Hello to all aquarists! This post will focus on the pink zebrafish. Let me immediately explain that this species belongs to the breeding form of zebrafish (lat. Danio rerio), and not to those fish that, in comparison with the breeding ones, are considered real pink zebrafish (lat. Brachydanio albolineatus), but also, like zebrafish, live in India.
True pink zebrafish (lat. Brachydanio albolineatus)
It should be noted that the work of the breeders was not in vain and the pink zebrafish gained enormous popularity, but at the same time, I think, some kind of disadvantages appeared.
Pink zebrafish is a breeding form of zebrafish (lat. Danio rerio)
For example, according to my observations, pink zebrafish are more prone to diseases; besides, the selected fish are somewhat smaller than ordinary zebrafish. But now the elegant pink danios are still just as nimble and cheerful and very interesting to watch.
Description
All zebrafish belong to the carp family of the order Cypriniformes. These include long-known and popular among aquarists: long-horned beetles, zebrafish, loaches and spined loaches. They are common in Europe, Asia, Africa and North America. All cyprinids lack an adipose fin. Longhorned beetles and zebrafish are in many ways similar to characins and occupy an ecological niche in Asia that belongs to the latter in America. When keeping zebrafish, they need to be given herbal supplements. Carp-like animals do not care for their offspring.
In an aquarium, zebrafish grow no more than 5-6 centimeters. Their body is elongated and painted silver with bright blue stripes. Young veiled species have short fins, and when they grow back they form a veil. The edges of the fins may be yellow. A distinctive feature of the difference between a female and a male is the abdomen - in the female it is much thicker. Males, as a rule, are always slimmer than females. The average lifespan of zebrafish is 3 years.
Danio pink content
Keeping pink danios just like their ancestors zebrafish is not at all difficult. Although zebrafish are not demanding of a large volume of water, they love clean lake water, so an aquarium for keeping pink zebrafish must have a fairly strong biological balance, which cannot be created in small aquariums, so the minimum aquarium volume is 50 liters. Hydrochemical parameters of water: hardness 5-15°, acidity 6.5–7.5.
It should be noted that the recommended water temperature parameters for keeping zebrafish from different sources may vary. For example, somewhere you may be recommended 21-25° degrees or even 18-23° C. This water temperature should be considered conditional because in real conditions, when keeping zebrafish in a common aquarium, it will have significant deviations.
Think for yourself, no one will recommend that you keep fish in a general aquarium at a temperature of 18-23° degrees, knowing full well that the rest of the fish will die out from hypothermia and disease. I keep zebrafish at a temperature of 24 to 26° degrees.
Pink zebrafish tolerate temperatures of 28° degrees well, but at elevated temperatures, females’ eggs quickly mature and the risk of developing a cyst increases significantly. Danio rerio are to some extent considered cold-water, but when kept in a community aquarium, they adapt perfectly to warm water.
What to feed pink danios
Danios are omnivores and do not refuse dry gammarus, daphnia and specially produced artificial food. As a herbal supplement, they can be given steamed and well-washed semolina or just a crumb of white bread. Among artificial foods, grated beef heart is loved. But the fish menu should not consist only of dry and artificial food. To maintain health, they need to be fed with live food.
Among the live foods zebrafish love are: small bloodworms, coretra and daphnia. If necessary, and especially in winter, live food can be cultivated for them at home. For example, Daphnia moina is well suited for these purposes.
Zebrafish are fast and preferentially stay in the upper layers of water and, when food is added, they eat first.
Danio pink compatibility with other fish
All zebrafish are peaceful species. Friendly, medium-sized fish species are well suited for joint keeping: guppies, mollies, swordtails, platies, gouramis, neons, thorns, barbs, angelfish, catfish, tarakatums, corydoras and others.
Zebrafish diseases
Pink danios are quite hardy and unpretentious, but they get sick just like other species. The most common disease is ichthyophthyriosis . Symptoms of the disease: scratching of the fish on the ground, compression of the fins and the appearance of a white coating in the form of small grains (semolina) on the body of the fish and fins.
I have bred zebrafish many times and I will tell you that these fish are very easy to breed. Young individuals willingly go to spawn, and spawning can be observed even in a community aquarium. Once I had the opportunity to observe the appearance of fry preserved in the thickets of plants. The fry, feeding on ciliates and leftover food, grew up, became bolder and joined the flock.
There are two ways to arrange zebrafish spawning, with and without preparation. In the first case, approximately a week before the planned spawning, it is necessary to separate the males and females. For example, this is how I do it: I put males in a spawning tank and after 4-5 days I add females to them. The second method depends on random spawnings in a common aquarium, and since such spawnings are unexpected, there is no need to plan them for some time.
However, if you change half or a third of the water in the evening, then spawning will most likely begin in the morning hours. In this case, you need to catch the spawning fish and place them in a spawning tank where spawning, as a rule, can continue successfully. I have used this method many times and I can say that it is 99% trouble-free.
Zebrafish Spawning
This time I am breeding pink danios. There is absolutely nothing new for me. I have live food and a well-established technique for raising fry. I breed these fish because they are beautiful and a grown school should definitely decorate my aquarium. I brought pink danios from the city of Ruzaevka when I was there on a business trip.
Initially, I didn’t plan to buy, but just before leaving I decided to visit a pet store to buy some fish as a souvenir. Since zebrafish are hardy fish, and it took me more than 12 hours to travel home, I chose pink zebrafish. And when I arrived home, I planned to breed pink danios there in Ruzaevka.
Danios are undemanding about the size of the spawning tank, and anyone who bred these fish knows well that you can use just an ordinary three-liter jar for a spawning tank. But this option is considered not preferable because the hatched fry will still have to be moved to a nursery aquarium, and this is associated with a certain risk of their loss.
Well, if that’s the case, then it’s time to move the fry from the jar to the nursery aquarium correctly. There is no need to suffer and catch the fry with a spoon, ladle or net. Also, you cannot pour them out of the jar, but you just need to put the jar in an aquarium in which the water level is higher, then place a hose with a sprayer in the jar and quietly turn on the aeration. A small stream of water will help the fry get out of the jar.
To breed pink danios I will use a 20 liter spawning tank. I will install the aeration and set the heater to 26° degrees, and as a protective net I will use a synthetic rope untangled and crumpled, and then pressed on top with stones.
The net does not cover the entire bottom of the spawning tank, but as they say, this is beneficial and I will not need to eliminate the excess part of the fry. I will place the mesh in the center because I think this is where the middle part of the spawned eggs will be preserved.
Danios can spawn in pairs, but if the males are no longer young, then two or more males are added to one female. In the evening I added one female to four males. Among the selected males there were males with the following color variation: two males of a bright pink color, one with a dark pink tint, and another male with the zebra zebra variation who, for some reason, did not participate in the spawning at all.
The next morning, spawning began. It lasted about an hour, after which I immediately transplanted the breeders into a common aquarium. On the third day the larvae appeared, and on the fourth or fifth day the fry swam.
Pink zebrafish fry
Since the Daphnia nauplis were still large for the tiny fry, I used boiled yolk as a starter food. But I only managed to feed the yolk for two or three days because the fry had already begun to eat the daphnia, which I added to the fry as soon as they swam.
I always used ampullaria snails as orderlies, but this time I didn’t have them, and I added a small ancistrus to the fry, which also did a good job of eating the fallen yolk particles from the bottom.
The fry fed the yolk from his finger, that is, without washing the yolk, since the milk, consisting of microparticles of the yolk, which muddies the water, was eaten by the daphnia, and the water was always clean and transparent. Today the fry are three weeks old. They are already eating scraped beef heart and the largest of them can begin to be transplanted into a common aquarium.
The growing school contained fish with different color variations: pink, dark pink and white albino. The appearance of albinos suggests that the pink zebrafish, as a selected species, is easily split and to preserve it, constant selection must be carried out.
Diseases often affect weakened fish. Typically, the behavior of a sick fish differs from the behavior of other fish. A sick fish swims differently, breathes frequently, hides in thickets of plants, and itches on the ground or plants. A sick fish loses its appetite and its fins are compressed. All these are signs of the initial disease of the fish.Often one of the causes of fish disease is their improper maintenance, so aquarium fish need to be closely monitored. If fish grow in unfavorable conditions, they become defenseless against infectious diseases. Often fish get sick due to low water temperature and insufficient oxygen content in the water.
Also, one of the causes of fish disease is improper feeding. Fasting for adult fish practically does not harm them, but for fry it is a big minus. In the first days of life, fry need to eat well in order to grow. Overeating for adult fish causes obesity, which subsequently leads to their death, since obesity is not treated. Feeding monotonous food can lead to inflammation of the stomach and intestines. With this disease, the fish usually do not lose their appetite, but their color becomes darker and their movements are more constrained. Inflammation of the stomach and intestines in fish weakens them, and this is a high chance that the fish will catch infectious diseases.
How to cure fish?
1. When unfavorable conditions of detention, improper feeding and injury to fish, treatment simply involves creating optimal conditions for the fish.
Curable diseases: clouding of the fish's eyes, damage to the fins, mucus on the gills, changes in the color of the gills, fading of the color of the fish - all this is treated with short-term but repeated baths (water 30-32 ° C with a high concentration of methylene blue). Baths are also used if the fish move little and are covered with all kinds of specks or spots. In the intervals between baths, the fish are kept (as already described above) in a separate vessel.
Incurable diseases:
If a fish loses its balance and swims with its tail down or sideways, then such a fish is incurable.
Bug eyes in one or both eyes are incurable.
Tumors on the gills and skin of fish are incurable.
Danio pink- one of the most common types of aquarium fish. It has gained wide popularity due to its unpretentiousness, beauty, and ability to get along with many other fish. If you decide to start breeding ornamental fish, zebrafish are a great start for a novice aquarist.
It is not picky about environmental conditions and feeding, and forgives many mistakes made by amateur beginners. But still, before introducing a pink zebrafish fry into the aquarium, it is worth finding out at least basic information about keeping the fish and caring for it.
In nature, zebrafish look completely different from what they look like in an aquarium. The pink zebrafish was bred artificially. Inhabits the waters of Indochina and Southeast Asia. The fish has a small body, up to 4.5 cm long, but in the wild it sometimes grows up to 8 cm. The body shape is elongated, slightly flattened on the sides. 
It has a beautiful pink color, as reflected in the name. There are white stripes along the sides. The fins of the fish are transparent.
Danio belongs to the carp family; there are two pairs of whiskers along the edges of the oral cavity. The scales on the back and sides have a complex range of colors: shades of blue, olive and green. They live in an aquarium for an average of 5 years.
The normal habitat conditions for the fish are:
- - +21...+25 °C;
- - 5-15 °dH;
- acid-base balance -6-7.5 pH.
Did you know? The pink zebrafish's older brother, the zebrafish, was on the orbital space station. Not many fish have received such an honor.
You should keep a group of fish in the aquarium, at least 8 in number. The minimum size of the aquarium (length) is 70 cm, volume is 50 l. Danios love to disperse in schools and swim in a straight line, so the length of the aquarium is very important for them. 
Pebbles and other elements that can be found in sufficient quantities in a pet store are used as decorative elements.
The fish jump out of the aquarium quite easily, so you will need a lid. It is necessary to install good lighting, preferably near the front glass.
Danio has an excellent appetite and happily eats both dry food and live food. You should select live food of the required size; bloodworms, coretra, and young brine shrimp are suitable for this.
The surface of the water with small insects sitting on it is another source of food for the fish. Complex mixtures with vitamins and minerals are also a very good option.
Sometimes you should give fresh vegetables: cucumber, zucchini, sweet pepper. Vegetables must be grated; if fresh ones are not available, frozen ones will do. 
You need to feed once a day, this will be quite enough. There is no need to feed any more, the fish has a good appetite, and even when it is full, it will continue to eat. And this can cause digestive problems.
Danios do not eat food from the bottom or floating in the water column. They like to feed from the surface; all other food should be caught so that the water does not become cloudy and organic matter does not decompose in it.
Important! It is necessary to take care of good filtration of water in an aquarium with fish. Proper aeration is equally important.
Compatibility with other aquarium inhabitants
Danio gets along with almost all peace-loving fish:
- neon;
They feel normal around shrimp and snails. If there is one in the aquarium, you should not add veiled zebrafish there. More frisky neighbors can taste their veil. Fishes that are contraindicated in proximity to:
- acne;
It happens that pink danios show aggression. The reason most often is that their population in the aquarium is too small. In this case, you should increase the number of individuals to 12-14 pieces.
If you seriously decide to start breeding aquarium fish, you just need to learn how to distinguish the sex of the pink zebrafish. You can, of course, if you have free time and a desire to experiment, go the empirical route: selecting a few fish at a time and separating them from the rest of the mass, wait until the females begin to spawn.
But you can do it easier and try to find out by some, sometimes subtle, but quite accurate signs, how to distinguish a female zebrafish from a male. 
Of course, you can see the female spawning, mark the fish somehow, and next time just place it in the spawning area. But such luck will not always accompany you. In addition, there are situations when you have to choose a female from a common school of fish when purchasing.
In such cases, you should look at the size of the individual. The female is larger than the male, her abdomen has a rounded shape, the male has a smaller “height” and a much thinner “build”. These signs are typical for adult fish of approximately the same age. Up to a certain point, the female may be smaller than the male.
They search for a male by color - a well-proven method that, however, requires attentiveness and observation. The longitudinal stripes on the sides of the male have brighter colors than those of the female. The characteristic feature is explained very simply - the female chooses the most striking partner during the breeding season.
Did you know? In the USA, transgenic zebrafish (rerio) were bred that glow in the dark under ultraviolet radiation.
Another sign is the shape of the anal fin. Females are characterized by a more round shape and larger size. But this is a rather dubious method, especially if you are a novice aquarist. The size and shape differences are so small that it can be easy to make a mistake.
You can watch the “mating dances” of fish. The male arranges a real “gypsy with an exit” around the object of his passion. He circles around the female for quite a long time, from which we can conclude: the one in the center is a female, and the one courting her, accordingly, is a male.
In nature, pink zebrafish spawn during the rainy season. At this time, fresh water becomes warm and warms up to the desired temperature. 
But it was noticed that in natural conditions, female zebrafish caught in winter had an abdomen filled with eggs. This circumstance indicates that the timing of the breeding season, in addition to the season, is influenced by the quantity and quality of food. From this we can conclude that zebrafish can be bred at home all year round.
At home, zebrafish reproduction occurs as follows: two males and a female are sent to spawn. Spawning groups of fish with the same proportions of males and females are also used.
Important! The spawned female should be put back to spawning after a week, otherwise she will never be able to give birth to offspring again.
Expressing eggs from small fish is a rather problematic task, so females who are no more than 1 year old are selected for spawning. It’s easier with males in this regard.
14 days before spawning, males and females are separated. Females are fed in abundance with live food, their abdomen becomes round - this is a sign of readiness for spawning. When breeding, pink zebrafish are transplanted from a common aquarium into a prepared spawning area.
The normal volume of spawning habitat for one female zebrafish is 10 liters. The bottom should be lined with a separator mesh so that it is approximately two centimeters above the bottom. Sometimes plants with small foliage are used for these purposes, pressing them with small stones to the bottom of the spawning area.
Approximately 30% of the total volume of water should be boiled (provides the necessary hardness), the rest should be fresh, settled. 
Check the hardness and acid-base balance readings; these are the most important indicators during spawning. Normally they should be:
- hardness -<10 °dH;
- pH = 7.
In the evening, males are released into the spawning area; after 3-4 hours, females can be released. Now you need to raise the temperature by 5-6 °C. The normal value is +26...+28 °C. All that remains is to turn on the light.
In the morning, at sunrise, spawning will begin. It will continue for several hours. The female lays eggs, about 200 milky eggs. After the end of spawning, participants in the process should be removed from the spawning area.
It is advisable to remove the netting (plants), first carefully shaking off the eggs. Incubation duration is 35-50 hours. After four days, the fry will begin to swim and will need feeding. Ciliates, live dust, and nauplii are suitable for these purposes.
As the fry grow, they will need more serious food and a larger aquarium. The fry will reach sexual maturity by the age of six months. In principle, it is not difficult to reproduce zebrafish yourself at home. But this procedure should be treated very responsibly and carefully.
Did you know? One of the varieties of zebrafish, the veiled one, appeared as a result of an artificial mutation; such a fish does not exist in nature.
The pink zebrafish is characterized by some diseases, which we will discuss further.
Bloating. Signs of the disease - the abdomen noticeably increases in size. Sometimes this symptom is confused with caviar or overeating, but more often it indicates bloating. The fish lies on the bottom, its belly is swollen, it does not swim and does not come into contact with its fellows - there are signs of bloating.
Treatment is as follows: 1 tablet of trichopolum is diluted in 30 liters of water. Recovery usually occurs within 7 days. You can also arrange preventative measures for your neighbors; it won’t make them any worse.
The fish swims sideways. Sometimes the fish swims in a circle, being active and in contact with its neighbors. These are symptoms of poisoning. It may be caused by high levels of nitrates. 
Change the water in the aquarium and refresh it by a third every three days.
Growths. On zebrafish, growths occur extremely rarely, but if such a growth does appear, the salt content should be increased and the water temperature should be increased.
Pour 1 liter of prepared water (t +28 °C) into a separate container. Add 2 tbsp there. l. salt. Keep the fish there for 15-20 minutes, then return it to the aquarium. After three days, there will be no traces of the growths.
Bug-eyed. The most common disease. The disease most often develops during spawning. The body color remains the same, only the abdomen increases. During spawning, this circumstance is not surprising, but you should pay attention to the eyes. If they are very bulging, this is bulging eyes. After two weeks, the eyes fall out and the fish goes blind, and then dies from hunger. The reason is bad water. Change water by 1/3 every other day.
Trichodinosis. The fish rubs against various surfaces and plants, constantly swims near aeration, the color loses its brightness, and a light coating appears on the skin, separated in flakes.
The causative agent of the disease is one of the types of ciliates - Trichodina, which enters the habitat with plants and soil. Sometimes - in feed, if they were poorly processed.
Treatment: aeration should be increased, the water temperature should be increased to +31 °C. Therapeutic salt baths are recommended.
Important! For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to feed the fish bloodworms with an antibiotic for a week, every month. Other food is not suitable for these purposes - the product will be washed out, destroying the microflora in the aquarium.
Tuberculosis. The most acceptable treatment is food with antibiotics (rifampicin, kanamycin). You can introduce drugs into the aquarium or into the fish tank. If the disease develops rapidly, the zebrafish no longer accepts food, and you want to save it, you should remove the fish and inject the drug into the water:
- kanamycin - 3 g per 100 l;
- rifampicin - 600 mg per 100 l.
Medicines should be introduced into the aquarium only when it is impossible to do otherwise. Antibiotics destroy all bacteria, and this leads to disruption of the biobalance.
The best solution is to add the drug to the feed. Soak the bloodworms in a solution (1 g/100 ml of water) of kanamycin for 30 minutes and feed it to the “patients”. The course of treatment is 14 days. 
Do not forget that water for fish is their main habitat. Its condition means no less to the inhabitants of the aquarium than the air quality does to us. Carefully monitor the indicators and condition of the water, take care of your little pets, and they will delight you with their presence for a long time.
Danio is the favorite fish of almost every beginning aquarist. She is beautiful, unpretentious, very friendly and does not create any problems during the growing process. But, like other inhabitants of the aquarium, she can get sick and who, if not her owner, should learn her “tricks” and know how to cure her pet? Let's look at the main diseases and ways to deal with them in order to meet the problem with all weapons!
Main diseases of zebrafish
Bloating. The first signs of the disease are an increase in the abdomen by 2 times. Some aquarists confuse this with overeating or spawn, but in most cases it is bloat. Zebrafish are prone to it and very often their owners encounter this problem. Danio lies on the bottom, practically does not swim, does not come into contact with fish, and its belly is much larger.
It is necessary to treat with metronidazole (1 tablet per 30 liters of water). In a week the disease should go away. For prevention, you can also “drink” other inhabitants in the aquarium - there is nothing wrong with that.
Swimming in circles. In some cases, the fish begin to swim in a circle, but remain quite active and react to other participants in the “movement”. As a rule, this behavior occurs during poisoning. Some individuals are very sensitive to the amount of nitrates, so you just need to replace the water with normal composition and periodically (once every 3 days) change 1/3 of the aquarium water.
Growths. There are practically no such growths on zebrafish, but if such a disease occurs, then you just need to increase the salinity of the water and the temperature. Place the fish separately in a jar and add 2 tablespoons of salt. Keep it there for 15 minutes at +28 degrees, then put it back into the general aquarium. The fluffy growths will die and come off in a couple of days.
Size of hydrobionts - M L
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Fish size
M - up to 3 cm, XL - up to 4 cm.
Habitat
The main habitat of these fish are the quiet rivers of Thailand and. Sumatra.
Description
The length of this species of zebrafish is up to 6 cm. The body is elongated, slender, moderately flattened laterally. 2 pairs of antennae. The back is gray-olive, the side is gray-green, silver and, depending on the lighting, has a greenish, bluish or violet color. Along the body, starting at the level of the pectoral fins and gradually expanding to the caudal peduncle, there is a red stripe with a blue edge, which becomes weaker with age and may disappear completely. The dorsal is yellowish-green, the anal fin is cherry to orange-red, and the tail is greenish. Fish are especially beautifully colored when kept in large schools.
The male is more intensely colored; there may be a cherry-red spot in the middle of the tail. The female is much plumper, especially before spawning.
All zebrafish are exceptionally strong fish with excellent health, so even completely inexperienced amateurs can keep them.
Small pebbles or gravel are ideal as soil. Plants can be planted at your discretion, but the main thing is to leave an open, well-lit area of the aquarium for the school of zebrafish, sufficient for their swimming.
Optimal water parameters for keeping zebrafish: Temperature (t) 20-25°C (summer), 17-21°C (winter). Water hardness (dH) 5-15°. Recommended rigidity is no more than 10°. Acidity (pH) 6.0-7.5.
For the good health of the fish, it is necessary to change the water every 7-14 days to 20-25% of the aquarium volume, as well as good filtration with aeration. It is good when the temperature of the replacement water is 2-3 degrees higher than the aquarium water, and it is infused.
Breeding
It is very easy to achieve spawning in zebrafish. Failures are mainly due to deficiencies in the conditions of detention. One of these disadvantages can be called too high a water temperature in the aquarium in winter.
Before spawning, males and females should be seated and, raising the temperature to 23-25°C, feed them well with bloodworms or tubifex worms for several days (the latter are worse).
A three-liter glass jar works best as a spawning ground for small species. For large species, a cylindrical jar with a diameter of 40 centimeters is most suitable. In these vessels the bottom is convex in the middle, which is very important. But as a last resort, you can use a rectangular jar or aquarium with a bottom size of 40x20 centimeters for large species.
An excellent plant substrate for spawning is glitter or moss, which amateurs call fontinalis (Amblystegium riparium). In extreme cases, you can use cirrus. The plants are placed on the bottom and pressed down with well-washed pebbles. Fill the spawning tank with tap water, previously settled in a glass or enamel container for 6-8 days. You can take water from a clean, healthy aquarium in all respects, but in this case it must be properly aerated by strong blowing or repeated pouring from vessel to vessel. The water level in the spawning tank for small species should be 6-9 cm, for large ones - 10-15.
Experiments have shown that the fertilization of eggs increases sharply when using not a pair, but three adult zebrafish (one female with a rounded abdomen and two males) for spawning. The above does not apply to zebrafish. The spawners are placed in the spawning tank in the evening, and the next day spawning is usually observed, which begins the earlier, the brighter the spawning tank is illuminated. If spawning does not follow, the fish must be left in the spawning tank for another day, but if even then they do not spawn, they are caught, and the eggs are carefully squeezed out of the female, clamped in wet cotton wool. The operation is not difficult. The cotton wool with the female is clamped between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, belly up. The eggs are squeezed out with light movements of the index finger of the right hand, directed from the head to the tail of the female. After such an operation, the female is ready for spawning within a week.
While chasing the female, the males continually squeeze (or rather knock out) eggs from her. And this is where the advantage of a spawning tank with a convex bottom becomes indisputable. Zebrafish eggs are non-sticky and, falling to the bottom, they roll down it to the edge of the vessel, under the plants. As a result, they are all saved. otherwise, all the caviar lying openly would be eaten.
When the spawning is over, the fish need to be landed, and it is useful to start blowing out the spawning tank.
Temperatures during zebrafish spawning can range from 22 to 28°C.
The larvae hatch on 3-4 days. On day 6-7 they need to be fed with ciliates.
Next, after two days, it is useful to pour the larvae into a large jar and feed them with ciliates or dust for another week. When the larvae grow up, they should be given cyclops. Soon they will color and turn into fry.
Feeding
Danios are not picky about food. However, preference should be given to live ones over dry and artificial ones, and among the living ones, bloodworms, coretras and small soft daphnia are the best for zebrafish. Feeding two or three times a day in small portions is better than once, especially during the breeding season. When feeding once, it is preferable to do it in the morning. The zebrafish takes food from the surface of the water, but can also sink to the bottom for food.
Instructions for use
Important! In winter, if you do not set a goal to obtain offspring at this time of year, zebrafish should be kept at lower temperatures than in summer.
ZANIO DISEASES
When buying zebrafish, special attention should be paid to the integrity of the skin and fins. At the same time, faded color does not always indicate illness; simply moving or replanting during the sale process could cause shock. But even if the zebrafish looks healthy, it must be kept in a separate aquarium in quarantine for a couple of weeks.
Zebrafish are very disease resistant. Despite the fact that she gets sick extremely rarely, the aquarium must have aeration. For proper maintenance and prevention of diseases in zebrafish, a clean water regime is very important. When feeding her, you must adhere to the rule - it is better to underfeed than to overfeed. Overfeeding is usually the cause of zebrafish illness.
Most often, zebrafish suffer from bulging eyes. The disease usually affects them at the age of several years during spawning. The body color does not change, but the abdomen noticeably increases, which looks natural during the spawning period. Over the course of two weeks, both eyes protrude more and more out of their sockets, then fall out one by one. The blind fish dies from exhaustion. When opened, a thick white mass is found behind the eyeball, which causes bulging eyes. The reason is poor quality water. Treatment: partial water change every 2 days.
Another disease that zebrafish suffer from is trichodinosis. The causative agent is the ciliate Trichodina, which has spine-like processes with which it attaches to the fish. Localized on the gill filaments and skin. Enters the aquarium along with plants, soil and food if they have not been properly disinfected.
Signs of the disease: the fish begins to rub against hard objects and plants, and more often than usual swims up to aeration bubbles. As the disease progresses, the color of the fish fades; a grayish-white coating is visible on the skin, which is separated by flakes. Treatment of trichodinosis: increased aeration, increased water temperature to 31 degrees. Therapeutic baths are made in a separate or common aquarium with table salt or trypaflavin.
Danios are prone to obesity.
Prevention of zebrafish diseases
To prevent zebrafish diseases, you need to follow simple rules. All items brought into the aquarium must be disinfected: in a solution of manganese, in boiling water or using other disinfectants.
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