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They say that Yuri Gagarin, after his flight, at some banquet, uttered a phrase that became printed only in our time. “I still don’t understand,” he said, “who I am: “the first man” or “the last dog.” What was said was considered a joke, but, as you know, there is some truth in every joke. The road to space for Yuri Gagarin was paved by... dogs.

Near-Earth orbits were inhabited by them. They barked at humanity from above and froze in shock. There are few dog names associated with space that remain in our memory...

In the early sixties, there were no more popular dogs in the world than the Soviet mongrels Belka and Strelka. Still would! For the first time, they will fly around the planet for 24 hours in a real spaceship and return home safe and sound! The fame of the two mongrel dogs was so great that one of Strelka’s puppies, the curly-haired Pushka, was sent overseas, on the personal orders of Nikita Khrushchev, to the wife of American President John Kennedy, the beautiful Jacqueline, as a souvenir. Apart from several dozen specialists, no one at that time knew: in order for Belka and Strelka’s flight to be a success, eighteen dogs’ lives were lost.

Sergei Pavlovich Korolev began to find out how a living creature would survive a rocket flight almost immediately after he reproduced a captured fascist weapon in Soviet factories - the Wernher von Braun (V-2) rocket. They took dogs as experimental subjects: Russian physiologists had long used them for experiments, knew how they behave, and understood the structural features of the body. In addition, dogs are not capricious and are easy to train.

The first group of dogs—candidates for space flights—were recruited in the gateways. These were ordinary ownerless dogs. They were caught and sent to a nursery, from where they were distributed to research institutes. The Institute of Aviation Medicine received dogs strictly according to specified standards: no heavier than 6 kilograms (the rocket cabin was designed for light weight) and no higher than 35 centimeters in height.

Why were mongrels recruited? The doctors believed that from the first day they were forced to fight for survival, moreover, they were unpretentious and very quickly got used to the staff, which was tantamount to training. Remembering that the dogs would have to “show off” on the pages of newspapers, they selected “objects” that were more beautiful, slimmer and with intelligent faces.

Space pioneers were trained in Moscow on the outskirts of the Dynamo stadium - in a red-brick mansion, which before the revolution was called the Mauritania Hotel. In Soviet times, the hotel was located behind the fence of the military Institute of Aviation and Space Medicine. The experiments carried out in the former apartments were strictly classified.

...Four in the morning. A gray dawn breaks over the dry steppe. But there is no sign of the silence required for such an early hour. Engineers are swarming around the pot-bellied rocket (R-1), stuck into the cement plate of the launch pad. The authorities surrounded two dogs - Desik and Gypsy, they will have to take a place at the very top of the formidable structure. The mongrels are dressed in special suits that help keep sensors on their bodies, and are fed stewed meat and bread. Decisive Korolev in a fashionable jacket with padded shoulders takes Vladimir Yazdovsky as the head of the medical program: “You know, what if dogs don’t listen to someone else’s hands?” I’m a superstitious person, climb up yourself!.. Yazdovsky and mechanic Voronkov climb to the top - to where the cabin hatch is open. They are served dogs already placed in special trays. Locks click. Yazdovsky runs his hand over the dogs’ faces in farewell: “Good luck!” The sun's rays are already visible breaking through the horizon. At these moments, the air is especially clean and transparent, which means that the rocket soaring up will be clearly visible. Start. About fifteen minutes later, a serene white parachute is visible on the horizon. Everyone rushes to the landing site of the container with the dogs, looks out the window: alive! alive!...

Probably, it was at that time that the fate of manned astronautics was decided - the living could fly on rockets!

A week later, during the second test, Dezik and his partner Lisa died - the parachute did not open. This is how the mournful list of space victims was discovered.

At the same time, it was decided not to send Desik’s partner, Gypsy, on the flight, but to preserve it for history. The dog was warmed up at home by the Chairman of the State Commission, Academician Blagonravov. They say that the first four-legged traveler had a stern disposition and until the end of his days was recognized as the leader among the surrounding dogs. One day the vivarium was inspected by a respectable general. The gypsy, who had the right to walk around the premises at any time, did not like the inspector, and he pulled him by the stripe. But the general was not allowed to kick the little dog in response: after all, he was an astronaut!

In total, from July 1951 to September 1962, 29 dog flights took place into the stratosphere to an altitude of 100-150 kilometers. Eight of them ended tragically. The dogs died from depressurization of the cabin, failure of the parachute system, and problems in the life support system. Alas, they did not receive even a hundredth of the glory that their four-legged colleagues who were in orbit covered themselves with. Even if posthumously...

However, despite the secrecy, the security services carefully monitored political correctness. Among the testers was a dog named Marquise. When it was her turn to go up, her superiors demanded that she change her nickname, in case some real marquise found out and was offended! An international scandal will emerge. The marquise was renamed White.

And the first “declassified” dog was the mongrel Laika. After 1957, when the first artificial Earth satellite was launched into orbit, Khrushchev demanded from Korolev the next, no less spectacular launch. The chief designer decided to send a dog on the second satellite. It was clear that this was a kamikaze: at that time they did not yet know how to return a ship from a space flight. Of the dozen trained, the “testers” first selected three - Albina, Laika and Mukha.

Albina has already flown twice and has served science well,” Vladimir Ivanovich Yazdovsky told me. “Plus, she had funny puppies.” We decided to feel sorry for her. Two-year-old Laika was chosen as the cosmonaut.

She was nice, calm, affectionate. It was a pity for her...

They prepared Laika for the flight in a very touching way. It was late autumn at Baikonur, and it was quite cool in the cabin. Doctors extended a hose with warm air from a ground-based air conditioner to keep the dog warm. On November 3, 1957, Laika went into orbit. The Telegraph Agency of the Soviet Union officially reported that “in accordance with the International Geophysical program for scientific research of the atmosphere, as well as for the study of physical processes and living conditions in outer space... the second artificial Earth satellite was launched.” Next, it listed what research equipment was on board the satellite, and casually it was said that, in addition to everything, the satellite carried “a sealed container with an experimental animal (dog) ....” The dog's name was made public only a day later. No one knew then that the dog, whose portraits appeared in all the newspapers, had a one-way ticket. By the time her portrait was printed, she was already dead. Everyone involved in the experiment knew that Laika’s life in space would be three to four hours. A week-long flight was out of the question. There was a serious technical error in the design of the cabin. It was too late to redo it. For the experimenters, it was important how the dog would transfer the launch into orbit and the few orbits that it would live and which would provide valuable telemetry.

Laika lived in zero gravity for several hours, and then, as official reports say, the “cosmonaut” was put to sleep. But it was a nice lie. The dog overheated during the flight and presumably died from heat and suffocation on the fourth orbit. Meanwhile, newspapers and radio reported several times a day on the well-being of... the already dead dog.

For several more months, the second Soviet satellite with the deceased Laika wound up its orbits, and only in April 1958 did it enter the dense layers of the atmosphere and burnt up.

When the English Humane Society protested the martyrdom of dogs, Soviet industry responded by urgently releasing Laika cigarettes with the image of the legendary dog.

After the launch of Laika, the Soviet Union did not send biological objects into orbit for almost three years: the development of a return vehicle equipped with life support systems was underway. It was developed in early 1960. On whom to test it? Of course, on the same dogs! It was decided to send only females on spaceship flights. The explanation is the simplest: for a female it is easier to make a spacesuit with a system for receiving urine and feces.

1960 was a joyful and tragic year for the Baikonur Cosmodrome.

On October 26, the R-16 combat intercontinental ballistic missile exploded and burned on the launch pad. 92 people died in the fire, including the Commander-in-Chief of the Rocket Forces, Marshal of Artillery Mitrofan Ivanovich Nedelin. It was officially reported that he died in a plane crash.

And fifteen days before this tragedy, the Central Committee of the CPSU adopted a secret secret about space flight. The deadline was also set - December 1960.

Everything was ready for the flight. One condition remained to be fulfilled: two ships with dogs must successfully fly into space.

The Soviet press carefully kept silent about the first such experimental dog flight in a spacecraft. Mindful of the “national outrage” over the use of dogs in experiments, all missile launches were classified. It was decided to report them only if the outcome was successful.

The next dog-cosmonauts - Fox and Chaika - were supposed to return to Earth safe and sound, their descent module was protected by thermal insulation. The Queen really liked the affectionate red Fox. At the moment of fitting the dog to the ejection capsule of the descent vehicle, he came up, took it in his arms, stroked it and said: “I really want you to come back.” However, the dog failed to fulfill the wishes of the chief designer - on July 28, 1960, at the 19th second of flight, the side block of the first stage of the Vostok 8K72 rocket fell off, it fell and exploded. One of the engineers grumbled: “You couldn’t put a red dog on a rocket.” There were no press reports about the failed July 28 launch.

Their backups successfully flew on the next ship and became famous. On August 20, 1960, it was announced that “the descent module made a soft landing and the dogs Belka and Strelka returned safely to the ground.” They were already real astronauts. In addition, they developed a method for training biocosmonauts.

Belka and Strelka became everyone's favorites. They were taken to kindergartens, schools, and orphanages. At press conferences, journalists were allowed to touch the dogs, but they were warned not to accidentally bite them.

Scientists did not limit themselves only to space experiments and continued research on earth. Now it was necessary to find out whether space flight affected the genetics of the animal. Strelka twice gave birth to healthy offspring, cute puppies that everyone would dream of purchasing. But everything was strict... Each puppy was registered, and they were personally responsible for it. In August 1961, Nikita Sergeevich Khrushchev personally asked one of them. He sent it as a gift to Jacqueline Kennedy, the wife of the US President. So, perhaps, the offspring of the Strelka cosmonaut are still found on the American one. Belka and Strelka spent the rest of their lives at the institute and died of natural causes.

The team of astronaut dogs was rapidly growing. Following Belka and Strelka, the road to space was to be paved by Pchelka and Mushka.

Here we should make a small digression. All descent vehicles, up to Gagarin's spacecraft, were equipped with an emergency detonation system (APO), which was activated if the landing was planned outside the territory of the USSR. To prevent the descent module from falling into the wrong hands, the built-in TNT charge had to destroy it before entering the atmosphere. All state secrets not destroyed by explosives would burn up in the atmosphere. This kind of thing was not installed only on manned ships; dogs were equated with other secret equipment.

The launch of the ship with Pchelka and Mushka took place on December 1, 1960. If previous flights were reported retroactively, then all radio stations of the Soviet Union broadcast about Pchelka and Mushka in the voice of Levitan. The last TASS message was as follows: “By 12 o’clock Moscow time on December 2, 1960, the third Soviet satellite ship continued its movement around the globe... The command was given to lower the satellite ship to Earth. Due to the descent along an off-design trajectory, the satellite ship ceased to exist upon entering the dense layers of the atmosphere. The last stage of the launch vehicle continues its movement in its previous orbit.” It was not accepted then to ask questions about what this off-design trajectory is that stops the flight of the ship.

And this is what happened. Due to a small defect, the braking impulse turned out to be significantly less than the calculated one, and the descent trajectory turned out to be stretched.

Consequently, the descent module had to enter the atmosphere somewhat later than expected and fly out of the territory of the USSR.

How is APO? Upon command to descend, simultaneously with the activation of the braking engines, the sentry of the explosive device is activated. The infernal one can only be turned off by an overload sensor, which is triggered only when the descent vehicle enters the atmosphere. In the case of Pchelka and Mushka, the saving signal breaking the fuse circuit did not arrive at the estimated time, and the descent module with the dogs turned into a cloud of small fragments in the upper layers of the atmosphere. Only the developers of the APO system received satisfaction: they were able to confirm its reliability in real conditions. Subsequently, without any special changes, she migrated aboard secret reconnaissance ships.

20 days later, on December 22, another ship with a live crew—dogs Shutka and Comet, rats and mice—set off. At the last stage of ascent, the third stage engine failed, the descent module separated from the ship and, according to ballistics calculations, landed in Yakutia. There was no hope of finding the dogs alive: even if the device had survived at the active site, the dogs had to be thrown out by catapult in an uninsulated container into the 40-degree Yakut frost. Nevertheless, a rescue expedition departed for Yakutia. On the fourth day, she discovered colored parachutes near the city of Tours. The descent vehicle lay unharmed, and sappers began clearing mines. It turned out that the ejection system failed during the descent, which miraculously saved the dogs’ lives. They felt great inside the descent module, protected by thermal insulation. Joke and Comet were removed, wrapped in a sheepskin coat and urgently sent to Moscow as the most valuable cargo. This time there were no TASS reports regarding the failed launch.

Sergei Pavlovich Korolev did not back down from his decision: two successful starts and a man flies. On the following ships the dogs were launched one at a time.

On March 9, 1961, Chernushka went into space. The dog had to make one revolution around the earth and return - an exact model of human flight. Everything went well.

On March 25, Zvezdochka launched. And she had to complete one revolution and land. The flight ended successfully. It was on it that all stages of the flight were practiced, which the first human cosmonaut had to perform a little later.

Dogs were never destined to fly into space again. The dogs have done their job. There were 18 days left before the launch into space.

Most often, complex and dangerous experiments of the new science took place with the participation of experimental dogs.

Why dogs?

We know that other animals have gone into space, but dogs are particularly common participants in space experiments. Why dogs?

Firstly, science has already accumulated some experience in using dogs as experimental animals. Here it is appropriate to recall the creator of the science of higher nervous activity I.P. Pavlov, who used them in his research.

Secondly, dogs can be trained, they are attached to a person, they are easier to train to stay in a confined space for a long time, endure strong overloads and vibrations, not be afraid of loud and incomprehensible sounds, be able to stay in tight experimental equipment, allowing you to record the data obtained from sensors attached to the body .

Monkeys are more difficult to train, show anxiety and interfere, are unpredictable in behavior, and experience more stress. The United States, which originally used monkeys for space experiments, sent them into space under anesthesia. But many monkeys died from it. In addition, the data obtained from an animal under anesthesia could not be accurate.

Astronaut dogs and their offspring

What dogs were used for space flights?

Most often - mongrel and homeless. They have already undergone natural selection in the conditions of the street and a wandering lifestyle. Compared to domestic and purebred dogs, mongrels have good health, ingenuity, unpretentiousness in food, and a loyal attitude towards people. But the search for suitable animals took place in accordance with the parameters of the rockets. We selected dogs no heavier than 6 kg and no taller than 35 cm. Short-haired dogs were most suitable for the correct placement of sensors. They were sent on flights in pairs to obtain more objective results, while their psychological compatibility was always taken into account. Yes, yes, dogs, like people, can also be psychologically incompatible.

Research into dog flights into the upper atmosphere and into space was carefully kept secret. Designers, scientists and even dogs were under pseudonyms. In this regard, sometimes one dog could have several different nicknames.

Periods of scientific research into animal space flights

The bulk of the experiments on launching dogs into the upper atmosphere were carried out on geophysical rockets from the Kapustin Yar test site in the Astrakhan region. The rockets reached an altitude of 100-400 km, and then their separating warheads with passengers descended back by parachute. There are three stages of such research.

First stage (July - September 1951)

It was carried out using geophysical rockets R-1B, R-1V to an altitude of up to 100 km. The dogs were in a sealed cabin, tied with belts on special trays. Having risen to the required height, the rocket fell back, and the head part with the dogs descended by parachute, which opened at an altitude of 5-7 km. With the help of scientific equipment, studies of the upper layers of the atmosphere and nearby space were simultaneously carried out.

On July 22, 1951, Desik and Gypsy became the first living beings from planet Earth, for the first time in history, to fly on a ballistic missile into the upper atmosphere to the conventional boundary with space (the Karman line) and return back alive. The launch of the R-1В (В-1В) rocket with dogs on board took place at the Kapustin Yar test site at 4:00 am. The entire flight until landing lasted about 20 minutes. The container with the dogs landed safely 20 km from the launch site. No physiological changes or abnormalities were found in them. Dezik and Gypsy safely endured the overload and weightlessness. Only Gypsy received a minor injury upon landing - he scratched the skin on his stomach. He never took part in any more flights. The gypsy was taken to his home by the chairman of the State Commission for the Organization of Research on Geophysical Rocket, Academician A. A. Blagonravov.

Desik and gypsy before the flight

On July 29, 1951, the R-1B geophysical rocket was launched with dogs Dezik and Lisa on board. Desik was sent on the flight again to check how the dog would behave during preparation and launch for the second time. The rocket launched safely, but the parachute with the dogs did not appear at the appointed time. Some time later, the cabin with the dogs was found crashed on the ground. The investigation showed that strong vibration disabled the barorelet - a device that ensures the release of a parachute at a certain altitude. The parachute did not open and the head of the rocket crashed into the ground at high speed. Desik and Lisa died, becoming the first victims of the space program.

Their death caused serious worries among researchers, in particular S.P. Korolev. But after this incident, it was decided to develop a system for emergency ejection of passengers from the rocket in the event of an emergency. The death of the dogs served as a clue for further research into human flight.

The subsequent launch of the dogs Mishka and Chizhik on August 15, 1951 turned out to be successful: freed from trays and sensors, the dogs felt great and were affectionate, despite the fact that they had recently experienced severe overload.

The fourth launch of the dogs took place on August 19, 1951 - Smely and Ryzhik successfully flew on the R-1B rocket.

On August 28, 1951, Mishka and Chizhik went into space for the second time to test a new automatic pressure regulator in the cabin. The regulator malfunctioned, and the cabin with the dogs was depressurized at a high altitude; Mishka and Chizhik died from suffocation.

On September 3, 1951, Neputevy and ZIB (Spare Vanished Bobik) flew safely into space.

Second stage (1954-1957)

The second stage of research included testing a new system of ejection equipment and means of monitoring animals at all flight levels. The flights were carried out on R-1D and R-1E rockets to an altitude of 100-110 km. Each of the dogs was placed in a separate ejected cart, which was fired from the falling head part and lowered to the ground using a parachute.

On June 24, 1954, Fox (second) and Ryzhik (second) launched on an R-1D rocket. At an altitude of 75-80 km, Fox was ejected. A specially designed parachute opened in the rarefied layers of the atmosphere. For the first time in history, a living creature was in a spacesuit in outer space and was lowered to Earth by parachute.

On July 2, 1954, Mishka (the second) and Damka flew into space. The bear died, but the Lady returned safely.

On February 5, 1955, Lisa (the second) and Bulba went into space. Almost immediately, the R-1E missile deviated from its vertical course to the side. The stabilization rudders sharply returned the rocket to its original position. The impact was so strong that both carts with dogs pierced the rocket body and fell to the ground. The dogs died.

Linda

On November 4, 1955, Malyshka and Knopka flew into space on an R-1E rocket. The baby was ejected at an altitude of 90 km and remained alive.

On June 7 and 14, 1956, Kozyavka and Albina flew R-1E rockets twice in a row. One dog had an increase in heart rate both times, while the other had a decrease.

Kozyavka and Albina

Third stage (1957-1960)

The third stage of scientific research included flights of dogs on geophysical rockets R-2A and R-5A to altitudes from 212 to 450 km. In these flights, the dogs did not eject, but escaped along with the head of the rocket. In addition to dogs, there were white rats and mice in the cabin. Twice rabbits flew with the dogs. In some experiments, one of the dogs was sent into flight under anesthesia to clarify the mechanisms of shifts in physiological functions.

On May 24, 1957, Red and Joyna set off on an R-2A rocket. The dogs died due to depressurization of the cabin during flight.

On August 25 and August 31, 1957, Belka was sent under anesthesia on an R-2A rocket. The flights were successful.

On September 6, 1957, Belka and Fashionista flew into space on an R-2A rocket. The fashionista was under anesthesia. The flight was successful.

On February 21, 1958, Palma and Fluff flew. As a result of the depressurization of the cabin, both dogs died.

Kusachka, later renamed Otvazhnaya, and Palma (the second) launched twice in a row on August 2 and 13, 1958 on an R-2A rocket. Overloads ranged from 6 to 10 units. The flight was successful.

On August 27, 1958, Pestraya and Belyanka flew to an altitude of 453 km. This was the maximum height to which the dogs climbed during the entire time and returned safely. The flight was carried out on an R-5A rocket. Overloads ranged from 7 to 24 units. After the flight, the dogs returned extremely tired and were breathing heavily, although no abnormalities in their physiology were detected.

On October 31, 1958, Zhulba and Knopka (the second) went into space. During landing, the parachute system failed and the dogs died.

On July 2, 1959, Otvazhnaya (formerly Kusachka) and Snezhinka (later renamed Zhemchuzhnaya and then Zhulka) made a successful flight on an R-2A rocket. In the cabin with the dogs was the rabbit Gray (aka Marfushka). The rabbit was tightly cast with the head and neck fixed in relation to the body. This was necessary for accurate filming of his eye pupil. The experiment determined the muscle tone of the rectus eye muscles. The material obtained in this way indicated a decrease in muscle tone under conditions of complete weightlessness.

On June 15, 1960, Otvazhnaya and Malek flew on an R-2A rocket to an altitude of 206 km. Along with the dogs, there was a rabbit named Zvezdochka in the cabin. The dog Brave made its fifth flight on a rocket, setting a record for the most number of launches by dogs. Currently, the effigy of Brave is in the State Central Museum of Contemporary History of Russia.

Brave, Rabbit and Malek

On September 16, 1960, the successful flight of the dogs Palma (the second) and Malek ended a series of experiments on launching dogs on geophysical rockets.

We talked about experimental dog flights carried out in the USSR. But scientists from the Institute of Biophysics of the Chinese Academy of Sciences also conducted similar training for dogs for flight. Two dogs flew on rockets.

Dogs flying in spacecraft

Such flights involved orbital flights around the Earth for a long time at escape velocity. The main goal was to study the influence of space flight factors on the body of animals and other biological objects (overload, long-term weightlessness, the transition from overload to weightlessness and back), to study the effect of cosmic radiation on animal and plant organisms. Biomedical experiments and scientific research into outer space were also carried out. The flights of dogs on satellite ships were supposed to prove the safety of orbital space flights for humans

Monument to the dog Laika

Laika is the first animal launched into earth orbit on November 3, 1957 on the Soviet ship Sputnik 2 from the Baikonur Cosmodrome. The return of Laika to Earth was still technically impossible. The dog died during the flight - 5-7 hours after launch. She died from stress and overheating. In the picture you see the monument to Laika, which is installed on the territory of the Institute of Military Medicine.

On July 28, 1960, a new type of spacecraft, Vostok 1K No. 1, was launched with dogs Lisichka and Chaika. The fox was the favorite of General Designer S.P. Korolev, to whom he said before the flight: “I really want you to come back.” After 19 seconds, block “G” of the first stage of the launch vehicle collapsed, as a result of which it fell to the ground and exploded at the 38th second. The dogs died. After this incident, it was decided to develop an emergency rescue system for astronauts not only in flight, but also at the preparation and launch stages.

Chanterelle and Seagull

On August 19, 1960, Belka (the second) and Strelka went into space. Belka and Strelka became the first living creatures to complete a daily orbital flight and return safely. During this time, the ship made 17 complete revolutions around the Earth. Some time after landing, Strelka gave birth to healthy offspring - six puppies, one of which was sent as a gift to the wife of US President Jacqueline Kennedy.

Belka and Strelka

On December 1, 1960, the Vostok 1K No. 5 spacecraft was launched with the dogs Pchelka and Mushka on board. The daily orbital flight was successful, the ship made 17 orbits around the Earth, but at the final stage of deorbiting, due to the failure of the stabilization system of the braking propulsion system, the magnitude of the braking impulse turned out to be insufficient. The descent trajectory became flatter, which threatened to land a secret object on the territory of another country. The descent vehicle did not enter the atmosphere at the expected time and was blown up by the object's automatic detonation system (APO). The Bee and the Fly died.

Zhulka and Zhemchuzhina

On December 22, 1960, Zhulka and Zhemchuzhina (also known as Zhulka and Alpha, as well as Comet and Jester) launched on the Vostok 1K No. 6 ship. Zhulka already flew on geophysical rockets under the names Snezhinka and Zhemchuzhnaya in 1959. Some time after the launch, due to the destruction of the gas generator of the third stage of the launch vehicle, it was diverted away from the course. It was clear that she would not go into space. Having reached an altitude of only 214 km, there was an emergency separation of the descent module, which landed in Evenkia in the area of ​​the Podkamennaya Tunguska River (in the area of ​​the fall of the famous Tunguska meteorite). A group of scientists urgently flew to the crash area. Due to the difficulties of the search and the extremely low air temperature, the descent module was examined only on December 25. To the surprise of the rescuers, Zhulka and Zhemchuzhina were alive, although the rest of the animals with the dogs died. Subsequently, Zhulka was taken in by an aviation medicine specialist, academician Oleg Gazenko, and she lived with him for about 14 years. Based on these events, the feature film “Alien Ship” was shot in 1985.

On March 9, 1961, a successful flight of the dog Chernushka and a dummy nicknamed “Ivan Ivanovich” was carried out on the ship “Vostok ZKA No. 1”.

Chernushka

On March 25, 1961, the flight of the dog Luck took place, to which the first cosmonaut Yu. A. Gagarin gave the name Zvezdochka before the launch. The one-orbit flight on the Vostok ZKA No. 2 ship was successful. The dummy “Ivan Ivanovich” also flew along with the dog. Along the way, photo reconnaissance equipment was tested over objects in Turkey and Africa.

There were only 18 days left before the first man flew into space!

On February 22, 1966, as part of a project to prepare for a long-term human flight in space, mongrel dogs Veterok and Ugolyok flew on the biosatellite ship Kosmos-110. Its duration was 23 days. Until now, this flight is the longest for dogs. Breeze and Coal returned extremely exhausted, with fur worn down to the skin and bedsores. They could not stand on their feet and were constantly thirsty. But after some time they recovered completely. Subsequently, they gave birth to healthy offspring and lived in the vivarium of the Institute of Aviation and Space Medicine until the end of their days.

When this little rodent appears in your house - your new pet, in addition to the joyful moments of communication with this little animal, items of pleasant chores and responsibilities are also added to your list of daily tasks. So, in particular, you will now need to regularly clean the cage after your hamster and change its filler.

By the way, about the filler. Do you know that what type of filler you choose for a rodent cage depends not only on the frequency of cleaning the cage and your convenience in this matter, but also on the health of your little pet?

Today we will tell you about what types of fillers for rodent cages there are, how they differ from each other and which type of filler is still better. Ready? Then, go ahead - learn the ABCs of keeping a rodent in your home...

Why is filler needed?

First of all, let's answer the question - why is filler needed for a rodent cage? Is it really impossible to do without it? Theoretically, of course, it’s possible to get by, but in practice – it’s better if it’s in sufficient quantity – the entire tray of the cage should be covered with an even layer of such filler. This will make the hamster more comfortable and warmer, and it will be easier for you to clean his cage...
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Types of fillers for rodent cages

You already know that you can’t do without filler. Well, it's time to go get it to the nearest specialized pet store that sells products for animals, including hamsters. However, there is not just one type of filler on the counter, but several - and this significantly complicates your choice. You want your rodent to be comfortable and comfortable with this type of cage filling, and cleaning won’t cause you any unnecessary trouble, and let’s be honest – you had the opportunity to do it as rarely as possible, plus such a filler would absorb moisture and odors well ...

So, what kind of fillers are there?
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Newspapers as a filler option

Let's start with what is not sold in stores, but what you always have at hand - newspapers, old and unnecessary magazines. Once upon a time, at the dawn of keeping hamsters at home in three-liter glass jars, this was the most popular and cheapest option for filling a hamster’s home. But was it pleasant and comfortable for little rodents to spend the whole day surrounded by scraps of newspapers that smell like printing ink?

If hamsters could talk, they would definitely tell us that they simply hated us for this type of filler. The newspapers quickly became wet and damp, they did not absorb the specific smell of rodents, and the poor creature was forced to breathe in all this stench and silently curse us.

Fortunately, today the situation has changed, so those who continue to stick to their “newspaper” choice should think about finding a worthy alternative. Believe me, it will be easier for you and more enjoyable for the hamster. By the way, as soon as your hamster has not escaped from your “newspaper paradise”, you can only be surprised that he is still alive...
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Paper as a filler option

Well, someone will say, newspapers and magazines are not allowed, but what if you use blank paper instead? But here it is immediately necessary to make a clarification - which one? Hard paper is not suitable for a hamster, but soft napkins, in principle, he will like. But the issue of absorbing moisture and odors in this option for choosing a filler still remains open. Cardboard does not absorb moisture, and it simply makes the napkins “soggy.” It looks like we need to look for another, more worthy option...
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Cotton wool and fabric as a filler option

Your hamster looks like a fluffy bundle of joy, so you decided to fill his cage with cotton wool? It may look good from the outside, but in practice, since cotton wool has a fibrous structure, it can easily injure the small and delicate paws of a rodent, wrap around them, pull the paw and disrupt the animal’s blood circulation. You won’t even notice all this, and the life and health of your hamster will already be in danger.

The situation is similar with pieces of fabric - they pose a real threat to the life of a hamster. Now imagine if your Khomka suddenly decides to try all this on his teeth? Yes, the poor fellow will simply die in terrible agony from indigestion.

In addition, even if cotton wool and fabric absorb odors and moisture, they do not retain them. Ah, this is already a minus for you.
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Sawdust as a filler option

Remember Winnie the Pooh's song: “There is sawdust in my head...” Your hamster with this type of filler in his cage will soon begin to sing his song - “there is sawdust in my cage, and I am very happy about it...” And he will be partly right. Today, the sawdust option, compared to previous filler options, is the safest, most affordable and convenient for everyone.

This is convenient for you because sawdust is cheap, it absorbs moisture and odor, although it doesn’t retain it very well, but there should be a minus, at least on some side? In addition, with this type of filler, the cage can be washed once every 3 days, and this already saves your time and nerves. Your hamster also likes sawdust and for him it is relatively harmless and safe for health, the main thing is that he does not eat it and injure his cheek pouch. But only if your hamster has long, thick fur, the sawdust will constantly get tangled in it, and the hamster will look untidy.

The main thing is that your hamster is not allergic to wood, and that you have a powerful vacuum cleaner - sawdust is light, therefore, with every sharp turn around your hamster’s cage, it will fly all over your room.
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Pressed sawdust as a filler option

Such granulated sawdust has higher quality characteristics than simple sawdust. They retain odor better and absorb moisture faster, and a cage with this type of filler will need to be washed once every 5 days. True, they cost a little more than simple sawdust, but they guarantee more convenience for you and more safety and comfort for your hamster.

By the way, there is a small “but” - for dwarf species of hamsters, it would seem, well, much smaller than the Djungarian hamster?, such pressed granules are like real logs, therefore, your baby will not be entirely comfortable in such a filler. Plus, it is very important that the hamster is not allergic to wood...
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Cellulose filler

This option is created specifically for allergic hamsters who are allergic to wood. True, it is quite rare - a real shortage, but it has high characteristics of absorbing moisture and odors and guarantees the safety and health of your small rodent, even a very small breed.
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Corn type of filler

At the top of our pyramid of types of fillers for hamster cages is this particular type of filler. It is expensive, it is rare, but it has simply superb qualities - it retains moisture and odor so well that you can wash your hamster’s cage once every 10 days, or even less often, and is absolutely safe for the health and life of your hamster. True, there is a minus - corn filler is very, very light, so be prepared for the fact that in the morning mountains of such filler will rise near the hamster’s cage...

Video about keeping and caring for hamsters:

Now that you know everything about the types of fillers for rodent cages, it’s time to consult with your little friend and go to the nearest pet store to buy such a filler...

We are waiting for your feedback and comments, join our VKontakte group!

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Why do animals need bedding?

The method of use depends on the type of pet:

• mammalian predators (dogs, cats, raccoons, etc.) cover their excrement with bedding to hide their smell, so the “toilet” for the pet is installed outside its habitat;
• rodents defecate on the bedding, and also eat them from time to time (after all, many rodents are autocoprophages, that is, creatures that are not able to completely digest plant food the first time);
• Birds also defecate on the bedding, which absorbs their excrement, but spend most of their time above the bedding.

Most popular materials

All this allows determine bedding requirements, which should not interfere with pets’ needs, while absorbing liquid and not mixing with solid fractions of feces.

Various materials can be used as bedding, the most popular of which are:

• paper torn into small pieces;
• sand;
• clay;
• silicate filler (silica gel);
• filler made of pressed sawdust or paper;
• fresh sawdust.

Collecting papers for a small animal is not difficult, especially if you have a paper newspaper subscription. However, for a large animal it is not easy to collect the required amount of paper, so it is used only for hamsters, small rats and mice.

In addition, absorbing liquids the paper becomes limp and sticks to the floor, which makes it difficult to remove.

In addition, paper does not eliminate strong odor excrement, so soon the whole house will smell of pet waste products.

Sand is easy to buy in any city or town, but due to necessity change the contents of the tray at least every other day, even within a month you have to spend at least one bucket.

But it still needs to be put somewhere, and it is undesirable to throw sand into a garbage chute or trash can, so you will have to look for options for its disposal.

Stores offer a variety of litters suitable for use in such toilets, made from compressed sawdust or paper. Such fillers absorb liquid well and eliminate odor, but the cost of a 5 kg bag, which will last even a hamster for a maximum of a month, is rarely less than 400 rubles.

If you add it to a larger animal, you will need 1-3 bags per week, which is very expensive for the budget.

Sawdust is not inferior to sand, clay or silicate-based filler in its ability to absorb liquid and prevent the spread of odors, and cost 10–15 times cheaper.

You can read more about the cost of sawdust from various types of wood here.

If you don't know where to find good sawdust, we recommend reading this section.

How to choose sawdust?

When choosing sawdust, you need to consider factors such as:

• excrement moisture;
• pet habits.

The wetter the feces of a living creature, the smaller in size there must be sawdust to effectively absorb it.

On the other hand, for animals that bury or eat excrement, it is advisable to choose larger waste materials.

Rodents

The most popular rodents:

• hamsters;
• Guinea pigs;
• rats;
• chinchillas.

Hamsters

These chubby and funny rodents eat only plant foods, and they digest it several times, so they eat their feces.

Not only domestic but also wild hamsters do this, so don’t be afraid that they behave unnaturally.

Therefore, when choosing sawdust for them, it is necessary to take this feature into account and take the largest possible waste of any species, with the exception of oak.

After all, oak sawdust has sharp edges, so an animal with a small area of ​​legs and a relatively large weight will not be comfortable running on it.

In addition, animals sometimes collect (intentionally or accidentally) sawdust in their cheek pouches, so sharp waste can hurt them.

The most preferred waste is from sawing soft wood - pine, spruce, aspen, and fruit trees.

Despite their appearance, hamsters are very active and love to run, so sawdust flies out from under their paws, and dust fills the entire cage and often goes into the room, so it is advisable to sift the sawdust first.

If you have a long-haired hamster, then the best choice is large chips with a length of at least 10 mm and a thickness of tenths and hundredths of mm.

For these animals it is advisable to purchase dryest possible waste sawing wood (humidity 18% or less), because wetter material absorbs liquid and odor less well, so an unpleasant odor will appear in the cage faster.

Coniferous waste, especially pine and spruce, absorbs liquids better than deciduous ones, in addition, the high resin content to some extent eliminates the unpleasant odor inherent in excrement. Therefore, by filling them in, you can extend the period between cleaning the cage by 1 day, that is, clean it every 3-4 days.

Numerous online forums discuss various issues related to the selection and use of sawdust for hamsters.

1. Site for hamster lovers.
2. Hamster happiness.
3. Heroes of war and money.

Guinea pigs

Despite some similarities with hamsters and the need to eat their feces, guinea pigs are very different from hamsters in lifestyle and anatomy.

They don't have cheek pouches and they much less mobile than the latter due to much greater weight.

No cheek pouches forces pigs to constantly eat something, so they often even eat sawdust that fills the space under their toilet.

Moreover, their paws more sensitive to sharp wood chips, therefore, guinea pigs should not be provided with shavings or wood chips, but only with large sawdust from softwood.

The most preferred sawdust is:

• poplars;
• alders;
• linden;
• aspen;
• pine trees

Waste from sawing hardwood can be poured into the cage immediately.

They do not have a strong odor, and conifers need to be kept in a dry, ventilated place for at least a week so that they lose most of the smell, because it irritates animals and people.

In addition, it is very important to choose dust-free sawdust. If you were unable to buy dust-free sawdust, we recommend winnowing it before filling it into the cage.

The moisture content of wood sawing waste should be within 18–20%. Drier sawdust become too hard and sharp, and wetter ones absorb liquid and odor less well.

Regardless of whether you only poured sawdust into the toilet or sprinkled it all over the floor of the cage, you need to clean it after 2-3 days.

Overexposure for 1 day is permissible (although undesirable) only when using dry pine sawdust.

Indeed, within the framework of one article it is impossible to cover all the issues related to this topic:

1. Portal for guinea pig lovers.
2. Pigs ru.
3. Eva ru.

Chinchillas

These rather large rodents are very different from hamsters and pigs, because their habitat is desert highlands.

The animals are very strong and agile, accustomed to heavy loads.

They often eat sawdust, although they do not touch their feces, so it is advisable to use softwood material wood After all, in nature, chinchillas do not eat too solid food, making do with hay, grass and various fruits.

So it's good for them fit as dry as possible sawdust of any type of wood.

Rats

Domestic rats inherited from their wild ancestors great physical strength, the ability to survive in the most unfavorable conditions and a powerful mind.

Many scientists believe that rats are as intelligent as dolphins and crows.

Sawdust can be used as litter for the toilet and on the floor of the cage. any type of wood, because rats walk equally easily on soft as well as hard or sharp sawdust.

If you use the dryest possible pine sawdust, then the time between cage cleanings can be increased for 1 day.

Birds

Unlike rodents, birds rarely use the cage floor and bedding for movement, preferring to spend most of their time on various perches. In addition, the paws of small birds are adapted for moving along uneven branches, so they are not afraid of the sharp edges of sawdust.

Birdcages do not have a specific area designated for toileting because birds defecate anywhere. The only exceptions are the canopy-covered drinking bowl and feeder.

Fillers are needed to Makes the drawer easier to clean, because raking out the litter is much easier than washing the tray. The moisture content of wood sawing waste does not play a special role, because birds do not have a urinary system and the waste liquid is excreted along with feces and forms droppings.

The appearance of the smell is not related to the amount of free liquid, but to the total volume of the droppings and its moisture content - the more there is and the wetter it is, the stronger the smell.

Therefore in most cases the litter has time to dry out until enough mass has accumulated to produce an odor.

Although the grid-shaped floor makes it easier for droppings to get into the tray, it complicates cleaning and disinfection of the cage, because you have to wash not only the litter tray, but also the cage itself.

Because of this, cages that do not have a tray are more popular, and the floor is covered with various fillers that protect against contact with bird droppings. After all, removing old litter stained with droppings and adding new litter is much easier than washing the cage every time.

Parrots

These birds easy to train and unpretentious, Therefore, they are popular among pet lovers. In addition, parrots are very intelligent and have a distinct character, and also love to rake dirt or any litter poured into the bottom of the cage.

In addition, they often taste everything that is in the cage, not disdaining the bedding, so it is highly undesirable to cover the bottom with newspapers, because they contain lead.

It is good to use sawdust as a filler - after all, parrots often sit in trees, including those broken by the wind. Therefore, even sawdust from oak or larch, which has rather sharp edges, does not bother them.

Due to the habit of rowing everything that is poured onto the bottom of the cage, it is highly undesirable to use sawdust with a high dust content.

Indeed, in this case, dust will fill not only the cage, but also the room.

There are no preferences in choosing the type of wood from which sawdust is made.

Therefore for parrots Any clean waste will do sawing wood.

The presence of bark in them will not affect ability to absorb liquid and protect the bottom of the tray from excrement.

Due to the small size of sawdust (compared to compressed fillers), parrots do not perceive them as food, therefore eat very rarely.

Waste from sawing wood is also well suited as a bedding for parrots’ nests, because in nature they make a nest from various forest debris, which they collect from the nearby area.

Therefore, the offspring of parrots, having been born, will immediately find themselves in close to natural conditions, which has a beneficial effect on their health and development.

Important use wood sawing waste hardwoods, because conifers contain a lot of resin and can stick to bird feathers or laid eggs.

In addition, pine sawdust has a strong odor.

That's why if it is not possible to pour in leaf waste, then the conifers need to be carefully sorted, removing all sticky fragments.

After this, you should keep them in a ventilated area for a couple of weeks to remove the smell.

1. Parrotts ru.
2. Forum about budgies.
3. Parrot forums.
4. Maybirds.

Canaries

Like parrots, canaries build their nest from all sorts of forest debris, Therefore, sawdust is the optimal material for adding to the cage.

The most preferred waste is soft hardwood, such as poplar or willow, but if these are not available, you can use birch or beech, or any other hardwood.

Coniferous wood sawing waste must be carefully sifted removing sticky fragments and ventilating to get rid of the smell.

cat litter

Cats are much larger animals than hamsters or guinea pigs.

They cannot be locked in a small enclosure because they love freedom and open space.

To prevent cats from relieving themselves throughout the house or apartment, they are given a place, where they put a tray (cat litter) with a special filler.

It is very important that the cat can not only relieve itself, but also bury urine and feces, it's an innate reflex necessary for survival in natural conditions.

Therefore, it is very important to choose the right filler, which should:

• block odors when sprinkled on cat feces;
• be free-flowing and mobile;
• absorb liquid;
• consist of natural materials.

Most often as a filler cat or dog litter box use regular or compressed sawdust, as well as pellets made from pressed sawdust and wood dust.

Ordinary sawdust in its structure much closer to clay or sand, that is, the materials most preferred by any animal cat breeds than pressed ones.

In addition, compressed sawdust and a mixture of sawdust and wood dust, absorbing moisture from cat urine, become limp, turning into a thick porridge. This mess makes it difficult to clean the litter box and prevents cats from relieving themselves.

For large animals (cats, dogs, raccoons, etc.), pine sawdust is preferable, because it absorbs moisture better, so the tray smells much less strongly of the animal’s secretions.

It's special important for owners of small apartments people who keep large animals at home that excrete large amounts of excrement.

In addition, pine sawdust, even after several months of storage and ventilation, retains a weak, barely noticeable odor, which to some extent fulfills deodorant function.

After all, even a filler made from pressed sawdust, clay, silicates or sand cannot completely absorb the smell of animal excretions, so a small deodorizing effect of pine waste will be very useful.

In addition, sawdust from a sawmill or the nearest woodworking enterprise not only are not inferior in efficiency pressed materials, but also are much cheaper. At the same time, they definitely do not contain any additional flavorings, which often cause allergies in animals and their owners.

Therefore, sawdust is well suited as a litter box filler not only for cats, but also for any other large pets living in an apartment and unable to relieve themselves outside.

Some animals love to rummage intensely in a tray, scattering the filler throughout the room, so it is advisable to choose clean sawdust without dust and bark for them.

If the animal does not have such a habit, then any waste from sawing wood can be poured into the tray.

The only drawback of sawdust appears only with very fluffy animals - the longer and thicker their fur, the higher the likelihood that pieces of tray filler will get tangled in it.

But here you have to choose - either an effective, natural and inexpensive filler, which sometimes gets tangled in the fur, or something artificial, not very useful for the animal, but which does not cling to the fur.

Sand, clay and silica gel fillers absorbs moisture well and retains odor, but cause irritation in some animals.

Yes, and dispose of such used filler more difficult than sawdust. Granules made from pressed sawdust are less likely to stick to wool, but after absorbing moisture they become limp and stick to the animal’s paws and the walls of the tray.

Many manufacturers praise their products, but do not indicate the exact composition on the packaging, so such fillers are also often cause allergies in pets.

Because of this, animals become irritable and restless, and birds often refuse to hatch eggs.

Therefore, it is very important to choose a filler or bedding made from natural ingredients.

Disposal of used filler and bedding

Used sawdust, like any other cat litter or bedding for small animals and birds, they smell bad, because they are impregnated with fecal matter.

Therefore, it is not advisable to throw them in the trash, because the smell will not go away and will spread throughout the apartment.

But you can immediately throw it in the garbage chute or a trash can installed next to the house. Such sawdust is ordinary household waste, so it can be thrown away under general conditions.

In addition, sawdust soaked in urine and feces is an excellent fertilizer, but due to its unpleasant odor it is difficult to store or transport for a long time.

That's why as fertilizer they are used only in rural areas, where it is not far from a house or apartment to the cultivated field.

In this case, it’s easy to take it out or take it out to the field 1-2 times a week and put it there in a small pile so that they gradually rot.

Any other fillers or bedding can be used as fertilizer, but only products based on clay and wood completely rot, turning into humus.

Materials based on silicates, basalt sand and various synthetic substances only clog the garden and make the soil less fertile, because they either do not decompose over time or release substances that poison the soil.

Price of fillers

If you buy fresh sawdust at a sawmill or any woodworking enterprise, their price will be 100–150 rubles per bag weighing 25 kg.

At the same time, packaged sawdust for animals in stores will cost 3–7 times more expensive, and pressed sawdust will cost 10 or more times more, so it is much more profitable than them buy not in the store, but where they are produced.

For greater clarity, we have compiled a table that includes various fillers and bedding that can be bought in stores or ordered online, as well as information about how much it costs to purchase them in other publicly available places:

Name or brand	Weight and volume of contents	Short description	Price per package rubles	Price in rubles per kg or l
Sawdust	25 kg/200 l	Regular sawdust, which can be bought at any sawmill or in the nearest carpentry shop	100-150	4–5 rubles per kg or 50–70 kopecks per liter
Catsan	5 l	A mixture of quartz sand, chalk and other minerals	360	72 rubles per liter
IMPERIAL CARE	6 l/6 kg	A mixture of clay with unknown components (not listed on the packaging), as well as the smell of baby powder	660	110 rubles per l/kg
Fluffy tail	3.8 l/3.8 kg	The composition is unknown, it is only stated that it is made from “natural ingredients”	265	70 rubles per l/kg
Green tea	4.5 l/1.5 kg	Pressed cedar granules with the addition of green tea leaves	469	310 rubles per kg or 104 rubles per liter
Barsik	4.5 kg/ 4.5 l	Pounded clay	100	22 rubles per l/kg
Padovan SANIPET	10 l /2.5 kg	Dried and crushed corn cobs with lemon flavor (flavor composition unknown), suitable for feeding to any birds and animals	550	55 rubles per liter or 220 rubles per kg
FIORY Woody	14 l/3 kg	Regular sawdust in polyethylene packaging, suitable for any animals and birds	206	14 rubles per liter or 70 rubles per kg

Video on the topic

From this video you will find out whether it is worth overpaying for sawdust (comparing expensive sawdust with cheap):

Conclusion

The right choice of litter or bedding for your pet is no less important than the right choice of food.

Wherein expensive products, praised by sellers in stores, are not always suitable. After all, when choosing a bedding or filler, you need to focus not only on the beautiful packaging and pleasant smell, but also on the effect it has on your pet.

Therefore, natural sawdust from the nearest sawmill or wood processing plant is much better suited for most pets than any other means.

rcycle.net

Intolerance

Allergies to rodents are common. Many people feel unwell after interacting with these animals. Watery eyes intensify, a runny nose and cough appear, spots appear on the allergy sufferer’s body, sometimes a rash appears, and itching is felt. Many people are familiar with these symptoms firsthand.

Sawdust is the most popular filler for the cage where the hamster lives. The huge advantages of wood shavings are ease of use, as well as the price of the sawdust itself.

Interesting! Allergies are caused by mold fungi contained in wood filler particles.

Causes

Today, the following risk factors for a person developing an allergy to hamster sawdust are identified:

• heredity;
• weakened immune system;
• problems with the gastrointestinal tract;
• liver and kidney diseases;
• artificial feeding;
• smoking and alcohol abuse;
• contaminated air;
• junk food, drink.

Symptoms

For most people, the symptoms of sawdust allergy are mostly similar:

• bad feeling;
• headache;
• increased tearfulness;
• sneezing and coughing;
• nasal congestion and swelling of the mucous membrane;
• redness of the skin, urticaria, itching;
• swelling of the face or whole body (Quincke's edema);
• anaphylactic shock.

Prevention

To know what kind of help an allergy sufferer should receive, you first need to make sure that the person really suffers from allergies. After all, very often people confuse the symptoms of this disease with signs of other diseases, for example, influenza and ARVI. And to dot all the i's, you need to consult an allergist.

If the symptoms experienced by a person are indeed a manifestation of an allergy to sawdust, the doctor will prescribe appropriate treatment. First of all, it is necessary to minimize contact with your allergen. We are talking about sawdust used as a filler for the cage. It is advisable to find an alternative to wood shavings, for example, clay or corn filler, because otherwise the life of an allergy sufferer with the allergen will become unbearable.

Treatment

A person cannot completely protect himself from harmful substances and bacteria. Unfortunately, no place has yet been invented where an allergic person could hide from his allergens, so such a person should always have antihistamines in his medicine cabinet.

These are medications aimed at reducing allergy symptoms.

These medications include the following medications:

• Xizal;
• Erius;
• Zyrtec;
• Tavegil;
• Suprastin;
• Zodak;
• Claritin.

Antihistamine sprays can also be used. For example, these include the following drugs:

• Allergodil;
• Tizin Alerji;
• Cromohexal.

Important! The choice of means that are effective in the fight against allergies is great. However, before purchasing this or that drug, you should consult a doctor!

Urgent help

Quincke's edema and anaphylactic shock will require immediate attention. And the first step to save an allergic person who exhibits such signs is to call a doctor.

If angioedema occurs, after calling an ambulance you need to:

• clear the airways;
• check for breathing;
• check pulse and blood pressure.

Further actions must be carried out with the permission of the doctor. For example, cardiopulmonary resuscitation and the administration of medications (adrenaline, hormones, antihistamines), if available, may be necessary.

If the victim has anaphylactic shock, you need to:

• put the patient on the floor;
• clear the airways;
• turn your head to the side if the patient is vomiting;
• pull out the tongue if the allergic person is unconscious;
• open the windows so that the victim can breathe easier;
• monitor your pulse and breathing; if the heartbeat is not felt, you need cardiopulmonary
• resuscitation, and sometimes chest compressions.

Traditional methods

As an auxiliary therapy, you can use the recommendations of traditional medicine:

1. Honeycombs, if they are not an allergen for the patient, can relieve a person from allergies. You need to chew them twice a day for 15 minutes. The course of such tasty treatment is six months.
2. Garlic can also be an effective remedy in the fight against allergies, you just need to know how to use it correctly. This vegetable must be crushed to a pulp, then wrapped in gauze and the contents of this bag rubbed into the spine for a week (at night).
3. An effective remedy for allergies is a lentil bath. You need to boil the grains of this plant in a saucepan for 15 minutes. After the specified time, the contents of the container should be poured into the bath and sit in it for 20-30 minutes. By the way, you shouldn’t ignore dishes made from these legumes. They are not only tasty, but also healthy.

Doctors very often repeat that the best treatment is prevention. Don't neglect going to the clinic. It is important to be regularly examined and monitored by your doctor to catch the disease at an early stage. And we're not just talking about allergies.

To overcome attacks of allergy to your pet’s litter, you must follow the following recommendations:

1. Remember to regularly check the expiration dates of antihistamines in your medicine cabinet.
2. Allergy can “visit” the patient at any time. And you must always be prepared for such “arrivals”.
3. Our health is directly related to what we eat. To forget about problems with your body, you need to radically change your diet. Healthy food should replace junk food: fruits, vegetables, dairy products, dietary meat, cereals.
4. Say a firm “no” to bad habits. A cigarette looks beautiful only in a photo; in real life, watching a person smoke is disgusting. Moreover, it’s hard not only to watch, but also to breathe.
5. Get some exercise. In a healthy body healthy mind. A few outdoor activities and you won’t even notice how you’ll get involved in the sport.

conclusions

Avoid contact with your allergen. If this is not possible, minimize them. Wood shavings for filling the cage, as already noted, can be replaced. Fortunately, it's the 21st century.

Lead a healthy lifestyle. The human body is not a garbage can to stuff it with all sorts of nasty things. Diet food can be not only healthy, but also tasty. And today there are a huge number of recipes for preparing such dishes.

allergolog.online

How to choose cage filler

There are several options for materials that act as litter for rodent litter. Next, we will look at each of them in detail, and you will decide which one is right for you.

Newspaper

Once upon a time, newspapers were the only material that acted as filler for a three-liter jar (and then they were used as a home for rodents). But now is a different time. Now every hamster owner has the opportunity to choose a safer material for arranging the cage.

There are several arguments that are not in favor of a newspaper toilet for a rodent.

• First, newspapers contain lead, which is used in printing ink. It causes irreparable harm to the health of the animal. Your pet not only breathes lead fumes, but will also definitely try the filler on his teeth.
• Secondly, the hamster can get hurt by newspapers. The hard and sharp edges of newspapers pose a danger to your pet's delicate body.
• Thirdly, newspaper is not endowed with the ability to retain moisture and unpleasant odors. This means that you will have to clean your pet's cage quite often. Otherwise, your apartment will be enveloped in unpleasant odors.

Newspaper is not the best litter for hamsters! Use it only in the most extreme cases, when there is nothing else at hand.

Paper

Paper can also act as litter for a hamster's litter box. But any paper will not be suitable for these purposes. When choosing this material, make sure that the paper is not hard and sharp. Otherwise, the pet may hurt itself.

The ideal filling would be either napkins or toilet paper. This material breaks easily and will make any rodent happy. But this filler also has negative sides.

Just like newspaper, paper retains odors and moisture. Therefore, you will have to clean the cage very often.

Rags and cotton wool

This type of hamster litter is very unsafe for your pet. It is more suitable for arranging his “bed”. And acting as bedding, this material can entangle the animal’s paws, which is very dangerous for its health.

Sawdust

Sawdust is one of the cheapest and most preferred fillers for Djungarian hamsters, which are quite picky in choosing bedding for their home. Buying such a bedding will not be difficult. This filler, unlike the above, has the property of absorbing unpleasant odors and moisture. This litter needs to be changed every 2 - 4 days.

Sawdust, like other filler materials, also has its negative sides. Let's look at some of them:

• the possibility of an allergic reaction to a certain type of sawdust;
• It is possible that your pet may become infected and, during “tasting” the sawdust, may injure the cheek pouch. Remember! Your pet will definitely want to taste the sawdust;
• in a hamster with long hair, sawdust will tangle it, thus forming a tangle;
• Since sawdust will fly in all directions, you will have to constantly clean up near the pet’s cage.

If these arguments don’t scare you, all that remains is to find out how much sawdust for hamsters costs, and after purchasing, you can safely use it as flooring in your pet’s cage.

Pressed sawdust (wood)

If we compare this filler with the previous one, it absorbs odors much better (2-3 times). It only needs to be changed once a week. It does not fly in all directions, does not tangle the rodent's fur, and cannot injure its cheeks.

Like other materials, pressed sawdust also has a number of disadvantages:

• an allergic reaction to wood dust is possible;
• The size of the pellets is a nuisance for hamsters, especially if they are a dwarf breed.

Cellulose litter for hamsters

When compared with pressed sawdust, this filler is not in the same demand. It has much smaller granules in size and also weighs less. It is ideal for dwarf hamsters, as well as for those individuals who suffer from allergies.

Cellulose filler is not dangerous for your animal. Such bedding will not get tangled in your pet’s fur and will not damage its cheek pouches.

But the owner will have to endure some inconveniences:

1. running around the cage, the hamster will spread the filler in all directions, which means it will need to constantly clean around the cage;
2. Cellulose does not absorb odors well and therefore requires frequent replacement.

Corn litter for hamster

This material is the best filler for your pet's cage. But it has a significant drawback - the price.

But the cost of such a filler is fully justified positive qualities:

• the filler copes remarkably well with unpleasant odors and moisture (requires replacement only once every 7-10 days, sometimes less often);
• hypoallergenic;
• allows your pet to feel as comfortable as possible (hamsters love to burrow and dig in it).

Corn litter is ideal for your pet's toilet. But he also has negative sides, which can only be felt by the hamster’s owner:

• scatters well, promises frequent cleaning around the cage;
• too expensive a pleasure;
• quite noisy;
• problems with its acquisition (due to the high cost, such a product is difficult to find in small towns).

comparison table

Filler	Replacement frequency	Retention of unpleasant odors on a scale of 10	Safety for pets (1 – very dangerous, 10 – completely safe)
Newspaper	several times a day	1	5
White stationery paper	several times a day	1	5
Toilet paper or napkins	daily	2	8
Rags and cotton wool	several times a day	1	2
Sawdust	2-4 days	5	5
Pressed sawdust	4-6 days	7	4
	1-2 days	4	6
Corn	7-10 days	10	8

Results

In conclusion, I would like to say that litter for hamsters is not necessary; everyone has the right to decide for themselves whether bedding is needed in your pet’s cage or whether the rodent can do without it. In any case, now you know what bedding is needed for hamsters and you will certainly make the right choice in the store.

moy-homyachok.ru

Hay

This material is considered quite acceptable for a domestic rodent. You can buy it ready-made at a pet store, or you can make it yourself - pick the herbs and dry it thoroughly.

Hay is not an environmentally friendly bedding material, but it is close to the natural living conditions of a rodent and is inexpensive. A pet can not only enjoy pieces of dried grass, but also make a nest out of it for future offspring.

Such bedding for the Djungarian hamster, as well as other breeds of the Hamyakov family, must meet the following standards:

• safety (absence of sticks and branches that could injure the animal);
• high degree of moisture absorption and unpleasant odors;
• light structure that does not prevent the rodent from moving and digging.

Wood shavings

This is perhaps the most common filler used by many livestock farmers. Moreover, it is inexpensive. First of all, sawdust is needed for Djungarian hamsters. Since this breed is especially picky in choosing flooring.

The advantages of this material include:

• affordable price;
• safety;
• availability of large, small and even granular material for sale.

The choice of such cage bedding depends on the breed and size of the animal. For example, small sawdust is suitable for small animals; granules can be used for large animals.

The disadvantages of this material include poor moisture absorption. In addition, domestic rodents scatter light sawdust outside the cage.

Pressed wood

This material is considered another economical and pet-friendly option. To make pellets, grass or wood is used. Unlike lumpy litter, this material is difficult to clean up. Because it is very difficult to distinguish clean granules from contaminated ones. Another drawback is that this material contains a lot of dust, which is very harmful for your pet.

The advantages of granular litter include environmental friendliness and good odor absorption.

Another disadvantage of this material is that the rodent eats it and there is a risk of injury to the cheek pouches. After ingesting the pellet, he can easily become poisoned and die. But this is a fixable issue; such bedding can be replaced with another one. Some livestock breeders quite successfully use special sand for chinchillas. The hamster does not eat such material.

Cellulose bedding

Cellulose checkered filler is an excellent alternative to dusty and uncomfortable wood filler. It is best suited for rodents with allergies. Its structure is something between wood pellets and sawdust. Therefore, such material will be comfortable for a dwarf rodent and quite safe.

Cellulose filler has one drawback - it is poor absorption of moisture and unpleasant odors.

Clay bedding

This is a lumpy material that is very easy to use. Its cost is relatively low compared to other types of flooring. However, many livestock breeders refuse it due to the fact that it contains quartz dust that is harmful to hamsters.

An ideal replacement for such material would be a lumpy mixture of corn or wheat cobs.

Corn flooring

This is the best material that can be used for flooring a hamster's house. In terms of its qualities, it surpasses even shavings. The only question is how much does such flooring cost? Depending on the brand, the price of corn litter can vary from 100 to 400 rubles. But you can’t change it often. Because this material perfectly retains all odors, even if you put it in a thin layer.

The second advantage of corn filler is the absence of dust, which can cause allergies in a hamster. This is an environmentally friendly material.

This is a safe litter for the Djungarian hamster. Due to its versatility, it is also used for other rodents of the Hamyakov family.

Cat litter

A fairly good option for bedding for hamsters, but provided that it does not contain any dyes or flavors. It is best to use wood material. Never use cat silicate flooring, as the substance it contains can corrode the animal’s delicate and tiny paws.

Mineral flooring is also not suitable. It has poor moisture absorption and contains clay. And as you know, clay turns into mud after contact with liquid.

We have looked at all kinds of bedding for your hamster, which can be purchased at any pet store. You can make bedding for your pet yourself using available materials.

Home made flooring

Alternatively, you can use decking that you make yourself. There are several types of materials from which you can make such insulation for your pet.

Paper flooring

This is an economical and quite affordable material that is inexpensive. It is very important that the paper is soft and without any inscriptions. Remember, stationery paints are very toxic to your pet and can cause food poisoning. The rodent will certainly want to taste it. Hard paper can injure your hamster.

You can use napkins and toilet paper. This is a fairly safe material. The main thing is that the material used is white, without flavors or inscriptions. Wipes are great for hamsters who are allergic to simple sawdust and wood dust.

Wood mixture

Material made from wood chips has proven itself well. You can use small twigs and tops of fruit trees as flooring. You can add pine sawdust to them. The main thing is that they are well dried and do not contain piercing or cutting objects that are dangerous to the life and health of the rodent.

Another important point - if you have chosen shavings from coniferous trees, it is best to give preference to pine or spruce. It is not recommended to use shredded cedar wood. The aromatic oils they contain can cause illness and poisoning in domestic rodents.

Wool flooring

Many inexperienced livestock breeders line the cage with cotton wool. In fact, cotton wool is not the best material for insulating the bottom of a cage. It is dangerous for both adults and children.

There were often cases when adult rodents became entangled in cotton wool and broke their legs. The offspring that are born can become entangled in cotton wool and simply suffocate. The only advantage of this material is that the hamster does not eat it. But it’s better not to take risks and use paper or sawdust instead of cotton wool.

Conclusion

Now you know which type of litter for hamsters is best, and you can make the right choice. Of course, you can do without flooring, but with it your furry will feel much warmer, cozier and more comfortable.

slonvkvartire.ru

You can now find many options for fillers; even in the smallest pet stores there are usually 2-3 fundamentally different types of fillers suitable for use in a hamster cage. Moreover, their “fundamental difference” lies not only in the material from which the filler is made, but also in weight, and in the danger for the hamster, and in the ability to absorb moisture and unpleasant odors... In other words, you should pay special attention to the choice of filler.

1. Newspapers. Apparently, this still relatively popular filler option is a legacy of those times when hamsters were kept in three-liter jars and fed cabbage and bread crusts. But if at that time such a choice could still be explained (after all, there was no choice at all, other options for the fillers used were no better than scraps of newspaper), now it seems simply amazing. And it’s not just that printing ink, to put it mildly, is harmful to the hamster. This filler option does not fulfill its main function: it does not retain moisture and odor at all. And as a result, the little animal successfully spoils its health while it sleeps in newspaper scraps or chews them into shreds, and the smell from the cage is the same as from a cage without any filler at all. In other words, this filler does not have a single positive characteristic at all, since it is difficult to call it a filler.

2. Blank paper. It is worth making a reservation - “depending on what kind”. Hard paper with “sharp” edges has no place in a hamster’s cage; chewing it can cause injury to the animal. But clean white napkins, paper handkerchiefs or toilet paper (unscented) are excellent materials for nest building. They can be chewed into paper dust, fluffed up like a feather bed... And the animal will sleep in such a nest both warmly and comfortably. However, this is also not a filler, since soft napkins and handkerchiefs perform the main function of a filler not much better than torn newspapers - they do not retain moisture or odor.

3. Cotton wool or “cotton for hamsters”, rags. Yes, every hamster would not mind living in a large, soft, warm ball of cotton wool or soft rags. And yet it is worth remembering that a hamster does not always know what is best and safest for him; identifying and eliminating danger is the responsibility of a caring owner. And even the softest lump of cotton wool, unfortunately, has a fibrous structure. And if for a person the fibers of cotton wool are soft, delicate and fragile, then for the tiny delicate paws of a hamster, each fiber of cotton wool is a thin rope. And sometimes a hamster living in cotton wool manages to wrap these fibers around its leg in such a way that it overtightens it and loses a limb. Is it worth talking about fabrics made from much thicker and stronger threads?.. In other words, cotton wool and rags are dangerous for the hamster, and therefore they should not be in the animal’s cage. And, again, the ability to retain moisture and odor well is not one of the advantages of these materials.

4. Sawdust. Perhaps this is now the most popular type of litter for all types of rodents. Bags of sawdust are inexpensive and are sold almost everywhere. The moisture and smell of sawdust are poorly retained, but they are retained. So, you have to change the filler in the cage of a Syrian hamster, if it lives in sawdust, every 2-4 days, that is, just after 2-4 days the cage begins to smell unpleasant. However, sawdust also has a number of significant disadvantages. In long-haired hamsters, they get tangled in the fur, forming tangles, so they have to be cut and combed every day. If a hamster collects sawdust in its cheek pouches (either intentionally or accidentally), it has a good chance of scratching its cheek pouch and even dying due to infection. There are hamsters who are allergic to wood dust; for them, sawdust is a source of constant discomfort. Another disadvantage of sawdust, which is significant for the owner of a hamster, is that the sawdust is very light, so from under the paws of a running hamster they scatter literally throughout the entire room in which the cage is located.

5. Wood filler (pressed sawdust). This filler level is noticeably higher than ordinary sawdust. Its ability to retain moisture and odor is approximately 2-3 times better than that of sawdust: if a Syrian hamster lives in wood filler, the smell appears only 5-8 days after changing the filler. It costs noticeably more than sawdust, but this type of filler does not have almost all the disadvantages of sawdust. It doesn’t get tangled in fur, doesn’t fly around the apartment, and doesn’t scratch the cheek pouches. The disadvantages of wood filler include the presence of wood dust (this type of filler is also unacceptable for hamsters with a wood dust allergy) and the rather large size of the cylindrical granules. Even if you take fine wood filler, its granules are still too large for dwarf hamsters, and it is very uncomfortable for them to live in such filler.

6. Cellulose filler. Option for hamsters with wood dust allergies. This litter is less popular than wood options and is generally more difficult to find in pet stores. It retains moisture and odor worse than wood filler (approximately at the level of sawdust), but it physically does not contain wood dust, so allergic hamsters can live in it. This litter is finer and lighter than wood litter, so some of it will fly out of the cage during periods of activity of the hamster. Otherwise, this type of filler has similar characteristics to wood filler: it does not get tangled in wool and is not dangerous for the cheek pouches. Fine cellulose filler can also be used in the cages of dwarf hamsters - it is much smaller and lighter than the smallest wood filler.

If you create a pyramid of filler types with the better options above the less good ones, then corn litter will be at the top. It is quite expensive, and can only be found on sale in large cities. But it is actually worth the money that sellers ask for it. Corn filler retains moisture and odor better than all the options listed above. So, if a Syrian hamster lives in corn litter, then after changing the litter, an unpleasant odor appears no earlier than 7-10 days (and sometimes later). This litter contains no wood dust and will not injure your hamster or get tangled in its fur. Finally, it is so small that even the smallest hamster lives very comfortably in corn litter. It has only one drawback - low weight. Hamsters love to dig with this litter so much that mountains of corn litter grow overnight around the cages of some of the most enthusiastic “diggers.”

shkolazhizni.ru

Which litter is best for a hamster?

When choosing a filler for your hamster’s cage, you must be guided by several mandatory points that a good and high-quality filler should contain. A good litter should absorb moisture well, be clean, absorb odors, and be free of fragrances and completely suit your furry pet. A good filler must be relatively soft and safe. In this article we will look at the most common types of litter used in hamster cages.

Newspaper as a filler for a hamster

Perhaps, in our time, as in Soviet times, there are still people who fill the cages of their pets with scraps of newspapers. And if earlier this could be explained by the fact that it was impossible to find anything else in the markets, now such a filler looks wild. First of all, dye from newsprint is harmful to your hamster. Secondly, it is not able to absorb moisture and odors. An animal living in such a litter will never be healthy, so under no circumstances should you put newspaper at the bottom of the cage.

The same applies to napkins or paper.

Cotton wool and fabrics as filler for a hamster

Of course, every hamster would happily live in lumps of warm fabric or cotton wool. But we must remember that the animal does not always know what is best for it and all responsibility for its health falls on the shoulders of the owner. It is strictly forbidden to cover the bottom of the cage with fabrics or cotton wool because the hamster’s small paws can get tangled in the threads. It often comes to the point that the animal simply loses its limb.

Sawdust as a filler for a hamster

The most popular filler these days is definitely sawdust. They are not expensive and do not retain moisture and odors well. But sawdust also has significant disadvantages. Firstly, in long-haired hamsters, sawdust can become entangled in the fur and form tangles. Secondly, some hamsters are allergic to wood dust. Thirdly, by putting sawdust into the cheek pouches, a hamster can harm itself by scratching the inside of its cheeks.

Pressed sawdust, also known as wood filler

This filler has significantly more advantages than conventional sawdust. It does not get tangled in fur, does not scratch cheeks and absorbs moisture and odors better. However, such a filler also does not eliminate the possibility of an allergic reaction to wood dust. In addition, it costs significantly more.

Corn litter as a litter for a hamster

The best type of filler is, of course, corn filler. This type of filler absorbs moisture best, does not have wood dust, does not get tangled in fur and is not capable of injuring the animal. Unfortunately, it is expensive, and in small towns it is almost impossible to find. But in general, it is worth the money that the manufacturer demands for it.

There is no need to skimp on your pet's happiness. After all, his life, as you know, is not so long.

dogicat.ru

Which filler to choose - a brief overview

Hay

Hay

A good filler for a cage is hay. You can buy it in a store or prepare it yourself by picking it in the field. No one guarantees environmental purity, but hay is closest to natural habitat conditions. The hamster will make a cozy nest out of it and feast on it according to his mood.

In pet stores you can find several bedding options that differ in price and other parameters. Filler for Djungarians and Syrians must meet the following criteria:

Be safe;
absorb unpleasant odors and absorb moisture;
the structure of the material should be light so that it is easy for the hamster to dig into it.

Sawdust

Sawdust

Sawdust is a universal filler for the Djungarian hamster. By the way, dwarfs are more picky in choosing bedding, perhaps this is due to their tiny size. Sawdust for hamsters is a noticeable leader in sales.

Advantages

Safe for health;
small and large types of sawdust are available for sale;
Djungarians love to dig and burrow, so this is an ideal option for them;
availability and low price are decisive factors in favor of the presented filler.

It's up to you to decide which sawdust is best for your dzhungarik. Many people like granular ones - they are convenient to clean, some are small, some are large.

Flaws

They are light in weight, so kids throw them outside the cage;
If we talk about the properties of absorbing unpleasant odors, sawdust is not a standard option.

To find out how much sawdust for hamsters costs, just go on an excursion to the nearest pet store. The price will pleasantly surprise you.

Wood filler

Wood granular filler

Another good and inexpensive bedding option is wood filler. It is called pressed sawdust.

Granular litter made from grass and wood is perfect for a hamster's toilet. The downside is that it is not as easy to clean up as clumpy litter, since it is difficult to distinguish between dirty granules and clean ones. The advantages more than cover this disadvantage: herbal and wood fillers are environmentally friendly and absorb odors well.

The habit of snacking on lunch with wood filler is unsafe; the baby can damage the cheek pouches, and if he swallows synthetic granules, he can be poisoned.

It’s easy to wean your baby off a bad habit - choose a different filler. Many hamsters like chinchilla sand.

Advantages: absorbs odors better, but costs more.

Flaws: there is wood dust, which negatively affects rodents. In addition, the granules are quite large; it is inconvenient for the tiny dwarf to live on such bedding.

If the baby is allergic to wood dust, such bedding for a Djungarian hamster will not be suitable; in this case, cellulose bedding is better.

The correct choice of filler is no less important than the correct choice of cage. If you have not yet purchased a cage, we strongly recommend reading the article on choosing a cage for dwarf hamsters or a cage for Syrian hamsters.

Cellulose filler

Cellulose filler

Cellulose filler is an ideal option for allergic rodents. The structure is something between the fillers described above. This bedding weakly absorbs odor and moisture, but is absolutely safe for the baby. The granules are small in size, which is very important for dwarf breeds.

Lumpy clay litter

Clay filler

Easy to use clumping clay litter. Many hamster breeders refuse it because they claim that the composition contains quartz dust that is harmful to the hamster; they prefer fillers made from wheat or corn cobs.

If corn filler had participated in the rating, it could have been given 1st place without a twinge of conscience. It is ideal for hamsters, even better than shavings. The obvious disadvantage is the high cost. But you can change it less often - corn filler holds unpleasant odors well. Even if you pour a thin layer, you will not hear any unpleasant odors, and the hamster will be able to move comfortably. The products do not contain wood dust, therefore they are absolutely safe for rodent health.

If you have not yet decided what kind of bedding to use for hamsters so that they can dig and rummage in it with pleasure, try corn. It can be placed on rodents of different breeds: both Syrian and Djungarian hamsters will appreciate your efforts.

Cat litter

Choosing the right litter for a hamster is a responsible task. A good option is unscented cat litter, but only if it is natural, without fragrances or dyes. You can use wood but not silicate, which contains substances that corrode the delicate skin on the paws of rodents. In addition, it has sharp granules and can injure the animal, which negatively affects the quality of the wool. You should not use mineral, as it does not retain moisture well, and since it is based on clay, dirt will quickly dilute. Cellulose filler does not absorb moisture as well as wood filler.

Bedding made from scrap materials

It is not difficult to make a bedding for a hamster with your own hands, but you cannot use newspapers or hard paper for this. This is explained by the fact that the baby will taste it all; newspaper paint is unlikely to be useful.

Paper napkins

Many people are interested in the question of whether it is possible to give napkins to a hamster. If they are without drawings, paint or flavorings, just plain white, then you can. This is a good alternative to wood fillers if your baby is allergic to wood dust. Therefore, if you don’t know what to replace sawdust with, feel free to go to the household chemicals store and buy odorless white table napkins. The baby will appreciate your efforts, because this is good material for arranging a nest. The rodent will tear the napkin into small pieces (you can help him) and make a warm nest.

Toilet paper

Rodents rarely use toilet paper for toileting. Offer this material to your baby and he will use it in decorating his bedroom. But can hamsters be given paper? Definitely yes. The main thing is that the composition does not contain flavorings or other additives.

cotton wool

Sometimes cotton wool is used as bedding, but this is not the best option. This bedding is dangerous for the Djungarian hamster - it gets tangled between the tiny fingers. Cotton wool is a subject of debate; many people use it as bedding, arguing that nothing bad happened to their pets and, moreover, Syrians love to wrap themselves in it. In fact, there are many known cases of Djungarians breaking their legs after getting tangled in cotton wool.

Let's sum it up

Now you know which litter is best for hamsters and you can choose the right option for your pet with good value for money. We hope you have decided what sawdust is needed for hamsters specifically in your case. Theoretically, you can do without the filler, but with it the hamster is warmer, more comfortable, and it is more convenient for the owner to clean the cage. You need to choose pine sawdust with caution; it is acceptable to use pine sawdust, but cedar sawdust is not recommended. You cannot use sawdust from the factory, even from fruit trees, since before production the wood is treated with special compounds against pests.

Beginner hamster breeders are interested in the question of how much filler to lay. It is recommended in one layer, so that the bedding covers the bottom.

A hamster's cage must have filler: it is poured into a tray for the purpose of insulation, the ability to rummage (the hamster feels the need to dig), and also to absorb feces.

Attention! Never put:

• newspaper (printing materials are poisonous)
• printer and drawing paper (rough sharp edges will cut the paws, it is impossible to make a soft nest)

• cotton wool and rags (the fibers entangle the paws and they swell/die)
  

• mineral litter for cats (this is a toxic material).

In addition to the filler, the cage must contain nesting material - white paper napkins without a pattern or fragrance, torn into strips.

What type of litter is best for hamsters?

We tried many types of filler and came to the conclusion: corn is the best. Now let's explain why.

Sawdust: economical, but dusty

If you buy sawdust for your hamster, be prepared for the fact that his coat will be constantly littered and covered with dust. But the worst thing is that this dust clogs the eyes (conjunctivitis), nasal passages (rhinitis), and gradually enters the lungs, which leads to pulmonary edema and death from suffocation.

Granules: economical but rough

Wood pellets absorb urine odor well in the toilet area. They generate much less dust. But they also have significant drawbacks. So, if the granules are made of coniferous wood (pine, spruce), the strong smell of resin can cause an allergic reaction in the hamster (stuffy nose, discharge, sneezing). If they are too loose, they quickly turn into low-quality sawdust. In addition, there is no way for a hamster to rummage through the granules.

Pulp: clean but dangerous

We also tried the paper filler “Care Fresh”. And when, after a couple of days, a layer of tiny cellulose dust began to settle on the floor around the cages, and we had to treat the hamsters who were sneezing and sniffling, we realized: we won’t use it anymore.

Corn filler: choosing the best!

The ideal filler is made from crushed corn cobs, containing a small percentage of grain residues. There is minimal dust in it, but the loose, light, soft bedding for paws absorbs odors and, most importantly, you can dig in it and find food - corn kernels! It is best to buy “Fiori” (without flavorings!) or Russian “Golden Cat” of fine fraction. We pour a layer 3-5 cm thick onto the bottom of the cage. One large pack per large cage is enough for 2-3 shifts, that is, for 2-3 months.

Give pleasure to your pet! You will be pleased to listen to the relaxing rustling of the “corn” and understand that you gave the hamster the best.

Before you get a hamster, you need to prepare and arrange your home. After purchasing a cage, feeder and other accessories, hamster litter will be no less important. The choice can affect your pet's health and lifespan. You need to take your purchase seriously.

Which filler to choose - a brief overview

In pet stores you can see different options for fillers, with different prices and other criteria. Hamster litter must meet the following criteria:

• must be safe;
• absorb odors and moisture;
• have a light structure so that the hamster can dig around without hindrance.

Newspaper and paper

Paper is used as bedding, but not newspaper. This is because the hamster tries to chew everything, and the paint is very harmful. The sharp edges of the newspaper will injure the rodent during the process of creating a home. Bedding made of newspapers or hard paper quickly becomes wet and takes a long time to dry. The hamster will have to live in dampness, which is why the fur will quickly become dirty and change color. Those with long hair will develop pellets in the form of an icicle. And white hamsters will turn yellow due to constant contact with urine. The downside is that newspaper does not absorb stench well, and you will need to change it every day so that an unpleasant odor does not appear.

You can use napkins as filler, but without designs, smells, etc. This is a good substitute for wood fillers if the rodent is allergic to it. The hamster will also like napkins and paper, as they are excellent building materials. The pet tears up the pieces of paper and makes a kind of nest for itself.

You can also give hamsters toilet paper. They use it as a bed. So you can use soft paper without paint or odors.

Cotton wool and rags

Some owners use cotton wool for bedding, which is far from a good choice. Particularly dangerous for Djungarian hamsters. The cotton wool will get tangled between your fingers. Everyone decides for themselves whether to make bedding from cotton wool, since many continue to use it, justifying it with the fact that everything is fine with the animals. The owners of the Syrians note that they love to wrap themselves in it. Although many cases have been established when dzhungariks broke their paws due to cotton wool getting tangled in them. It’s also better to forget about rags. Large and coarse threads are used in their production. Rags and cotton wool do not absorb odors and moisture.

Notable filler due to its affordable price. Soft, highly absorbent. When choosing, it is better to buy shavings from hard types of trees. You cannot take shavings that contain cedar oil. This will lead to respiratory disease. You can use pine sawdust, but with extreme caution. Pine sawdust is also acceptable if the hamster reacts normally.

Pressed and regular sawdust

Sawdust is the most versatile filler for hamsters. It will not be easy to choose sawdust for the Djungarian hamster, since he is picky in this matter due to his small size. But sawdust is most often purchased based on a number of advantages:

• Safe;
• There are small and large species;
• Suitable for dzhungariks, and they like to rummage a lot;
• Affordable price.

Despite this, there are also disadvantages:

• Very light, which will cause scattering outside the cage.
• They do not absorb unpleasant odors well enough.
• May cause allergies in the hamster.
• Cheek pouch disease. A rodent can get hurt or get an infection due to its habit of tasting everything.
• Tangles. Smaller sawdust gets stuck in the wool. It will need to be cut or combed.

Wood filler is a good bedding. Known as "pressed sawdust". Suitable for a hamster's toilet made of wood or grass. But it is not easy to clean, since it is difficult to distinguish between dirty and clean granules. However, they perfectly absorb unpleasant odors and are environmentally friendly. But even here you need to monitor your pet so that he does not eat the litter, as it can cause harm to the pouches in the cheeks. If this happens, then you need to change the litter to a different type.

Pros: absorbs odor well, but more expensive.

• Contains wood dust, which may adversely affect animals.
• Due to the large size of the granules, the dzhungarika may be uncomfortable.
• Allergic reaction. Pressed sawdust consists of a huge amount of wood dust. If it gets on the mucous membrane, it causes an allergy.

Fine sand

Sand is used for bathing, poured into baths. Also suitable for cage bedding. It is advisable to buy it at a pet store. Fill the bottom completely. The advantage is that as it absorbs moisture, it dries and forms a clump that is easy to pick up and throw away. It also neutralizes the smell of urine, which is pleasant for the hamster and its owner. You need to change the sand regularly, at least once a week. An excellent choice for dzhungarik.

Hay

Hay is quite a suitable filler. You can buy it or make it yourself. This is, of course, not an environmentally friendly material, but it is as close as possible to natural living conditions. The hamster will be able to create a soft place for himself and chew at will.

Cellulose filler

This filler can replace sawdust if the hamster is allergic to it. The structure is something between hay and sawdust of both types. But cellulose filler does not absorb odors and moisture well, although it is safe for small hamsters. The granules are small in size, which is essential for dzungarians.

Although this filler for hamsters is the last in order, it is the first in properties. Corn litter, being better than shavings, is suitable for any hamster. The only negative is the high price. It doesn’t need to be changed often because it copes well with odors. You need to lay a thin layer of bedding in the cage and the unpleasant odors will disappear. Suitable for allergy sufferers who cannot tolerate wood dust. Corn filler does not contain it.

Perfect for those who cannot figure out which bedding will be most comfortable for their pet. Hamsters enjoy rummaging and digging in corn litter. Suitable for almost any breed.

Although you can do without bedding, with it the rodent will be warm and comfortable, and it will be easier for the owner to clean up after the pet. You need to carefully choose the litter and monitor the hamster to see how much he likes it.