diameter. Please note: the fasteners should not reach the wall in length (this can be seen in the photo above).

This video shows how to make a casing by forming a groove in the opening.

This video shows another type of pigtail manufacturing: a spike is formed in the opening. With a chainsaw, everything turns out quickly, but this level of ownership is available to few.

Installation of the closer on the door is described here.

Installation of the front door in aerated concrete

Another building material with features is aerated concrete. It does not hold shock loads well, therefore it will not work to fix the entrance doors like a brick wall: they will simply fall out. The way out is this: to make a frame out of a metal corner, which will be held on the wall due to the stop.

At the same time, jumpers that tighten two corners are made in those places where fasteners will be located - lugs or mounting holes. And it is on these jumpers that the door will hold.

Features of installation and design of metal doors - in the video.

The second installation method is less common. It requires less time and material costs. But it is not known how reliable the front door, mounted using this technology, will stand. No data yet.

stroychik.ru

Installation of metal and fire doors in aerated concrete, drywall and sandwich panels

The topic of installing metal doors, including fire doors, in walls made of lightweight building materials (aerated concrete, drywall and sandwich panels) should be logically divided into two components. The first is about the technical feasibility of such actions, and the second is about ways to strengthen the doorway, if necessary. Further, since it is metal doors that are considered, we will analyze the technical feasibility from two points of view - burglary resistance and fire resistance of walls made of light building materials - into the openings of which these metal doors are supposed to be installed.

Burglary resistance and the condition of equal strength of the structure

When installing metal doors, property owners first of all probably think about their burglary resistance in protecting the valuables stored in these premises. Even if we are talking about the installation of simple technical doors, as inexpensive and practical, it is still necessary to evaluate the feasibility of their installation in terms of the equal strength of the entire “door-wall” structure. Exaggerating the topic, it is worth first answering the question - is it necessary to put a metal door in a cardboard house at all? Ideally, burglars should take roughly the same amount of time to either break open a door or break a significant hole in the wall to commit the theft of wealth. If the walls are noticeably weaker than the door, then it is better to consider installing cheaper wooden doors. By the way, fire doors can also be wooden, the fire resistance of which is achieved by applying appropriate fire protection agents in the form of impregnating and coating compounds.

From the point of view of burglary resistance, foam concrete walls have the greatest strength among the listed lightweight materials if their thickness is equal to or exceeds 200 mm. The use of modern mortar mixtures makes it possible to build sufficiently strong walls from autoclaved aerated concrete or slag concrete. Burglars will have to work hard with a sledgehammer to make a sufficient breach in them.

The next most durable material is sandwich panels. These are large-sized three-layer sheets, in which there is a heat-insulating layer of basalt mineral wool or polystyrene foam of self-extinguishing grades. Burglary resistance of sandwich panels is provided by external sheets of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm. To compare the strength, you can imagine how easy it is to make a hole in a two-layer fence from corrugated sheets. Although the galvanized sheets of sandwich panels themselves are relatively easy to cut with roofing scissors or a grinder, the many points of mutual fastening of the sheets will make it rather laborious to cut a large hole in such a wall through which a person can climb.

And the least resistant, or rather, completely burglary-resistant option are plasterboard walls. Drywall is quite easy to cut with a regular hacksaw, so making a hole in it is a matter of minutes. It is worth considering whether it is worth installing a metal door on such walls at all.

Fire resistance of walls made of aerated concrete, drywall and sandwich panels

If fire doors are required to be installed in light material wall openings, the fire resistance of the walls themselves should also be assessed. By analogy with burglary resistance, the “door-wall” design must have an equivalent fire resistance. Accordingly, it makes sense to install doors with a fire resistance rating that does not noticeably exceed the fire resistance of the wall itself. It is even better if the wall material is more fire resistant than the fire door. In other words, it does not make sense to spend money on a fire door with a fire resistance rating of EI60 (60 minutes) if the walls can resist fire for noticeably less time.

Aerated concrete walls have excellent fire resistance. Autoclaved cellular concrete in accordance with GOST 30244-94 “Construction materials. Flammability test methods” refers to non-combustible (NG) materials. SNiP II-2-80 5 determines that a partition made of cellular concrete with a density of 800 kg / m3 with a thickness of 75 mm has a fire resistance limit of 2.5 hours, and a thickness of 80 mm - 3 hours. Accordingly, almost any fire doors can be installed in the openings of aerated concrete walls, and their fire resistance limit will not exceed the fire resistance time of the wall itself. However, it should be noted that aerated concrete, when exposed to high temperatures above 700C, becomes covered with cracks, and at a temperature of 1000C and above, it completely loses its bearing strength. And the strength to the aerated concrete that has been in a fire does not return after the wall cools down. This means that after a fire, the aerated concrete wall should be dismantled and rebuilt.

Wall sandwich panels have high fire resistance characteristics due to filling the internal space with basalt wool or other non-combustible material. At the same time, for the construction of fire barriers, it is recommended to use sandwich panels with a thickness of at least 100 mm. Such walls have a fire resistance rating of EI150 (2.5 hours). The fire resistance of the sandwich panels used to build a particular wall should be further clarified, since different manufacturers have panels with different characteristics in their product lines.

Drywall walls also have high fire resistance characteristics. Leading drywall manufacturers, such as Knauf, have tested and certified various options for steel-framed partitions with non-combustible board infill for fire resistance. The fire resistance of a partition depends both on the number of layers of drywall on each side of the partition, and on the brand of drywall. At the same time, partitions with sheathing from ordinary KNAUF sheets (GKL) and partitions with sheathing from fire-resistant KNAUF sheets (GKLO) are distinguished. Depending on the specified properties of materials and the number of sheets of GKL (O), the fire resistance limit of plasterboard partitions on a steel frame varies from EI60 (60 minutes) to EI240 (4 hours)

Having considered the fire resistance of walls made of the listed light materials, it should be concluded that they all have high fire resistance and allow the installation of fire doors to create a reliable fire barrier.

Strengthening openings in walls made of aerated concrete, drywall and sandwich panels

Since walls made of light building materials do not allow anchors to be reliably strengthened in them when installing metal (including fire doors) doors, openings in such walls must first be strengthened. Otherwise, the heavy sash of a metal door will eventually lead either to the destruction of the opening, or, as in the case of drywall, the wall will “walk” with each opening or closing of the door. The correct construction technology is to strengthen the openings at the stage of wall construction in accordance with the design documentation.

The general rule for strengthening openings in walls made of lightweight materials is to build a load-bearing metal frame around the opening. The frame is most durable if it is attached simultaneously to the floor and ceiling, made of reinforced concrete slabs or monolithic reinforced concrete (for aerated concrete and plasterboard walls). In the case of sandwich panels, the opening frame is welded or bolted to other load-bearing parts of the metal frame of the building or structure.

According to the theory of resistance of materials, frames made of closed metal profiles (square sections are usually used to strengthen walls), as well as profiles in the form of a channel, have the highest bending strength. Although I-beam profiles also have high bending strength, they are rarely used to strengthen openings due to the inconvenience of attaching an installed door frame to them.

An opening in an aerated concrete wall is usually reinforced with the so-called vertical reinforcement, when the frame is lined with aerated concrete blocks. To make the opening frame more rigidly fixed in blocks, horizontal reinforcement can also be used. In this case, reinforcing bars are welded to the frame "sideways", which go inside the aerated concrete wall. Horizontal reinforcement can be carried out over the entire length of the aerated concrete wall with the location of reinforcing bars at different heights (every 4th or 5th row of masonry).

When strengthening drywall partitions, a frame made of durable steel profiles is mounted inside the partition, fixed to the floor and ceiling, and only then the entire partition is sewn up with drywall sheets. Most often, a tubular profile of a square section is used for the frame, or, speaking in a professional language, a bent steel closed welded profile of a square section according to GOST 30245-2003.

Since sandwich panels for creating walls are mounted on a pre-designed and assembled metal frame, frames for fastening door and window frames must already be made in this frame. If it was necessary to install a metal door "in place", then in this place it is necessary to disassemble the casing from the sandwich panels, weld the frame for the opening to the common supporting structure and then return the casing to its original place around the opening.

www.safedoors.com

Installation and fastening of windows, doors and gates in aerated concrete house

When installing windows, doors and gates in cottages, window companies must follow the standards prescribed in the relevant GOST.

Only the installers themselves will be able to reveal this topic in depth, and we will limit ourselves to the minimum dive into this issue necessary for a private person.

Installation and fastening of windows to aerated concrete

Firstly, if you don’t have small “loopholes”, but normal windows, then they should be fastened using plates with a certain step (3 plates per 2-meter window).

This is a standard, it is spelled out in GOST for window makers.

Secondly, according to GOST, the use of vapor barrier is required.

Inside the room, a vapor barrier film is glued to the mounting seam.

But keep in mind that this film has poor adhesion and there may be problems with plastering these areas in the future.

Window companies are aware of this standard and often offer to abandon it - to do it without vapor barrier in order to reduce installation costs. Do it right or save on it - it's up to you. I would do according to GOST.

Thirdly, according to the GOST, the thickness of the profile and the mandatory foaming of the assembly seams are normalized.

Now a little about the features of the installation, namely in a house made of aerated concrete.

According to GOST, plates are used not only for aerated concrete, but for any wall material, depending on the size of the window.

The only difference in installation in aerated concrete is that it is necessary to use special anchors for cellular concrete. Depending on the weight of the window, anchors for aerated concrete of the required dimensions are used.

Another important point about installing windows

It is also important to use stainless fasteners, the profile must also be either stainless or galvanized, otherwise rust will show through later.

Summarizing by windows

In the contract with the window makers, be sure to specify the installation according to GOST, the warranty period of operation, fittings details, the thickness of the plastic, the profile, the size of the anchors, etc.

To make sure you get exactly what you paid for.

Pay special attention to the use of special plates and special fasteners for cellular concrete. This is easy to check, just look during installation at the work of the installers - are there plates or not, are hardened self-tapping screws screwed in or special anchors are used?

Follow this.

Installation and fastening of doors in aerated concrete house

In fact, it's about the same story as with windows.

Be sure to use plates and special anchors for cellular concrete in accordance with GOST. Feel free to ask the installer questions - how many plates and why he decided to use it, it will be clear from his answers whether he knows the estimated load for your door or not.

Installation and fastening of the gate in the house of aerated concrete

If we fasten heavy swing gates, then ordinary fasteners do not pass through the load.

It is necessary to strengthen the fastening, and for this you can scald the frame with corners on the inside and outside, and already hang the gate on it. Thus, we strengthen the node.

In short, we take 50 - 70 corners.

From the outer and inner sides, we scald and connect with each other with a plate.

Already this design on the plates is attached to the wall. We get a hard node. Now you can attach heavy swing gates to it and are not afraid that they will vomit in the open state.

If we do not strengthen, but use even 200 anchors, then the probability that the gate will rip out is very high.

This is a rather complicated topic and, as I already wrote, they know it deeply and only the installers of windows, doors and gates themselves can clarify it. And your task is to filter normal specialists, to whom you entrust the work. I hope the nuances that I described in the article will help you with this. Good luck!

Learn more about aerated concrete and the construction of it in the training center "Gazobeton63.ru"

gazobeton63.ru

Installation of the front door in aerated concrete

Installing the front door in aerated concrete On a large opening, I want to install a metal “not armored door” with MDF overlays on the second China opening. 2. Drilling anchors at an angle to anchor from the inside with wide washers or corners, followed by plastering of anchors 3. Use of chimankers. As a lazy person, I want to try the option with chemical anchors.

Who fixed windows and doors (especially iron doors) in aerated concrete walls

Who fixed windows and doors (especially iron) in aerated concrete walls How did they fix windows and (especially iron) in walls made of (density 500).

I am very glad that on this forum people are actively discussing the construction of a house from. It is very useful for people who are only on the way to their dream)) In my opinion, you cannot fix iron in aerated concrete properly.

It is necessary to make a shell for bricks.

Self-installation of the front door

Independent entrance Preparation for installation.

Necessary materials and tools

From the tools for the entrance, it is necessary to prepare a puncher with a drill and a shovel, a water level, a measuring tape, a large hammer and a sledgehammer, a grinder, a board and an ax.

Installation of windows and doors in a house with walls made of aerated concrete blocks

Installing windows in a house with walls made of aerated concrete blocks Usually, a country builder who builds a house from autoclaved aerated concrete for the first time has a prejudice as to whether the strength of the wall material is sufficient for installing windows and.

Some who doubt the strength of aerated concrete cast concrete boxes or lay out door and window openings with brick, "as a more durable material."

Installing the entrance to aerated concrete

Installation of entrance standard sizes If a wooden door is installed, the width of which is not more than 91 cm, then the installation is carried out according to standard technology. That is, with fastening with metal anchors or plastic dowels with long self-tapping screws.

How to install the front door in aerated concrete

How is the installation of the entrance to Aerated concrete is widely used for the construction of various buildings instead of the usual brick and cinder block.

Such a material has many advantages: strength, lightness, excellent heat and sound insulation, large dimensions that speed up the construction process. But there are also some disadvantages. So, in view of the porosity of the material, the installation of the front door in aerated concrete differs from traditional technology.

KomuBeton.ru How to install a door to a house from a foam block Naturally, sooner or later, the builder of a house faces the question - how to insert it into a house from a foam block. The foam block belongs to cellular concrete.

It has many advantages: easy to process; weighs a little; its thermal conductivity is 3 times greater than brick and 8 times greater than concrete; soundproofing; vapor barrier; chemical and biological resistance, corrosion resistance.

How to correctly install the front door in aerated concrete?

How to correctly install the entrance to aerated concrete? New types of cellular concrete: gas and foam concrete are replacing the usual cinder block and brick. These materials have many advantages, but there are also disadvantages.

The instruction for the device differs from the traditional one, since cellular concrete is porous.

When ordering windows or doors, remember that the dimensions of the structure must be 1 centimeter less than the opening.

Installation of metal doors. Window device

Preparatory activities
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