A power tool chuck is actually a consumable item. Replacing it does not happen often, but sooner or later the home master is faced with the question: how to replace it?
To understand the drilling process, let’s get acquainted with the types of chucks and their fastening mechanisms.
Drill chucks with different mounting methods
Cam type
Key
The clamping mechanism is operated by a bevel gear wrench, hence the name. When turning the outer coupling, the movable cams, using a threaded connection, converge to the center and clamp the drill. The most common type. Holds the bit perfectly and allows drilling in any direction of rotation. The disadvantage is that the key must always be at hand.
IMPORTANT! When replacing a drill using a wrench, the power tool must be disconnected from the mains.
Threaded (second name - keyless)
The cams close due to the pressure of a movable stop located at the base of the mechanism. The cartridge body is simply screwed onto the stop connected to the shaft. Easy to use, but has a number of disadvantages. Low clamping force and one drilling direction.
Quick-release
The operating principle is the same as the key one. Only the outer coupling can be turned by hand. There are two types.
Single coupling
One hand is enough to change the drill. The shaft is held by friction in the gearbox, or blocked by a special device.
Double coupling
You need to hold the lower coupling with one hand while simultaneously rotating the upper coupling with the other hand. Thanks to this, the fixation of the drill is more durable.
Such cases can be made of plastic or metal. It all depends on the conditions under which the drill is used.
This type of chuck is commonly called self-clamping. Many craftsmen, using a drill with a speed controller, simply hold the chuck clutch with their hand while simultaneously pressing the start button of the power tool. In this case, the clamping mechanism is fixed as if by itself.
IMPORTANT! Clamping the key chuck while holding it with your hand is dangerous.
Replacing a drill or other attachment in such chucks is quick, but the clamping force is low. Therefore, when working with metal or stone workpieces, it is better to use a drill with a key mechanism.
Type SDS
Chucks of this type are rarely used in conventional drills. The main application is rotary hammers.
SDS chuck is used in rotary hammers
The operating principle is ball/collet. For fixation, a special drill is required, which, due to the special shape of the leg, is part of the mechanism.
Changing the nozzle is done with one hand. It is enough to pull the coupling towards you, the clamp opens and you can change the drill. The disadvantage is the lack of rigid fixation of the nozzle. There is longitudinal play.
You have to remove the chuck from the electric drill to clean or replace it. The dismantling process itself is simple, and sometimes difficulties that arise can be solved. Our guide clearly shows how to properly remove the chuck from a drill with your own hands.
Methods for attaching cartridges
Hand drills use two types of drill chuck mounting:
- Morse taper - a conical shaft shank and a corresponding hole in the chuck.
- Threaded fastening - a thread on a shaft onto which the cartridge is screwed like a nut.
Take a close look at the metal rod between the body and the cartridge. In the case of a threaded fit, the slots for the open-end wrench are usually visible, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.
The method of fastening is also indicated by the markings stamped on the cartridge:
- The Morse cone is designated by the abbreviation B10, B12, etc. (B is the cone, the number is the maximum drill size).
- The marking of the threaded cartridge contains the designation of the type and diameter of the thread: M13 (metric by 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (inch by half inch).
Removing the threaded cartridge
For drills with a reverse function, the drill chuck is additionally secured with a locking screw, visible through the open jaws.
The slots on the screw head can be cross-shaped, hexagonal or even star-shaped. Prepare the required screwdriver, wrench or bit. Use a tool with complete splines that fit exactly.
Measure the size of the wrench space on the drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a mid-range tool or 17 mm for a more powerful device.
Prepare an open-end wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from a bicycle repair kit or grind off the edges of a regular key using sandpaper.
Hold the drill shaft with a wrench and try using a screwdriver to unscrew the screw clockwise (left-hand thread).
Try not to tear off the splines.
If the thread does not work, secure the electric drill chuck in a vice and hit the screw head several times with a hammer through a steel rod.
Now the thread will become more pliable and the screw will come loose.
Difficulties may arise. Try increasing the leverage by holding a hex wrench in the chuck.
As a last resort, use a vice, placing a drill in it as in the photo below.
Move the cartridge from its place by striking the driver secured through the square head.
This method makes it possible to unscrew fairly strongly stuck cartridges.
After cleaning, reinstall the chuck in reverse order, keeping in mind the different thread directions.
Apply a little paint to the threads before tightening the locking screw.
Specifics of cone fastening
In modern hand-held electric drills, the Morse taper is rarely found. Such models are equipped with special pullers, and the dismantling process is displayed in the technical description.
In old Soviet drills, the design of the gearbox made it possible to remove the chuck using rather crude methods. One could try to separate the conical surfaces with a wedge-shaped object, lightly knocking it from different sides.
Another option was to take the drill with one hand with the chuck facing down, and with the other to apply light blows to the end with a hammer. If that didn’t help, we lubricated the landing site with a penetrating compound (kerosene or WD-40), let it sit for several hours, and tried to knock the cartridge off again.
This method can be used if the shaft bearing is installed inside the housing. For most drills used today, this method is unacceptable, as it can lead to damage to the bearings or gearbox.
When selecting a new chuck, pay attention to the type of fastening, bore diameter and the ability to operate in impact mode, if your drill has this option.
During construction and repair work, a drill is often used. When working intensively with this tool, the bit or drill often becomes loose or falls out. In most cases, the situation can be corrected by tightening the cartridge. If this does not solve the problem and the drill continues to fall out, the drill chuck needs to be replaced or repaired.
Types of cartridge
One of the main parts found in the design of a drill, hammer drill or screwdriver is the chuck. The drill, bit and other working devices are mounted in it between several parts called cams. Based on the design of the cam mechanism, the drill chuck can be a quick-release chuck or a key chuck. In the first type, the drill is fixed manually after applying a little force.
The key mechanism requires the use of a special key. In the body of such a cartridge there is:
- Collet. Hardened cylindrical bushing with a cavity inside.
- Adjustment clip. It is attached to the outside of the collet and can rotate.
On one edge of the sleeve there are steel petals that allow you to install a drill, reamer, or tap. The rotating holder makes them move along the guides. Depending on the direction of movement, the petals either come closer or move away from each other, clamping or releasing the device installed in them. To ensure the most rigid fixation of the drill, a special key or coupling is used.
Reasons for replacement
The main function of the clamping mechanism is to ensure maximum precision in the hole drilling process. As the drill is used, the seats and steel jaws wear out. The following signs indicate this:
- The cartridge flies off the shaft.
- The axis of rotation shifts during drilling.
- The drill does not lock or cannot be removed.
Each of these situations is unsafe, so if it occurs, you should stop working with the drill and repair or change the chuck.
The drill has a special threaded short-pitch fastening that holds the clamping mechanism. In addition to it is a screw with a left-hand thread, located at the outer end of the shaft and acting as a control clamp. To securely fasten parts when assembling drills in production, all connections are treated with a sealing compound, which serves as an adhesive layer and protects the metal from corrosion and oxidation after exposure to moisture. This must be taken into account before disassembling the drill chuck.
Do-it-yourself dismantling
To repair or replace a part, it is necessary to correctly remove it from the structure. To do this, you will need to move the cam clamps apart (as far as possible) and unscrew the main fastening screw. Due to the action of centrifugal force or due to the lack of sealant on the thread, it can be very securely fixed in the mounting hole, so great effort will be required during the dismantling process.
This screw has a Phillips-shaped slot, so disassembly is best done using a similar type of screwdriver. Using a mechanical impact screwdriver may break the slots. In this case, additional replacement of the gearbox shaft will be required. To remove the chuck from the thread, you must prevent the shaft from rotating. To do this, the shaft should be kept stationary while twisting. using an adjustable wrench.
Another method of securing is to manually hold the gears from turning. To do this, you will first need to remove the gearbox housing. If the chuck is of a key type, then to stabilize the shaft it will be enough to insert the key into the hole and set it motionless.
Some drill models use a Morse taper rather than a thread for connection. In this case, after unscrewing the mounting screw, you will need to position the drill vertically using a vice so that the chuck is at the bottom. Then knock it out of the mounting hole using a rubber or wooden mallet. In this case, be sure to use an open-end wrench as a gasket. You should hit it carefully to avoid damaging the body and main parts of the drill.
Mechanism repair
Once the clamping part is removed from the drill, it is necessary to determine whether it can be repaired. If molded plastic and rolled metal were used for its manufacture, its disassembly will lead to a violation of the basic properties of the materials and dynamic characteristics. It will be impossible to use such a mechanism in the future. If the cartridge turns out to be collapsible, you can try to repair it yourself. The recovery process will depend on the nature of the problem.
Vibration during drilling or slipping off the axis indicates that the fastening screw has broken. It can occur due to sudden impacts or lateral loads. To solve the problem, you will have to drill out the broken fastener and replace it with a new one.
Another common problem- jamming of the clamping jaws - can happen due to the use of drills with a diameter that is too large and does not match the size of the hole in the chuck. Excessive use of lubricant can also lead to this. Dust and debris generated during drilling in large quantities stick to the lubricant and severely clog the mechanism.
Thorough cleaning of the parts will correct the situation. However, the use of a cleaned cartridge will be possible if the threads inside it are intact. Otherwise, the part will need to be replaced. To avoid clogging of the cam structure in the future, the use of a special protection that fits onto the drill and prevents dust from getting inside will help.
Reassembling the structure after completing the repair should be done in the reverse order. In this case, special attention must be paid to how reliably the leading element is fixed in the conical recess of the cartridge. Final fixation can be carried out if their longitudinal axes completely coincide.
The joints between parts must be treated with sealant. You can use the drill after it is completely dry. This will take about 10-12 hours.
If the problem does not disappear during operation of the device, this means that the repair or installation was carried out with errors. To eliminate them, you will have to dismantle the device again.
An electric drill is an indispensable tool attribute of both the home craftsman and the professional. Without this tool, it is difficult to carry out any work related to the production of something, as well as installation, dismantling, and so on.
Breakdown of a drill, even of a famous brand, eventually happens. And one of the most common failures of this power tool is the failure of the chuck: both the key and the self-clamping one.
Sooner or later, any part, assembly or any mechanism becomes unusable.
In modern drills, such as Makita, Interskol, Bosch, and so on, the drill and other cutting tools, as well as all kinds of attachments, are fastened using a cam-type device . The cam mechanism consists of 3 or 4 cams, through which the tool is held in the drill chuck. If the device is quick-clamping, then the mechanism is tightened by hand, and if it is a key device, it is tightened with a special key.
There are also collet devices, but they are more applicable in metalworking production. They hold all kinds of tools needed for work.
Reasons for replacement:
- Runout during rotation. This indicates wear on the cams or front shaft bearings.
- Rotation on the shaft. The reason is damage to the thread, if the chuck is threaded, or wear of the tool cone.
In both cases it needs to be replaced.
Beating is a harmful and unsafe phenomenon, it can be characterized as follows:
- The cutting tool does not hold well in the drill, or any equipment.
- Drills jam (in the case when the cone is worn out).
- The holes are of irregular shape.
- The drill shanks wear out.
How to remove a chuck from an electric drill
The chuck can be attached to the spindle as follows:
- Cone mount. When a Morse taper (instrumental taper) is used. In this case, the shaft is made in the form of a cone, well polished and minimal effort is required to fit it. Example of marking: B10, where B is the symbol of the cone, and the number 10 is the diameter of the cutting tool shank. This type of fastening is most often found in screwdrivers.
- Threaded fastening. Threads can be metric or inch. If the M13 marking is stamped on the cartridge body, then the thread is metric, 13 mm. If it is inch - UNF indicating a diameter of ½ inch.
However, in order to protect the user 100%, the manufacturer of imported drills also fixes the chuck with a screw, which serves as a stopper and securely fastens it to the shaft.
The screw has a left-hand thread, and very often, when a drill is repaired by inexperienced people, the slot on the screw for the screwdriver is torn off out of ignorance, believing that it has a standard right-hand thread - so you need to unscrew it clockwise.
Knowing the design features of your own drill, removing the chuck does not seem to be a big problem.
To change this element You need to prepare the following tools:
- Pipe wrench No. 2.
- Medium sized hammer. Approximately 400−500 gr.
- Spanners.
- Vernier caliper No. 1, 2 or 3.
- A screwdriver with the required blade shape and section.
- Personal or velvet file.
- Sandpaper.
This list shows the minimum set of tools. It is very possible that during the work you will need something additional.
Threaded connection
Procedure for dismantling:
Having secured the part of the equipment on which the cams are held with a pipe (gas) wrench No. 2, you need to rotate the shaft. The cartridge should unscrew easily after such “persistent” intervention.
Connection with a tool cone: dismantling step by step
Such dismantling is carried out using a hammer and a drift made of non-ferrous metal: brass, bronze, aluminum, copper. However, hammers of this type are still found.
Soft metal will not cause damage to the equipment in the form of nicks and deformations.
You need to do the following:
- Hold the drill with the handle up.
- Gently tap the back of the cartridge around the entire circumference with a hammer.
- After the device is dismantled, you need to clean the cone with fine sandpaper. Remove large nicks, if any, using a file.
- The new cartridge is inserted into its regular place and fixed with a blow from a wooden hammer (mallet).
For old drills made during the Soviet period, we can use another method. In them, on the shaft, between the tool body and the chuck, there is a fairly large gap, and there are flats on the shaft.
Locksmiths, as a rule, acted as follows:
- We inserted the key into these grooves.
- The clamping tool was dismantled by hitting the open-end wrench with a hammer.
The method, of course, is not the safest, given that the key can fly off along a trajectory unplanned by the locksmith and cause injury. There is also a type of drill where a slot is made in the body into which a wedge is inserted to knock out the chuck. Such drills may have two cones: one in the chuck and the other in the drill. These instruments are impressive in size and weight.
Taper drills are considered more accurate in critical drilling because the Morse taper is manufactured to a high degree of precision.
In addition, the conical chuck can be removed with a puller, since each such drill, which does not even have a threaded hole for a locking screw, has a through hole. And if you use a puller with a central pin and rest it against this hole, then by securing it to its counterpart, which has hooks in the form of powerful hooks, you can also remove the firmly attached cartridge. These pullers are used to remove, for example, bearings.
Replacement for drill Interskol
The Interskol drill is very comfortable and has an ergonomic handle. Low price is also a common reason for buyers to choose it.
does not pose any particular problems:
You cannot hit the chuck itself with a hammer: you can not only break it, but also deform the spindle. This will lead to the need to disassemble the entire drill and repair it in a specialized workshop.
On some models of drills of this brand, the spindle (axis) on which the chuck is mounted has special grooves (flat) for an open-end wrench. This allows you to securely fix the axle before unscrewing.
If there are no grooves, and the method of hitting the hex key did not help, it is best to partially disassemble the drill by unscrewing all the screws and removing the cover of the tool body.
You can fix the shaft as follows:
- Hold the large gear of the gearbox and the fan impeller with your palm. It is, of course, better to work with durable gloves.
- Unscrew the equipment.
After removing the old tool, installing the new unit must be done in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate the threads of the spindle and screw.
It is extremely undesirable to use Litol type lubricants, since when the next replacement comes, the difficulties will be even greater than if the threads were not lubricated at all. This should be done with graphite lubricant or simply machine oil.
How to remove the keyless chuck
This type of equipment was invented by Bosch. These types of devices are widely used in many drills from Bosch, Makita, Hitachi, as well as in screwdrivers. They allow you to change drill bits easily and without much effort, which is especially convenient when working with a large number of drills.
You will need:
- Phillips screwdriver or straight.
- Hexagonal L-shaped key.
- Hammer.
- You need to unscrew the locking screw. Screws come in different screwdriver sizes.
- Clamp the hex key into the chuck with the short side.
- The drill or screwdriver must be placed on the edge of the table (workbench), so that the device does not lie on the table.
- Using a hammer, apply a sharp blow to the unclamped edge of the hexagon. Direction is counterclockwise.
Step-by-step instructions for analysis
Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble it for the following reasons:
- Severe blockage.
- The cartridge is jammed.
- Cam wear.
Practice shows that the simplest and most common method of disassembly can be carried out using a hammer drill.
Step-by-step instruction:
- Remove the boot from the hammer drill.
- We insert a small adapter.
- We push the hammer drill's cams inward, expanding the chuck to the maximum.
- Between the cartridge and the wall we place some kind of shock-absorbing material, a piece of structured polystyrene, for example, or rubber.
- We press the hammer drill together with the disassembled chuck and shock absorber against the wall.
- Turn on the hammer drill, putting it in impact mode.
- After a few seconds, the cartridge parts will be untwisted, that is, the cartridge will be disassembled.
- Now you should remove the cams and perform a visual inspection.
If a drill was used to drill into walls, then there is a high probability that dust, cement, small particles of brick, and so on will be present inside the equipment. It is necessary to remove all debris and, if necessary, wash the parts with kerosene. Then, after wiping the parts, lubricate them with grease.
It is important not to swap the cams. In order to avoid this, you should use markings, signing each of them, as well as the seats.
- We push our fists forward.
- We install a nut (consists of two crackers), with which you can use a wrench to unscrew and screw the cartridge into place.
- We hide the cams inside the device by unscrewing it.
- We install the cartridge clip in place.
- We press in the clip. This can be done in various ways, for example using a lathe. In this case, the front part of the equipment is clamped into the machine chuck, and the rear part is pressed by the tailstock. A simpler “home” method is as follows: take a massive metal plate, on which the disassembled equipment is placed. A thick washer made of non-ferrous metal is placed on its upper part. Applying light blows to the washer with a hammer, press the clip into place.
The unit is suitable for further use.
Frequent use of a drill, both for professional and household purposes, entails wear and tear on some of its parts. In particular, the chuck wears out, resulting in problems such as drills, bits, and beaters falling out during operation. As a result, you have to periodically tighten the chuck to avoid injury during the working process. This situation can be corrected by removing and replacing the cartridge, but we will learn how to do this from this material.
All drills, screwdrivers and hammer drills for securing working parts are equipped with chucks, the operating principle of which is based on a cam mechanism. Bits, drills and other auxiliary devices are fixed in the chuck by clamping them between three and sometimes four connecting cams. The cams are a cone-shaped structure that moves only in the longitudinal direction when the adjusting special sleeve is turned. There are two types of cartridges:
— key;
- quick-release or manual.
Key chucks secure the working tool by using a special key, but on quick-release drills, manual effort is sufficient to secure the working attachments. Depending on the quality of production of the drill, as well as the frequency of its use, the service life of the chuck depends. The jaws wear out, so the chuck is not able to fix the working attachments. The jaws cannot be repaired, so the need to remove the chuck is to replace the worn part and thereby revive the drill.
Key chuck for a drill with a special key
In rare cases, the chuck is removed from the tool when a drill or bit gets stuck in it. Rotating the chuck relative to the tool shaft is also a negative consequence, which can only be eliminated by unscrewing the chuck and replacing it with a new one. Both quick-release chucks, in which the jaws have a shorter service life, and key chucks, which differ from the former in the maximum tightening force of the working attachments, must be replaced. Impact drills are equipped only with key drums, since the fixation of the working tool on them is much more reliable.
Keyless chuck for drill
What tool will you need?
To carry out work to dismantle the chuck, replace it, as well as to remove a jammed drill, you will need to make sure that you have the following necessary tools:
1) Vise and pliers.
2) Hammer and mallet.
3) Wrench and pipe wrench.
4) Phillips screwdriver.
As you can see, every man has such tools in his garage, so you can remove and replace the drill chuck with your own hands.
Removing the drill from the jammed chuck + (Video)
If you are faced with the problem of a drill being jammed, then not in all cases you will need to dismantle the chuck to remove it. When the drill is jammed in the chuck, it can be removed by using a vice.
The drill must be clamped in a vice in a horizontal position. The drill body also needs to be fixed so that it is stationary. The surface of the cartridge and the sleeve must first be lightly tapped with a hammer, and then struck hard. It is important to strike the sleeve in the direction of the tangent plane. The hammer continues until the drill is released from its engagement with the chuck.
If using a hammer you cannot free the drill and unscrew the jaws, then you can use a gas wrench. The drill body and the jammed drill are fixed in a vice, and a gas or pipe wrench is used to turn the chuck in a clockwise direction. You can also use two pipe wrenches, clamping the drill shaft with one tool, and trying to rotate the clamping element with the second.
Fastenings: what they are like + (Video)
The clamping mechanism is attached to the drill shaft using the following methods:
- threaded connection;
- conical connection.
The design of a threaded connection often uses an additional locking screw, shown in the photo below. With its help, reliable fixation of the cartridge is ensured.
Chuck, key and locking screw for threaded connection
The threaded connection is ensured by identical threads on the tool shaft and in the channel of the clamping mechanism. The type of thread used in a given connection plays a significant role, and they can be metric or inch. The thread used on a drill is designated using a special abbreviation, which looks like this:
"1.5-15 M13x1.2"
The abbreviation stands for the following:
If the tool uses inch thread markings, the abbreviation is designated UNF. Modern drill models use inch threads, since the choice of clamping mechanisms with inch threads is much wider.
To securely fasten the clamping mechanism, the shaft is equipped with a locking screw, which has a left-hand thread. Therefore, unscrewing the screw to remove the cartridge is carried out in a clockwise direction.
A less common method is to secure the cartridge using a clamping mechanism based on the use of a Morse taper. In this case, the shaft is a cone shape and the clamping mechanism is equipped with a similar shape in the internal channel. The fastening of the mechanism occurs under the influence of forceful mounting of the device onto the structure of the shaft of the electric motor of the tool. Such mechanisms are marked using the following abbreviations: B10, B12, B18 etc..
Key chuck for drill with cone connection (marking)
The letter designation indicates the marking of the cone, and the digital designation indicates the diameter of the tail of the tool. The conical connection has the following appearance, shown in the photo below.
Cone Connectors for Chucks
The conical fastening method is more reliable, since it can withstand greater force loads than the first connection option. In addition, it is easy to use: it is easy to remove and just as easy to put on the shaft.
Finding out how to secure the cartridge
In order to find out how the chuck is secured to the drill, it is necessary to conduct an external inspection. Experts can determine this moment at first glance, and for inexperienced craftsmen there are markings by which one can judge the method of securing the chuck to the drill. Examples of markings for conical and threaded connections are described above.
We remove cartridges with their various connections + (Video)
To remove a chuck that is screwed onto a tool, do the following:
1) There is a screw inside the cartridge located in the middle of the device. This screw has a left-hand thread.
2) To unscrew the screw, you will need to use a Phillips head screwdriver.
3) It must be unscrewed in the clockwise direction, that is, to the left.
4) After unscrewing the screw, which may not be present on some drill models, it is necessary to unscrew the unit that serves to fix the working element. Unscrewing is carried out by rotating the unit to the right.
Such popular manufacturers of power tools as Interskol and Makita have a similar design for securing cartridges on drills and screwdrivers. Therefore, all that is needed to unscrew the cartridge is to determine the type of connection and then use one or another method to remove the cartridge.
Makita drill with keyless chuck and threaded connection
When removing a cartridge with a cone connection, there are often no problems at all. The simplest way is to carry out the work using a hammer. It is used to dislodge the structural element from its engagement. The drill must be secured in a vice so that the chuck faces down. After this, blows are applied to the back of the cartridge, thereby dismantling it.
Drill with various cones for securing the chuck
Putting on a new cartridge + (Video)
After the cartridge has been dismantled, it must be replaced with a new one. To do this, perform the following steps:
1) For chuck threaded connection:
— a new cartridge is screwed onto the propeller shaft in a clockwise direction;
— the screw is tightened in the direction of rotation counterclockwise.
2) For cone connection:
- secure the drill in a vice;
— place the cartridge on the shaft;
- Using a hammer and mallet, install the part in place.
So, to remove the chuck from any drill, you need to know the procedure and be able to distinguish the design features of the connections. The only drawback of all these procedures is the need to replace the cartridge with a new one, because worn parts can no longer be repaired.
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