There are two types of sprayers: manual and electric. They are classified according to various criteria, such as:

  • pressure during the operation of the sprayer - high or low;
  • purpose of the device - professional or semi-professional;
  • the principle of operation of the mechanism - electric or manual;
  • paint supply method - from the lower or upper tank, by means of forced pumping or using airless spraying.

To work with an airbrush at home, it is better to purchase an electrical device that allows you to work from the mains. It is distinguished by its practicality and low cost.

Often, users choose pneumatic type devices. If we consider the device of the spray gun, then it consists of a base with valves - forcing and suction, a pump, a fishing rod, a cover, a pressure hose, a hose with a filter for suction.

The atomizer circuit is quite simple, any user will understand it. It is not recommended to use latex and acrylic paints for electric spray guns, as there are special devices for their use.

The principle of operation of the sprayer

All spray guns have a similar principle of operation. A jet of air passes through the nozzle and crushes the paint or other consumables into tiny particles.

Before starting work with the spray gun, you must first prepare the surface to be treated. It requires thorough cleaning from dirt, grease stains, dust. If there are defects on the surface in the form of chips, scratches, cracks, then it must be sanded and primed.

It is also necessary to correctly set up the spray gun, that is, adjust parameters such as air pressure, paint supply, torch width.

The quality of the mechanism and the quality of the surface finish depend not only on the settings, but also on the correct dilution of the finishing liquid. To do this, the substance is mixed with the activator specified in the instructions for the device, in strict proportions. Next, a solvent is added to the resulting mixture. Then the operation of the device is checked, as well as the evenness of the applied finishing layer.

How to adjust the spray gun?

When everything necessary for work is prepared, the device is assembled, the consumable liquid is mixed, it is necessary to adjust the spray gun for its good operation. It should be noted that the finishing agent should not be very viscous so that the nozzle does not clog.

The fan width setting depends on the surface to be treated. If it is large in area, then it is worth making the maximum width of the torch. If you need a small flame width, then you need to take into account the pressure of the air jet.

To regulate the supply of paint, the hole through which it is supplied is partially closed or completely opened.

For your convenience, we provide an interesting video of setting up and adjusting the spray gun.

After adjusting the supply of the consumable, the regulation of the air jet is adjusted. To do this, you need to prepare a sheet of drawing paper and fix it vertically. The air supply is adjusted differently depending on the type of consumable.

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Overview and technical characteristics of the Wester FPG-40 pneumatic spray gun

If you decide to paint the car yourself, you can not do without a spray gun. The first thing you need to understand for yourself when starting work is the rules for setting up an airbrush for painting a car. That is, it is not enough to purchase a tool, you also need to know how it functions, if you want the paint to lay down in an even, smooth layer, you must carefully prepare the device for work. Preparation includes four main stages, in any case it is impossible to neglect any of them if the master wants to achieve a high-quality result. To achieve this, starting painting, you need to fulfill several prerequisites:

  • prepare paint for work;
  • adjust the required size of the torch;
  • create optimal air pressure for painting;
  • adjust the ink supply settings correctly.

If the above points are done properly, there will be no problems: the painted surface of the car will become smooth and even. Otherwise, bumps and streaks cannot be avoided. Yes, and dry such a coating will be twice as long. So, first things first.

Getting ready to paint

To work, you need a plastic container or a regular ruler. On the packaging of the paint, the manufacturer usually indicates the proportions that must be observed when diluting it. To accurately maintain proportions when mixing paint with an activator, a ruler is needed. You can replace it with a plastic container, with a pre-applied graduation, with which you can measure the car paint and hardener.

In order for the spray to be of high quality, it is necessary to add a certain dose of solvent to the already prepared composition. The problem is that the manufacturer does not always indicate the recommended ratio of paint and thinner on the packaging. Masters with experience usually add thinner little by little, watching the resulting consistency. Beginners are advised to find a coloring matter with the divorce parameters indicated on the package. For example, the inscription on the bank 2 x 1 + 10% means that 1/10 of the total amount of solvent should be added to the paint diluted with an activator in a ratio of 2: 1.

To create protection from external influences or the “metallic” effect, two layers of coating are applied to the surface of the car: the first is a coloring matter, the second is acrylic varnish. The varnish is diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. In this case, there is no need to activate the paint: drying is provided by the solvent added to it.

Adjust the size of the torch in the spray gun

First of all, you should adjust the optimal width of the spray gun torch. It depends directly on the surface area that needs to be painted. If the car or part is completely covered with paint, the maximum width is set.

When processing a small area, the width of the torch is chosen small, having previously tested the quality of spraying on a Whatman paper. This will allow the paint to be applied evenly and quickly. It must be remembered that, by reducing the width of the torch, it is necessary to simultaneously reduce the air pressure.

Setting the air pressure

Selecting the optimal pressure supply is not easy. There are many parameters on which it depends: the model of the spray gun, the type of paint, the viscosity index. On whatman paper from a distance of 25-30 cm in a horizontal position, several test bursts are made with simultaneous adjustment of air pressure. Then the resulting prints are carefully examined:

  • drops with streaks, large - insufficient pressure;
  • the outlines of the figure eight indicate too high pressure;
  • a print in the form of a pear, banana, crescent indicates a malfunction of the device or a clogged nozzle or air cap;
  • the ideal shape is an elongated beautiful torch without streaks and drops.

Depending on the model of the device, the pressure regulator can be built into the handle or have a removable design. If the regulator is removable, it opens at the junction of the hose with the receiver. If the regulator is built-in, the pressure is changed when the trigger is pressed.

Ink setting

After the width of the torch and the air pressure are set, adjust the paint supply. The adjusting screw screwed up to the stop is released 2 turns. When adjusting, it is not recommended to give a large feed, it is better to do this gradually during operation. Otherwise, you can waste a lot of paint and ruin the surface of the car.

The adjusting screw acts as a stop for the needle, which partially covers the ink inlet. Thus, it is convenient for the master to adjust the paint supply by opening the screw and pulling the trigger. Operate with only the force of pressure on the trigger.

Let's find out how the spray gun is set up so that the layer of the coating to be laid is as even as possible. After all, it doesn’t matter how high-tech and expensive a sprayer you have purchased, without the correct tool setting, the quality of paint work will be unsatisfactory.

However, before setting up the spray gun, let's try to figure out what this device is.

Choice of atomizer

There are a wide range of spray coating devices on the market. The difference between the presented modifications lies both in price and in the principle of applying paint.

The work of paint sprayers is carried out in two stages:

  • the paint is broken into tiny fragments;
  • the shape of a torch is formed.

In the photo - types of torch in accordance with the type of spray gun

All atomizers on the market, according to the operating parameters, can be divided into three main categories:

  • Conventional systems (CONV) are characterized by high pressure in the spray head up to 3 bar.
  • High volume and low pressure devices (HVLP) up to 0.7 bar.
  • Low volume and low pressure devices (LVLP) up to 1.2 bar.

Regardless of the design of the spray gun, a torch of compressed air and paint materials is formed in the spray head. Leaving the spray head, the mixture in the form of a torch is distributed over a certain distance, and when it hits the surface, it forms a paint coating.

For domestic use, it is advisable to use large-volume and low-pressure spray guns, as they are more versatile in terms of the paint used and their price is more affordable compared to the cost compared to devices and other designs.

Preparing the test room

Before you properly set up the spray gun, you need to prepare the optimal conditions for testing.

It is advisable to experiment with applying paintwork materials in a workshop or garage, having previously freed the room from various things and objects within a radius of 2 meters. We will try spraying parameters on a vertical plane, for example, on a wall or on a garage door.

In order not to spoil the surface in vain, you can fix some unnecessary material measuring 2 by 1 meter on the wall or on the gate with your own hands. It doesn’t matter if it’s old paper or plastic wrap - everything will do, because we don’t experiment with color, but with hiding power.

So, the conditions for test staining are ready, let's start adjusting.

Spray gun device

Proper setting of the spray gun is important for fast and high-quality painting of the car. This process should be approached comprehensively, since all stages of equipment adjustment are interconnected.

Paints and varnishes. Click on the photo to enlarge.

So, before you start painting the car, you will need to set up 4 basic parameters:

  • prepare consumables by mixing the selected paint and varnish material or primer with solvents, hardeners, accelerators and other activators as indicated on the package;
  • adjust the size and shape of the torch;
  • set the required pressure level;
  • determine the intensity of the ink supply.

How to adjust each of the four parameters so that the auto spray gun sprays the paint evenly, without interruptions in the supply and the formation of runs and smudges? Let's move on to a more detailed description of the process.

Stage one: preparation of consumables

Usually, to bring the primer, paint or varnish into working condition, they require the addition of a solvent and various activators that come with the kit (accelerators, hardeners, etc.). Experienced painters allow themselves to dilute paintwork materials “by eye”, but if you are an ordinary car owner and do not have sufficient experience in this area, it is better to act in strict accordance with the instructions for using the material. For example, if the car paint package says that the activator is added in a 2x1 ratio, then one part of the activator should be added to two parts of the paint. Any plastic measuring container or an ordinary wooden ruler will be indispensable here. In the absence of such, you can independently apply a scale to the container. The main thing is that the marks are applied evenly.

In addition to the activator, the paint may require thinning with a solvent. So, marking 2x1 + 10% means that 2 parts of the paint account for 1 part of the activator and a solvent in the amount of 10% of the total volume of the working solution.

If you plan to paint "under the metallic", there is no need to activate the paint: it will dry under the action of the evaporating solvent. In this case, it is more important to properly dilute the acrylic varnish, as it acts as a top coat that protects the paint layer.

Incorrectly selected paint viscosity will make the process of painting a car more time-consuming and labor-intensive, and will also negatively affect the quality of the coating: if you use a composition that is too liquid, it will not adhere well to the surface and form unsightly smudges, and too thick paint or varnish after drying will turn into a rough "shagreen".

Stage two: setting up the spray gun itself

The main parts of the spray gun, which play an important role in painting a car, include:


So, we have three regulators, each of which allows you to adjust one or another parameter. After the filtered paint is poured into the tank, we find a suitable surface (a clean sheet of paper will do) and begin to test the spray gun.

Torch size and shape

How to adjust the width of the torch that forms the spray gun, ejecting paint from the nozzle? When painting a small area on the car body, set the width to small to ensure spot spraying. When painting large surfaces, it is more convenient to work with a wide torch: the process will go faster and the coating will be more uniform.

Important: when reducing the size of the torch, it is necessary to reduce the air supply in parallel.

Spray booth pressure

The pressure in the spray gun is set purely individually and depends both on the model of equipment and on the type of paintwork material used for painting, and its viscosity. So, we hold the spray gun horizontally at a distance of 25-30 cm from the surface, make several short bursts of paint and evaluate the result:


The air supply regulator can be removable and built-in. In the first case, to adjust the pressure, fully open the regulator at the point where the receiver connects to the hose. In the second case, the pressure must be changed when the trigger is pressed, so that at the beginning of spraying there are no sudden jumps in the air supply.

Ink supply level

Adjusting the level of paint supply from the spray gun for painting cars is carried out as follows: we start with a low supply so as not to waste a lot of paint and not to pollute the spray booth too much. Turn the adjusting screw all the way in, then loosen it a few turns. The tighter the screw, the smaller the ink hole opens in the needle. Thus, by gradually loosening the regulator and pressing the trigger with different strengths, you can achieve the desired level of supply of the consumable.

What does the shape of the torch say about the malfunctions of the spray gun?

So, ideally, the torch should leave an imprint of the correct rounded shape with a uniform application of paint without sharp transitions, large drops and smudges. Any deviation from the norm indicates an incorrect setting of the spray gun or a malfunction of one of its parts. Do not neglect testing the torch on a test surface, otherwise it may adversely affect the quality of the painting and the cost of the paintwork material.


  • too much paint in the tank;
  • you hold the spray gun at a strong inclination;
  • clogged air holes or channel supplying paint to the nozzle;
  • the nozzle is poorly fixed or defective;
  • The needle adjusting screw is loose or the needle is clogged with dried ink particles.

Recommendations for the operation of a spray gun for painting a car

Spray gun parts in direct contact with paint materials should be cleaned with a solvent after each use.

Today we will talk about a rather interesting topic, namely: how to set up spray guns.

To begin with, there are two main types of spray guns: HVLP and LVLP. The first of them (High Volume Low Pressure) suggests the master to use a large volume and low air pressure, while the second - Low Volume Low Pressure, which means "small volume and low pressure". Mostly pistols of the first category are used, but, regardless of which device is used, the settings are almost the same.

The main thing to pay attention to during setup:

Air supply - from below;

The supply of the mixture, namely the paint itself;

Torch width adjustment, in particular from above;

Or from below.

Initially, in the pistol, all indicators must be set to “zero”.

Open air pressure.

You don’t need to set too much, the average consumption is 2 atmospheres.

After that, open the torch.

If you feel that there is not enough air, you need to add a little more.

And at the end, paint is gradually added.

At the same time, the torch should be made a little wider.

In general, a good torch should be oval and roughly the following dimensions.

A low-quality torch has different sizes on two opposite sides, as well as smudges.

At the same time, if you completely remove the torch, you will get a dot painting, while you will also need to remove the paint.

This option is suitable if you need to paint the cavities, neatly and beautifully, in different places.

For optimal painting with a “normal” torch, it is desirable that each subsequent stroke half overlap the next. This painting option is called "two layers".

The nozzle to the surface to be painted should be approximately the distance of the palm of your hand with your thumb outstretched.

If you put the gun closer to the surface to be painted, smudges are possible; if the distance is large, there will be poor overlap, resulting in a not very presentable view. Therefore, it is desirable to perform the process rhythmically and at the same distance.

As an experiment, let's try to paint a detail from a jeep car, which is put on the body and it turns out to be a station wagon.

In our case, it was necessary to make piping along the edges, and some parts were supplemented with fiberglass elements, so in the process of painting we will have to improvise a little.

After setting up the gun, we proceed to the painting process.

You need to start with the opening, the first coat of paint will use approximately 70%. If there is not enough paint, it can be added, but not too much.

Between applying layers, you need to pause for at least five minutes so that the paint is well “soaked”. As soon as the metallic begins to acquire a matte color, this will mean that it has already dried.

The second coat should be applied in a double coat manner so that the surface is wet but free of streaks.

Do not forget about the need for periodic cleaning of the filter.

After the second layer dries, you need to make a little less pressure so that the paint flies out of the gun in grains.

The distance will need to be increased and the surface covered in order to level the individual sections. This final step is called the "effect layer".

It must be applied with even movements so that a uniform coating is obtained everywhere.

The same goes for the polish settings. You will need:

More open feed;

Open the torch to the maximum;

Adjust the feed a little more than 2 atmospheres.

It is immediately clear that the torch from the varnish is much wider, so you will need to apply the varnish much faster and more often.

After that, we expose and apply approximately 70% varnish, as in the case of paint. If wet varnish is applied immediately, it can lift the primer or old, bad paint. Therefore, the first step is to apply such a “foggy” layer, which will help eliminate all sorts of minor troubles, in particular, a solvent and a hardener will come out between such droplets.

At the end of the painting, you need to rinse the gun, for which, before starting cleaning, you will need to pour out all the varnish. It is better to rinse at least twice, for this you should pour 646 solvent into it, close the lid and shake it well. After that, you need to drain the excess liquid. At the very end, you need to unscrew the spout and leave it in the solvent so that it does not dry out.

In the gun itself, you need to leave a little solvent so that nothing inside dries out. The main thing is that after the end of the work there are no gaps left, because it is quite difficult to paint over them.